Analysis Papers

Pra is e f o r

Good M orn in g, B ea utifu l B usin ess

“Ju dy W ic ks’s b rillia n ce r e d efin es w hat a b usin ess c an b e. T he W hit e D og C afé m odels w hat c o m merc e w ill b eco m e if w e a re t o c re ate a liv ab le f u tu re . T his is

busin ess a s s p ir it u al p ra ctic e, b usin ess a s k in dness, b usin ess a s c o m munit y , b usin ess a s ju stic e, jo y, t ra n sfo rm atio n, le ad ers h ip , a n d g en ero sit y . T here is n oth in g

here y ou w ill le arn in b usin ess s ch ool, b ecau se t h e W hit e D og C afé is n ot in t h e b usin ess o f s ellin g lif e ; it ’s in t h e b usin ess o f c re atin g lif e . H ow b le ssed is

Phila d elp hia a n d t h e w orld f o r h er p re sen ce a n d p re scie n ce.”

—P

AUL

H AW KEN

, a u th or o f

Ble sse d U nre st

“Ju dy W ic ks is o ne o f t h e m ost a m azin g w om en I h av e e v er m et. S he r a n t h e le g en dary W hit e D og C afé w it h p assio n, h eart, c o m mon s en se, a n d f in an cia l s u ccess.

A nd s h e c o ntin ues t o b la ze n ew p ath s o n t h e r o ad t o a t ru ly s u sta in ab le p eo ple -c en te re d e co nom y. T his is a m ust-re ad b ook.”

—B

EN

C OHEN

, c o fo under o f B en & J e rry ’s

“W ow . W hat a w om an , w hat a b ook. I n it , y ou e n te r t h e lif e o f s o m eo ne w ho, e v en a s a c h ild , le arn ed t h at s h e c o uld c re ate — th at s h e c o uld m ake t h in gs a n d m ake

th in gs h ap pen . W e n eed W ic ks’s c o nfid en ce a n d c o ura g e n ow m ore t h an e v er. S o r e ad it a n d y ou’ll g et s o m e. H er s p unk is c o nta g io us.”

—F

RANCES

M OORE

L APPÉ

, a u th or o f

Eco M in d: C hangin g t h e W ay W e T hin k, t o C re a te t h e W orld W e W ant

“Ju dy W ic ks s et o ut t o c re ate a b usin ess t h at e xp re ssed h er v alu es, s erv ed h er c o m munit y , a n d f e d h er f a m ily . S he e n ded u p le ad in g a n atio nal m ovem en t t o b uild

lo cal e co nom ie s t h at a re in clu siv e a n d r e silie n t, p ro vid e g re en jo b o pportu nit ie s, a n d c o nduct b usin ess s u sta in ab ly a n d r e sp onsib ly .

Good M orn in g, B ea utifu l

Busin ess

is a n in sp ir a tio n— a liv in g, b re ath in g t a le o f t h e n ew A meric an d re am in a ctio n.”

—V

AN

J ONES

, a u th or o f

Reb uild t h e D re a m

“G uid ed b y h er o w n p ow erfu l a ctiv is t s en sib ilit y , J u dy W ic ks b eau tif u lly c o nvey s t h e im porta n t in flu en ces t h at a r e sta u ra n t, o r a n y b usin ess, c an h av e w it h in a

co m munit y — polit ic ally , e co nom ic ally , a n d s o cia lly .”

—A

LIC E

W ATER S

, o w ner o f C hez P an is se a n d a u th or o f

The A rt o f S im ple F ood

“B ew are . T his is a b usin ess b ook lik e n o o th er. I t w ill c h an ge h ow y ou s ee t h e w orld , A meric a, b usin ess, a n d t h e e co nom y a n d s h ould b e r e q uir e d r e ad in g in e v ery

sch ool o f b usin ess a n d d ep artm en t o f e co nom ic s. J u dy W ic ks t e ach es u s h ow t o s u cceed a t b usin ess w hile m an ag in g f ro m t h e h eart, h av in g a n o utra g eo usly g ood

tim e, a n d m easu rin g s u ccess a s c o ntrib utio n t o h ealt h y c o m munit ie s a n d a w orld t h at w ork s f o r a ll. T hose w ho t a ke W ic ks a n d t h e W hit e D og a s t h eir m odel c h an ge

th e w orld o ne b eau tif u l b usin ess a t a t im e.”

—D

AVID

K ORTEN

, c o fo under o f

YE S! M agazin e

an d a u th or o f

Agen da fo r a N ew E co nom y: F ro m P hanto m W ea lth t o R ea l W ea lth

an d

The G re a t T urn in g: F ro m

Em pir e t o E arth C om munity

“Ju dy W ic ks is o ne o f o ur g re at le ad ers a n d v is io narie s, a n d t h is b ook m akes c le ar w hy. S he t h in ks a b out t ra d it io nal s u bje cts — ‘b usin ess,’ ‘ e co nom ic s’— in f re sh ,

pra ctic al, r e al, a n d p ow erfu l w ay s. R ead it a n d t h en liv e it y ours elf ! ”

—B

IL L

M C K IB BEN

, a u th or o f

Deep E co nom y: T he W ea lth o f C om munitie s a nd t h e D ura ble F utu re

“If t h ere e v er is a N obel P riz e in p la n et-s av in g, J u dy W ic ks d eserv es t o b e t h e f ir s t r e cip ie n t. B esid es c re atin g o ne o f P hila d elp hia ’s m ost p opula r r e sta u ra n ts ( th e

W hit e D og C afé ), h er le g acy in clu des P en nsy lv an ia ’s lo cal f o od m ovem en t, A meric a’s f a ste st g ro w in g n etw ork o f in dep en den t b usin esses, a n d e n tre p re n eu rs

w orld w id e— esp ecia lly w om en — whom s h e h as in sp ir e d t o m ake b usin ess t h e le ad in g e d ge o f s o cia l c h an ge. I n t h is r iv etin g, f u nny, a n d m ovin g a u to bio gra p hy, J u dy

als o r e v eals h ers elf a s a s u perb s to ry te lle r a n d a s h arp p olic y c rit ic . H er lif e s to ry , w hic h u nfo ld s f ro m t h e A rc tic t o C hia p as, s h ow s h ow o ne p assio nate p ers o n r e ally

can b en d t h e a rc o f h is to ry t o w ard ju stic e.”

—M

IC HAEL

S HUM AN

, a u th or o f

Loca l D olla rs, L oca l S en se : H ow t o S hift Y our M oney fr o m W all S tr e et t o M ain S tr e et a nd A ch ie ve R ea l P ro sp erity

“Ju dy W ic ks’s jo urn ey is p ote n t m ed ic in e f o r a c u lt u re t h at f a ls ely s ep ara te s p ers o nal lif e a n d w ork , s elf a n d c o m munit y , b usin ess a n d e n vir o nm en t, a n d

en tre p re n eu rs h ip a n d a ctiv is m . A nyone w ho w an ts t o e n gag e t h eir f u ll e n tre p re n eu ria l v is io n, a n d f in d t h eir o w n u niq ue p ath t h at m ay c o m bin e s eem in gly d is p ara te

goals , c an t a ke h eart: t h is r e m ark ab le s to ry is a v is io nary b eaco n a n d jo yfu l r e ad .”

—N

IN A

S IM ONS

, c o fo under o f B io neers

“Ju dy W ic ks is s o m eth in g r a re , in valu ab le , a n d e ssen tia l in o ur t im e: a v is io nary a rtis an o f c u lt u ra l r e n ais san ce. R ead t h is b ook. L earn w hat s h e’s d one a n d, e v en

m ore im porta n t, h ow s h e b ecam e w ho s h e is . L et h er s to ry in sp ir e y ou m ore f u lly in to y our o w n c u lt u ra l a rtis try .”

—B

IL L

P LO TKIN

, a u th or o f

Soulc ra ft Good M orn in g ,

Bea utifu l B usin ess

The U nex p ecte d J o urn ey o f a n A ctiv is t

Entr e p re n eu r a n d L ocal E co no m y P io neer

J U DY W IC K S

Chels e a G re en P ublis h in g

Whit e R iv er J u nctio n, V erm ont C opyrig ht © 2 013 b y J u d y W ic k s.

A ll r ig hts r e se rv ed .

U nle ss o th erw is e n o te d , a ll p ho to gra p hs c o pyrig ht © 2 013 b y J u d y W ic k s.

N o p art o f th is b ook m ay b e tr a nsm it te d o r r e p ro duced in a ny fo rm b y a ny m eans w it h o ut p erm is sio n in w rit in g fr o m th e p ub lis h er.

E dit o r: J o ni P ra d ed

P ro je ct M anager: P atr ic ia S to ne

C opy E dit o r: E ric R aetz

P ro ofr e ad er: E ile en C la w so n

In d exer: S hana M ilk ie

D esig ner: M elis sa J a co bso n

P rin te d in th e U nit e d S ta te s o f A meric a.

F ir s t p rin tin g F eb ru ary , 2 013.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 3 1 4 1 5 1 6 1 7

O ur C om mit m ent t o G re en P ublis h in g

C hels e a G re en s e es p ub lis h in g a s a to ol fo r c ult u ra l c hange a nd e co lo gic al s te w ard sh ip . W e s tr iv e to a lig n o ur b ook m anufa ctu rin g p ra ctic es w it h

our e d it o ria l m is sio n a nd to r e d uce th e im pact o f o ur b usin ess e nte rp ris e in th e e nvir o nm ent. W e p rin t o ur b ooks a nd c ata lo gs o n c hlo rin e-fr e e

re cycle d p ap er, u sin g v egeta b le -b ase d in k s w henever p ossib le . T his b ook m ay c o st s lig htly m ore b ecause it w as p rin te d o n p ap er th at c o nta in s

re cycle d fib er, a nd w e h o pe y o u’ll a gre e th at it ’ s w orth it . C hels e a G re en is a m em ber o f th e G re en P re ss I n it ia tiv e (

www.g re enp re ssin it ia tiv e.o rg

), a n o np ro fit c o alit io n o f p ub lis h ers , m anufa ctu re rs , a nd a uth o rs w ork in g to p ro te ct th e w orld ’s e nd angere d fo re sts a nd c o nse rv e n atu ra l

re so urc es.

Good M orn in g, B ea utif u l B usin ess

was p rin te d o n F SC

®

-c ertif ie d p ap er s u p plie d b y M ap le P re ss th at c o nta in s a t le ast 3 0%

postc o nsu m er r e cycle d fib er.

L ib ra ry o f C ongre ss C ata lo gin g-in -P ublic a tio n D ata

W ic k s, J u d y.

G ood m orn in g, b eautif u l b usin ess : th e u nexp ecte d jo urn ey o f a n a ctiv is t e ntr e p re neur a nd lo cal e co no m y p io neer / J u d y W ic k s.

p . c m .

I n clu d es in d ex.

I S B N 9 78-1 -9 33392-2 4-0 ( p bk.) — IS B N 9 78-1 -6 0358-4 99-9 ( e b ook)— I S B N 9 78-1 -6 0358-5 05-7 ( h ard co ver)

1. W ic k s, J u d y. 2 . R esta ura te urs — Pennsy lv ania — Phila d ep hia . 3 . W hit e D og C afe ( P hila d elp hia , P a.) 4 . C om munit y d evelo pm ent— Pennsy lv ania

— Phila d ep hia . I . T it le .

T X 910.5 .W 47A 3 2 013

6 47.9 5092— dc2 3

[ B ]

2 012043523

C hels e a G re en P ub lis h in g

85 N orth M ain S tr e et, S uit e 1 20

W hit e R iv er J u nctio n, V T 0 5001 (8 02) 2 95-6 300

w ww.c hels e agre en.c o m For m y c h ild re n , G ra ce a nd L aw re n ce

And i n m em ory o f th eir fa th er, N eil S ch lo sse r Conte n ts

P re fa ce

1 . M y F ir s t P la ce: G ro w in g u p in I n go m ar

2 . A C ult u re o f S harin g: L if e w it h th e E sk im os

3 . M y F ir s t B usin ess: T he S to ry o f F re e P eo ple ’s S to re

4 . I t’ s N ot th e C oin th at C ounts : L earn in g to D o B usin ess M y W ay

5 . T he B lo om in g o f th e W hit e D og C afé

6 . A T ab le f o r S ix B illio n: F in din g a n I n te rn atio nal P ers p ectiv e

7 . L iv in g a b ove th e S hop: L esso ns o f P la ce a n d C om munit y

8 . B asta ! W e H av e H ad E nough : C offe e a n d th e W orld R ev olu tio n

9 . W hat I L earn ed f ro m A nim als : B uild in g a C arin g E co nom y

1 0. P urs u in g S m all S cale o n a L arg e S cale : T he F oundin g o f B ALLE

1 1. S ettin g th e T ab le f o r S ix B illio n

1 2. G ood N ig h t, B eau tif u l B usin ess

A ck now le d gm en ts

A bout th e A uth or When th e p ow er o f lo ve o verc o m es th e lo ve o f p ow er, th en w e’ll h ave p ea ce.

—Jim i H en drix

Pre fa ce

I T W AS

1983 w hen I fir s t o pened th e d oors to th e W hit e D og C afé o n P hila d elp hia ’s S anso m S tr e et, th en a c o lle ctio n o f s o m ew hat r u n-d ow n r o w

ho use s th at h ad ju st b een s a ved fr o m d em olit io n b y it s r e sid ents , in clu d in g m e. F ro m th e fir s t tim e I s a w th e S tr e et, s o m e te n y ears e arlie r, it h ad

cap tu re d m y im agin atio n. I ts liv ely s id ew alk s a nd g ra cefu l if n egle cte d b uild in gs in vit e d m e. I ts c hara cte rs fa sc in ate d m e. I t w as a p la ce th at I h ad

fo und m yse lf ly in g d ow n in fr o nt o f a b ulld oze r to s a ve. Y et e ven a s I la y s p re ad -e agle o n th e p avem ent a nd w ond ere d ju st h o w c lo se th e h uge

earth m ovin g m achin e w ould c o m e, I h ad n’t re m ote ly s u sp ecte d th at S anso m S tr e et w ould b eco m e th e e p ic ente r o f m y lif e . O r th at th e a ct o f

sa vin g o ur c o m munit y fr o m d estr u ctio n to m ak e w ay fo r a m all o f c hain s to re s w ould b eco m e a lif e lo ng p assio n.

I w ould h ave b een a s s u rp ris e d a s a nyo ne to le arn th at I w ould s o m ed ay s ta rt a re sta ura nt th ere a nd ra is e m y fa m ily in a h o m e a b ove it . A nd I

w ould h ave b een e ven m ore s u rp ris e d to le arn th at th e r e sta ura nt w ould g ain in te rn atio nal a ccla im a s a s o cia lly r e sp onsib le b usin ess s e rv in g fa rm -

fr e sh lo cal fo od, ta k e m e to p olit ic al h o t s p ots a ro und th e w orld , a nd p la y a p ow erfu l r o le in b uild in g w hat h as c o m e to b e k no w n a s th e lo cal liv in g

eco no m y m ovem ent.

E ven b y th e tim e I w as a d ju stin g th e b lu e-a nd -w hit e c heck ere d c urta in s a nd w elc o m in g m y fir s t c usto m er, I fe lt lik e a m ore -o r- le ss a ccid enta l

re sta ura te ur. A s a g ir l, I h ad v o w ed n ever to c o ok, a nd a s a y o ung c o lle ge g ra d I h ad e sc hew ed th e c o ncep t o f p ro fit . B ut I w as a b so rb ed b y th e

challe nge o f c re atin g a n o uts ta nd in g r e sta ura nt o n th e b lo ck I h ad h elp ed to s a ve a nd in tr ig ued a t th e p ro sp ect th at it c o uld b e u se d a s a m eetin g

pla ce fo r th e c o m munit y a nd a v ehic le fo r g o od w ork s.

P erh ap s th at’s w hy, s e vera l y ears a fte r I o pened m y r e sta ura nt, I h ung a s ig n in m y b ed ro om c lo se t in m y h o m e a b ove th e W hit e D og C afé — rig ht

w here I w ould s e e it e ach m orn in g. G

OOD M ORN IN G, B EA UTIF U L B U SIN ESS

, it r e ad , r e m in d in g m e d aily o f ju st h o w b eautif u l b usin ess c an b e w hen

w e p ut o ur c re ativ it y , c are , a nd e nerg y in to p ro ducin g a p ro duct o r s e rv ic e th at o ur c o m munit y n eed s. I w as ju st b egin nin g m y jo urn ey. I d id n’t

kno w th en w hat I d o n o w : th at w hen y o u c o nnect h ead a nd h eart in b usin ess, y o u c an tr a nsfo rm n o t ju st b usin ess a s u su al, b ut th e e co no m y in

genera l. Y ou c an fin d a w ay to m ak e e co no m ic e xchange o ne o f th e m ost s a tis fy in g, m eanin gfu l, a nd lo vin g o f h um an in te ra ctio ns.

T he s ig n w ould s ta y th ere fo r th e n ext fif te en y ears a nd w ould o fte n m ak e m e th in k o f m y o w n b usin ess, a nd h o w th e fa rm ers w ere a lr e ad y o ut in

th e fie ld s h arv estin g fr e sh o rg anic fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s to b rin g in to th e re sta ura nt th at d ay. I w ould th in k o f Ju d y D orn str e ic h p ic k in g ro se

gera niu m s a t B ra nch C re ek F arm a nd h o w s h e o nce to ld m e th at w hen s h e p ic k ed it , s h e w ould im agin e o ur p astr y c hef J a m es B arre tt m ak in g r o se

gera niu m p ound c ak e fo r o ur d esse rt m enu. I w ould th in k o f th e fa rm a nim als o ut in th e p astu re s— pig s, c o w s, g o ats , c hic k ens— enjo yin g e ach

oth er’s c o m pany in th e w arm m orn in g s u n a nd fr e sh a ir . A nd I w ould th in k o f D ougie N ew bold , th e g o at h erd er, w ho c la im ed th at w hen s h e

kis se d h er g o ats ’ e ars it m ad e th eir c heese b ette r. A nd I ’m s u re th at’ s tr u e.

I w ould th in k o f o ur b ak ers c o m in g in e arly in th e m orn in g to p ut b re ad a nd p astr ie s in to th e o ven fo r o ur c usto m ers to e njo y th at d ay, a nd o f o ur

pro perty m anager, L ong P ham , w ho fo r o ver tw enty y ears a rriv ed b efo re d ayb re ak to m ak e re p air s a nd o vers e e c le anin g b efo re o ur g uests

arriv ed . A nd I w ould r e m em ber th e Z ap atis ta s d ow n in C hia p as, M exic o , g ro w in g th e o rg anic c o ffe e b eans fo r m y m orn in g c up .

B usin ess, I le arn ed , is a b out r e la tio nsh ip s. M oney is s im ply a to ol. W hat m atte rs m ost a re th e r e la tio nsh ip s w it h e very o ne w e b uy fr o m , s e ll to , a nd

w ork w it h — and o ur r e la tio nsh ip w it h E arth it s e lf . M y b usin ess w as th e w ay I e xp re sse d m y lo ve o f lif e , a nd th at’ s w hat m ad e it a th in g o f b eauty .

T he w orld , th o ugh, is n ’t a lw ays a b eautif u l p la ce. N ot y et, a nyw ay. T here is a n ew s p ho to o f a lit tle g ir l th at n o t o nly p ro ves th at p oin t, b ut a ls o s till

haunts m e. T ho ugh I s a w it y ears a go , I v iv id ly re call h o w v uln era b le s h e lo oked in a ta tte re d p in k d re ss, s ta nd in g o n a g arb age d um p in H ait i,

lo okin g fo r fo od. T he im age h o vere d a b ove a fr o nt- p age

New Y o rk T im es

artic le te llin g o f a g lo bal fo od c ris is , a nd s p ecula tin g a b out th e c ause s

fo r th e r is e in fo od p ric es th at h ad le ft th is lit tle g ir l a nd m illio ns lik e h er h ungry . W as it th e d ro ught in A ustr a lia ? O r th e d iv ers io n o f c o rn to e th ano l

in th e U nit e d S ta te s? O r th e in cre ase in m eat e atin g in C hin a? I re ad th e w ho le a rtic le a nd fo und n o m entio n w hats o ever a b out th e fa ilu re o f th e

in d ustr ia l g lo bal fo od s y ste m it s e lf .

T he y ear w as 2 007, a nd b y th en it h ad b eco m e c le ar to m e th at to re sc ue th at v uln era b le lit tle g ir l fr o m h unger o r, w ors e y et, a b use a nd

exp lo it a tio n, w e w ould n eed to d o fa r m ore th an e xam in e a fe w e p is o dic c ause s h ere a nd th ere . W e w ould n eed to c hange o ur fa ile d e co no m ic

sy ste m fr o m o ne d om in ate d b y tr a nsn atio nal c o rp ora tio ns to o ne b ase d o n lo cal s e lf - re lia nce— one in w hic h th e in evit a b le flu ctu atio n o f p ric es in

th e g lo bal m ark etp la ce w ould h ave lit tle e ffe ct.

Id eas lik e th at w ere s till fa r fr o m m ak in g it to th e fr o nt p ages o f m ajo r d ailie s. B ut a g ro w in g n etw ork o f p eo ple a ro und th e w orld w ere s h o w in g

ho w b uild in g s tr o ng lo cal e co no m ie s— ra th er th an re ly in g o n tr a nsn atio nal o nes— co uld e m pow er c o m munit ie s to fe ed , c lo th e, a nd c are fo r th eir

child re n a nd m eet th e b asic n eed s o f a ll th eir p eo ple . A nd th e e ffo rt w asn ’t ju st to e nd h unger o r r e in in p overty o r c halle nge c o rp ora te p ow er. N o,

ult im ate ly , b uild in g lo cal fo od, w ate r, a nd e nerg y s e curit y p ro vid es th e fo und atio n fo r la stin g w orld p eace.

T his b ook is th e s to ry o f h o w I a rriv ed a t th at c o nclu sio n— fr o m g ro w in g u p in a s m all to w n, to a s h o rt b ut u nfo rg etta b le e xp erie nce liv in g w it h

in d ig eno us p eo ple , a nd m ost o f a ll to c re atin g, o ver th e c o urs e o f tw enty -fiv e y ears , th e W hit e D og C afé . I t’s a ls o th e s to ry o f w here th at c afé le d m e a s I w ork ed w it h o th ers to b uild a lo cal fo od s y ste m a nd th en a w ho le n ew lo cal e co no m y fo r o ur c o m munit y . I t’s a b out h o w I fin ally jo in ed

w it h m y c o lle agues a cro ss N orth A meric a in a n e ffo rt to h elp re lo caliz e e co no m ie s a nd e nliv en c o m munit ie s a cro ss th e n atio n a nd a ro und th e

w orld .

B ut it is a ls o th e s to ry o f m y o w n a w ak enin g fr o m a g ir l w ho d enie d a ll th in gs fe m in in e, a nd r e fu se d to w ear p in k , to a b usin essw om an w ho fo und

str e ngth in h er fe m in in e e nerg y— a q ualit y th at’s a vaila b le to b oth m en a nd w om en. I u se d th at e nerg y to b uild c arin g b usin ess r e la tio nsh ip s, m ak e

heart- b ase d d ecis io ns, c o opera te w it h m y c o m petit o rs , a nd u lt im ate ly w ork c o lla b ora tiv ely to b uild a c o m passio nate a nd c arin g e co no m y.

I s ta rte d m y w ork to b uild th at n ew e co no m y in th e y ear 2 000 w it h th e s im ple p re m is e th at a n e nvir o nm enta lly , s o cia lly , a nd fin ancia lly s u sta in ab le

glo bal e co no m y m ust b e c o m pris e d o f s u sta in ab le lo cal e co no m ie s. R ath er th an a g lo bal e co no m y d om in ate d b y m am moth , a nd o fte n u nnecessa ry ,

tr a nsn atio nal c o rp ora tio ns, I e nvis io ned a g lo bal e co no m y a s a n in tr ic ate n etw ork o f sm all- to -sm all, w in -w in b usin ess re la tio nsh ip s c o nnectin g

co m munit ie s th at w ere s e lf - re lia nt fo r th eir b asic n eed s.

A y ear la te r, I c o fo und ed th e B usin ess A llia nce fo r L ocal L iv in g E co no m ie s, k no w n a s B A LLE. I f y o u a re w ond erin g ju st w hat a “ liv in g” e co no m y

is , it ’s o ne th at s u p ports th re e a re as o f lif e — healt h y n atu ra l lif e , v ib ra nt a nd c ult u ra lly u niq ue c o m munit y lif e , a nd lo ng-te rm a nd ju st e co no m ic lif e .

E xam in e a th riv in g lo cal liv in g e co no m y a nd y o u’ll fin d a m ult it u d e o f lo cally o w ned , h um an-sc ale b usin esse s c o m mit te d to th e h ealt h o f th eir

co m munit y a nd th eir e co sy ste m . T hey p ro duce b asic n eed s lo cally , e xp ort th e s u rp lu s, im port— th ro ugh fa ir - tr a d e p ra ctic es— go ods n o t a vaila b le

lo cally , a nd d evelo p p ro ducts u niq ue to th eir r e gio n fo r e xchange in th e g lo bal m ark etp la ce— be it a fa sh io n d esig n, fin e w in e o r c heese , a rtw ork ,

entr e p re neuria l in no vatio n o r a ny o f th e m any o th er th in gs th at c ele b ra te w hat it is to b e h um an.

T his b ook is m ore th an a m em oir . I t is a s u rv iv al m anual. I t is c erta in ly n o t a b out a u to pia n d re am . R ath er it is a b out s o lv in g d eep p ro ble m s u niq ue

to o ur tim e— and th e n eed is u rg ent. T oday, w e a re c o nfr o nte d w it h c ris e s th e w orld h as n ever fa ced b efo re : a d ep le te d n atu ra l e nvir o nm ent n o

lo nger a b le to s u sta in o ur m ate ria lis tic s o cie ty ; in cre asin gly s e vere a nd e rra tic w eath er b ro ught o n b y g lo bal w arm in g; a d eclin in g o il s u p ply th at w ill

lik ely , in tim e, m ak e g lo bal tr a nsp ort p ro hib it iv ely e xp ensiv e— if b urn in g th e o il d oes n o t d estr o y u s fir s t. T here is g ro w in g w ealt h in eq uit y ; a n

A meric an p olit ic al sy ste m in cre asin gly co ntr o lle d b y co rp ora te in te re sts ; and esc ala tin g glo bal vio le nce, so cia l up heaval, and envir o nm enta l

destr u ctio n o ver c o ntr o l a nd e xtr a ctio n o f th e r e m ain in g o il, fr e sh w ate r, a nd o th er n atu ra l r e so urc es. I t d oesn ’t h ave to b e th is w ay.

I im agin e a fu tu re w here th e lit tle g ir l in th e p in k d re ss is in a d if fe re nt p ho to gra p h. S he’s s m ilin g o ver a n a b und ant m eal o f o rg anic lo cally g ro w n

fo od s e ate d a lo ng w it h th e re st o f th e w orld ’s h ap py p eo ple a t w hat I’v e c o m e to c all th e T ab le fo r S ix B illio n (o r m ayb e s e ven o r e ig ht) . A nd

w here a re th e tr a nsn atio nals w ho c la im w e n eed th eir m ono -c ro ps, fo ssil- fu el- b ase d p estic id es a nd fe rtiliz e rs , g enetic ally m odif ie d s e ed s, c ru el

anim al fa cto rie s, a nd lo ng-d is ta nce tr a nsp ort to fe ed th e w orld ? T hey a re n o t in th e p ho to gra p h. T urn s o ut w e d id n’t n eed th em a fte r a ll.

T his b ook is b oth a lo ve s to ry a nd a b usin ess b ook. I t’s a b out a lo ve o f lif e , n atu re , a nim als , c o m munit y , a nd u niq ue lo cal c ult u re , a lo ve o f g o od

fo od a nd fa m ily fa rm s, a nd a lo ve o f d em ocra cy— all b ein g th re ate ned b y a g lo bal e co no m ic s y ste m d riv en b y p ro fit . I t’s a ls o a b out a d eep lo ve o f

busin ess, a nd h o w w e c an e m bra ce a w ay o f d oin g b usin ess th at is b eautif u l, th at n urtu re s a ll th at w e c heris h , a nd th at fu rth ers th e c re atio n o f a

w ho le n ew e co no m ic s y ste m b ase d o n c arin g r e la tio nsh ip s.

T ho ugh th is n ew e co no m y is g lo bal in v is io n, m y s to ry a nd th e s to ry fo r e ach o f u s b egin s r ig ht a t h o m e in o ur o w n c o m munit y — and w it h o ur o w n

cap acit y to r e co gniz e a nd p ro te ct w hat w e tr u ly c are a b out. I h ave a lw ays lo ved a w in dow , e sp ecia lly a n o pen o ne.

—Wen dell B erry

1

My F ir s t P la ce: G ro w in g u p in I n g om ar

I

BU IL T M Y F IR ST F O RT

when I w as n in e. I c alle d it a fo rt b ecause I m ad e it fr o m u p rig ht lo gs lik e a W este rn fo rt in th e c o w boy m ovie s. E ach

sp rin g I d is m antle d th e la st y ear’s fo rt a nd b uilt a m ore e la b ora te v ers io n, a p ro cess th at w ent o n e very y ear u ntil I w ent o ff to c o lle ge. I c o ntin ued

to call th em m y fo rts even th o ugh I ab and oned lo gs as a b uild in g m ate ria l and b egan usin g d is c ard ed b oard s sa lv aged fr o m aro und th e

neig hb orh o od, o fte n s c ra p s le ft o ver fr o m th e n ew h o use s p oppin g u p in th e o pen fie ld s a t th e o uts k ir ts o f I n go m ar, th e s m all to w n w here I g re w

up in w este rn P ennsy lv ania . E very y ear fo r m y b ir th d ay in M ay, b egin nin g w hen I tu rn ed te n, I a sk ed fo r a b ag o f n ails a nd a r o ll o f ta r p ap er, th en

head ed fo r th e w oods w it h m y n ew s u p plie s, a lo ng w it h a h am mer a nd s a w , to b egin a n ew fo rt.

I h ave a lw ays h ad a s tr o ng s e nse o f p la ce. M uch o f th is b ook, th o ugh n o t a ll o f it , is a b out a p la ce in P hila d elp hia — th e 3 400 b lo ck o f S anso m

S tr e et w here I liv ed , w ork ed , c re ate d a b usin ess, a nd h elp ed b uild a nd m ain ta in a c o m munit y . I c are d fo r th at p la ce fo r a lm ost fo rty y ears . B ut

oth er p la ces c am e fir s t.

I c ho se m y fir s t p la ce in th e w oods b ehin d th e h o use I g re w u p in , w here w e m oved in 1 953 w hen I w as s ix . W alk in g a cro ss o ur s u nny y ard a nd

ste p pin g in to th e s h ad y w oods th at b ord ere d it w as lik e e nte rin g a m agic al w orld — one o f a d ventu re a nd im agin atio n w here a nyth in g w as p ossib le .

W hen m y fa th er, Ja ck W ic k s, c le are d a fie ld fo r o ur fa m ily ’s h o use to b e b uilt , h e sta ck ed th e sm all tr e es h e h ad c ut d ow n, la rg ely sle nd er

sa ssa fr a s a nd s a p lin g o ak s a fe w in ches in d ia m ete r, in to a b ig p ile o n th e e d ge o f th e w oods. O ne d ay, w hile p la yin g o n th e s ta ck o f w ood, I

th o ught w hat a g o od fo rt th e lo gs w ould m ak e.

I fo und a p la ce in th e w oods w here th ere w ere fo ur m ed iu m -siz e d tr e es g ro w in g a b out s ix fe et a p art in a s q uare . T hen I s a w ed fo ur s a p lin gs in to

se ven-fo ot le ngth s a nd la sh ed th em to th e tr e es h o riz o nta lly to fo rm a s q uare o utlin e o f th e fo rt a b out fiv e fe et h ig h.

A s m y p et b eagle , P ep py, lo oked o n, I b egan s a w in g m ore s a p lin gs fo r th e w alls . M y lig ht b ro w n h air p ulle d b ack fr o m m y fr e ck le d fa ce w as

bra id ed in to p ig ta ils h angin g d ow n m y b ack ju st p ast m y s h o uld ers . S aw in g th e s a p lin gs w as s lo w g o in g, e sp ecia lly w it h th e th ic k er p ie ces, s o I

re cru it e d m y fir s t e m plo yee, a n eig hb orh o od b oy a b out e ig ht y ears o ld , to ta k e th e o th er s id e o f a tw o-m an s a w I fo und in D ad ’s to ols h ed . W it h

m uch e ffo rt, w e c ut th e s a p lin gs fo r th e s id es a nd la sh ed th em u p rig ht to th e h o riz o nta l b ars , fir s t d ig gin g a tr e nch in th e g ro und to h o ld th e b ase s in

pla ce. A fte r th at, I fo und d is c ard ed lu m ber in m y n eig hb or’s b ack yard a nd b uilt a r o of, le avin g a h o le fo r a h atc h d oor o n th e to p.

O ne r e aso n I h ad c ho se n th is s p ot fo r m y fo rt w as th at th ere w as a n o ak tr e e n earb y th at h ad c ra ck ed in th e m id dle — perh ap s s tr u ck b y lig htn in g

or s n ap ped b y a w in d sto rm — so th at th e to p, s till p artia lly a tta ched to th e tr u nk , h ad fa lle n o ver to fo rm a g ia nt a rc h. I t w as u nd er th e a rc h th at I

built m y fo rt. W hile I w as ju st fin is h in g th e r o of, s o m e b oys c am e b y w ho liv ed b ehin d o ur w oods a nd te ase d m e, te llin g m e h o w th ey h ad b uilt a

fa r b ette r p la yho use in th eir w oods w it h la rg e w in d ow s o n a ll fo ur s id es m ad e w it h r e al g la ss, w hile m y fo rt h ad n o w in d ow s a t a ll.

W hen I c am e u p to th e w oods th e n ext d ay, I w as c ru sh ed to fin d th at th e la rg e b ro ken tr e e b ra nch th at a rc hed o ver m y fo rt h ad b een p ush ed o ver

onto th e r o of, s m ash in g it in . I k new r ig ht a w ay th at th e b oys h ad d one th is a nd r a ced th ro ugh o ur w oods a nd in to th eir s , m y s n eak ers p ound in g

alo ng th e d ir t p ath w it h P ep py a nd m y p ig ta ils fly in g b ehin d . I fo und th e p la yho use th ey h ad b ra gged a b out, p ic k ed u p a b ig s tic k , a nd s m ash ed a ll

th e w in d ow s to s m it h ere ens. I r a n h o m e a nd n ever h eard fr o m th em a gain .

A s m y fo rts d evelo ped , I w ould a d d m ore to uches, la yin g a b ric k p ath le ad in g u p to th e e ntr a nce a nd p la ntin g flo w ers a lo ng it . O ccasio nally , I

fo und a tr e asu re to a d d a m enit ie s to m y fo rts — lin o le um flo orin g le ft o ver fr o m k it c hen r e m odelin g a nd la rg e m eta l p ulle ys fr o m a ju nk yard th at I

use d to r a is e a s lid in g d oor. I n sid e, I to ok g re at c are in m ak in g c o m fo rta b le p la ces to s it , a nd h angin g p ic tu re s a nd c urta in s— ju st th e s o rt o f th in g,

it tu rn ed o ut, o ne m ig ht d o in a r e sta ura nt. W hen it r a in ed fo r th e fir s t tim e, I w ould s it in m y fin is h ed fo rt a nd fe el v ery p ro ud if th e r o of d id n’t le ak .

B ut o nce th e fo rt w as b uilt a nd w eath er tig ht, I d id n’t a ctu ally s p end m uch tim e p la yin g in sid e. I t w as m uch m ore fu n to r id e b ik es o r h ik e d ow n to

th e c re ek to h unt s a la m and ers a nd c ra yfis h . W hat w as fa sc in atin g to m e w as th e p ro cess o f b uild in g— im agin in g s o m eth in g in m y h ead a nd th en

m ak in g it h ap pen.

O ne d ay, w hile w ork in g o n w hat m ust h ave b een m y th ir d o r fo urth fo rt, w hen I w as tw elv e o r th ir te en y ears o ld , I fe lt a s tr a nge w etn ess “ d ow n th ere .” I w ent to th e h o use a nd in th e b ath ro om w as a sto nis h ed to fin d a b rig ht r e d s ta in o n m y u nd erp ants . A t fir s t I w as in d enia l th at I h ad g o tte n

m y p erio d— th at I w as re ally a g ir l, s o m eth in g I a lw ays tr ie d to fo rg et— and w ent b ack u p to th e w oods to k eep b uild in g. F in ally , I g ave in a nd

w ent b ack d ow n to th e h o use to te ll m y m om . S he p atie ntly fit te d m e w it h a n e la stic “ sa nit a ry b elt ” th at h eld u p a b ig w hit e s a nit a ry p ad o n m eta l

ho oks in th e fr o nt a nd b ack . T he p ad fe lt s o b ulk y a nd a w kw ard b etw een m y le gs, a nd it w as h um ilia tin g to w ear th is c o ntr a p tio n u nd er m y je ans. I

w ent b ack u p to th e w oods h o pin g th at n o o ne w ould c o m e a lo ng a nd s o m eho w k no w . I h am mere d th e b oard s o n m y fo rt a ll th e h ard er.

W hen I w as tw enty a nd a s o pho m ore in c o lle ge, it w as in m y fo rt th at I m ad e lo ve fo r th e fir s t tim e w it h a y o ung m an w ho h ad b een m y b oyfr ie nd

in fif th a nd s ix th g ra d e. M any y ears la te r, w hen I to ld a g ir lf r ie nd a b out lo sin g m y v ir g in it y , s h e c la rif ie d : “ Y ou d id n’t lo se a nyth in g, J u d y. Y ou

in vit e d h im in to y o ur fo rt! ”

A fte r o ur c o lle ge g ra d uatio n, w hen m y c hild ho od s w eeth eart a nd I w ere m arrie d , I c re ate d a p la ce fo r th e c ere m ony w here a fa vo rit e fo rt h ad

once s to od. I e ven h ad th e o rg an fr o m o ur c hurc h h aule d u p to th e w oods, w here th e o rg anis t c o m pla in ed o f h is fe ar o f s p id ers , a nd th e m in is te r

re ad a p assa ge I had cho se n fr o m

Mid su m mer N ig ht’s D re a m .

Dre sse d in a tr a d it io nal w hit e w ed din g g o w n, w it h o ur p are nts a nd fa m ily

gath ere d a ro und u s, I m arrie d m y fir s t lo ve in th e p la ce I lo ved m ost in th e w orld .

B eyo nd th e w oods w as a la rg er p la ce I g re w to k no w w ell— my h o m eto w n o f I n go m ar. G ro w in g u p in a s m all to w n w as a g re at e xp osu re to th e

w ay lo cal b usin esse s w ove th ro ugh c o m munit y lif e . A cro ss th e s tr e et fr o m I n go m ar E le m enta ry S cho ol, M arie ’s c and y s to re w as th e fa vo rit e a fte r-

sc ho ol d estin atio n, w here w e w ould s to ck u p o n tr e ats lik e ro ot b eer b arre ls a nd c herry p op-c ycle s, m y fa vo rit e s. M arie d id n’t ju st s e ll c and y.

P eerin g th ro ugh h er th ic k g la sse s w it h e yes s lig htly c o ck eyed , s h e m ad e s u re e ach o f u s w as p olit e , w ait e d o ur tu rn , a nd th re w o ur w ra p pers in th e

tr a sh c an.

In th e s a m e o ne-sto ry b uild in g w as th e I n go m ar p ost o ffic e, w here B enny, th e d ad o f th e B ensc o te r k id s, w as th e to w n p ost- m aste r. N ext to th e

post o ffic e, a lo ng In go m ar R oad , w as S te ve’s M eat M ark et, w here m y m oth er a nd g ra nd m oth er c la im ed th ey g o t th e b est c uts o f s te ak , a nd

w here th ey a lw ays le t S te ve k no w h o w o ur T hank sg iv in g tu rk ey c o m pare d w it h la st y ear’s .

M any o f m y fr ie nd s’ p are nts o w ned o r w ork ed in lo cal b usin esse s. I m et G re g O tto in fir s t g ra d e, a nd h is fa th er’s b usin ess, O tto M ilk C om pany,

deliv ere d m ilk to o ur h o use in g la ss re tu rn ab le b ottle s. R ay, o ur m ilk m an, c am e rig ht in to o ur k it c hen a nd c heck ed o ur re fr ig era to r to s e e h o w

m uch m ilk a nd c re am w e n eed ed , m ak in g s u re M om g o t th e q uart o f b utte rm ilk h e k new s h e e njo yed . T o m ak e fr ie nd s w it h fa m ily p ets , R ay k ep t

a p ock etfu l o f d og b is c uit s . M y s e co nd d og, P ooie , a ls o a b eagle a nd a b it o verw eig ht, w ould b e s u re to g et h ers , a nd th en fo llo w R ay a ro und th e

neig hb orh o od, b eggin g fo r m ore a t e very s to p. S om etim es s h e w ould g o h untin g fo r tr e ats o n h er o w n, a nd I o nce fo und h er d ra ggin g a w ho le h am

up o ur d riv ew ay— her s to le n lo ot fr o m a n u nsu sp ectin g n eig hb or.

S m all b usin esse s w ere s c atte re d th ro ugh to w n, a nd o ne w ay o r a no th er I h ad a c o nnectio n to a ll o f th em . M y fr ie nd P eggy’s d ad w as th e to w n

docto r, a nd th e d ad o f m y s is te r’s fr ie nd o w ned T ho m as’s S erv ic e S ta tio n, th e to w n’s o nly fillin g s ta tio n in th e e arly y ears , w here m y p are nts h ad a

charg e a cco unt b efo re th e tim e o f c re d it c ard s. T he S te ig erw ald k id s g re w u p o n a fa rm o n th e o uts k ir ts o f In go m ar ra is in g p ig s a nd c hic k ens.

A no th er c lo se fr ie nd , G ail, w ho liv ed in a r u ra l a re a fa rth er a w ay, h ad a s u m mer jo b e very y ear a t h er u ncle ’s r o ad sid e fa rm s ta nd s e llin g fr e sh fr u it

fr o m th eir o rc hard , s ta rtin g th e s e aso n w it h s tr a w berrie s. O f c o urs e , w e h ad n o c ell p ho nes to k eep u p w it h th e la te st n ew s a b out b oyfr ie nd s a nd

go in gs-o n a t th e lo cal s w im min g p ool, s o I w ould g et n ew sy le tte rs fr o m G ail h and w rit te n fr o m th e s ta nd a nd c o vere d w it h s tr a w berry s ta in s.

I h ad m y fir s t c herry c o ke, n o t th e b ottle d v ers io n o f to day, b ut o ne m ix ed a t th e s o da fo unta in , a t R ic hie ’s P harm acy o n H arm ony D riv e n ear th e

in te rs e ctio n w it h In go m ar R oad , o ur b usie st c o rn er— th o ugh n o t b usy e no ugh fo r a tr a ffic lig ht. A no th er c lo se fr ie nd , B arb , g o t a jo b fr o m M r.

R ic hie in h ig h s c ho ol. I th o ught it w as s o c o ol th at s h e g o t to m ak e th e s o das, m ix in g th e c herry a nd c o la s y ru p s a nd a d din g c arb onate d w ate r.

B arb c o uld e ven g et a p eek a t th e a d ult m agazin es M r. R ic hie k ep t b ehin d th e c o unte r, s o th e y o unger k id s c o uld n’t g et in to th em . A fte r h is

re tir e m ent, D ad w alk ed d ow n to R ic hie ’s e very m orn in g a nd s a t a t th e c o unte r fo r a c up o f c o ffe e to ta lk s p orts a nd tr o ut fis h in g w it h o th er

re tir e es, w ho e ach h ad a m ug h angin g w it h th eir o w n n am e o n it .

A cro ss H arm ony D riv e fr o m R ic hie ’s w as th e I n go m ar F ir e H all w here th e d ad s w ho w ork ed in th e to w n’s s m all b usin esse s m ad e u p th e v o lu nte er

fir e d ep artm ent. O n sp ecia l o ccasio ns, th e fir e e ngin e w as m oved o ut a nd th e h all w as u se d fo r sq uare d ances, H allo w een c o stu m e p artie s,

w ed din g r e cep tio ns, a nd I n go m ar’s v ery fir s t r o ck ’ n ’ r o ll d ance. N ext to th e fir e h all w as th e b eer d is tr ib uto r, w here th e fa vo rit e s w ere I ro n C it y

fr o m P it ts b urg h a nd R ollin g R ock fr o m n earb y L atr o be. D ow n H arm ony D riv e o n th e o th er s id e o f In go m ar R oad w as J o e H ein re gle ’s g ro cery

sto re w here I o fte n w ent w it h m y m om to d o th e w eek ly s h o ppin g. M r. H ein re gle k new a ll h is c usto m ers b y n am e a nd th re w a n a nnual C hris tm as

party fo r th e w ho le to w n.

L ik e m ost w om en in m y h o m eto w n, m y m om , B etty W ic k s, w as a h o m em ak er d urin g m y g ro w in g-u p y ears , th o ugh w hen I w ent o ff to c o lle ge s h e

re tu rn ed to te achin g th ir d g ra d e to h elp w it h m y tu it io n. I t w as th ro ugh h er w ork in c o m munit y s e rv ic e th at M om b ecam e m y r o le m odel fo r w hat

cam e la te r in m y c are er. A g re at o utd oors w om an, s h e w as le ad er o f o ur to w n’s G ir l S co ut tr o op a nd th e d ir e cto r o f o ur s u m mer d ay c am p. S he

le d u s o n c am pin g a nd w hit e -w ate r c ano e tr ip s in to th e w ild s, te achin g u s h o w to b uild a fir e a nd p it c h a te nt, h o w to fe nd fo r o urs e lv es a nd h o w to

w ork in a g ro up . I w atc hed a s s h e c o nd ucte d th e m orn in g p ro gra m a t c am p a nd o rg aniz e d w ork a ssig nm ents fo r e ach u nit , a lw ays w it h fa ir n ess

and e nth usia sm .

M om a nd D ad w ere n atu re lo vers a nd e njo yed th e o ut- o f- d oors . T hey to ok o ur fa m ily o n m any c am pin g tr ip s, in clu d in g e xp ed it io ns to a r e m ote

C anad ia n is la nd th ey h ad fir s t d is c o vere d b efo re I w as b orn . U sin g a m ap a nd c o m pass, D ad n avig ate d th e m oto rb oat w it h a c hain o f c ano es

str u ng b ehin d c arry in g o ur g ear a nd fa m ily m em bers , in clu d in g m y y o unger s ib lin gs, D ia ne a nd J o hn, a s w ell a s m y a unt, u ncle , a nd s ix c o usin s.

M om d id th e p la nnin g fo r o ur tr ip s, p ack in g s u p plie s fo r tw o w eek s a nd c o okin g m eals fo r th ir te en p eo ple o ver th e c am pfir e .

W hen it c am e to c o okin g, c am pfir e c o okin g w as th e o nly fo rm I w ould ta k e p art in b ecause it w as n o t s is sy s tu ff. W hile g ro w in g u p , I m uch

pre fe rre d to p la y in th e w oods th an c o ok in th e k it c hen. E ven th o ugh I w ould n o t b e c aught d ead s h o w in g a n in te re st in h o m em ak in g, I le arn ed th e

im porta nce o f g o od fo od fr o m m y m oth er a nd g ra nd m oth ers .

B rin gin g p eo ple to geth er a ro und fo od w as a tr a d it io n fo r th e w ho le fa m ily . A s fa r b ack a s I c an r e m em ber M om a nd D ad e nte rta in ed w it h s u m mer

pic nic s o n th e p atio , c am pfir e s in gs u p in th e w oods, a nd th eir m onth ly F rid ay n ig ht H ungry C lu b , a p otlu ck d in ner tr a d it io n th ey fo rm ed w it h c lo se

fr ie nd s th e y ear I w as b orn , 1 947. V is it in g m y m ate rn al g ra nd m oth er G ra ce S co tt, in W in te r H aven, F lo rid a, I r e m em ber h er m ost in th e k it c hen,

co okin g u p b ig m eals fo r o ur fa m ily , s o m etim es o f fr e sh fis h s h e h ad c aught in th e la k e a nd a lw ays w it h th e fa vo rit e h o m e-b ak ed s tic k y b uns th at

sh e c o nsta ntly n ib ble d . B y c o m paris o n, m y p ate rn al g ra nd m oth er, E le ano r W ic k s, w ho m I c alle d N ana, w as m uch m ore fo rm al th o ugh n o le ss

so cia l. S he s e t th e p erfe ct ta b le a t th e m any e le gant d in ner p artie s s h e h o ste d in h er b ig h o use in P it ts b urg h, w here s h e w ould r in g a s m all c ry sta l

bell to s u m mon th e m aid . I t w as fr o m N ana th at I le arn ed to a p pre cia te th e d eta ils o f fin e s e rv ic e.

M y m oth er to ok in te re st n o t o nly in c re atin g ta sty m eals , b ut a ls o in p ro vid in g th e m axim um n utr it io nal v alu e, u sin g b ooks lik e

Let’s C ook I t R ig ht

by th e p opula r n utr it io nis t A delle D avis . M om a nd D ad p la nte d a g o od-siz e d fa m ily g ard en e very y ear, w hic h th ey te nd ed fa it h fu lly , w hile I a lw ays

m anaged to ta k e o ff o n m y b ik e r a th er th an h elp w it h th e w eed in g— th o ugh I d id e njo y p ic k in g to m ato es, b eans, s q uash , a nd c o rn fr o m th e g ard en,

w hic h M om w ould u se fo r d in ner th at v ery n ig ht th ro ugho ut th e s e aso n.

O n s p ecia l o ccasio ns, M om m ad e h er n am esa k e d is h , B etty ’s s h is h k eb ab s— sk ew ers o f m arin ate d b eef, fr e sh to m ato es, p ep pers , a nd o nio ns th at

D ad g rille d o ver c harc o al. N ana w as a n e xcelle nt p ie b ak er, w it h fla k ey c ru sts h o ld in g a fr e sh fr u it fillin g— str a w berry , c herry , p each, b lu eb erry , o r

ap ple — as e ach c am e in to s e aso n. W hen s h e a rriv ed a t o ur h o use w it h h er p ie b ask et, I c o uld n o t w ait to fin d o ut w hat k in d o f p ie w as in sid e. H er

str a w berry p ie , m ad e e very J u ne, w as a r e cip e M om a nd la te r m y c o usin s a ll k ep t in th eir r e cip e b oxes. I g o t a k ic k o ut o f w hip pin g th e c re am a nd

plo ppin g b ig s n o w -w hit e s p oonfu ls o nto th e b rig ht r e d fr u it o f th e o pen-fa ced p ie .

E ven in w in te r w e e njo yed fr o ze n a nd ja rre d h o m egro w n v egeta b le s. I re m em ber h o w M om a nd N ana s p ent th e h o tte st d ays o f s u m mer in th e

kit c hen ja rrin g a p ple sa uce a nd s te w ed to m ato es a nd m ak in g ja m s a nd je llie s. I w as c urio us to w atc h a s th ey lif te d la rg e s a ck s o f c heese clo th

drip pin g w it h d ark ju ic e fr o m b ig p ots , s tr a in in g p re se rv es a ll m ad e fr o m fr e sh fr u it s b ought a t th e lo cal fa rm ers m ark ets . A s p ecia l tr e at a t th e

m ark et w as ic e c re am m ad e fr o m s e aso nal fr u it s . I lo nged fo r p eaches to r ip en, s o I c o uld h ave m y fa vo rit e — fr e sh p each ic e c re am .

B y th e tim e c o ld w eath er c am e, o ur fr e eze r w as c ho ck -fu ll o f v egeta b le s fr o m th e fa m ily g ard en a nd fr o ze n fr u it p ie s th at w e h ad n’t a lr e ad y

go bble d u p d urin g th e s u m mer. G la ss M aso n ja rs o f c anned fo ods lin ed th e s h elv es in o ur s to ra ge ro om a nd w ould la st u s th ro ugh th e w in te r

se aso n, u ntil N ana m ad e th e fir s t p ie o f th e s p rin g— fr e sh r h ub arb — and M om w ould s e rv e fr e sh lo cal a sp ara gus, w hic h u su ally a rriv ed in tim e fo r

E aste r d in ner.

B ack th en, it c am e n atu ra lly to e njo y fr e sh p ro duce ju st w hen it w as in s e aso n r a th er th an e atin g th e s a m e fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s a ll y ear s h ip ped in

fr o m S outh A meric a. E xcep t fo r c o ld -sto re d a p ple s, fr e sh fr u it w as m ostly c it r u s in th e w in te r w hen it c am e in to s e aso n in F lo rid a. I c an r e m em ber

m y e xcit e m ent a s a c hild w hen w e re tu rn ed h o m e fr o m th e tr a in sta tio n c arry in g a b ig c ra te m y m ate rn al g ra nd fa th er, A rm or S co tt, th e v ic e

pre sid ent o f a c it r u s n urs e ry , h ad s h ip ped fr o m F lo rid a. O n th e flo or in th e k it c hen w e w ould o pen th e c ra te , a nd th e s m ell o f F lo rid a o ra nges fille d

our h o use a s th o ugh th e w arm a ir o f th e S outh h ad b lo w n o ur w ay.

M any o f th e fa th ers in I n go m ar c o m mute d th e fif te en m ile s in to P it ts b urg h to w ork e ach d ay, in clu d in g m y d ad , w ho w as a la w yer, lik e h is fa th er

befo re h im . D ad p ic k ed u p th in gs in th e c it y th at w e c o uld n’t fin d in I n go m ar, a nd I r e m em ber ju m pin g fo r jo y a t a ge e le ven w hen h e a rriv ed h o m e

w it h m y v ery fir s t r e co rd , o ne I h ad a sk ed h im to fin d fo r m e— a s in gle 4 5 c alle d “ I G ot S tu ng b y a S w eet H oney B ee” b y E lv is P re sle y.

Tw ic e a y ear, in th e s p rin g a nd fa ll, M om a nd N ana w ould ta k e m y s is te r D ia ne a nd m e in to P it ts b urg h to s h o p fo r c lo th es a t tw o fa m ily -o w ned

dep artm ent s to re s, H orn e’s a nd K aufm ann’s . T hese s to re s w ere a lm ost a n e xte nsio n o f In go m ar to u s b ecause o f th e p ers o nal re la tio nsh ip s w e had th ere . N ana k new a ll th e s a le sw om en b y n am e, a nd th ey g uid ed u s to th e s ty le o f c lo th es th ey k new w e p re fe rre d . If s o m eth in g d id n’t fit

exactly r ig ht, N ana h ad a lt e ra tio ns m ad e, a nd I s to od u p o n a r is e r a nd tu rn ed s lo w ly a ro und w hile th e s e am str e ss a t th e d ep artm ent s to re p in ned

m y h em to th e r ig ht le ngth .

M om w as a n e xcelle nt s e am str e ss h ers e lf , a nd e ach fa ll m ad e a fe w n ew s c ho ol o utfit s fo r D ia ne a nd m e. W hen I c o uld n’t fin d th e d re ss o f m y

dre am s fo r th e s e nio r p ro m , s h e m ad e m e a g o w n ju st a s I d esc rib ed to h er w it h a b lu e s a tin to p a nd a la yere d w hit e la ce s k ir t.

I w as r a is e d a p atr io tic A meric an b y m y p are nts a nd b y I n go m ar. O n th e F ourth o f J u ly , I w oke u p to th e s o und o f D ad p la yin g J o hn P hilip S ousa

m arc hes, w hic h h e b la ste d o ut th ro ugh th e fr o nt d oor fo r th e w ho le n eig hb orh o od to h ear. L eap in g o ut o f b ed , I d re sse d u p in r e d , w hit e , a nd b lu e

clo th es a nd h urrie d o uts id e. W it h th e A meric an fla g h eld h ig h, I m arc hed a ro und th e y ard to “ T he S ta rs a nd S tr ip es F ore ver” w hile D ia ne a nd J o hn

fo llo w ed a lo ng, b angin g o n p ots a nd p ans.

M y fa th er h ad b een a n aval o ffic er d urin g W orld W ar I I, s e rv in g a s c ap ta in o f a p atr o l b oat in th e P acif ic , w here h e r e sc ued d ow ned p ilo ts . L ik e

m ost k id s g ro w in g u p in th e 1 950s, I th o ught th e U nit e d S ta te s w as th e b est a nd b ra vest c o untr y in th e w ho le w orld . I b elie ved th at e ver s in ce

defe atin g th e N azis a nd J a p anese , o ur g o vern m ent h ad b een d efe nd in g th e w orld fr o m th e c o m munis ts . D urin g a ir r a id d rills in e le m enta ry s c ho ol,

w e stu d ents w ere in str u cte d to h id e u nd er o ur d esk s in c ase o f a n ucle ar a tta ck b y th e S ovie ts , w hic h g ave u s th e c le ar im pre ssio n th at th e

co m munis t n atio n, a nd a nyo ne w ho s id ed w it h th em , w as o ur e nem y. I w as p ro ud to b e a ntic o m mie lik e th e r e st o f I n go m ar a nd w as c o nvin ced

th at m y c o untr y w as a g enero us o ne th at w ent a ro und th e w orld b rin gin g d em ocra cy a nd p ro vid in g a id to h elp o th er p eo ple s.

L ik e m any s m all to w ns, th e I n go m ar o f m y c hild ho od c hanged o ver tim e, s w allo w ed u p b y s u b urb an s p ra w l. W hen I w as in h ig h s c ho ol, s h o ppin g

cente rs b egan to s p rin g u p a lo ng th e h ig hw ay b etw een I n go m ar a nd P it ts b urg h. T he N orth w ay M all o pened u p w it h g re at fa nfa re a s o ne o f th e fir s t

m alls in th e c o untr y , a nd n ext d oor o ur fir s t M cD onald ’s s o on a p peare d . I w as e xcit e d b y th e n ew d evelo pm ents a nd w as d ra w n to fa st- fo od a nd

chain s to re s a t th e m all w here w e te enagers b egan to h ang o ut. A t th e tim e, lik e m ost o th ers in I n go m ar, I s a w a ll th is a s a n im pro vem ent o ver s m all

to w n lif e . A fte r a ll, I c o uld fin d th e la te st fa sh io ns a nd b uy m y o w n r e co rd s w it h o ut r e ly in g o n a tr ip to th e c it y w it h m y p are nts .

A s th e fa rm s, w oods, a nd fie ld s s u rro und in g I n go m ar, w here I h ik ed a nd r o de m y g ir lf r ie nd ’s h o rs e , g ave w ay to h o usin g p la ns, th e s to re s in to w n

gave w ay to m alls . T he fir s t to g o w as th e h ard w are s to re o n I n go m ar R oad w it h a b ig fr o nt p orc h a nd w id e w ooden s te p s, w here th e m en u se d to

gath er o n S atu rd ay a fte rn o ons. B efo re th e m alls a rriv ed , I th o ught o f b usin ess o w ners a s n eig hb ors a nd p are nts , w ho h elp ed k eep a n e ye o n u s

kid s, a nd w ho s p onso re d th e s c o ut tr o ops, th e L it tle L eague, a nd th e a nnual fir e m an’s p ara d e a nd c arn iv al. T ho se d ays la ste d lo ng e no ugh fo r m e

to b eco m e a w are o f th e m any w ays th at lo cal b usin esse s h elp ed c re ate a se nse o f p la ce, lo cal id entit y , a nd a fe elin g o f b elo ngin g fo r a ll th e

to w nsp eo ple . T ho ugh I liv ed in a ty p ic al s m all to w n, I w as a k id fr o m I n go m ar— and th at w as a p la ce lik e n o o th er.

D urin g th e tim e I g re w u p in th e 1 950s a nd 1 960s, a c are er in b usin ess w as n o t e ven c o nsid ere d fo r g ir ls , a t le ast n o t in th e s m all to w ns w here I

atte nd ed h ig h s c ho ol a nd c o lle ge. I c erta in ly n ever g ave a th o ught to b ein g a b usin essp ers o n. Y et fr o m a y o ung a ge, I c o ntin ually c re ate d p rim it iv e

fo rm s o f b usin ess to a ttr a ct a nd e nte rta in th e o th er k id s in th e n eig hb orh o od.

I h ad ju st tu rn ed s ix w hen m y fa m ily m oved in to o ur n ew h o use w it h a b ig fr o nt la w n o n W oodla nd R oad , a q uie t la ne o n th e e d ge o f to w n. O n th e

fir s t d ay in m y n ew c o m munit y , I c o lle cte d a ll th e e xte nsio n c o rd s I c o uld fin d a nd c o nnecte d th em d ow n th e d riv ew ay w here I s e t u p m y lit tle

child -siz e d d in in g ta b le w it h tw o c hair s a nd p lu gged in m y to y r e co rd p la yer. T urn in g th e v o lu m e u p fu ll b la st to p la y “ H ow M uch I s T hat D oggy in

th e W in d ow ?” I s a t d ow n a t th e ta b le to s e e w ho m ig ht c o m e a lo ng. A t la st I s p otte d a n eig hb orh o od b oy a b out m y a ge w alk in g u p th e r o ad a nd

w atc hed e xp ecta ntly a s h e n eare d o ur h o use . I s till re m em ber th e g le e I fe lt w hen J o hnny B ak er s to pped , h esit a te d , a nd fin ally tu rn ed u p o ur

driv ew ay, w alk in g s lo w ly to w ard m e in h is p ig eo n-to ed o vers iz e s n eak ers to ta k e a s e at a t m y ta b le . T ho ugh I h ad n’t y et a ny fo od to s e rv e, h e

w as m y fir s t r e sta ura nt c usto m er.

A no th er e arly “ sta rt- u p ” in vo lv ed m ak in g p ain tin gs o n s c ra p s o f w ood I’d c o lle cte d , a nd s e llin g th em fr o m m y w ago n a lo ng In go m ar R oad . M y

fir s t s to re ! M ak in g m oney w as n o t a lw ays p art o f th e p la n. I s im ply e njo yed u sin g w hate ver r e so urc es I c o uld fin d to c re ate s o m eth in g o f v alu e a nd

have s o m e fu n d oin g it .

E ach s u m mer I c o nverte d o ur g ara ge in to a th eatr e , m ak in g s ta ge c urta in s w it h th e m atc hin g tw in b ed sp re ad s fr o m th e r o om I s h are d w it h D ia ne.

M y y o unger s ib lin gs a nd th e o th er n eig hb orh o od k id s w ere th e a cto rs in th e s k it s I w ro te a nd d ir e cte d , w it h s illy tit le s lik e

The D ay D ir ty D an

B um ped O ff G ra ndm a.

We in vit e d th e m oth ers in th e n eig hb orh o od, a ll s ta y-a t- h o m e m om s, a nd s a t th em in c hair s w e d ra gged fr o m th e h o use out o nto th e d riv ew ay. B etw een th e c hair s , I s e t u p fo ld in g tr a y s ta nd s to h o ld th eir g la sse s o f ic e te a a nd a sh tr a ys ( y es, in th o se d ark d ays, m ost

m om s a nd d ad s s m oked ).

W hen I w as in ju nio r h ig h, I b uilt a fiv e-h o le m in ia tu re g o lf c o urs e in th e w oods n ear m y fo rt, w it h a m aze o f r a m ps, tu nnels , a nd h ills , u sin g e m ptie d

fr o ze n o ra nge ju ic e c ans to lin e th e tu nnels a nd h o le s. I s o e njo yed b ein g in th e w oods, w ork in g w it h th e m ois t s o il h id den u nd er la yers o f fa lle n

le aves o n th e fo re st flo or. I b re ath ed in th e r ic h e arth y s m ell a s I fo rm ed th e s o il in to v alle ys a nd h ills , p ack in g it fla t s o th e b alls w ould r o ll s m ooth ly

on it s d ark s u rfa ce. I w as s o e xcit e d to w it n ess th e fu n th e m in ia tu re g o lf c o urs e p ro vid ed th e n eig hb orh o od k id s— th e s a m e e xcit e m ent I w ould

re lis h y ears la te r in c re atin g e vents fo r th e c usto m ers a nd e m plo yees in m y r e sta ura nt.

T he fr e ed om m y p are nts g ave m e g ro w in g u p a llo w ed m e th e o pportu nit y to d o m y o w n th in g— to c o nco ct a p la n in m y m in d a nd m ak e it h ap pen

w it h o ut th e h elp o f a d ult s . I h ave n o d oub t th at th is fr e ed om to c re ate a t a n e arly a ge h as c arrie d th ro ugh m y w ho le lif e , a nd a s I g re w o ld er

actu aliz in g m y id eas in to r e al lif e le d to la rg er a nd la rg er p ro je cts .

T here w as n o th in g I e njo yed m ore th an c re atin g a c harm in g p la ce w here p eo ple lik ed to g ath er— fr o m th e m in ia tu re g o lf c o urs e , to th e s u m mer

pla ys, to th e fo rts I c o ntin ued to b uild in th e w oods.

T he o ld er I g o t, th e m ore o fte n I ra n in to d is a p poin tm ents b ecause I w as a g ir l w ho h ad in te re sts a nd a b ilit ie s th at p re su m ab ly w ere o nly fit fo r

boys. I lo nged to ta k e w ood s h o p in s c ho ol to le arn h o w to u se d if fe re nt b uild in g to ols to im pro ve m y fo rts a nd d esig n n ew p ro je cts , b ut to m y

dis m ay g ir ls w ere n o t p erm it te d . I ’m s u re th ere w ere b oys in m y c la ss w ho w ould h ave r a th er c o oked th an h am mer n ails , w hile I w as r e q uir e d to

ta k e h o m e e co no m ic s. S tu b born ly , I s w ore I w ould n ever le arn to c o ok.

M y p assio n fo r b ase b all b ro ught m y b ig gest d is a p poin tm ent. G ro w in g u p in w este rn P ennsy lv ania , I w as a P it ts b urg h P ir a te s fa n, a nd I d eco ra te d

m y ro om w it h p ic tu re s o f th e p la yers a nd k ep t th eir b attin g a vera ges p oste d o n m y w all. D ad p la yed o n h is c o lle ge b ase b all te am , a nd th o ugh I

w as a g ir l, h e ta ught m e to p la y. I e arn ed m oney s e llin g g re etin g c ard s d oor- to -d oor to b uy m y v ery o w n b ase b all m it t, s ig ned b y D ic k G ro at,

sh o rts to p fo r th e P ir a te s a nd m y fa vo rit e p la yer.

O ne e ventfu l m orn in g in fif th g ra d e, o ur g ym te acher a nno unced , “ It’s th e fir s t w arm d ay o f s p rin g— tim e to s ta rt s o ftb all p ra ctic e.” I ju m ped o ut o f

m y c hair w it h g re at e xcit e m ent, r e ad y to g o . T hen I h eard , “ B oys, d ow n to th e fie ld . G ir ls , g o o ver th ere s o m ew here a nd p ra ctic e c heerle ad in g.” I

co uld n’t b elie ve m y e ars ! H ow c o uld th is b e? I w as d um bfo und ed , b ut to o s h y to o bje ct. O f c o urs e , n o w ad ays th e te acher w ould b e s u ed , b ut

back th en it w as th e w ay th in gs w ere .

I re fu se d to c heerle ad a nd ju st s to od d eje cte d ly b ehin d th e b ack sto p w atc hin g th e b oys p la y, a nd lo okin g d ow n o n m yse lf a nd th e o th er g ir ls

sim ply fo r b ein g fe m ale . I th o ught to m yse lf ,

Gir ls a re lo se rs. B oys p la y th e im porta nt ro le s, a nd g ir ls ju st s ta nd b y to c h eer th em o n.

My

se nse of se lf se em ed to evap ora te . T he exp erie nce hit m e hard but w as an im porta nt le sso n in und ers ta nd in g th e destr u ctiv e effe cts of

dis c rim in atio n. It a ls o ta ught m e h o w th e w ho le c o m munit y lo se s w hen s o m e a re le ft o ut. A fte r a ll, I re ally w as a g o od b allp la yer, a nd th e te am

w ould h ave b een b ette r, I w as s u re , if I h ad b een a llo w ed to p la y.

T here w as o ne p ers o n w ho s a w th e im porta nce o f a llo w in g g ir ls to p la y— th e ja nit o r a t In go m ar E le m enta ry S cho ol, J o e B ullic k . A t re cess, h e

org aniz e d a so ftb all g am e th at in clu d ed th e g ir ls . T ho ugh it d id n o t m ak e u p fo r th e g ym c la ss e xclu sio n, it h elp ed m e se e th at th ere w ere

possib ilit ie s, th at o th er m en a lo ng w it h m y o w n fa th er s a w th in gs d if fe re ntly , a nd th at I w as im porta nt to th em . W hen I g ra d uate d fr o m g ra d e

sc ho ol, I c o lle cte d m oney fr o m th e k id s in m y c la ss. A t th e je w elr y s to re a t th e m all, I d um ped a ja r o f c o in s o nto th e g la ss c o unte r a nd b ought J o e

a w atc h. O n g ra d uatio n d ay, I to ld m y te acher th at I w ante d to p re se nt a g if t o n b ehalf o f o ur c la ss. S he a ssu m ed it w as fo r th e s c ho ol p rin cip al,

but w hen I g o t u p o n th e s ta ge I a sk ed J o e th e ja nit o r to c o m e u p a nd g ave h im th e w atc h a nd a b ig h ug.

Jo e w ent o n to b eco m e th e s u p erv is o r o f m ain te nance fo r th e w ho le s c ho ol d is tr ic t a nd s ta rte d th e fir s t g ir l’ s s o ftb all te am a t I n go m ar J u nio r H ig h,

and la te r a g ir l’ s g o lf te am . In tim e, u nd er J o e’s c o achin g, th e In go m ar g ir l’ s s o ftb all te am b ecam e s ta te c ham pio ns. ( J o e c am e to m y s ix tie th

bir th d ay p arty , a nd a ro und th e c am pfir e w e to ld o ur in te rtw in ed lif e s to rie s o f b ein g a n in sp ir a tio n to e ach o th er. A nd h e s till h as th e w atc h!)

B ut u nfo rtu nate ly , th ere w ere o th er tim es th at c o nfir m ed th e tr e atm ent I r e ceiv ed fr o m th e g ym te acher o n th e s o ftb all fie ld . I n s e venth g ra d e I w on

a s e co nd p riz e in th e I n go m ar J u nio r H ig h S cie nce F air . I h ad a lw ays e njo yed m echanic al th in gs a nd w as g o od a t p uttin g th em to geth er. I in vente d

a d evic e u sin g m y lit tle b ro th er’s E re cto r S et. A s e rie s o f p ulle ys a tta ched to a n e le ctr ic m oto r in th e b ack o f m y d is p la y m ad e s e vera l a rro w s m ove

aro und in c ir c le s to d em onstr a te th e p ro cess o f e vap ora tio n a nd p re cip it a tio n in a p ap ie r- m âché la nd sc ap e th at I h ad m old ed fr o m n ew sp ap er. I t

had n o t o ccurre d to m e th at g ir ls d id n o t p la y w it h E re cto r S ets , n o r th at w e w ere th o ught to b e c lu ele ss w hen it c am e to m echanic al th in gs, s o I

w as ta k en a b ack w hen m y s c ie nce te acher q uestio ned m e a b out w heth er m y fa th er o r b ro th er h ad h elp ed m e w it h m y p ro je ct. I e xp la in ed th at m y

bro th er w as o nly s e ven y ears o ld a nd th at w hile it w as h is E re cto r S et, h e h ad n o t y et u se d it , a nd th at I h ad d one th e p ro je ct w it h o ut a nyo ne’s help .

T he s to ry d oesn ’t e nd th ere . D urin g th e s c ie nce fa ir , w hen a ll th e p are nts c am e to v ie w th e e xhib it s a nd c ele b ra te th e w in ners , a c la ssm ate c am e

ru nnin g to fin d m e, s a yin g th at m y te acher h ad s e nt fo r m e b ecause m y s c ie nce p ro je ct w as b ro ken. I w ent s tr a ig ht th ere . A c ro w d h ad g ath ere d

aro und m y p ro je ct w it h it s b ig r e d r ib bon, w here m y te acher s to od w it h a “ g o tc ha” s n eer o n h is fa ce. I o pened u p th e b ack o f m y e xhib it to fin d

th at s o m eo ne h ad ta k en th e b and s o ff th e p ulle ys. I q uic k ly p ut th em b ack in to p la ce a nd s ta rte d th e m oto r a gain . M y te acher lo oked s tu nned a nd

th en v ery s h eep is h . I c o uld ju st te ll fr o m h is fa ce th at h e h ad d one it a nd w hat h e h ad b een th in k in g— th at b ecause I w as a g ir l, h e c o uld n’t b elie ve I

had b uilt th e p ro je ct m yse lf a nd a ssu m ed I m ust h ave b een ly in g.

E ven b efo re th ese d is a p poin tm ents , I s h unned th in gs fe m in in e a s s is sy s tu ff. I e ven r a n a w ay in th ir d g ra d e b ecause m y m oth er w ante d m e to w ear

a d re ss o ne d ay a w eek in ste ad o f m y fa vo rit e fla nnel- lin ed je ans w it h s u sp end ers , le ath er fr in ge ja ck et, a nd c o w gir l b oots . B ut a fte r th e e xp erie nce

of b ein g e xclu d ed fr o m s o ftb all, m y n egativ e fe elin gs g re w s tr o nger a nd I d evelo ped c o nte m pt fo r g ir ls — I’d e ven g o s o fa r a s to s a y s e lf - c o nte m pt.

I lo oked d ow n o n w hat I c o nsid ere d w eak ness in m yse lf , in o th er g ir ls , a nd a ls o in b oys— le ad in g to a n in cid ent th at I la te r c am e to r e gre t.

I h ad a c hild ho od fr ie nd , a b oy a ro und m y a ge, m ayb e a y ear y o unger, w ho lik ed to d re ss u p lik e a g ir l in o ur s u m mer p la ys. I h ad e njo yed c astin g

him a s a c o m ic b alle rin a d re sse d in a p in k tu tu a nd r e d w ig . W e h ad fu n p la yin g to geth er w it h m y s is te r, D ia ne— no t o nly w it h th e s k it s , b ut a ls o

w it h b oard g am es o n r a in y d ays a nd p este rin g h is m oth er in th e h o use a cro ss th e s tr e et fo r a g la ss o f p unch th ey c alle d K ic k -a -P oo J o y J u ic e. O ne

day w hen w e w ere a b out tw elv e o r th ir te en, fo r n o re aso n th at I c an re m em ber, I s ta rte d p ic k in g o n h im — punchin g h im in th e u p per a rm a nd

ta untin g h im , “ W hat’s th e m atte r, s is sy, y o u a fr a id to fig ht? ” H e m oved a cro ss o ur la w n to w ard h is h o use a s I fo llo w ed a lo ng, c o ntin uin g m y ta unts

and o ccasio nal ja b s to h is a rm . H e d is a p peare d in to h is h o use a nd n ever c am e b ack to p la y.

I m is se d h im . I fe lt a sh am ed o f h urtin g s o m eo ne I h ad p erc eiv ed a s le ss p ow erfu l. F ro m th at e xp erie nce, I b ecam e c o nsc io us o f h o w a nd w hen I

use d m y p ow er, c are fu l n o t to ta k e a d vanta ge o f m y s iz e o r a ge, a nd fa sc in ate d to o bse rv e h o w v ario us p eo ple u se d p ow er c o nstr u ctiv ely o r

ab use d it .

A s I g re w o ld er, I w as a b le to s e e th at m y a b usiv e b ehavio r o n th at d ay w as a b out s c o rn in g th e p art o f m yse lf th at is v uln era b le a nd s o ft. I d id n’t

w ant to b e a s is sy . A t th e tim e, I d id n’t e ven w ant to b e a g ir l b ecause I s a w g ir ls a s le ss w orth y. T o a tta ck m y fr ie nd w as to a tta ck th at p art o f m e.

Today I u nd ers ta nd th at m en o r w om en w ho re je ct th eir fe m in in e s id e, ju st a s I h ad re je cte d m in e, c an b e p ote nt b ullie s— la sh in g o ut a gain st

w om en, c hild re n, a nim als , o r b oys a nd m en w ho r e veal th eir v uln era b ilit y — fo r th e v ery s a m e r e aso n: a s e lf - h atr e d o f th e s o ftn ess w it h in .

A ge b ro ught m e o th er in sig hts a b out p ow er, a s w ell, th at w ould p la y o ut in th e w orld vie w th at c am e to s h ap e m y b usin ess. O ne o f th o se w as th at

pow er c o m es w it h a n o blig atio n to p ro te ct a nd s u p port th o se w it h le ss o f it . T hat is a le sso n I le arn ed , a s m any d o, b y fa llin g in lo ve w it h a n a nim al.

F ro m th e d ays w hen I p la yed “ H ow M uch I s T hat D oggy in th e W in d ow ?” o n m y to y r e co rd p la yer a s a s ix -y ear- o ld , I b egged m y p are nts fo r a

dog. T hre e y ears la te r, p erh ap s a s a s u b stit u te fo r th e b uck ets a nd tu b s o f s n ak es, c ra yfis h , a nd s a la m and ers I k ep t in m y b ed ro om , m y p are nts

co nse nte d to g ettin g a d og a nd w e p ic k ed o ut P ep py fr o m a lit te r o f b eagle s. H e fo llo w ed m e e very w here w hile I b uilt m y fo rts a nd e xp lo re d th e

w oods, a nd I le arn ed to fe ed a nd c are fo r h im . W hen a nts g o t in to h is d og fo od d is h , I m ad e a m oat b y p ourin g w ate r in a p ie p an p la ced u nd er h is

dis h . U nfo rtu nate ly , u nlik e m ost b eagle s a nd lik ely c ause d b y a b ir th d efe ct th at c ause d h im p ain , P ep py h ad a s h o rt te m per a t tim es, u su ally w hen

kid s I d id n’t lik e m uch w ere a ro und . A fte r h e b it a fe w o f th em , th e p olic e to ld m y p are nts w e h ad to h ave h im p ut to s le ep . I c rie d fo r h im a lm ost

every n ig ht u ntil I g re w u p a nd le ft fo r c o lle ge, e ven a fte r m y p are nts b ro ught h o m e a s e co nd b eagle p up py.

In s ix th g ra d e, I w ro te a s to ry a b out th e la st tim e I s a w P ep py. W hen th e te acher a sk ed m e to r e ad it to th e c la ss, I w as a sto nis h ed th at m y s to ry

m ad e th e k id s c ry . S om e tim e a ro und th en, I r e ceiv ed a s o lic it a tio n in th e m ail. I s till d on’t k no w h o w th ey g o t th e n am e o f a te n-y ear- o ld , b ut it

w as a p ow erfu l m essa ge th at h as la ste d to th is d ay. T he s o lic it a tio n w as fr o m a n a ntiv iv is e ctio n s o cie ty , a nd it s h o w ed a p ho to gra p h o f a b eagle ,

ju st lik e P ep py, s tr a p ped d ow n o n a n o pera tin g ta b le . I s e nt in m y a llo w ance a nd h ave b een a c o ntr ib uto r e ver s in ce a fte r le arn in g th at b eagle s a re

th e m ost c o m monly u se d d og in m ed ic al r e se arc h a nd c o nsu m er p ro duct te stin g, w here th ey s u ffe r n eed le ssly .

A fte r b ein g k ep t o ff th e s o ftb all te am b ecause I w as a g ir l, it r e ally to ok m e till m y th ir tie s to b egin r e co gniz in g a nd h o no rin g th e n urtu rin g q ualit ie s in

oth ers a nd m yse lf , a nd to s to p b uyin g in to th e “ stif f u p per lip ” a p pro ach to s u ccess in th e b usin ess w orld . E ventu ally , I c am e to re aliz e th at th e

fe m in in e q ualit ie s I o fte n tr ie d n o t to r e veal a s a c hild a nd y o uth w ere th e v ery q ualit ie s m ost n eed ed in b uild in g a m ore c arin g e co no m y in to day’s

w orld . B ut fir s t I h ad to le arn to v alu e th o se q ualit ie s in m yse lf .

M ost o f u s h ave h ad th e e xp erie nce o f b ein g le ft o ut o f s o m eth in g w e w ante d to d o, fe elin g s e p ara te d a nd m arg in aliz e d b ecause o f o ur c la ss, r a ce,

age, g end er, s e xual o rie nta tio n, o r c ult u ra l b ack gro und — or fo r o ur la ck o f k no w le d ge o r m oney. O verc o m in g s u ch e xp erie nces to v alu e o ur g if ts ,

to fin d o ur tr u e p urp ose s, a nd to b elie ve in o urs e lv es c an ta k e a lo ng tim e— as it d id fo r m e. L ate r in lif e , I c am e to s e e h o w im porta nt d iv ers it y w as to th e s tr e ngth o f a ny g ro up o f p eo ple , a s it is in n atu re . S ocie ty is w eak ened w hen fe m in in e e nerg y is r e p re sse d in m en a nd w om en b oth , a nd

w hen p eo ple , w ho ever th ey a re , a re e xclu d ed fo r th eir d if fe re nces r a th er th an g iv en th e o pportu nit y to c o ntr ib ute th eir u niq ue g if ts . F in d in g a w ay

fo r e very o ne to p la y th e g am e b ecam e a n im porta nt p art o f m y b usin ess p hilo so phy.

B ut b ack in fif th g ra d e, w hen I w as r e je cte d o n th e s o ftb all fie ld , I a ccep te d m y fa te . L ik e m ost o th er g ir ls r a is e d in th e 1 950s, it b ecam e c le ar to

m e th at s in ce g ir ls c o uld n’t p la y b all, th e n ext b est th in g w as to m arry th e b est b allp la yer. I p ic k ed m y fu tu re h usb and th at d ay in fif th g ra d e. D ic k

H ayne w as th e p it c her a nd a g re at h it te r, to o— an u nusu al c o m bin atio n o f s k ills . F ro m th e b all fie ld , I w ent b ack to m y d esk in th e c la ssro om ,

cro sse d

Ju dy W ic k s

off m y ta b le t, a nd w ro te

Mrs. R ic h ard H ayn e

all o ver th e c o ver.

T w elv e y ears la te r, m y c hild ho od fa nta sy b ecam e r e alit y — I m arrie d m y fif th -g ra d e s w eeth eart a nd b ecam e M rs . R ic hard H ayne. Jen se n : D oes th e u niv erse th en h ave a p urp ose ?

B erry : T he p urp ose i s s im ply e xis te n ce. A nd th e g lo ry o f e xis te n ce. T hat’ s th e u lti m ate p urp ose o f e very th in g— exis te n ce

and s e lf- d eli g ht i n e xis te n ce.

—Derric k J e n se n in te rv ie w in g T hom as B erry in

Lis te n in g to T he L and

2

A C ult u re o f S harin g : L if e w it h t h e E sk im os

T HE W AR I N

V IE T N A M

was r a gin g w hen D ic k a nd I g ra d uate d fr o m c o lle ge in th e s p rin g o f 1 969 a nd m arrie d th at s u m mer in th e w oods b ehin d

m y h o use in o ur h o m eto w n o f I n go m ar. I h ad lo st m y J o hn P hilip S ousa p atr io tis m . N o lo nger d id I b elie ve th at th e U nit e d S ta te s w as a lw ays r ig ht.

D ic k ’s c o lle ge d efe rm ent fr o m th e d ra ft e nd ed o n g ra d uatio n d ay. I f w e d id n’t fin d a d ra ft d efe rra b le jo b, h e c o uld e nd u p in V ie tn am , a w ar w e

both s tr o ngly o ppose d .

W e th o ught o f jo in in g th e P eace C orp s, w hic h w ould h ave s o lv ed th e p ro ble m , b ut th e a d m is sio ns p ro cess w as le ngth y, s o w e s ig ned u p fo r th e

dom estic a lt e rn ativ e— Volu nte ers in S erv ic e to A meric a (V IS TA )— and re q ueste d a n a ssig nm ent to a la rg e e aste rn c it y . I h ad lo ng d re am ed o f

liv in g in a b ig c it y , a fte r g ro w in g u p in In go m ar. B ut th e g o vern m ent a ssig ned u s to a n In d ia n re se rv atio n in th e M id w est in ste ad a nd s e nt u s fo r

tr a in in g in O re go n. D urin g o ur o rie nta tio n, o ur c la ss o f s e vera l h und re d v o lu nte ers w as a sk ed if a m arrie d c o up le a m ong u s w as w illin g to s e rv e in a

re m ote E sk im o v illa ge in A la sk a fo r a y ear.

Why n ot?

we th o ught. I t tu rn ed o ut th at D ic k a nd I w ere th e o nly o nes to r a is e o ur h and s. S o a fte r o ur

tr a in in g— whic h in clu d ed a g ru elin g th re e-d ay w ild ern ess b ack pack in g tr ip to w eed o ut th e fa in th earte d , w it h o ne n ig ht w hen w e w ere e ach le ft o n

a c hilly m ounta in to p a lo ne w it h o ut a te nt, s le ep in g b ag, o r a ny s u p plie s o th er th an o ne p ack o f m atc hes— we w ere s e nt to C hefo rn ak , A la sk a,

popula tio n 1 20. N ot e xactly th e b ig c it y I h ad d re am ed o f.

T here w ere n o ro ad s le ad in g to th is is o la te d v illa ge p erc hed o n th e b ank o f th e K in ia R iv er n o t fa r fr o m th e B erin g S ea, a to w n fa r s m alle r a nd

m ore r e m ote th an I n go m ar e ver w as. T he n eare st a ir p ort, h o sp it a l, a nd p ho ne w ere a ll a h und re d m ile s a w ay in a to w n to th e n o rth east— Beth el,

popula tio n 1 ,6 00. I n s u m mer, b oats c o uld n avig ate th e r iv ers , a nd in w in te r th e d ogsle d s m ad e th e h aza rd ous jo urn ey a cro ss th e u nm ark ed , fr o ze n

tu nd ra . W e tr a vele d a s p asse ngers o n th e m ail p la ne th at c arrie d s u p plie s a nd le tte rs fr o m B eth el to th e s c atte re d E sk im o v illa ges o f s o uth w este rn

A la sk a. T he r iv er s e rv ed a s th e r u nw ay, w here th e p la nes u se d p onto ons in th e s u m mer a nd s k is a fte r fr e eze -u p .

O ur r id e to C hefo rn ak in th e m ail p la ne b egan w it h a h arro w in g ta k eo ff fr o m th e r iv er in B eth el, s till u nfr o ze n o n a n e arly S ep te m ber d ay. I s a t n ext

to th e b ush p ilo t w it h D ic k b ehin d m e a m id b oxes a nd m ailb ags p ile d to th e c eilin g. A s w e ro are d a cro ss th e w ate r o n p onto ons, th e p la ne

str u ggle d to lif t o ff, it s d oors r a ttlin g a s th o ugh th ey m ig ht fa ll a w ay a ny m in ute . F ro m th e fr o nt s e at, I w atc hed th e s h o re c o m e c lo se r a nd c lo se r,

and ju st a s I th o ught w e w ould s u re ly r u n s m ack in to th e tr e es lo om in g u p a head , th e p ilo t s u d denly c ut th e e ngin e a nd h ead ed b ack to th e d ock .

H e n o nchala ntly th re w s o m e b oxes o ff th e p la ne a nd tr ie d a gain , th is tim e w it h s u ccess a s w e lif te d fr o m th e w ate r a nd s o are d o ver th e tr e es in to

th e s k y.

T here w as a n a ir o f th e O ld W est a b out th e r u gged b ush p ilo t. J u st a s th e s ta geco aches o f fr o ntie r d ays s e rv ed th e s c atte re d W este rn s e ttle m ents ,

m ail p la nes w ere th e p rim ary c o nta ct w it h th e o uts id e w orld fo r th e r e m ote E sk im o v illa gers , b rin gin g a le tte r fr o m a c hild in th e I n d ia n h ig h s c ho ols

of O kla ho m a o r O re go n, a s is te r w ho h ad m arrie d in to a no th er v illa ge, a s o n in C alif o rn ia fo r N atio nal G uard tr a in in g, o r a s p ouse b ein g tr e ate d in

an A ncho ra ge h o sp it a l.

A s w e lo oked d ow n fr o m th e a ir , C hefo rn ak w as e asy to m is s. A w ooden b oard w alk r u nnin g th e le ngth o f th e v illa ge fr o m th e s c ho olh o use a t o ne

end to a c hurc h a t th e o th er c o nnecte d le ss th an tw o d oze n s m all h o use s. A s w e la nd ed o n th e r iv er a nd ta xie d to th e d ock , it s e em ed th e w ho le

villa ge o f 1 20 p eo ple c am e o ut to m eet u s. A n ew n eig hb or g re ete d u s a nd s h o w ed u s to o ur tin y o ne-ro om c ab in , w hic h w as n o t m uch b ig ger th an

m y c hild ho od fo rts . L ik e a ll th e o th er c ab in s, it w as p ie ced to geth er w it h o ld s c ra p s o f w ood w ra p ped in ta r p ap er a nd h eate d w it h a n o il s to ve.

T he fu rn is h in gs w ere a s s p ars e a s th e la nd sc ap e: a k it c hen s in k , a b ed , a nd a lit tle ta b le w it h s e vera l c hair s . T here w as n o b ath ro om , n o s h o w er o r

bath tu b , o nly a n o uth o use — a fr ig hte nin g th o ught c o nsid erin g th e s u b ze ro te m pera tu re s to c o m e. B ut I s o on le arn ed th at it w as o nly a p la ce to

dum p w hat w as c alle d a “ h o ney b uck et” a fte r it w as u se d in d oors .

T he c ab in ’s r e al s u rp ris e , th o ugh, w as th e th ir ty o r s o e m pty , g ia nt- siz e d p eanut b utte r ja rs s ta ck ed o n th e s h elv es lin in g th e w alls , a p pare ntly le ft

by th e v o lu nte ers th at h ad s p ent th e p re vio us y ear th ere . I r e m em ber w ond erin g ju st h o w a nyo ne c o uld e at s o m uch p eanut b utte r in o ne y ear. B ut

I w ould s o on fe el th e s a m e c ra vin g fo r fa t o nce th e c o ld w eath er s e t in . A t tw enty -tw o, I s till h eld to m y h o m e e co no m ic s c la ss re je ctio n o f

co okin g, b ut in C hefo rn ak I m ad e m y fir s t e xcep tio n, q uic k ly le arn in g h o w to m ak e b re ad in th e o ven o f o ur ir o n-to pped s to ve. T hen D ic k a nd I

sm eare d th ic k s lic es w it h lo ts o f p eanut b utte r, ja r a fte r ja r.

F ollo w in g o ur a ctiv e c o lle ge d ays, th e p ace o f v illa ge lif e in it ia lly fe lt p ain fu lly s lo w . O ur V IS TA p ro je cts te achin g p re sc ho ol a nd a d ult e d ucatio n

to ok u p o nly a b out tw elv e h o urs a w eek , a nd D ic k ’s m ain p ro je ct to h elp th e m en a sse m ble n ew p re -fa b h o usin g d id n o t b egin u ntil th e s p rin g. T here w as s o lit tle s tim ulu s th at I s o m etim es fo und m yse lf s it tin g s till a nd w atc hin g r e ru ns o f m y lif e in m y m in d . T he b ig gest d iv ers io n w as th e m ail

pla ne. I n o ur fir s t w eek s, I w as s u rp ris e d to s e e h o w a ll th e v illa gers d ro pped w hat th ey w ere d oin g a nd r a n e xcit e d ly d ow n to th e r iv er a t th e fir s t

so und o f th e m oto r’s h um , r u sh in g to b e th e fir s t to p oin t o ut th e d is ta nt s p ot o f th e a p pro achin g p la ne in th e s k y. I t w as n o t lo ng, th o ugh, b efo re I

jo in ed th e s ta m ped e d ow n to th e r iv er a nd a cro ss th e fr o ze n ic e to g re et th e p la ne a lo ng w it h th em , e ager fo r n ew s fr o m h o m e.

A no th er d iv ers io n c am e in e arly fa ll, w hen m ost e very o ne w ould h ead to th e r iv er a gain , b ut fo r a d if fe re nt r e aso n. F or ju st a fe w d ays, th e r iv er ic e

w as s tr o ng e no ugh to h o ld p eo ple , b ut n o t to o th ic k to c ut th ro ugh, s o it w as p erfe ct fo r ic e fis h in g. D ic k a nd I ta gged a lo ng a nd le arn ed to fis h

w it h a c ir c ula r r o d th at lo oked m ore lik e a m obile th an a fis h in g im ple m ent, w it h s tr in gs to h o ld it fr o m th e to p a nd s e vera l h o oked lin es d anglin g o ff

it . T he id ea w as to ta k e th e r o d in o ne h and , lo w er it d ow n th ro ugh a h o le c ut ju st to it s s iz e , th en y ank it u p . I n th e o th er h and w e h eld a r o und n et,

als o th e s iz e o f th e h o le in th e ic e, w ait in g to s c o op u p th e s n agged fis h . A t th at tim e o f y ear, s h ad r a n s o th ic k u nd er th e ic e th at it w as h ard n o t to

get a ny s n agged o n th e h o oks. W e w ere a m aze d to s e e th e p ile s o f fis h g ro w b ig ger a nd b ig ger n ext to th e E sk im os a s th ey s n agged m ore a nd

m ore , u ntil e ach h ad c aught h und re d s, e no ugh to la st th ro ugh th e w in te r a fte r d ry in g o ver s m oke. S tr u gglin g to g et th e h ang o f it , D ic k a nd I fin ally

caught a d oze n o r s o s h ad b efo re h ead in g in o ut o f th e n ear- ze ro -d egre e c o ld .

E xcep t fo r th e ic e fis h in g, w here s o m e o f th e b est c atc hes w ere m ad e b y w om en, m ost o f th e a ctiv it ie s o f th e v illa ge w ere la rg ely s e gre gate d d urin g

th e d ay, w it h th e m en o uts id e h untin g, fis h in g, m ak in g re p air s , ta k in g ste am b ath s, o r h angin g o ut so m ep la ce w here th e w om en w ere n’t. T he

w om en sta yed in d oors v is it in g e ach o th er in g ro up s, te nd in g b ab ie s a nd y o ung c hild re n w hile d oin g b ead w ork , se w in g c lo th es, a nd w eavin g

bask ets fr o m fie ld g ra ss. N atu ra lly , I h ung o ut w it h th e w om en, e sp ecia lly J a ne, w ho w as m y a ge a nd s p oke E nglis h . E very d ay a t h er h o use w e

w ould ta lk o ver h o t te a s e rv ed w it h la rg e s o da c ra ck ers c alle d “ p ilo t b re ad ” s p re ad w it h ja m a s w e k ep t o ur e ye o n h er tw o y o ung c hild re n. W hen

I m anaged to w eave a s m all b ask et, J a ne te ase d m e th at it lo oked lik e a w his k ey b ottle .

O ne o f m y fa vo rit e tim es o f th e w eek w as g ath erin g in th e h o use o f L eo n, th e jo lly p ostm aste r, w ho w as a m ong th e fe w a d ult s w ho s p oke E nglis h ,

w hic h h e le arn ed w hile h e w as in C alif o rn ia fo r tu b erc ulo sis tr e atm ent. A re p re se nta tiv e o f e ach fa m ily s a t o n th e flo or o f L eo n’s h o use w hile h e

passe d o ut th e m ail, m ak in g jo kes a b out w hat e ach le tte r o r p ack age c o nta in ed . J o kin g w as a n a rt fo rm a m ong th e E sk im os, a nd L eo n w as a

m aste r. I o nly w is h ed I c o uld h ave s p oken th e la nguage to u nd ers ta nd th e r o ars o f la ughte r a s e ach le tte r w as d is tr ib ute d , b ut I b egan to r e aliz e th at

m ost o f h is jo kes w ere a b out s e x.

H e a ls o fo und g re at h um or in th e lit tle g o ld en p up py th at D ic k a nd I h ad ta k en in a nd n am ed A ugeyak , th e E sk im o w ord fo r s ta r. T ho ugh m ost

fa m ilie s h ad s le d d ogs, p ets w ere r a re . E very o nce in a w hile , th ank s to a lo ne s h o rt- h air e d d og s o m eo ne h ad b ro ught to C hefo rn ak lo ng a go , a

dog w ould b e b orn w it h o ut th e th ic k c o at n eed ed to s u rv iv e th e h ars h , o fte n s u b ze ro w in te rs c hain ed o uts id e— as th e d ogs in th e v illa ge w ere .

A ugie , a s w e c am e to c all h im , w as o ne o f th o se , a nd w e h ad ta k en h im in to m ak e th e p la ce s e em a lit tle m ore lik e h o m e. W hen I b ro ught h im o ut

to th e m ail g ath erin gs, I k ep t h im n estle d in th e fr o nt o f m y p ark a. L eo n th o ught it h yste ric al th at a d og w ould b e h eld a gain st th e b re ast a nd to ok

gre at d elig ht in c allin g A ugie m y “ b ab y.” “ W on’t y o ur h usb and p ro vid e y o u w it h a r e al b ab y?” h e w ould te ase m e.

It s n o w ed a lm ost d aily , a nd th e s tr o ng w in d s b le w d rif ts th at c o vere d o ur lit tle h o use . W hen w e o pened o ur d oor in th e m orn in g w e w ere g re ete d

by a w all o f w hit e . W e d ug o urs e lv es o ut e ach d ay a nd c le are d o ur o ne w in d ow to le t in th e s c arc e lig ht. I g ra d ually a d ju ste d to th e p ace a nd s p ent

ho urs e xam in in g p atte rn s o f fr o st o n th e w in d ow a nd s it tin g o uts id e in m y d ow n p ark a s tir rin g a c o nta in er o f c o nd ense d m ilk a nd s u gar, d elig hte d

th at it w ould tu rn in to ic e c re am in th e fr ig id te m pera tu re . S om etim es it w as s o c o ld th at A ugie ’s w ate r b ow l o n th e flo or o f o ur c ab in w ould fr e eze .

O ur b ed w as u p o n s tilt s to b rin g u s a s c lo se to th e c eilin g a s p ossib le , th e w arm est p la ce in th e c ab in .

B ut I c o uld n’t q uit e le ave th e w orld I k new b ehin d m e. D urin g th e lo ng, d ark d ays o f th e A rc tic w in te r, w hen d aylig ht w as o nly a d usk lik e g ra y

haze a t n o ontim e, I r e co gniz e d m y a tta chm ent to te chno lo gy. F or o nly tw o h o urs a d ay w e h ad s o m eth in g w ond erfu l c alle d e le ctr ic it y . I h ad n ever

re aliz e d m y d ep end ence o n e le ctr ic it y u ntil I w ent tw enty -tw o h o urs a d ay w it h o ut it . D esp it e m y p le asa nt tim es d rin k in g te a w it h th e w om en, I

fo und m yse lf w ait in g in e ager a ntic ip atio n fo r th o se tw o g le efu l h o urs .

In th e la te a fte rn o ons, I p re p are d fo r th e m om ent in e arly e venin g w hen th e e le ctr ic it y w ould c o m e o n. I fo und a to y re co rd p la yer a m ong th e

pre sc ho ol s u p plie s a nd e ach d ay s e t it u p o n th e ta b le a nd p lu gged it in . T here w as o nly o ne r e co rd , le ft b y p ast v o lu nte ers . I p la ced it o n th e tin y,

m otio nle ss tu rn ta b le , s e t th e n eed le o n th e e d ge, a nd tu rn ed th e v o lu m e k no b to h ig h. A lit tle r a d io s it tin g s ile ntly o n th e s h elf a b ove m e w as s e t o n

th e o nly s ta tio n w e c o uld p ic k u p — a S ovie t o ne fr o m a cro ss th e B erin g S ea. T hat v o lu m e k no b a ls o w as s e t to h ig h. I n th e s tilln ess, I s a t a t m y

ta b le b y c and le lig ht, s ta rin g a t th e b are lig htb ulb h angin g a b ove m e, w ait in g fo r it to g o o n a nd lis te nin g in te ntly fo r a d is ta nt s o und .

A t la st I h eard it — th e fa in t s p utte r o f a m oto r o n th e o th er s id e o f th e v illa ge, th en a g ro w lin g h um ris in g a nd fa llin g, g ro w in g lo ud er a nd fa ste r,

fa ste r a nd lo ud er a s th e g enera to r p ic k ed u p s p eed . T he lig htb ulb b egan to flic k er, th e r a d io c ra ck le d , a nd th e tu rn ta b le s lo w ly b egan to m ove. A s

th e h um in th e d is ta nce b ecam e a r o ar, th e tu rn ta b le g ain ed s p eed , a nd R ussia n v o ic es c am e fr o m th e r a d io . T he d is to rte d m oanin g fr o m th e r e co rd

pla yer g re w in to a v o ic e I k new w ell. “ E very b ody, le t’s r o ck . . . d ancin ’ to th e J a ilh o use R ock ,” b elt e d th e K in g. I ju m ped to m y fe et a nd d anced

ab out th e c ab in . If y o u’re liv in g in a re m ote A rc tic v illa ge a nd y o u o nly h ave o ne re co rd ,

Elv is P re sle y’s G re a te st H it s

was th e b est I c o uld

im agin e. I c o uld h ear th e w ash in g m achin e o f m y n ext- d oor n eig hb or, M aria , c ra nk in g u p to w ash th e c lo th es o f h er s ix c hild re n. A t th at p oin t in m y

lif e , I d id n’t th in k a b out w here e le ctr ic it y c am e fr o m — oil, n ucle ar p ow er, h yd ro ele ctr ic d am s. I w asn ’t a w are a nd w ould n’t h ave c are d . I ju st

w ante d to e njo y it .

M y fa m ily s e nt c are p ack ages o n a r e gula r b asis , a nd a g ro up o f te enage g ir ls w ould in evit a b ly fo llo w m e h o m e fr o m th e p ostm an’s h o use to s e e

w hat h ad c o m e. I o pened a m ild S w is s c heese m y m oth er h ad s e nt, a nd th e g ir ls w ere r e p uls e d , fe elin g n ause o us a t th e s m ell a nd th e v ery id ea o f

aged m ilk . T hat w as s tr a nge to m e u ntil th e s it u atio n w as r e vers e d o ne d ay w hen th e g ir ls c am e in to m y c ab in h o ld in g th eir h and s o ver th eir m outh s

and g ig glin g. “ W hate ver is th e p ro ble m ?” I a sk ed . “ S tin k h ead s,” th ey r e p lie d s h eep is h ly . T hey h ad b een e atin g s tin k h ead s, a nd k no w in g h o w th e

sm ell w ould o ffe nd m e, w ere c o verin g th eir m outh s. “ S tin k h ead s” w ere m ad e b y s tu ffin g th e h ead s o f r a w fis h in to th e e xtr a cte d s to m ach o f a s e al,

and th en b ury in g th e tie d b und le in th e g ro und . A fte r a fe w w eek s, w hen th e s tin k h ead s h ad b eco m e s tin k y e no ugh, th e d elic acy w as r e ad y to e at.

R ancid s e al o il, a s o urc e o f fa t th at w as a ls o a ged in b urie d s to m achs, w as s q uir te d o n d rie d fis h a nd o n e very th in g e ls e , to o. M uch lik e c ats u p in th e lo w er fo rty -e ig ht, it w as th e fa vo rit e c o nd im ent in C hefo rn ak .

“S eal p arty , s e al p arty !” c am e th e in vit a tio n, a lo ng w it h a n e ager k no ck in g. O penin g m y c ab in d oor, I w as g re ete d b y a w id e g rin e ncir c le d w it h

fu r. M aria , o ur n ext- d oor n eig hb or, h ad o n h er d re ss-u p

kosp ok

, a c o lo rfu l c o tto n d re ss w orn o ver a lo ng fu r p ark a w it h a h o od tr im med in fo x

fu r. S he b eck oned m e to fo llo w , a s s h e tu rn ed to jo in th e o th er v illa ge w om en h urry in g a cro ss th e s n o w in s e als k in b oots ( c alle d

muklu ks

) w it h

pails sw in gin g fr o m m it te ned h and s. T heir fe stiv e

kosp oks

were b rig ht sw atc hes o f c o lo r a gain st th e p ure w hit e la nd sc ap e, str e tc hin g fla t a nd

tr e ele ss to th e d is ta nt h o riz o n in a ll d ir e ctio ns. I p ulle d o n m y

muklu ks

, s lip ped o n m y

kosp ok

th at M aria h ad m ad e fo r m e o ut o f b rig ht g re en

co rd uro y s e nt b y m y m oth er, a nd jo in ed th e p arty .

A b lu e, c lo ud le ss s k y d om ed o ver th is s p eck o f a v illa ge in e arly s p rin g w it h th e te m pera tu re b are ly a b ove fr e ezin g. A fte r w in te r te m pera tu re s a s

lo w a s th ir ty -fiv e b elo w , th e s p rin g a ir fe lt w arm a nd in vit in g. T he E sk im o w om en g ath ere d o uts id e th e d oorw ay o f a s im ple w ooden c ab in a lm ost

burie d in s n o w , th e h o m e o f F lo re nce a nd G eo rg e B illy , p are nts o f m y fr ie nd J a ne. G eo rg e h ad ju st c aught h is fir s t s e al o f th e s e aso n, a tim e fo r

cele b ra tio n. T ra d it io n c alle d fo r th e w if e to d iv id e th e m eat a m ong th e fa m ilie s in th e v illa ge, w ho in o ld en tim es w ould h ave h ad lit tle le ft to e at a t

w in te r’s e nd . F lo re nce d ro pped a la rg e s lic e o f d ark r e d s e al m eat a nd a c hunk o f b lu b ber ( a no th er s o urc e o f fa t) in to e ach o f th e w om en’s p ails .

A fte r th e m eat w as d is tr ib ute d , th e tr a d it io n w as to h and o ut th in gs th e fa m ily h ad a ccum ula te d d urin g th e y ear th at w ere n o t n eed ed fo r s u rv iv al,

su ch a s fu rs , fa b ric s, b utto ns, a nd c anned g o ods. A s a g ra nd fin ale , s m all it e m s lik e h ard c and ie s w ere to sse d in to th e a ir . L aughin g a nd c heerin g,

m oon-sh ap ed fa ces s h in in g u p to w ard th e s u n, th e w om en c aught th e p riz e s in th e o uts tr e tc hed s k ir ts o f th eir

kosp oks

. It w as a fo rm o f w ealt h

re d is tr ib utio n s e rv ed o ut in b utto ns a nd b ub ble g um . I jo in ed r ig ht in , h o pin g fo r m y fa vo rit e — ro ot b eer b arre ls — and e ager fo r m erry m ak in g in th e

su nsh in e a fte r th e lo ng, d ark w in te r.

I h ad n ever s e en a nyth in g lik e th is k in d o f s h arin g. In go m ar w as a w arm a nd c arin g p la ce. B ut in m y s o cie ty , w hat o ne e arn ed b elo nged to th e

earn er. H ere , in C hefo rn ak ’s in d ig eno us c ult u re , w hat w as c aught fr o m n atu re ’s b ounty b elo nged to e very o ne. C hefo rn ak ’s s u b sis te nce e co no m y

w as b ase d o n s h arin g, c o opera tio n, a nd fr u galit y .

If y o u a d m ir e d s o m eth in g a n E sk im o h ad , th e p ers o n w ould g iv e it to y o u. T his m eant I h ad to b e c are fu l w it h c o m plim ents . O nce I s a id , “ I r e ally

lik e y o ur n eck la ce,” a nd a n E sk im o w om an to ok it o ff a nd h and ed it to m e. T he E sk im os o f C hefo rn ak h ad n o c o ncep t o f e nvy o r o w ners h ip ,

giv in g fr e ely w hat w as d esir e d — a d ra m atic c o ntr a st to th e c o m petit iv e c o nsu m er e co no m y I h ad g ro w n u p w it h , o ne w here a d vertis in g c re ate d

envy in o rd er to in cre ase s p end in g. A ds m ad e w om en fe el th ey h ad to b uy a no th er d re ss, o r y et a no th er s h ad e o f lip stic k , to b e a ttr a ctiv e. M en

had to h ave a n ew c ar o r s m oke a c erta in b ra nd o f c ig are tte , o r th ey w ere m ad e to fe el in ad eq uate . I n th is fa ra w ay la nd , fr e e o f te le vis io n a nd th e

ad vertis e m ents a nd b illb oard s th at p ro lif e ra te d in m y e nvir o nm ent a t h o m e, I b egan to u nd ers ta nd m ore a b out h o w th e v alu es o f m y s o cie ty w ere

sh ap ed . A lo ng w it h o th er g ir ls o f m y g enera tio n, th e fir s t to g ro w u p w atc hin g te le vis io n, I h ad b een p ro gra m med to b e a g o od c o nsu m er, m ovin g

on fr o m m y to m boy d ays to d esir e th e c lo th es, b ody s h ap e, a nd lif e sty le s o f g la m oro us m odels . H ere w it h th e E sk im os, n o ne o f th at m atte re d .

T he E sk im os v ie w ed h o ard in g a s d evia nt, w hic h b y c o ntr a st m ad e m e re aliz e h o w m y o w n so cie ty re w ard ed g re ed . R ath er th an se ein g it a s

destr u ctiv e b ehavio r, w e a ctu ally a d m ir e th o se w ho h o ard th e m ost— th o se w ho u se u p th e m ost n atu ra l re so urc es o n b ig h o use s, b ig c ars , b ig

w ard ro bes, and o th er accum ula tio ns o f m ate ria l w ealt h . T he C hefo rn ak E sk im os, o n th e o th er hand , valu ed p eo ple and natu re m ore th an

posse ssio ns. T hat le sso n w as o ne th at I w ould tr y to c arry w it h m e a s I c ra fte d m y o w n lif e a nd b usin ess in la te r y ears . B ut o th er le sso ns th at

w ould s h ap e m y lif e s till a w ait e d m e in A la sk a, a nd o ne o f th o se w as a b out th e p ow er o f c o m munit y .

A t th e tim e w e fir s t a rriv ed , E sk im o v illa ge lif e w as s till la rg ely c o m munal, w it h c o ncern fo cuse d o n th e w ell- b ein g o f th e g ro up ra th er th an o n

in d iv id ual a chie vem ent. T ra d it io nally n o m ad ic , th e E sk im os w ere lu re d b y th e g o vern m ent to s e ttle in o ne p la ce b y a p ro m is e th at th e B ure au o f

In d ia n A ffa ir s ( B IA ) w ould p ro vid e a s c ho ol in e ach v illa ge to e d ucate th eir c hild re n. C ult u ra l d if fe re nces b ecam e a p pare nt w hen c hild re n s h ra nk

fr o m th e p ra is e o f w hit e s c ho olt e achers w ho re w ard ed g o od w ork w it h th e p ro verb ia l s ta r o n th e fo re head to s in gle o ut s u p erio r s tu d ents , a n

em barra ssm ent in th e c o opera tiv e E sk im o s o cie ty .

B ut ju st a s I h ad s e en c hange c o m e to I n go m ar, I s a w it c o m e to C hefo rn ak e ven m ore s ta rk ly .

T he E sk im os h ave a lo ng o ra l tr a d it io n, a nd th eir h is to ry a nd c ult u re h ad b een p asse d d ow n th ro ugh s to ry te llin g in th e Y up ik la nguage. B ut e ver

sin ce th e v illa ge h ad s e ttle d a ro und th e B IA s c ho olh o use s o m e y ears a go , th e y o unger g enera tio n fr o m m y a ge d ow n n o w s p oke E nglis h . E very

F rid ay n ig ht a n A meric an m ovie w as s h o w n, a nd th ro ugh th ese m ovie s th e E sk im os w ere e d ucate d in th e lif e sty le s o f W este rn c ult u re . A lr e ad y,

one fa m ily h ad p ut in a w ooden flo or c o vere d w it h lin o le um , w hic h th ey k ep t c le an w it h S pic a nd S pan, re p la cin g th e b are d ir t flo ors th at h ad

pro vid ed th e w arm th o f th e e arth . R ub ber b oots fr o m S ears c ata lo gs w ere re p la cin g th e c o zy a nd w arm er s e als k in

muklu ks

wit h in ner s o le s o f

co ile d fie ld g ra ss.

C ult u ra l c hange w as a ls o c re ep in g in a s y o ung E sk im o m en jo in ed th e N atio nal G uard , a s n early a ll o f th em d id , b elie vin g th at th ey w ere p ro te ctin g

our s h o re s fr o m th e S ovie ts a cro ss th e s e a. R etu rn in g to th e v illa ge a fte r b asic tr a in in g, th ey b ro ught n ew h ab it s th at c o nflic te d w it h v illa ge lif e —

drin k in g; c hain -sm okin g; s w earin g; a nd lo ud , b ois te ro us ta lk , a ll o f w hic h w ere fr ig hte nin g to th e g ir ls . L ik e m any in d ig eno us p eo ple , E sk im os h ave

a lo w p hysio lo gic al to le ra nce fo r a lc o ho l. A fte r s o m e in cid ents w hen a lc o ho l tu rn ed n o rm ally lo vin g a nd p eacefu l p eo ple in to a b use rs , th e v illa ge

vo te d to b eco m e “ d ry .” B ut a lc o ho l w as s till a n o ccasio nal p ro ble m . T his h it m e p ers o nally w hen a d ru nk d riv in g a s n o w mobile p urp ose ly r a n d ow n A ugie , s n ap pin g th e te nd on o f a b ack le g s o th at it h ung lim p a nd

use le ss. T he c lo se st v ete rin aria n w as in A ncho ra ge, w ay to o fa r to tr a vel, s o I to ok th e m ail p la ne b ack to B eth el a nd w alk ed to th e h o sp it a l,

w here I p le ad ed w it h a d octo r to o pera te o n m y d og. A y o ung p hysic ia n a b out m y a ge, s ta tio ned in A la sk a to d o c o m munit y s e rv ic e, k in d ly

agre ed . I ’ll n ever fo rg et th e s ig ht o f A ugie b ein g w heele d d ow n th e h all to th e o pera tin g r o om , u nco nsc io us u nd er a w hit e s h eet. T he o pera tio n w as

a s u ccess, a nd w e le ft w it h a b ig c ast o n A ugie ’s le g a nd in str u ctio ns fo r h o w I w ould r e m ove it b ack in th e v illa ge, a lo ng w it h th e s tit c hes, w hen

th e le g h eale d .

A lt h o ugh th ere w ere d if fe re nt o pin io ns in th e v illa ge, th e g ro up n o w le ad in g th e v illa ge c o uncil fe lt th eir fu tu re la y in a d ap tin g to th e w hit e m an’s

w ays a nd fo rg ettin g a b out th e c ult u re o f th eir a ncesto rs . T his w as n ever c le are r to m e th an w hen I w as h elp in g a g ro up o f te enage g ir ls p la n s o m e

events a nd e d ucatio nal p ro je cts . I s u ggeste d th at th ey d ocum ent th e s to rie s o f th e v illa ge e ld ers in E nglis h a nd h o ld tr a d it io nal E sk im o d ances, b ut

th e v illa ge c o uncil d enie d p erm is sio n to p ub lis h th e s to rie s a nd to h o ld tr a d it io nal d ances.

W hile s o m e v illa gers w ere e m barra sse d a b out b ein g E sk im o, th ere w ere s till s o m e w ho r e m ain ed p ro ud o f th eir c ult u re . B ut th e tid e w as s h if tin g to

th e W est. W it h th e m oney fr o m jo bs o n fis h in g b oats a nd c annerie s, a n in cre asin g n um ber o f v illa ge m en w ere s h o w in g o ff th e la te st m odels o f

sn o w mobile s. W hen w e a rriv ed in th e v illa ge o nly tw o fa m ilie s h ad s n o w mobile s, w hile th e o th er e ig hte en fa m ilie s h ad d ogsle d s. W hen w e le ft

clo se to a y ear la te r, o nly o ne fa m ily s till h ad a d ogsle d , a nd th e r e st w ere n o w d ep end ent o n g aso lin e-d riv en s n o w mobile s.

S o m uch w as c hangin g s o fa st— dep end ency o n g aso lin e, r u b ber b oots a nd c o ats fr o m th e S ears c ata lo gs, jo bs in th e g lo bal e co no m y: W este rn

cult u re h ad c o m e to C hefo rn ak r ig ht b efo re m y e yes. I t s e em ed to m e th at a s p eo ple b egan a ccum ula tin g p osse ssio ns, th e fe elin gs o f c o m petit io n

and e nvy, o nce v ir tu ally u nk no w n, b ecam e m ore c o m mon.

D urin g th e te n m onth s I s p ent in th e v illa ge, I w it n esse d th e d is in te gra tio n o f a c ult u ra lly b eautif u l, e nvir o nm enta lly s u sta in ab le s o cie ty th at h ad la ste d

fo r th o usa nd s o f y ears . F or s o m e o f th e v illa gers , th is w as w elc o m ed p ro gre ss, w hile o th ers fe lt s a d ness a nd a lo ss o f a w ay o f lif e th ey c heris h ed .

O ne m an, w ho se fiv e c hild re n w ere a m ong o ur fa vo rit e v is it o rs , r e fu se d th e W este rn w ays a nd c o ntin ued to liv e s im ply a nd c o opera tiv ely . W hen

he w ent h untin g o r fis h in g, h e w ould o fte n s h are h is c atc h w it h u s, s to ppin g b y o ur c ab in to d ro p o ff a d uck o r fis h . D urin g o ur s ta y, h e b ecam e ill

and la y o n th e ta b le in h is h o use , s u rro und ed b y h is w if e a nd c hild re n u ntil h e e ventu ally d ie d . I c an’t h elp b ut th in k th at h is d eath w as in s o m e w ay

a r e fu sa l to liv e in a c hangin g s o cie ty th at n o lo nger p ra ctic ed th e v alu es h e u p held .

O ne d ay a s th e E sk im o g ir ls w atc hed m e u np ack in g a b ox fr o m h o m e, I u nw ra p ped a p air o f p in k s a tin s lip pers , a g if t fr o m N ana ( w ho h ad n o t y et

giv en u p o n m ak in g m e a la d y). I ’ll n ever fo rg et h o w s tr a nge a nd o ut o f p la ce th o se s lip pers lo oked in m y p rim it iv e c ab in in A la sk a. T he s h in y p in k

sh im mere d a nd g lo w ed lik e th e m agic al s lip pers o f a p rin cess fr o m a fa ra w ay la nd . T he g ir ls

ooh

ed a nd

aw w

ed o ver th em . B ecause th e s lip pers

w ere n’t a p pro pria te fo r th e w eath er a nd c o nd it io ns, I to ld th e g ir ls I w as p uttin g th em a w ay. T hey lo oked d is a p poin te d a nd p erh ap s a sh am ed , a nd

I s u d denly r e aliz e d th ey th o ught I w as s a yin g th at th eir v illa ge w as n o t g o od e no ugh fo r th e d elic ate p in k s lip pers , w here m ost o f th e h o use s s till h ad

dir t flo ors .

W hat c o uld I s a y to e xp la in to th e g ir ls h o w m uch m ore I a p pre cia te d th e w arm s e als k in

muklu ks

tr im med in b eaver a nd b ead s th at M aria h ad

m ad e fo r m e th an th e s illy p in k s lip pers ? H ow th e s im ple e arth flo ors in th eir h o m es w ere a ctu ally c le aner th an w hit e lin o le um w ash ed w it h c le anin g

pro ducts fu ll o f c hem ic als ? H ow c o uld I e xp la in to th em , a s I fe lt e ven th en, th at th e “ p in k s lip per s o cie ty ” w as d estr o yin g th e e arth a nd th at w e

had to b eco m e m ore lik e th em , n o t th ey lik e u s? Y et I c o uld n o t b la m e th em fo r w antin g to h ave th in gs th ey s a w in m agazin es a nd m ovie s, th in gs

th ey a d m ir e d a nd h ad n ever e xp erie nced . H ow c o uld w e d eny th em w hat w e o urs e lv es c o ntin ued to u se ? I s o on g ave th e p in k s lip pers to o ne o f

th e g ir ls w hen s h e g o t e ngaged to b e m arrie d , a nd s h e w as tic k le d to h ave th em .

C hanges w ere a ls o c o m in g b ack h o m e. W hile w e w ere tr u d gin g th ro ugh s n o w sto rm s in s u b ze ro te m pera tu re s h alf w ay a ro und th e w orld , o th ers o f

our g enera tio n w ere fig htin g a nd d yin g a s s o ld ie rs in th e tr o pic al ju ngle s o f V ie tn am . B y th is tim e, th e d ra ft s y ste m h ad e nd ed th e u nfa ir d efe rm ent

fo r c o lle ge s tu d ents a nd v o lu nte ers in c o m munit y s e rv ic e p ro gra m s s u ch a s o urs a nd b egan a lo tte ry s y ste m b ase d o n b ir th d ays th at tr e ate d a ll

yo ung m en e q ually , w heth er o r n o t th ey h ad th e m oney to g o to c o lle ge o r th e c o nnectio ns to fin d d efe rm ents . L uck ily fo r u s, D ic k ’s b ir th d ay d re w

a h ig h n um ber, b ut o th er v o lu nte ers , a lo ng w it h c o lle ge s tu d ents , s u d denly b ecam e e lig ib le fo r th e d ra ft.

W e b ecam e a w are o f th e tu rm oil a t h o m e w hen w e le arn ed th at fo ur s tu d ents w ere s h o t d ead a nd tw o s e vere ly w ound ed b y n atio nal g uard sm en

w ho o pened fir e o n a n a ntiw ar d em onstr a tio n a t K ent S ta te U niv ers it y in O hio . W hat w as h ap penin g in o ur c o untr y ? I n r e cent y ears , M artin L uth er

K in g, J r., a nd J o hn a nd B obby K enned y h ad a ll b een s h o t— and n o w in no cent n o nvio le nt s tu d ents h ad b een s h o t d ead o n a c o lle ge c am pus. W e

w ere s h o ck ed b y th e n ew s. I h ad n o t b een a s o cia l a ctiv is t b efo re jo in in g V IS TA a nd h ad n ever p artic ip ate d in a n a ntiw ar d em onstr a tio n d urin g

m y c o lle ge y ears . I n th e s m all w om en’s c o lle ge I a tte nd ed in a c o nse rv ativ e O hio to w n, n o t m uch d if fe re nt fr o m I n go m ar, th e o nly d em onstr a tio n a t

m y c o lle ge w as to p ro te st a n ew r u le th at w e c o uld n o t p ut o ur fe et u p o n th e c o ffe e ta b le s in th e lib ra ry lo unge. T hat la ck o f a ctiv is m in m y lif e ,

th o ugh, w as a b out to c hange.

T here w ere o th er V IS TA v o lu nte ers , a ls o re cent c o lle ge g ra d uate s, w ho h ad c o m e str a ig ht to A la sk a fr o m le ad ers h ip p osit io ns in u niv ers it y

antiw ar p ro te sts . I f th e g o vern m ent th o ught th at p la cin g a ctiv is ts in r e m ote v illa ges a cro ss A la sk a w ould p ut th em o ut o f c o m mis sio n, th ey g uesse d

w ro ng. B y m ail ( w e h ad n o p ho nes, fa xes, o r e -m ail) th e a ctiv is ts b egan to o rg aniz e a ll th e v o lu nte ers in th e s ta te . I t w as fr o m th em th at I le arn ed

ho w to ta k e a ctio n a b out w hat r e ally m atte re d . L ed b y th e e xp erie nced a ctiv is ts , w e V IS TA v o lu nte ers in A la sk a to ok a s ta nd o n A la sk a’s lo cal

is su es o f th e d ay— opposit io n to th e c o nstr u ctio n o f th e o il p ip elin e a cro ss th e s ta te , s u p port fo r E sk im o la nd c la im s, a nd r e sis ta nce to th e w ar in

V ie tn am . W e a ls o o bje cte d to th e fa ct th at, u nlik e o th er s ta te s, w here th e a d m in is tr a tiv e jo bs o vers e ein g th e V IS TA p ro gra m w ent to lo cal c it iz e ns,

in A la sk a th ey w ent n o t to th e in d ig eno us p eo ple b ut to w hit e m en. W e v o lu nte ers liv in g a m ong th e E sk im os in A la sk a s u ggeste d th at th ese w ell-

payin g jo bs b e g iv en to th e p eo ple in th e c o m munit ie s w e s e rv ed . I n e sse nce, th is m eant w e w ere s u ggestin g th at o ur b osse s b e fir e d . I n ste ad , a ll th e V IS TA v o lu nte ers in A la sk a w ere fir e d .

T he w rit e -u p in th e n ew sp ap er e xp la in ed th at th e V IS TA p ro gra m in A la sk a w as b ein g r e str u ctu re d . S ho rtly b efo re o ur fir in g, th e n ew ly e le cte d

P re sid ent N ix o n a p poin te d a n ew d ir e cto r o f th e U S O ffic e o f E co no m ic O pportu nit y , th e a gency th at o vers a w V IS TA . T he n ew d ir e cto r w as

D onald R um sfe ld . T he n ew sp ap er a rtic le r e p ortin g o n o ur fir in g s a id th at R um sfe ld b elie ved th at V IS TA s h o uld b e a b out p ro vid in g s o cia l s e rv ic es

and n o t a b out s o cia l c hange. I n tim e, I s a w th at m y lif e w ould , in fa ct, b e a b out s o cia l c hange, s o it w as v ery fit tin g th at I w as fir e d fr o m m y fir s t

jo b b y D onald R um sfe ld .

O ur a b ru p t d ep artu re d id n o th in g to c hange h o w m uch I w as in flu enced b y m y tim e in th e v illa ge. T he E sk im os b elie ved in th e a b und ance o f th e

univ ers e — th at th ere is e no ugh fo r a ll if w e a re w illin g to s h are . A s a s o cie ty , th e E sk im os a s I h ad fir s t fo und th em a re s till th e h ap pie st p eo ple I ’v e

ever k no w n— sh o w in g s u ch d elig ht in th e s m alle st th in gs. T hey h ad a s e nse o f th eir p la ce in th e w orld , in th e w eb o f lif e , b ase d o n w ho th ey w ere ,

no t w hat th ey h ad . T heir h ap pin ess a nd s e curit y d id n o t d ep end o n m oney a nd m ate ria l p osse ssio ns, b ut o n c o m munit y a nd th eir r e la tio nsh ip w it h

th e la nd a nd k no w le d ge o f n atu re . D esp it e g re at h ard sh ip s, th ere h ad b een a jo yfu ln ess a m ong th e E sk im os, lo st to s o m any o f u s, a d elig ht in

sim ply b ein g a liv e o n th is b eautif u l p la net. I le arn ed fr o m th em th at a s u sta in ab le e co no m y c o uld b e b ase d o n s h arin g a nd c o opera tio n r a th er th an

on c o m petit io n a nd h o ard in g.

L iv in g in a c ult u re g ro und ed in th e k no w le d ge th at a ll lif e is s p ir it u ally a nd e nvir o nm enta lly in te rc o nnecte d h elp ed m e to r e co gniz e a nd a rtic ula te th is

belie f a nd th en m ak e it th e fo und atio n fo r m y w ork to c o m e, th e w ork th at th is b ook u lt im ate ly is a b out— help in g to b uild a c o m passio nate a nd

carin g e co no m y.

A s a y o ung p ers o n q uestio nin g m y o w n s o cie ty , I b egan to a sk : W hy c o uld n’t w e b uild a n e co no m y th at c o m bin ed m odern te chno lo gy w it h th e

in d ig eno us p hilo so phy o f liv in g c o opera tiv ely w it h p eo ple a nd w it h n atu re ? W it h a ll th at h um ank in d h as a cco m plis h ed , c o uld n’t w e le arn to liv e

in clu siv ely , s im ply , a nd s u sta in ab ly , a nd s till h ave lig hts a nd r e co rd p la yers a vaila b le fo r a ll w ho w is h ed to e njo y th em ?

In la te J u ly 1 970, D ic k a nd I ( a lo ng w it h A ugie ) le ft C hefo rn ak , r id in g o ff in th e m ail p la ne th at h ad fir s t b ro ught u s. A s o ur E sk im o fr ie nd s w aved

go od-b ye fr o m th e s h o re , o ur p la ne r a ttle d a nd r o are d a cro ss th e r iv er a nd u p in to th e b ound le ss b lu e s k y. L ookin g d ow n a t th e tin y v illa ge th at

had b een o ur h o m e fo r te n m onth s, th e s a d ness o ver le avin g w as te m pere d w it h a n e agern ess to s e e o ur fa m ilie s b ack h o m e. B ut b eyo nd th at w e

had n o id ea o f w here lif e w ould ta k e u s n ext. Tell m e, w hat i s i t y o u p la n to d o w ith y o ur o ne w ild a nd p re cio us li fe ?

—Mary O liv er

3

M y F ir s t B usin ess: T he S to ry o f F re e P eo p le ’s

Sto re

R ET U RN IN G

HO M E fr o m C hefo rn ak w as a c ult u re s h o ck . D ic k a nd I h ad n’t s e en a c ar, e ate n fr e nch fr ie s, ta k en a s h o w er, o r s o ak ed in a h o t

bath in te n m onth s. E ven in o ur p eacefu l h o m eto w n o f I n go m ar, lif e s e em ed s o n o is y a nd fa st— and h o t. A ugie h ad to g et u se d to m eetin g s tr a ngers

and c ro ssin g b usy s tr e ets . B ut w e a d ju ste d w it h in w eek s, a nd fo r th e tim e b ein g a ll I h ad le arn ed fr o m th e E sk im os re ced ed to th e b ack o f m y

co nsc io usn ess a s I tu rn ed m y a tte ntio n to w hat w e n eed ed to d o r ig ht a w ay— fin d jo bs.

It d id n’t ta k e u s m uch r if flin g th ro ugh th e h elp -w ante d s e ctio n o f th e

Pit ts b urg h P ost-G aze tte

, a nd a fe w in te rv ie w s

, to re aliz e th at w ork in g fo r

so m eo ne e ls e w asn ’t r ig ht fo r u s. T he o bvio us a nsw er w as to s ta rt o ur o w n b usin ess. B ut w hat? I s u ggeste d w e o pen a r e ta il s to re — th e n ext s te p

afte r s e llin g m erc hand is e fr o m m y w ago n a s a c hild . “ W hat c o uld b e s o h ard a b out r u nnin g a s to re ?” I a sk ed . “ Y ou b uy s o m eth in g a t o ne p ric e a nd

se ll it fo r a h ig her p ric e. I t’s th at s im ple .” T ru e e no ugh, a nd e ven th o ugh w e d id n’t k no w m uch a b out b usin ess, w e d id k no w w hat w as a p pealin g to

our g enera tio n. I th o ught th at s e llin g th in gs w e lik ed to p eo ple o ur a ge— lik e a g enera l s to re fo r th e 1 960s g enera tio n— would b e a fu n id ea. W hat

m ore d id w e n eed to k no w ?

S o ju st a fte r o ur fir s t w ed din g a nniv ers a ry , D ic k a nd I d ro ve a ro und In go m ar lo okin g fo r a lo catio n fo r o ur sto re -to -b e. T he m alls a lo ng th e

su b urb an h ig hw ays h ad b eco m e th e p opula r s h o ppin g a re as, b ut th at d id n o t d o it fo r u s.

S oon a fte r, w e w ere v is it in g c o lle ge fr ie nd s in P hila d elp hia , a nd w e to ld th em o ur id ea fo r th e s to re — se llin g h ip c lo th in g a nd a p artm ent fu rn is h in gs

to th e u nd er- th ir ty c ro w d. ( W e h ad ta k en th e 1 960s tr u is m “ D on’t tr u st a nyo ne o ver th ir ty ” o ne s te p fu rth er— we w ould n o t

se ll

to a nyo ne o ver

th ir ty .) O ur fr ie nd , S co tt B ela ir , w ho w as in g ra d uate s c ho ol a t th e U niv ers it y o f P ennsy lv ania , p oin te d to th e la ck o f s to re s fo r s tu d ents in th e

univ ers it y n eig hb orh o od a nd s u ggeste d th at it w ould b e a g re at lo catio n fo r th e k in d o f s to re w e w ante d to o pen. A s to re in P hila d elp hia — of

co urs e ! It d id n’t ta k e u s lo ng b efo re w e fo und a n a vaila b le s to re fr o nt, o nly a fe w b lo ck s fr o m c am pus. A ll o f a s u d den, w e w ere ju st a b out in

busin ess.

W hile D ic k d ealt w it h th e r e nta l lo gis tic s, I d ro ve th e th re e h und re d m ile s b ack to I n go m ar to p ic k u p o ur fe w b elo ngin gs. I p ack ed o ur s u it c ase s o f

fa d ed je ans a nd T -sh ir ts ; A ugie a nd a n ew m ix ed -b re ed p up py, J e ssic a; a nd tw o w hit e p et d oves a nd a s te re o w it h D ic k ’s c o lle ctio n o f B ob

D yla n a lb um s in to a u se d V olv o s ta tio n w ago n— our w ed din g g if t fr o m D ic k ’s fa th er— and m oved fr o m I n go m ar to o ur n ew h o m e in P hila d elp hia .

W it h o ut fu nd s to r e nt b oth a n a p artm ent a nd a r e ta il s p ace, th e s to re fr o nt a t 4 307 L ocust S tr e et in W est P hila d elp hia b ecam e b oth o ur b usin ess

and h o m e, th o ugh w e h ad to g o to S co tt’ s a p artm ent to ta k e s h o w ers .

T he n eig hb orh o ods to th e w est o f th e u niv ers it y w here w e n o w liv ed o ffe re d m odest re nts a nd h o usin g p ric es, a nd re sid ents w ere a m ix tu re o f

stu d ents , fa cult y , a nd p ro gre ssiv e in te lle ctu als a lo ng w it h m id dle - a nd w ork in g-c la ss w hit e a nd A fr ic an A meric an fa m ilie s. O ur b lo ck h ad s e vera l

sh o ps, in clu d in g a p opula r J e w is h d eli c alle d K och’s , a L aund ro m at, a nd a n A cm e g ro cery s to re a cro ss th e s tr e et th at w as fr e q uente d b y r e sid ents

fr o m o ur n eig hb orh o od, a s w ell a s p eo ple liv in g fa rth er to th e w est a nd n o rth w here th ere w as lit tle a ccess to fr e sh g ro cerie s. T ho ugh w e w ere

obliv io us to it a t th e tim e, th e p overty ra te ro se d ra m atic ally to w ard th e w est, n o rth , a nd so uth w est o f o ur b lo ck . L eavin g b ehin d th e sta te ly

V ic to ria n h o use s s u rro und in g th e c am pus in w hat w as o nce a n e le gant s u b urb o f P hila d elp hia , th e n eig hb orh o ods b ecam e in cre asin gly d ila p id ate d

w it h e m pty lo ts , tr a sh -str e w n s tr e ets , a nd b oard ed -u p h o use s d ese rte d b y th o se lu re d to th e n ew h o usin g d evelo pm ents in th e b oom in g s u b urb s.

T hen th ese n eig hb orh o ods w ere r e d lin ed b y b ank s u nw illin g to g iv e m ortg ages to A fr ic an A meric ans.

T he V ie tn am W ar w as w in d in g d ow n, b ut it h ad g re atly in flu enced o ur v ie w s n o t o nly o f g o vern m ent b ut a ls o o f b usin ess. W e h ad c o m e a cro ss

P re sid ent E is e nho w er’s in fa m ous w arn in g, is su ed n early a d ecad e e arlie r, a b out th e d angers o f th e m ilit a ry -in d ustr ia l c o m ple x a nd th e u nd ue

in flu ence it c o uld e xert o ver p olit ic s. I w as a w ak enin g to th e fa ct th at c o rp ora tio ns c o uld w ie ld th eir p ow ers in w ays th at th re ate ned o ur fr e ed om

and o ur d em ocra cy, a nd I b la m ed c o rp ora te in te re sts fo r th e w ar. D ic k a nd I d is tr u ste d a ll p ro fit - m ak in g b usin ess. T he p ro fit - a t- a ny-c o st v alu e

sy ste m o f c o rp ora te A meric a w asn ’t u s. W e d ecid ed th at o ur b usin ess w ould b e d if fe re nt— w e w ould o pera te lik e a n o np ro fit . B y th at w e s im ply

m eant w e p la nned to m ak e ju st e no ugh to e arn a liv in g, b ut n o t m ore th an w e n eed ed . T ho ugh m y u nd ers ta nd in g o f p ro fit a nd m y c o ncep t o f h o w

m uch it ta k es to “ ju st m ak e a liv in g” h ave c hanged in d if fe re nt s ta ges o f m y lif e , I c o ntin ue to b elie ve, a s I d id a t th e id ealis tic s ta rt o f it a ll, th at w e

sh o uld c o nsta ntly c halle nge o urs e lv es a nd o ur b usin ess a nd o ur s o cie ty w it h th e q uestio n, “ H ow m uch is e no ugh?”

W e w ante d to g iv e th e s to re a n am e th at e xp re sse d o ur a ntiw ar, a ntie sta b lis h m ent v alu es a nd d ecid ed o n “ F re e P eo ple ’s S to re .” W e w ere a ctin g

as “ fr e e p eo ple ” in a t le ast tw o im porta nt w ays— by o pposin g o ur g o vern m ent’s w ar in V ie tn am a nd b y c re atin g a b usin ess th at w as a n a lt e rn ativ e

to th e d om in ant c o rp ora te m odel. W e w ere s u re th e s to re w ould a ttr a ct o th er fr e eth in k in g p eo ple w ho s h are d o ur o utlo ok.

D ic k c ut a p ie ce o f p ly w ood in th e s h ap e o f a d ove, a nd w e le tte re d it w it h “ F re e P eo ple ’s S to re ” a nd h ung it o ut fr o nt. W it h n o m erc hand is e to dis p la y, w e tu rn ed th e fr o nt w in d ow in to o ne h uge b ir d cage fo r o ur p et d oves, w it h tr e e b ra nches a nd a b ir d -b ath . A s th e w ar c o ntin ued to ta k e

liv es in V ie tn am , th e d ove, s y m bol o f p eace, b ecam e o ur lo go a nd m asc o t. E ven b efo re w e o pened th e d oors o r h ad a nyth in g to s e ll, o ur fir s t

busin ess c le arly e xp re sse d o ur v alu es.

W e s ta rte d F re e P eo ple ’s S to re w it h w hat w e h ad — our in genuit y a nd th e th re e th o usa nd d olla rs th at w as o ur c o m bin ed s tip end s fr o m V IS TA .

O ur r e nt a nd liv in g e xp ense s d urin g th e tw o-m onth tr a nsit io n b etw een A la sk a a nd s e ttin g u p lif e in P hila d elp hia h ad u se d u p a ny o th er s a vin gs w e

had . D ete rm in ed to g et th e b usin ess o pen a nd m oney flo w in g w it h o ut ta k in g o ut a lo an, w hic h w e w ould n o t q ualif y fo r, w e h ad to fin d e very

possib le w ay to c ut s ta rt- u p c o sts . W it h a n e m pty s to re to fu rn is h , w e s e t o ut to fo ra ge o n g arb age d ays, w hen tr a sh w as s e t o ut o n th e c urb fo r

pic k up . W e p artic ula rly s e arc hed th e s tr e ets in P hila d elp hia ’s C hin ato w n fo r d is c ard ed w ooden c ra te s u se d fo r s h ip pin g g o ods fr o m C hin a to th e

lo cal s to re s. I p ut m y fo rt- b uild in g s k ills to u se , c o nstr u ctin g s h elv in g b y h am merin g th e c ra te s to geth er a nd a rra ngin g th em lik e s ta ggere d b uild in g

blo ck s a cro ss th e w all. I le ft s o m e in th e n atu ra l w ood s till s ta m ped w it h C hin ese le tte rin g, a nd p ain te d o th ers in b rig ht o ra nge, y ello w , a nd b lu e.

D ic k fo und a no th er u se fo r th e c ra te s: m ounte d o n s a w ho rs e s, th ey w ere ju st th e r ig ht s iz e fo r r e co rd b in s. H e a ls o s a lv aged a la rg e w ooden s p ool

use d to s to re e le ctr ic c ab le a nd p ut it in th e m id dle o f th e ro om to d is p la y s ta ck s o f T -sh ir ts . I p ain te d th e w alls o f th e s to re in s w ir lin g s u p er

gra p hic s lik e a g ia nt p ais le y. (A c o up le o f y ears la te r, I u se d m y su p er g ra p hic s ta le nt to d eco ra te P hila d elp hia ’s “M cG overn fo r P re sid ent”

head quarte rs , a nd w e h ung a p oste r in o ur s to re a nno uncin g th at w it h e very p urc hase fr o m F re e P eo ple ’s S to re , w e w ould m ak e a c o ntr ib utio n

to w ard th e e le ctio n o f th e a ntiw ar c and id ate , G eo rg e M cG overn .)

A t la st, th e s to re w as r e ad y fo r s o m e m erc hand is e . D ic k a nd I to ok a s m uch c ash a s w e c o uld s p are a nd d ro ve to N ew Y ork C it y . W e h ad n ever

heard o f g if t s h o w s o r s h o w ro om s ( th at w ould c o m e la te r), n o r w ould it h ave d one u s a ny g o od if w e h ad s in ce w e c o uld n’t a ffo rd th e m in im um

purc hase s n ecessa ry to o pen v end or a cco unts . A rriv in g in M anhatta n, w e p ark ed a s so on a s w e sa w a n e m pty p ho ne b ooth a nd lo oked u p

Im porte rs

in th e Y ello w P ages, fig urin g th at im ports w ould b e c heap est. N otic in g th at m any im porte rs w ere lo cate d in th e s a m e a re a o n lo w er

B ro ad w ay, w e d ro ve s tr a ig ht th ere .

C lim bin g sta ir s to th ir d - a nd fo urth -flo or o ffic es c ra m med fu ll o f g o ods fr o m fa ra w ay p la ces, w e e xp lo re d th is e xcit in g n ew w orld o f b uyin g

w ho le sa le . I h ad n o c o nsc io usn ess th en a b out “ fa ir tr a d e.” I d id n’t s to p to th in k a b out w ho m ad e th e p ro ducts a nd w heth er th ey w ere p aid fa ir

w ages o r if th e p ro ductio n p ro cess w as h ealt h y to w ork ers a nd th e e nvir o nm ent. If I h ad s to pped to th in k a b out it a ll, I p ro bab ly w ould h ave

th o ught w e w ere h elp in g p eo ple in le ss-d evelo ped c o untr ie s b y b uyin g th eir g o ods, r a th er th an u nd ers ta nd in g th at w e m ay h ave b een s u p portin g a

sy ste m th at e nric hed fa cto ry o w ners w hile e xp lo it in g w ork ers .

W e lo ad ed th e s ta tio n w ago n to th e b rim w it h a c arg o o f m ad ra s b ed sp re ad s, lo ng p rin t s k ir ts , c arv ed w ooden b oxes, a nd b arre tte s fr o m I n d ia ;

dangly e arrin gs, b lo ck p rin ts , a nd th ro w r u gs fr o m T haila nd ; b ead s a nd in cense fr o m P ak is ta n; w oven fa ns, b ask ets , a nd le ath er n eck w alle ts fr o m

A fr ic a; a nd h and -b lo w n g la sse s, p otte ry , w oven s h o uld er b ags, a nd p easa nt b lo use s fr o m M exic o — all it e m s th at w e fe lt w ould a p peal to o ur

1960s g enera tio n.

B ack in P hilly , w e fo und s o urc es fo r b ooks lik e

Die t fo r a S m all P la net

by F ra nces M oore L ap pé a nd

Be H ere N ow

by R am D ass; T -sh ir ts ;

je ans; re co rd s b y B ob D yla n, T he R ollin g S to nes, a nd J a m es B ro w n; a nd h o use p la nts th at w e d is p la yed w it h a c o rn y s ig n th at s a id B rin g s o m e

L IF E in to y o ur a p artm ent. F ro m lo cal c ra fts p eo ple w e b ought h and -d ip ped c and le s, m acra m é b elt s , a nd w ooden k it c hen u te nsils . P ap er la nte rn s

and te a s e ts c am e fr o m C hin ato w n. A n o ld g la ss d is p la y c ase s e rv ed a s a c o unte r, w hic h w e fille d w it h je w elr y a lo ng w it h a s m all s u p ply o f r o llin g

pap ers a nd p ip es— th o ugh d esp it e o ur ta tte re d je ans a nd lo ng h air D ic k a nd I w ere p re tty m uch s m all to w n s tr a ig ht a rro w s w hen it c am e to p ot.

N ext to th e c o unte r w e p ut a s e co nd hand o ld -fa sh io ned c ash r e gis te r, a nd n earb y w e p la ced a b ig o ld r e d s o fa w here c usto m ers s a t a nd ta lk ed

w it h u s w hile w e w ork ed b ehin d th e c o unte r. T his a re a s e rv ed a s o ur liv in g r o om , w here w e s p ent m ost o f o ur tim e, s in ce th e s m all r o om th ro ugh

th e b ack d oor o f th e s to re w here w e s le p t w as n o t b ig e no ugh to e nte rta in g uests .

F in ally , in O cto ber o f 1 970, w e h ad e no ugh m erc hand is e to m ak e a g o o f it a nd o pened th e d oor o f F re e P eo ple ’s S to re fo r b usin ess. W e b are ly

had e no ugh m erc hand is e to c o ver th e s h elv es, b ut a s w e to ok in c ash , w e im med ia te ly b ought m ore , g ra d ually fillin g th e s to re to th e b rim . S o th at

no o ne w ould h ave to le ave th e s to re e m pty -h and ed fo r la ck o f m oney, w e c re ate d a “ F re e B in ” fu ll o f o ld c lo th es d is c ard ed b y c o lle ge s tu d ents .

I q uic k ly b ecam e c o m fo rta b le w it h th e u nexp ecte d n atu re o f c it y lif e . A fr e q uent F re e B in “ sh o pper” w as a n eig hb orh o od b ag la d y w ho q uack ed

unco ntr o lla b ly w hile fla p pin g h er a rm s lik e w in gs w hen s h e w ante d to “ sa y” s o m eth in g. M y in it ia l e nco unte r c am e o n o ne o f m y fir s t m orn in gs in

P hila d elp hia w hen I w as h avin g b re ak fa st a t th e c o rn er d in er. S it tin g a cro ss fr o m m e a t a lo ng ta b le fu ll o f c usto m ers , th e p ers o n I c am e to k no w a s

D uck W om an s u d denly p ut b oth h and s in to h er fr ie d e ggs a nd s m eare d th em a ro und o n h er p la te a nd a ll o ver th e ta b le w hile q uack in g. A mazin gly ,

no o ne e ls e a t th e ta b le p aid a ny a tte ntio n, c o ntin uin g to e at b re ak fa st. I t w as ju st D uck W om an d oin g h er th in g, I le arn ed , a nd I w ould g et u se d to

her. W eek s la te r D uck W om an w as tr y in g o n c lo th es fr o m th e F re e B in w hen s h e g o t s tu ck w it h a d re ss o ver h er h ead in o ur tin y d re ssin g r o om . I

w ent to h elp h er, a nd fr a ntic ally s tr u ggle d to p ull d ow n h er d re ss, a lm ost o verc o m e b y h er b ody o dor a s s h e th ra sh ed a gain st th e w alls , q uack in g

lo ud ly . L if e in th e c it y w as s u re d if fe re nt fr o m I n go m ar. I w as fa sc in ate d to s e e w ho w ould c o m e th ro ugh th e d oor n ext.

O ur fr ie nd , S co tt, n o w a W harto n b usin ess s c ho ol s tu d ent, m ad e a n in vestm ent in th e b usin ess a nd b ecam e o ur p artn er. H e h elp ed c o ok u p id eas

lik e h avin g a lo ss le ad er— in o ur c ase , p opula r r e co rd a lb um s th at w e s o ld a ro und c o st a t $ 2.7 5 to d ra w c usto m ers to th e s to re , h o pin g th ey w ould

buy m ore w hen th ey c am e in sid e. W e b egan to s tr e tc h o ur d olla rs b y b uyin g in exp ensiv e m erc hand is e a nd fin d in g c re ativ e w ays to g et a h ig h

m ark up . F ro m o ur T -sh ir t w ho le sa le r, w e b ought lo ng w hit e u nd erw ear a nd u nd erw ear to ps w it h th re e b utto ns a t th e n eck . I w ent a cro ss th e s tr e et

to th e A cm e m ark et fo r fa b ric d ye a nd a p la stic g arb age c an a nd w ent a b out d yein g th e u nd erw ear b rig ht c o lo rs , s tir rin g th e h o t c auld ro n w it h a

m op h and le . T he to ps c o st u s a ro und a d olla r a p ie ce, a nd a fte r d yein g w e s o ld th em fo r s ix d olla rs . I h ung o ne p air o f lo ng jo hns I h ad d yed b rig ht

pin k in th e w in d ow o f th e fr o nt d oor, u nb utto ned th e r e ar fla p , a nd h ung o ur o pen s ig n th ere . A t c lo sin g tim e, I b utto ned th e fla p a nd flip ped th e

sig n to

CLO SED

.

V in ta ge c lo th in g p ro vid ed a no th er b ig m ark up . D ic k fo und a d eale r w ho s o ld u se d c lo th es b y th e p ound . U su ally th e o w ner s o ld th e c lo th es in v ery la rg e q uantit ie s, o fte n b y th e to n, to b e s h ip ped o vers e as. B ut h e to ok a lik in g to u s a nd g ave u s th e lib erty to p ic k th ro ugh th e o ld c lo th es to fin d

cho ic e it e m s. I r e m em ber c lim bin g in to h uge b in s in h is w are ho use fille d tw elv e to fif te en fe et h ig h w it h u se d c lo th es. D ic k a nd I s a t o n th e m ound s

of c lo th in g, d ig gin g th ro ugh m any u se le ss it e m s. W e w ere o n a tr e asu re h unt to fin d th e o ccasio nal o ld v elv et d re ss, s ilk s lip , fu r c o at, o r le ath er

ja ck et th at c o uld b rin g a h ig h p ric e in th e s to re . W e b ought th ese a t a fe w d olla rs a p ound a nd s o ld th em fo r tw enty -fiv e to fif ty d olla rs a p ie ce. T his

m ore th an m ad e u p fo r th e lo ss-le ad er r e co rd s a le s.

S om e o f th o se o ld d re sse s a nd ja ck ets b ecam e m y p ers o nal fa vo rit e s, e sp ecia lly a n o ld le ath er p ilo t ja ck et w it h a h id den in sid e b re ast p ock et th at

pro ved h elp fu l. A s s o on a s w e s o ld e no ugh m erc hand is e , D ic k h and ed m e o ne th o usa nd d olla rs in c ash , w hic h I s ta sh ed in th at h id den p ock et

befo re h ead in g b ack to N ew Y ork C it y to b uy m ore m erc hand is e . A fte r th e fir s t tr ip , I d id m ost o f th e N ew Y ork b uyin g o f in te rn atio nal c ra fts a nd

oth er im ports a nd a ls o b ought lo cally m ad e c ra fts a nd d id th e d eco ra tin g a nd d is p la y, w hile D ic k p urc hase d m ost o f th e c lo th es, r e co rd s, b ooks,

and p la nts a nd — wit h s o m e a ssis ta nce fr o m S co tt— hand le d th e fin ancia l a ffa ir s .

In th e b egin nin g w e c o uld n’t b uy o ur je ans fr o m a b ig b ra nd n am e c o m pany lik e L evi S tr a uss & C o. b ecause w e c o uld n’t m ak e th e m in im um

ord er. A ll w e c o uld a ffo rd w as to b uy th re e p air s in th re e s iz e s fr o m a le sse r- k no w n b ra nd . O nce w e s p lu rg ed a nd b ought th re e p air s o f p urp le

velv et b ell- b otto m je ans, a b ig in vestm ent fo r u s. T hey w ere th e m ost e xp ensiv e it e m s in th e s to re , a nd w e w ere e ager to s e ll th em s o w e c o uld b uy

six m ore p air s , th en tw elv e, a nd s o o n.

T he p urp le v elv et je ans le d to s o m eth in g w e h ad n’t y et th o ught a b out. O ne d ay w hen I w as in th e s to re a lo ne, a g ro up o f te n o r tw elv e h ig h s c ho ol

gir ls d esc end ed o n th e s to re a ll a t o nce. I w as tr y in g d esp era te ly to k eep m y e yes o n e ach o f th em a s th ey a sk ed m e q uestio ns to d ra w m e to

dif fe re nt p arts o f th e s to re . S ud denly th ey a ll le ft a s th ey c am e, a t o nce, a nd I n o tic ed w it h d is m ay, a s th ey h urrie d o ut th e d oor, th at o ne o f th e g ir ls

w as w earin g a p air o f th e p urp le v elv et je ans!

“S to p, th ey’re m y je ans!” I c rie d o ut, a nd th ey to ok o ff r u nnin g. I lo ck ed th e d oor a nd g ave c hase . U p th e s tr e et a nd a ro und th e c o rn er w e w ent,

dodgin g tr a ffic a cro ss a b usy th o ro ughfa re . I w as g ain in g g ro und , a nd a s th e g ro up r e ached th e p ark in g lo t o f th e s u p erm ark et a t th e c o rn er o f 4 4th

and W aln ut, I lu nged a nd ta ck le d th e c ulp rit to th e g ro und . W it h o ut th in k in g, I u nzip ped th e je ans a nd y ank ed th em o ff h er. A s s h e la y o n th e

sid ew alk in h er u nd erp ants s c re am in g, I r a n b ack to th e s to re a nd tr iu m phantly r e tu rn ed o ur p urp le v elv et je ans to th e s h elf . I w as d ete rm in ed th at

w e w ould s e ll th at p air , a nd m ore a nd m ore a nd m ore u ntil s o m ed ay L evi S tr a uss & C o. w ould b e v ery g la d to s e ll to u s.

M eanw hile , m y ta ck le d id n’t s to p u nw ante d v is it o rs . N ot lo ng a fte r th e je ans e p is o de, w hen I w as a lo ne in th e s to re a gain , a te enage b oy w alk ed

out w it h h is s h ir t lo okin g s u sp ic io usly b ulk y. “ W hat d o y o u h ave o n th ere ?” I a sk ed , a nd h e s u d denly r a ced d ow n th e s tr e et. I h ad le arn ed to w ear

sn eak ers w hen w ork in g in th e s to re , a nd I r a ced a fte r h im . A t tw enty -th re e, I w as in g re at s h ap e— but c o uld I c atc h a fo urte en-y ear- o ld b oy? H e

ra n in to a b ack a lle y w it h m e s p eed in g b ehin d , a nd le ap ed o ver a fe nce. I d id w hat h e d id , o nly to fin d th at h e w as c o rn ere d a gain st th e b ack o f a

build in g. H e h ad a k nif e in h is h and , a nd w e s to od fa cin g e ach o th er, b oth o f u s g asp in g fo r b re ath .

“Ju st g iv e m e b ack m y s h ir ts ,” I s a id a s c alm ly a s p ossib le . W e s ta re d a t e ach o th er fo r w hat s e em ed lik e a fu ll m in ute . A t la st h e th re w d ow n th e

knif e , a nd b egan r e m ovin g h is s h ir t, a nd th en a no th er, a nd a no th er. I c o uld n o t b elie ve th e n um ber o f s h ir ts h e h ad s to le n a s h e d ro pped o ne a fte r

ano th er o nto a p ile o n th e g ro und . F in ally h e s to od b are -c heste d . “ T hank y o u,” I s a id , s c o opin g u p th e s h ir ts a nd r a cin g fo r h o m e.

I s till h ad n’t le arn ed th e o bvio us. O ne e venin g, a s I w as a gain w ork in g th e s to re a lo ne, I n o tic ed a m an s p end in g a lo ng tim e lo okin g a t o ur r e co rd

co lle ctio n. W hen a no th er c usto m er I w as w ait in g o n le ft th e s to re , th e m an fo llo w ed c lo se b ehin d w it h a s u sp ic io us-lo okin g b ulg e u nd er h is ja ck et.

I c o uld n’t b e s u re e no ugh to a ccuse h im , s o I lo ck ed th e s to re a nd c autio usly fo llo w ed a s h e w alk ed u p th e s tr e et, h o pin g th at if h e h ad s to le n th e

re co rd s, I m ig ht s e e h im ta k e th em o ut o f h is ja ck et. I c o ntin ued fo llo w in g a t a b lo ck ’s d is ta nce b ehin d , c are fu l th at h e n o t s e e m e. B lo ck a fte r

blo ck w e w ent, m ovin g w estw ard d eep in to a n u nfa m ilia r n eig hb orh o od. I t w as n ig ht, a nd I w as a lo ne, b ut I w as to o a ngry a nd to o in te nt o n m y

eco no m ic s u rv iv al to th in k a b out th e p ossib le d anger. A t la st h e tu rn ed u p th e p orc h s te p s o f a r o w h o use , a nd I c am e c lo se r to w atc h h im fr o m th e

sid ew alk . H e o pened h is ja ck et a nd p ulle d o ut a b ig s ta ck o f r e co rd s. I h eard m yse lf s c re am a t th e to p o f m y lu ngs, “

Giv e m e b ack m y r e co rd s!

”

H e lo oked d ow n a t m e fr o m h is p orc h w it h c o m ple te a sto nis h m ent a nd s a id , “ H ere , la d y,” h o ld in g th e r e co rd s o ut to m e. I le ap ed u p th e s te p s,

gra b bed th e r e co rd s, a nd r a n fo r h o m e a s fa st a s I c o uld .

I r e tu rn ed m y p riz e d r e co rd s to th eir b in s, p ond erin g th is la te st e p is o de in m y n ew lif e in u rb an A meric a. I w as b egin nin g to r e aliz e th at h avin g a

sto re s h o w ed th at w e h ad m ore m oney th an m any o f th o se in th e lo w -in co m e n eig hb orh o ods a ro und u s. W e w ere fa ir g am e. U ntil n o w , e xcep t fo r

th e E sk im o v illa ge, I h ad liv ed w it h p eo ple in th e s a m e g enera l e co no m ic b ra ck et a s m y o w n fa m ily . I w as b egin nin g to e xp erie nce a n ew r e alit y .

Y ou w ould th in k b y th at tim e w e w ould h ave fig ure d o ut th at w e a lw ays n eed ed to h ave tw o p eo ple w ork in g a t a tim e. B ut th ere w as ju st to o

m uch w ork fo r e ach o f u s to d o to h ave b oth o f u s in th e s to re a ll th e tim e, a nd w e c o uld n’t a ffo rd to h ir e e m plo yees to p ro vid e a s e co nd p ers o n.

S co tt w as in s c ho ol fu ll tim e, a nd D ic k w as o fte n o ut p ic k in g u p m erc hand is e o r o ver a t S co tt’ s a p artm ent in th e e venin g ta lk in g a b out th e b usin ess.

S co tt’s g ir lf r ie nd , M ary , a nd a fr ie nd n am ed B arb ara h elp ed u s te nd th e s to re o n o ccasio n, b ut I s till o fte n w ork ed a lo ne a nd c o ntin ued to th in k

no th in g o f it . I th o ught I c o uld h and le a nyth in g. I h ad s o fa r, h ad n’t I ?

T he s h o plif tin g e ffo rts s o fa r h ad b een a k in d o f h ig h-v o lt a ge g am e, w it h m e te arin g d ow n th e s tr e ets to c o rn er th e c ulp rit s . T he n ext in cid ent w as

m ore s e rio us. O ne a fte rn o on, w hile I w as a lo ne in th e s to re a s u su al, tw o y o ung m en c am e in . O ne o f th em c alle d m e o ver to a sk th e p ric e o f a n

it e m o n a b otto m s h elf to w ard th e b ack o f th e s to re . A s I b ent d ow n to c heck , a n a rm c am e a ro und m y n eck , y ank in g m e u p . F ro m th e c o rn er o f

m y e ye, I s a w h is a cco m plic e e m pty in g th e c ash b ox b ehin d th e c o unte r.

“D on’t m ak e a s o und ,” m y a ssa ila nt s a id r o ughly . H e h eld a la rg e k nif e to m y th ro at. “ W hat’ s th ro ugh th at d oor? ”

“T he b ase m ent.”

“O pen th e d oor,” h e d em and ed a s h e p ush ed m e to w ard it . I d id a s h e a sk ed , a nd h e s h o ved m e th ro ugh th e d oor a nd lo ck ed it b ehin d m e. S tu m blin g d ow n th e s te p s, I r e gain ed m y fo otin g a nd r a n a cro ss th e b ase m ent, w here I flip ped o pen th e h in ged m eta l d oor le ad in g to th e s id ew alk

and c lim bed o ut. I s p otte d th e r o bbers w alk in g d ow n th e s tr e et a nd fo llo w ed th em . I r e aliz e d I c o uld n’t r u n u p to th em — at le ast o ne o f th em h ad a

knif e — so I w alk ed a s a fe d is ta nce b ehin d , p oin tin g a t th em a nd y ellin g to e very p asse rb y, “ T ho se m en ju st r o bbed m y s to re ! C all th e p olic e!”

T he tw o o f th em c o ntin ued to w alk n o nchala ntly a lo ng, a s th o ugh th ey w ere c o m ple te ly in no cent a nd h ad n o th in g to d o w it h m e. W ould a nyo ne

ta k e m e s e rio usly , o r w as I s e en a s ju st a no th er c ra zy D uck W om an?

T hen a p olic e c ar c am e a lo ng, a nd th e tw o m en to ok o ff r u nnin g in o pposit e d ir e ctio ns. T he o ffic er w as a b le to c atc h o ne o f th em , th e o ne w ho

held th e k nif e to m y th ro at, b ut u nfo rtu nate ly h e w as n o t th e o ne w it h th e c ash . W e h ad lo st m ore th an o ne h und re d d olla rs , a lo t o f m oney to u s.

W hen th e m an c am e to tr ia l, I fe lt c o nflic te d . I w as a p ro gre ssiv e c hild o f th e tim es, a nd I h ad n o fa it h in th e d ehum aniz in g c rim in al ju stic e s y ste m

th at I h ad s tu d ie d a nd re ad a b out in c o lle ge. I d ecid ed th at s e nd in g th e o ffe nd er to ja il c o uld tu rn a y o ung m an w it h p ro ble m s in to a h ard ened

crim in al. A fte r p ris o n, I s u rm is e d , th e lif e o f th e n ext v ic tim m ig ht e nd w it h a s la sh ed th ro at. I d id n’t th in k o f a no th er p ossib ilit y : th at if th e y o ung

m an d id n’t g o to ja il, h e m ig ht fe el e m bold ened a nd ta k e h is k nif e to r o b a gain , m ayb e th is tim e d ra w in g b lo od.

A t th e tr ia l, I w ent o ver to th e d efe nd ant’s m oth er a nd to ld h er I d id n o t w ant to c ause h er s o n to g o to p ris o n. I e xp la in ed w hat h ad h ap pened —

th at h e h ad h eld a k nif e to m y th ro at a nd s to le n m y m oney a nd th at I h o ped h e w ould s tr a ig hte n o ut if I g ave h im th is b re ak . W hen th e ju d ge a sk ed

m e if th e m an w ho c o m mit te d th e c rim e w as in th e r o om , I s a id I w asn ’t s u re , a nd h e w as s e t fr e e. I t w as n o t th e p erfe ct s o lu tio n, w hic h w ould

have b een fo und in a c o m munit y -b ase d s y ste m c o m mit te d to re hab ilit a tio n, o ne th at w ould h ave h elp ed h im d eep en h is h um anit y , n o t d estr o y it .

B ut a s fa r a s I w as c o ncern ed , it w as th e b ette r o f th e tw o c ho ic es I h ad — pris o n a s it w as o r n o p ris o n.

T he im pact o f th is e xp erie nce, w hic h g ave m e th e c ap acit y to s e nd s o m eo ne to p ris o n, s ta yed w it h m e fo r a lo ng tim e. I t w as o ne r e aso n th at y ears

la te r, w hen I w as d evelo pin g e d ucatio nal p ro gra m s a t th e W hit e D og C afé , I s p onso re d to urs to p ris o ns, h ir e d p eo ple c o m in g o ut o f ja il, b ro ught in

sp eak ers to le ctu re o n r e sto ra tiv e ju stic e, a nd in vit e d e xo ffe nd ers to te ll th eir s to rie s.

A s I s o on d is c o vere d , b ein g th e v ic tim in th e a sso rte d e ffo rts to r o b F re e P eo ple ’s S to re h ad a ls o in sta lle d in m e a n e le m ent o f p re ju d ic e th at I h ad

no t y et b een a w are o f. I w as w alk in g a lo ng o n a s id ew alk o ne d ay w hen a c ar ju m ped th e c urb ju st in fr o nt o f m e. T he d riv er h o pped o ut y ellin g,

“S to p, th ie f! ” A head I s a w a y o ung b la ck m an r u nnin g, a nd I im med ia te ly c hase d a fte r h im , a ssu m in g th at h e w as th e th ie f. D ow n th e s id ew alk a nd

aro und th e c o rn er I r a n, b ut s u d denly I s to pped in m y tr a ck s a nd , to m y a m aze m ent, b urs t in to te ars . I w ent h o m e, s o bbin g a ll th e w ay. I th re w

m yse lf o n th e b ed a nd c o uld n’t s to p c ry in g. W hat h ad c o m e o ver m e? W hy w as I s o te rrib ly u p se t? I fe lt lik e a r a cis t b ecause I h ad im med ia te ly

belie ved th e d riv er o f th e c ar— a w hit e m an— and s ta rte d c hasin g th e b la ck m an w it h o ut q uestio nin g w ho w as r ig ht.

I h ad g ro w n u p in a s h elt e re d a ll- w hit e w orld w here I h ad e nco unte re d o nly a fe w b la ck p eo ple in m y e ntir e y o uth . N ow I h ad b een e xp erie ncin g

crim e fo r th e fir s t tim e, a nd a ll th e p erp etr a to rs h ap pened to b e b la ck . H ad m y e xp erie nces m ad e m e p re ju d ic ed ? I fe lt te rrib le , a s th o ugh g rie vin g

over a lo ss. B ut w hat lo ss?

F in ally , I c am e to u nd ers ta nd m y g rie f. I n th is u rb an n eig hb orh o od w here I n o w liv ed , it w as in d eed m ore lik ely th at a b la ck y o uth w ould b e p oorly

ed ucate d , ra is e d in p overty , a v ic tim o f v io le nce a nd th eft, jo ble ss, a nd — yes— th ere fo re m ore lik ely to c o m mit a s tr e et c rim e th an th e a vera ge

w hit e w ho liv ed h ere . T his w as h eartb re ak in gly sa d to m e. I w as g rie vin g fo r th e id eal A meric a th at I w as g ra d ually lo sin g— a c o untr y I h ad

belie ved in a s a c hild , o ne th at w as b ase d o n p rin cip le s o f e q ualit y a nd fa ir n ess, w here a ll c hild re n w ere g iv en a q ualit y e d ucatio n, a sa fe

envir o nm ent, d ecent h o usin g, m ed ic al c are , a nd a p ath w ay to w ard s u ccessfu l c are ers . I n o w s a w , in m y o w n n aïv e b ut h eartfe lt w ay, th at th e

ric hest, m ost p ow erfu l c o untr y in th e w orld — a c o untr y I lo ved a nd b elie ved in — had fa ile d to a chie ve it s id eals a nd th at, a s a s o cie ty , w e a ll

su ffe re d fo r it . I lo nged to h elp b uild a m ore e q uit a b le s o cie ty , a nd I b elie ved , a s th e E sk im os h ad s h o w n, th at o ne’s s u rv iv al d ep end ed o n th e w ell-

bein g o f e very o ne in th e c o m munit y .

D esp it e th e c halle nges, I e njo yed liv in g in th e c it y . G ro w in g u p , I h ad a lw ays y earn ed fo r m ore e xcit e m ent a nd d iv ers it y , a nd n o w I w as fa sc in ate d

by th e v arie ty o f p eo ple a nd c ult u re s a ro und m e a nd b y th e m any c ho ic es o f th in gs to d o. I th riv ed o n th e fa st p ace, th e fe elin g o f n ever k no w in g

w hat I w ould fin d a ro und th e n ext c o rn er, a nd p erh ap s m ost o f a ll, th e a ctiv is m c o ncern in g is su es im porta nt to m e— peace, c iv il rig hts , a nd

eco no m ic ju stic e. W e d id n’t ta lk m uch a b out th ese is su es b ack in I n go m ar. L iv in g in a s m all s u b urb an to w n s e p ara te d it s o ccup ants n o t o nly fr o m

th e ric hness o f a d iv ers e c o m munit y , b ut to o o fte n fr o m a ctiv e e ngagem ent in b uild in g a b ette r s o cie ty . N ow , h ere I w as in P hila d elp hia . W hat

co uld I d o to s u p port a ll th e m any in sp ir in g p ro gre ssiv e a ctiv it ie s g o in g o n in m y n ew h o m e c it y ?

A n id ea s o on b egan to fo rm . O ur s to re h ad b eco m e a p opula r h ango ut, lik e th e fo rts I o nce b uilt in th e w oods. T he r e d s o fa b y th e c ash r e gis te r

w as a lw ays fu ll o f p eo ple w hen it w asn ’t m ono poliz e d b y o ur d ogs. J u st a s I fir s t im agin ed th e m ix o f o ur m erc hand is e to b e lik e a g enera l s to re fo r

peo ple o ur a ge, s o to o w e c ult iv ate d a n o ld -tim e g enera l s to re a tm osp here — a p la ce w here p eo ple s to pped to d is c uss th e is su es o f th e d ay. W e

had a b ulle tin b oard b y th e d oor w here n o tic es w ere h ung a b out a p eace m arc h, a c o -o p fo rm in g, o r fr e e c la sse s, a nd w e s a w h o w o ur s to re h ad

beco m e a p la ce to s h are in fo rm atio n. In a s m all to w n lik e In go m ar, e very o ne k new w hat w as g o in g o n, b ut in a c it y th e s iz e o f P hila d elp hia , s o

m uch w as h ap penin g th at th ere n eed ed to b e a v ehic le fo r b ette r c o m munic atin g h o w to g et in vo lv ed , h o w to fin d r e so urc es a nd s e rv ic es, h o w to

so lv e a p ro ble m , h o w to w ork to geth er to b rin g c hange. ( R em em ber, th is w as d ecad es b efo re th e I n te rn et.)

D ic k a nd I h ad s e en a p ub lic atio n fr o m B osto n c alle d th e

Peo ple ’s Y ello w P ages

, w hic h lis te d a ll th e c o unte rc ult u re o rg aniz a tio ns in to w n. W e

lik ed th e b asic id ea b ut d id n’t w ant a b ook th at fu rth er d iv id ed p eo ple b y a p pealin g o nly to th e c o unte rc ult u re . W hy n o t m ak e a b ook th at w ould

brin g p eo ple to geth er, e m bra ced b y e very o ne fr o m th e B la ck P anth ers to th e G ra y P anth ers a nd e ven th e b usin ess c o m munit y ? W e d ecid ed to fo rm a n o np ro fit p ub lis h in g c o m pany ( a le gally c ertif ie d n o np ro fit th is tim e) s o w e c o uld r e ceiv e c o ntr ib utio ns to s u p port th e w ork .

D ic k n am ed it S ynap se , r e fe rrin g to th e n eura l c o m munic atio ns c ir c uit s in th e b ra in .

W e ro und ed u p a fe w o th ers to jo in o ur e ffo rt a nd F re e P eo ple ’s S to re b ecam e h ead quarte rs fo r re se arc hin g a nd p ub lis h in g th e

Whole C it y

C ata lo g

, a r e so urc e g uid e th at lis te d a nd d esc rib ed e very c o m munit y a ctio n g ro up , s e rv ic e o rg aniz a tio n, d o-it - y o urs e lf , a nd a lt e rn ativ e e nte rp ris e

th at e ngaged p eo ple in th eir c o m munit ie s— fr o m g ra ssro ots g ro up s to g o vern m ent a gencie s. T ho ugh I d id n’t th in k o f it th is w ay a t th e tim e, I w as

ta k in g a n in vento ry o f th e r e so urc es m y n ew c it y h ad to o ffe r. I n la te r y ears , th is w as e xactly w hat I a d vis e d c o m munit ie s to d o w hen th ey w ere

begin nin g w ork to b uild a lo cal e co no m y— sta rt b y ta k in g a n in vento ry o f w hat y o u h ave.

I h ad b een a n E nglis h m ajo r in c o lle ge a nd re lis h ed h avin g a w rit in g p ro je ct. B y re se arc hin g a ll th e s u b je ct a re as I w as in te re ste d in , I le arn ed a

tr e m end ous a m ount a b out m y n ew h o m e c it y . W hen I h eard a b out a n in te re stin g p ro je ct o r g ro up , I s e t u p a n in te rv ie w w it h th e le ad er, a nd fr o m

th ese p eo ple I c o nnecte d to o th er g ro up s a nd a ctiv is ts , s o th at I b uilt a n etw ork o f fr ie nd s a nd c o nta cts e ngaged in th e is su es I c are d a b out. M any

of th o se r e la tio nsh ip s la st to th is d ay.

L is tin gs in th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

were a r e fle ctio n o f a ll th at w as h ap penin g in P hila d elp hia in th e e arly 1 970s— in clu d in g, in n o p artic ula r o rd er,

th e E co lo gy F ood C o-o p, H ealt h L aw P ro je ct, P hila d elp hia ns fo r E qual J u stic e, M t. A ir y B ab y S it tin g C o-o p, B la ck P olit ic al F oru m , C asa D el

C arm en, R ad ic al J e w is h C om munit y , A rc hit e ct’s W ork sh o p, P eo ple ’s B ail F und , I m pris o ned C it iz e ns U nio n, I n d ia n R ig hts A sso cia tio n, C it iz e ns

C ouncil fo r C le an A ir , P hila d elp hia W ar T ax R esis ta nce, W om en’s S tr ik e fo r P eace, P ennsy lv ania ns fo r W om en’s R ig hts , G ay A ctiv is ts A llia nce,

P eo ple ’s P ain tin g C o-o p, M ovem ent fo r a N ew S ocie ty , P eo ple ’s V id eo C ente r, P hila d elp hia F re e P re ss, P hila d elp hia R esis ta nce P rin t S ho p,

B la ck P eo ple ’s U niv ers it y , a nd C anad ia n g ro up s to w hic h P hila d elp hia ’s d ra ft re sis te rs c o uld g o (s u ch a s th e V anco uver C om mit te e to A id

A meric an W ar O bje cto rs ). T he lis tin g fo r F re e P eo ple ’s S to re r e ad , “ K eep s u s a liv e w hile w e’re d oin g th in gs lik e th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

.”

V olu nte ers c o ntr ib ute d th eir tim e to w ork o n th e

Cata lo g

. S om etim es a c usto m er w ould w alk in th e d oor a nd o ffe r to re se arc h a n a re a w e

need ed h elp o n, a nd a no th er w ould o ffe r to ty p e. ( It’s h ard to im agin e th at w e u se d ty p ew rit e rs b ack th en.) W e g ath ere d p ho to gra p hs, d ra w in gs,

and q uo te s to s p rin k le th ro ugho ut th e b ook th at e xp re sse d b oth o ur d is illu sio nm ent w it h o ur s o cie ty a nd o ur h o pe a nd in sp ir a tio n in b rin gin g c hange

by w ork in g to geth er. I c ho se a q uo te fr o m B la ck E lk , th e g re at S io ux h eale r a nd v is io nary , w hic h r e ad

I c o uld se e th at th e

wasic h us

[w hit e p eo ple ] d id n o t c are fo r e ach o th er th e w ay o ur p eo ple d id b efo re th e n atio n’s h o op w as

bro ken. T hey w ould ta k e e very th in g fr o m e ach o th er if th ey c o uld , a nd s o th ere w ere s o m e w ho h ad m ore o f e very th in g th an th ey

co uld u se , w hile c ro w ds o f p eo ple h ad n o th in g a t a ll a nd m ayb e w ere s ta rv in g. T hey h ad fo rg o tte n th at th e e arth w as th eir m oth er.

B la ck E lk c o ntin ued to b e a g uid e fo r m e, a nd s o m e fo rty y ears la te r, w hen s p eak in g a t a c o nfe re nce, I w ould a gain q uo te th e p ro phetic S io ux

le ad er. B la ck E lk e nvis io ned a fu tu re w hen th e h o op w ould b e r e co nnecte d a nd th e w orld r e unit e d — ju st a s th o se o f u s in th e lo cal liv in g e co no m y

m ovem ent w ere h o pin g to d o, c o m munit y b y c o m munit y , a s w e b uilt a nd c o nnecte d ju st, s u sta in ab le a nd h um ane e co no m ie s.

F und in g fo r p rin tin g th e fir s t e d it io n o f th e

Cata lo g

cam e s e re nd ip it o usly . O ne d ay w hen I w as ta k in g a p ho to gra p h o f a rtis ts p ain tin g a m ura l to

use in th e

Cata lo g

, th e d ir e cto r o f th e P hila d elp hia M use um o f A rt’s D ep artm ent o f U rb an O utr e ach, D avid K atz iv e, s to pped b y to w atc h, a nd

w e b egan c hattin g. H e w as e nth usia stic a b out th e id ea o f th e

Cata lo g

and m ad e a n u nso lic it e d g ra nt to w ard it s p rin tin g. O ur fir s t g ra nt! I w as s o

excit e d . O th er a cq uain ta nces c o nnecte d u s to tw o a d dit io nal fu nd ers , th e R elig io us S ocie ty o f F rie nd s a nd th e P hila d elp hia G as W ork s, w hic h

co m ple te d o ur fu nd in g a lo ng w it h a g enero us p rin te r w ho a gre ed to p rin t fo urte en th o usa nd c o pie s a t c o st a nd to w ait u ntil s a le s p ic k ed u p b efo re

co lle ctin g th e b ill.

W hen it w as tim e to la y o ut th e p ages o f th e

Cata lo g

, w e c lo se d th e s to re fo r a w eek d urin g th e s lo w s u m mer m onth o f A ugust to p ro vid e s p ace

to d o th e w ork . L ock in g th e fr o nt d oor, w e s e t u p s e vera l o ld d oors o n s a w ho rs e s to b e u se d a s ta b le s a rra nged a cro ss th e s to re . O n th ese w e

pla ced r o w s o f b lu e-lin ed p ap er ( u nd ete cta b le to th e p rin te r in th e o ld -fa sh io ned o ffs e t p rin tin g p ro cess) th at p ro vid ed a g uid e fo r g lu in g o nto th e

pages h und re d s o f lit tle ty p ed p ie ces o f p ap er, a lo ng w it h p ho to s a nd d ra w in gs. W e h ad n o a ir - c o nd it io nin g a nd c o uld n o t e ven o pen a w in d ow o r

use a fa n b ecause th e m ovin g a ir w ould h ave b lo w n th e p ap er a ll o ver th e p la ce. D ic k a nd I tie d b and anas a ro und o ur h ead s in a n a tte m pt to k eep

our s w eat fr o m d rip pin g o nto th e p ages. I t w as b ack -str a in in g w ork to le an o ver th o se ta b le s fo r a w eek in a c lo se d r o om th at s m elle d o f s w eat

and r u b ber c em ent. B ut w e fin ally fin is h ed th e fir s t

Whole C it y C ata lo g

, w hic h w e p ub lis h ed in 1 973.

T ho ugh I n ever h ad a ny in te re st in b usin ess w hile in c o lle ge a nd im agin ed a c are er in th e a rts , I b egan to c hange fr o m m y n aïv e d ays a s a r e lu cta nt

busin essp ers o n w ho b elie ved th at p ro fit w as a d ir ty w ord . W ork in g in th e s to re p re tty q uic k ly h elp ed m e s e e th e n eed fo r a r e aso nab le p ro fit a nd I

cam e to u nd ers ta nd h o w p ro fit s e nsu re th e h ealt h o f a b usin ess, a llo w id eas to g ro w , a nd c an b e u se d a s c o ntr ib utio ns to c o m munit y n o np ro fit s —

su ch a s o ur p ub lis h in g w ork a t S ynap se a nd th e m any o th er g o od w ork s I w as d is c o verin g th ro ugh m y r e se arc h fo r th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

.

A s m y lif e e vo lv ed , th e v alu es w it h w hic h w e s ta rte d th e s to re a nd m y th o ughts a b out th e r o le o f b usin ess in c o m munit y lif e s ta yed w it h m e. S o d id

m y in te re st in s e llin g w hat I p ers o nally lik ed to p eo ple I e njo yed b ein g a ro und a nd p ro vid in g a p la ce to g ath er a nd ta lk a b out th e is su es o f th e d ay.

T his w as a fe atu re th at w ould b lo sso m fu lly y ears la te r in th e W hit e D og C afé , w here e d ucatio nal p ro gra m s in sp ir in g c usto m ers to b e e ngaged

cit iz e ns b ecam e a p ro duct o f th e b usin ess a lo ng w it h fo od a nd s e rv ic e.

F ro m th e b egin nin g, b usin ess o w ners h ip fo r m e m eant th e fr e ed om to e xp re ss m y c re ativ it y . I s a w th at b ein g a g o od b usin essp ers o n w as a b out

giv in g m y c usto m ers s o m eth in g s p ecia l a nd th at th e u niq ueness c am e fr o m w ho I w as a s a p ers o n. B esid es lo okin g a t w hat p ro duct o r s e rv ic e w as

need ed in m y c o m munit y , it w as a ls o im porta nt to lo ok w it h in a nd s e e h o w m y b usin ess c o uld b e a u niq ue s e lf - e xp re ssio n. F re e P eo ple ’s S to re w as a k in d o f a rt fo rm th at e xp re sse d m y p ers o nalit y , lik e m y c hild ho od v entu re s, b ut it a ls o e xp re sse d m y p ers o nal v alu es.

F ro m th en o n, h avin g m y w ork tr u ly r e fle ct w hat I s ta nd fo r a s a p ers o n b ecam e a n e sse ntia l a sp ect o f m y c are er. T he s u ccess o f F re e P eo ple ’s

S to re ta ught m e n o t to b e a fr a id to e xp re ss m y p ro gre ssiv e v alu es th ro ugh m y b usin ess, v alu es th at D ic k a nd I s h are d a t th e tim e. I le arn ed th at it

w as p ossib le to d evelo p a c lie nte le o f “ fr e e p eo ple ”— a c o m munit y o f c usto m ers w it h s h are d v alu es— so m eth in g I w ould d o a gain s u ccessfu lly a t

th e W hit e D og C afé s o m e tw enty y ears la te r. I a ls o le arn ed th at y o u c an in cre ase th e p osit iv e s o cia l im pact o f a b usin ess b y s ta rtin g a n o np ro fit

affilia te , a s F re e P eo ple ’s S to re d id w it h S ynap se a nd a s I w ould a ls o la te r d o w it h th e n o np ro fit W hit e D og C om munit y E nte rp ris e s.

B ut I d id n’t ju st le arn a b out b usin ess a nd c o m munit y d urin g m y y ears a t th e F re e P eo ple ’s S to re . I le arn ed a lo t a b out m yse lf , to o. I fe lt th e p ow er

of m y o w n w ill a nd d ete rm in atio n, n o t o nly to c re ate a nd b uild , b ut a ls o to p ro te ct a nd e nd ure . I re aliz e d th at b ein g a n e ntr e p re neur w as a b out

envis io nin g s o m eth in g o ut o f n o th in g. E ven m ore , it w as a b out th e d ete rm in atio n to m anif e st d re am s a nd p ers is t th ro ugh in evit a b le c halle nges to

re aliz e th em . T ho ugh it m ay se em lik e m um bo ju m bo to so m e, I b egan to b elie ve th at w hen I se t m y m in d to so m eth in g, c o m mit tin g m yse lf

w ho le hearte d ly , I a lig ned m yse lf w it h a g re ate r fo rc e th at g ave m e c o ura ge a nd s tr e ngth . T he m ore I b elie ved th is , th e m ore d oors o pened . W as it

so m eth in g I im agin ed ? I t s e em ed th at p eo ple , e ven s tr a ngers , a p peare d ju st a s I n eed ed th em , b rin gin g a ssis ta nce, a d vic e, o r m ate ria l r e so urc es.

E ven th e u nw ante d s tr a ngers h ad le sso ns to te ach.

M eanw hile , n o t a ll w as w ell in m y m arrie d lif e . W hile F re e P eo ple ’s S to re c o ntin ued to g ro w a nd th riv e in th o se fir s t c o up le o f y ears , m y

re la tio nsh ip w it h D ic k d id n o t. T he le ad ers h ip q ualit ie s th at a ttr a cte d m e to h im a s a y o ung g ir l p ic k in g th e b est b oy to m arry h ad n o w b eco m e

oppre ssiv e. A fte r m ovin g to a b ig c it y , s ta rtin g a b usin ess, a nd te stin g m y s tr e ngth in th e w orld , b ein g p erc eiv ed a s le ss w orth y o r c ap ab le b ecause

I w as fe m ale b ecam e le ss a nd le ss p ala ta b le , a nd th at w as th e s it u atio n I fo und m yse lf in . D ic k a nd S co tt in cre asin gly ig no re d m e a s a b usin ess

partn er, k eep in g m e in th e d ark a b out o ur fin ances, a nd jo kin g a b out h o w

th e lit tle w om an sh ould n’t w orry h er p re tty lit tle h ea d a bout

busin ess.

The to ne w as lig hth earte d , b ut it w as n o jo ke. I k new it w as th e w ay th ey s a w th in gs. I re aliz e d th at m y im porta nt c o ntr ib utio ns in

co ncep tu aliz in g th e sto re w ere d is c o unte d . S am e w it h m y w ork in b uyin g and d is p la yin g, and m y ap tit u d e fo r b uild in g re la tio nsh ip s in th e

co m munit y — all d is c o unte d . T he “ im porta nt w ork ” o f c o ntr o llin g fin ances a nd p la nnin g fo r g ro w th w as le ft to th e m en. T his b ro ught m e r ig ht b ack

to th at b all fie ld in th e fif th g ra d e: g ir ls c an’t p la y.

I s lo w ly a nd p ain fu lly r e aliz e d th at m y p la ce in th e w orld w as n o t a t D ic k ’s s id e. I c o uld n’t b e M rs . R ic hard H ayne a ny m ore . N ow it w as tim e fo r

m e to c halle nge tr a d it io n in a no th er w ay a nd n o t a ccep t th e s e co nd -c la ss s ta tu s th ey h ad a ssig ned m e fo r b ein g fe m ale . M y c ho ic es w ere c le ar. I

co uld r e m ain in a s a fe y et c o nstr ic te d r o le , o r ta k e th e r is k to le ad m y o w n lif e .

Ju st a s a ll o f u s, m en a nd w om en, m ust o verc o m e th e p sy cho lo gic al b arrie rs th at te ll u s th at w e a re n o t c ap ab le , th at w e a re n o t g o od e no ugh, th at

w e n eed s o m eo ne e ls e to b e w ho le , I h ad to le t g o o f o ld n o tio ns th at w ere h o ld in g m e b ack . A s s c ary a s it w as, I h ad to g iv e u p a ll D ic k a nd I

had b uilt to geth er in e xchange fo r th e fr e ed om to fo llo w m y o w n p ath . M y c o ura ge c am e fr o m h avin g le arn ed th at w hen I se t m y in te ntio n,

so m eth in g s o m e- w here p ro vid ed w hat I n eed ed to g et th ere . N ow I h ad to fin d o ut w hate ver b ecam e o f th at lit tle g ir l n am ed J u d y W ic k s, w ho se

nam e I h ad c ro sse d o ff m y ta b le t in fif th g ra d e.

D ic k ’s a nd m y liv es w ould ta k e d ra stic ally d if fe re nt tu rn s. H e c o ntin ued o n w it h F re e P eo ple ’s S to re , a nd I h ad n o id ea w here lif e w as le ad in g

w hen I p ack ed m y b ags a nd le ft m y h usb and , h o m e, a nd b usin ess. I g o t o nly a b lo ck a w ay w hen I r a n a r e d lig ht a nd c o llid ed w it h a no th er c ar.

L uck ily , n o o ne w as h urt, b ut th e c ar I w as u sin g c o uld n o t b e d riv en. A p asse rb y o ffe re d to h elp m e h o m e.

“B ut I c an’t g o h o m e. I’v e ju st le ft m y h usb and ! M y b ags a re p ack ed , a nd I’v e g o t to k eep g o in g!” I p oure d o ut a s w e s to od o n th e s id ew alk .

“A nd n o w I h ave to fin d a jo b fa st b ecause I n eed m oney to r e p air th e c ar!”

“M ayb e I c an h elp ,” s a id th e p asse rb y, a v ery fr ie nd ly b lo nd , c urly -h air e d y o ung m an a b out m y a ge. “ I w ork in a r e sta ura nt c alle d L a T erra sse o n

th e 3 400 b lo ck o f S anso m S tr e et n ear th e u niv ers it y , a nd th ey h ave a n o penin g fo r a w ait r e ss.”

“I’ll ta k e it ,” I s a id im med ia te ly , a s if I w as ta lk in g to th e p ers o n w ho w as h ir in g m e.

A nd s o th at’ s h o w I g o t in to th e r e sta ura nt b usin ess th at w ould b e m y lif e fo r th e n ext fo rty y ears — quit e b y a ccid ent! Yie ld w ho w ill to th eir s e p ara ti o n

My o bje ct i n li v in g

Is to u nite m y a vo ca ti o n a nd m y v o ca ti o n

As m y tw o e yes m ake o ne s ig ht.

For o nly w here lo ve a nd n eed a re o ne

And w ork i s p la y fo r m orta l s ta kes

Is th e d eed e ver r e a lly d one

For h ea ven a nd th e fu tu re ’s s a kes.

—Robert F ro st

4

It’ s N ot t h e C oin t h at C ou nts : L earn in g t o D o

Busin ess M y W ay

L A T ER RA SSE

was a h ard p la ce to fin d . S anso m S tr e et w as o nly tw o b lo ck s lo ng in th at p art o f to w n, la rg ely s u rro und ed b y th e e xp and in g c am pus

of th e U niv ers it y o f P ennsy lv ania . W hen I fin ally c am e u p on th e 3 400 b lo ck o f S anso m S tr e et a nd w alk ed d ow n th e n arro w tr e e-lin ed s tr e et fo r

th e fir s t tim e, I w as e ntir e ly e nchante d . T he r o w o f c harm in g, th o ugh s lig htly r u n-d ow n, V ic to ria n b ro w nsto ne h o use s p ro vid ed a s m all o asis fr o m

th e b le ak , u nfr ie nd ly in stit u tio nal b uild in gs th at s u rro und ed it . M any o f th e o ld er h o m es in th e u niv ers it y c o m munit y w ere b ein g to rn d ow n a nd

re p la ced b y s ta rk h ig h-ris e d orm it o rie s a nd o ffic e b uild in gs, s tr ip m alls , a nd a cre s o f d ead z o nes u se d a s p ark in g lo ts fo r th e m any c o m mute rs w ho

dro ve in fr o m th e su b urb s. In sh arp c o ntr a st, th ese h und re d -y ear- o ld , th re e-sto ry ro w h o use s o n S anso m S tr e et w ere h um an-sc ale — quain t,

ho m ey, in vit in g. T he r o sy b ro w nsto ne g ave th e s tr e et a w arm g lo w , a nd th e fr in ge-lik e d eco ra tiv e V ic to ria n tr im a lo ng th e c o rn ic es a d ded a fe stiv e,

old -fa sh io ned a llu re to th e b lo ck .

N estle d o n th at m agic al b lo ck , I fo und th e re sta ura nt I w as lo okin g fo r a nd a sk ed to s e e th e m anager. H e s e em ed v ery e ager to fin d a n ew

w ait r e ss a s s o on a s p ossib le , a nd th o ugh I h ad n o e xp erie nce o th er th an s e rv in g c o ck ta ils fo r a s u m mer jo b in c o lle ge, I w as im med ia te ly h ir e d a nd

put r ig ht to w ork . W hen m y fir s t ta b le w as s e ate d , I w as s o h esit a nt th at th e h o ste ss h ad to g iv e m e a b ig p ush , a nd I s tu m ble d u p to th e ta b le to

gre et m y fir s t c usto m ers . N ot a g la m oro us b egin nin g to m y n ew c are er! B ut I s o on g o t th e h ang o f it .

W hen ta k in g th e w ait r e ss jo b a t L a T erra sse in 1 972, I o f c o urs e h ad n o in k lin g th at I w as b egin nin g tw elv e y ears o f o n-th e-jo b tr a in in g fo r

openin g m y o w n r e sta ura nt ju st d ow n th e s tr e et. A fte r a ll, it w asn ’t th at I a ctu ally c ho se th e r e sta ura nt b usin ess a fte r c o nte m pla tin g th e c are er b est

su it e d to m e. I d id n’t e ven lik e to c o ok. R ath er, I u se d th e c ard s th at w ere d ealt m e. W hen th e o pportu nit y p re se nte d it s e lf , I w ent w it h it , n o t

kno w in g w here it w ould ta k e m e— and fo r th e tim e b ein g, I w as o pen to w hate ver m ig ht c o m e.

N ot lo ng a fte r ta k in g th e jo b, I m oved in to a n a p artm ent ju st d ow n th e s tr e et fr o m L a T erra sse . O n fir s t w alk in g th ro ugh th e d oor o f th e h o use a t

3420 S anso m S tr e et, w hic h h ad a h ealt h fo od s to re o n th e fir s t flo or a nd m y a p artm ent a b ove, a gain I c o uld n ever h ave g uesse d th at I w ould liv e

in th at b uild in g fo r th e n ext th ir ty -e ig ht y ears . B ut I d id im med ia te ly fe el a c o nnectio n to S anso m S tr e et a nd b egan to m ak e it m y h o m e. I t w as n o t

only th e lo ok a nd fe el o f th e s tr e et th at I lik ed , b ut a ls o th e p eo ple w ho liv ed o r g ath ere d th ere .

N ig ht a nd d ay th ere w as a ctiv it y o n th e s id ew alk s— re sid ents c o m in g a nd g o in g to w ork o r to c la ss a nd c usto m ers g o in g in a nd o ut o f th e s h o ps

and c afé s. M y n ew n eig hb ors , ra ngin g in a ge fr o m e ig hte een to e ig hty , in clu d ed a rtis ts , y o ung p ro fe ssio nals , s tu d ents a nd p ro fe sso rs fr o m th e

U niv ers it y o f P ennsy lv ania , a nd ( lik e m e) e m plo yees o f th e lo cal b usin esse s. O ne h o use w as s till a s in gle -fa m ily h o m e, c o m ple te w it h a ll th e o rig in al

V ic to ria n d eta ils , w here a n e ld erly w om an h ad liv ed fo r m ore y ears th an a nyo ne c o uld r e m em ber. B ut m ost o f th e h o use s h ad b een d iv id ed in to

se vera l a p artm ents w it h a fe w s m all r e ta il b usin esse s a nd o ffic es o n th e fir s t flo ors th at s e rv ed th e lo cal c o m munit y .

L a T erra sse w as a n eig hb orh o od h ango ut— a b ohem ia n-sty le F re nch c afé w it h a tr e e g ro w in g r ig ht u p th ro ugh th e le ak y c o rru gate d p la stic r o of o f

th e c o vere d te rra ce, a nd w here th e G ru yère c heese o n th e o nio n s o up w as s o th ic k it h ad to b e c ut w it h a k nif e . I jo in ed th e s ta ff o f fla m boyant

yo ung w ait r e sse s w ho ty p ic ally d re sse d in 1 970s-sty le h o t p ants a nd ta ll b oots o r lo ng flo w in g s k ir ts a nd s h eer to ps. I t tu rn ed o ut th at th ere w as

only o ne m ale s e rv er, S kip , th e v ery s a m e b lo nd , c urly -h air e d fe llo w w ho h ad w it n esse d m y a ccid ent o n L ocust S tr e et. B ala ncin g c ara fe s o f w in e

and tr a ys o f F re nch p astr ie s, w e s e rv ers m ad e o ur w ay th ro ugh th e c ro w ded d in in g ro om s fille d w it h a h o dgep odge o f c usto m ers d re sse d in

every th in g fr o m b usin ess s u it s w it h tie s to tw eed y ja ck ets w it h p atc hed e lb ow s to jo ggin g s h o rts a nd b lu e je ans w it h T -sh ir ts . M any o f th e L a T erra sse re gula rs w ho c am e a lm ost d aily w ere p art o f th e c ult u ra l in te llig ents ia o f th e u niv ers it y . P ro fe sso r N eil W elliv er w as a

pain te r w ho se la rg e-sc ale o ils o f th e M ain e w oods le d h im to b e c alle d o ne o f th e g re ate st A meric an la nd sc ap e p ain te rs o f h is g enera tio n. N eil w as

co chair o f P enn’s D ep artm ent o f F in e A rts a lo ng w it h s c ulp to r R obert E ngm an, w ho w as m y n ext- d oor n eig hb or. I c o uld s e e th ro ugh th e w in d ow s

acro ss th e lig ht c o urt b etw een o ur h o use s in to B ob’s tw o-sto ry s tu d io , w here h e w ork ed o n a n e no rm ous a b str a ct p ie ce c alle d

Triu ne

, w hic h

w ould b e c ast in b ro nze a nd p la ced a t a b usy in te rs e ctio n n ear P hila d elp hia ’s C it y H all. B ob h ad a h earty s p ir it , a nd I re m em ber h im te llin g th e

sto ry o f fe elin g s o a nno yed b y th e s o und o f h is w if e ’s v acuum c le aner w hen h e liv ed in th e s u b urb s th at h e h ad fin ally p ic k ed it u p b y th e h o se ,

sw ung it a ro und lik e a la sso , a nd le t it s a il r ig ht th ro ugh a g la ss w in d ow in to th e y ard .

A fe w d oors fa rth er u p th e s tr e et in a n a p artm ent a b ove L a T erra sse liv ed a no th er n atio nally r e co gniz e d s c ulp to r, R obin F re d enth al. S tr ic k en a t a n

early a ge w it h P ark in so n’s d is e ase th at r e su lt e d in u nste ad y h and s a nd e rra tic m otio ns, R obin w ork ed w it h th e h elp o f a ssis ta nts w ho fo llo w ed h is

dir e ctio ns in co nstr u ctin g th re e-d im ensio nal card board m odels in geo m etr ic sh ap es. S om e o f th ese m odels w ent o n to b eco m e gia nt ste el

sc ulp tu re s th at g ra ced th e P enn c am pus a nd p ub lic s p aces a ro und P hila d elp hia a nd a cro ss th e c o untr y . A c harm in g a nd b rillia nt v is io nary w it h th e

co ura ge to c arry o n h is w ork d esp it e h is c rip plin g d is e ase , R obin a ttr a cte d m any v is it o rs to th e a p artm ent s tu d io h e ra re ly le ft. F rie nd s a nd fa ns

clim bed th e n arro w w ooden s te p s to th e th ir d flo or w here R obin s a t s u rro und ed b y th o usa nd s o f w hit e c ard board m odels th at fille d e very n o ok

and c ra nny o f th e fla t h e s h are d w it h h is tw o c ats .

W hen I fir s t w ait e d o n I a n M cH arg , e ste em ed c hair o f P enn’s D ep artm ent o f L and sc ap e A rc hit e ctu re , I w as im pre sse d w it h h is e le gant m anner,

lo ng b ush y m ousta che, a nd k in d ness to w ard th e s ta ff. B ut I w as to o n aïv e to u nd ers ta nd th e im porta nce o f h is r e cent b ook,

Desig n w it h N atu re

,

w hic h p io neere d th e c o ncep t o f e co lo gic al p la nnin g. N ot u ntil th ir ty y ears la te r, w hen I w as d eep ly e ngaged in th e lo cal liv in g e co no m y m ovem ent,

w ould I c o m e to re aliz e h o w h is re vo lu tio nary th in k in g a ro und h um ans’ p la ce in n atu re w as fo und atio nal to o ur m ovem ent’s w ork . P ro fe sso r

M cH arg , I s a w a t th at la te r tim e, a rtic ula te d s o c le arly a nd p ro fo und ly th e im porta nce o f th is e ra in h is to ry — th at w e a re tr a nsfo rm in g o ur w orld

fr o m th e m odern in d ustr ia l e ra th at h e r e fe rre d to a s o ne o f “ d om in ate a nd d estr o y” to a n ew e ra o f “ c o opera te a nd r e sto re .” B ut in 1 972, I ju st

w ante d to m ak e s u re I d id n’t s p ill h is m artin i.

I s o on le arn ed th at o ur S anso m S tr e et n eig hb orh o od h ad it s o w n e xp erie nce o f “ d om in ate a nd d estr o y” to d eal w it h . N ot lo ng a fte r I s e ttle d in to

m y n ew h o m e a nd c o m munit y , I h eard s h o ck in g n ew s. O ur e ntir e b lo ck , p riz e d fo r it s lo catio n o n th e U niv ers it y o f P ennsy lv ania c am pus, w as

earm ark ed fo r th e d evelo pm ent o f a c o m merc ia l m all. H ow c o uld it b e th at th e re sid ents a nd s m all b usin esse s w ould b e e vic te d , o ur c o m munit y

destr o yed , a nd th e b eautif u l b ro w nsto ne h o use s d em olis h ed to m ak e w ay fo r o rd in ary c hain s to re s a nd fa st- fo od r e sta ura nts ? I w as o utr a ged .

D ete rm in ed to h elp s a ve m y n ew fo und c o m munit y , I e agerly jo in ed th e S anso m C om mit te e, w ho se m is sio n w as to s to p th e d em olit io n a nd to

develo p a n a lt e rn ativ e p la n fo r th e re sto ra tio n o f th is h is to ric b lo ck . O ur p ow erfu l a d vers a rie s in clu d ed th e U niv ers it y o f P ennsy lv ania , th eir

co rp ora te a llie s in th e o ld b oys’ n etw ork w ho w ould b enefit fr o m th e d evelo pm ent, a nd tw o g o vern m ent a gencie s— th e C it y o f P hila d elp hia a nd

th e U S D ep artm ent o f H ousin g a nd U rb an D evelo pm ent, w hic h w ie ld ed th eir p ow er to s u p port th e u niv ers it y ’s e xp ansio n.

S anso m C om mit te e m em bers in clu d ed th e re sid ents a nd s m all b usin ess o w ners o f th e b lo ck , a lo ng w it h th e P enn p ro fe sso rs w ho fr e q uente d L a

Terra sse a nd o ppose d th eir e m plo yer’s d em olit io n p la ns. T he c o m mit te e w as le d b y E llio t C ook, th e r a p sc allio n o w ner o f L a T erra sse , w ho h ad a

fa sc in atin g b le nd o f h ig h-m in d ed v is io n a nd ro guis h b ehavio r th at o fte n w ent o ver th e to p. W hat h e lik ely v ie w ed a s a h arm le ss p ra nk — mak in g

re p eate d , u np aid -fo r, lo ng-d is ta nce p ho ne c alls w it h a n ille gal d evic e c alle d a “ b lu e b ox”— had la nd ed h im in fe d era l p ris o n fo r th re e m onth s d urin g

th e s e ventie s. T here , h e w as tr a in ed fo r h is jo b in th e p ris o n k it c hen b y o utg o in g in m ate G . G ord on L id dy o f W ate rg ate fa m e. O n th e o th er h and , it

had b een E llio t’s h ig her s e lf th at le d th e p ro cess fo r c re atin g a n a lt e rn ativ e p la n fo r o ur b lo ck — a p la n th at w ould p re se rv e it s h is to ric c hara cte r

w hile d evelo pin g a m ix ed u se o f u niq ue s h o ps a nd r e sta ura nts a s a v ib ra nt r e ta il c ente r w it h h o usin g fo r o ur c o m munit y o n th e u p per flo ors . D urin g

th e fig ht to s a ve o ur b lo ck , th e u niv ers it y o ffe re d E llio t a d eal th at w ould h ave s a ved h is o w n b usin ess w hile s a crif ic in g th e r e st o f th e b lo ck to th e

w re ck in g b all. O n p rin cip le , a nd lik ely a ls o b ecause h e e njo yed a g o od fig ht, h e r e fu se d th e o ffe r a nd c o ntin ued h is o pposit io n.

A mong th e o th er m em bers o f o ur c o m munit y g ro up w ere se vera l g ra d uate s o f P enn’s a rc hit e ctu re d ep artm ent, in clu d in g S am L it tle , w ho se

co ntr ib utio ns in clu d ed lig ht s tu d ie s d em onstr a tin g h o w th e to w erin g m all th e d evelo pers p ro pose d fo r W aln ut a nd S anso m S tr e ets w ould le ave th e

P enn L aw S cho ol, a cro ss S anso m S tr e et to th e n o rth , in p erp etu al s h ad e. N eil S chlo sse r w as a no th er a rc hit e ctu re s c ho ol g ra d uate , w ho lik e S am

had m oved o nto th e b lo ck w hile a tte nd in g th e u niv ers it y . N eil’ s fir m , S R K A rc hit e cts , h ad e xp ertis e in h is to ric re sto ra tio n a nd p ro vid ed th e

S anso m C om mit te e w it h re nd erin gs o f th e re sto re d b lo ck o ur c o m mit te e e nvis io ned . I s till re m em ber th e e xact ta b le a t L a T erra sse , a fo ur- to p

rig ht n ext to th e tr e e g ro w in g th ro ugh th e ro of, w here I m et th e h and so m e, d ark -c urly -h air e d y o ung a rc hit e ct w it h k in d b ro w n e yes— because

eventu ally I w ould m arry h im .

M y ro le o n th e S anso m C om mit te e w as b uild in g c o m munit y re la tio ns, a nd I to ok th e le ad in o rg aniz in g a n o utd oor b lo ck p arty p ub lic iz in g o ur

“S ave th e B lo ck ” c am paig n. M y r e se arc h fo r th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

had m ad e m e a w are o f o th er c o m munit y g ro up s fig htin g d em olit io n, a nd I

in vit e d th em a ll to jo in o ur e vent. E ach g ro up p ut u p d is p la ys a b out it s o w n D avid -a nd -G olia th s tr u ggle s a t o ur “ S ave th e B lo ck ” p arty a m id fo od

booth s a nd liv e m usic — th e fir s t o f m any s tr e et p artie s I ’d th ro w o n S anso m S tr e et in th e y ears a head .

D urin g th at tim e o f s tr u ggle to s a ve o ur b lo ck , I le arn ed fr o m o th ers o n th e c o m mit te e a b out th e le gend ary u rb an a ctiv is t J a ne J a co bs, a uth o r o f

T he D ea th a nd L if e o f G re a t A m eric a n C it ie s

. A t th at tim e in th e 1 970s, J a co bs h ad n o t y et b een r e co gniz e d a s a v is io nary , b ut fo r th e S anso m

C om mit te e s h e w as o ur g uid in g lig ht. I t w as fr o m r e ad in g J a ne J a co bs, w ho lo ved h er o w n n eig hb orh o od in N ew Y ork C it y a s w e lo ved S anso m

S tr e et, th at I le arn ed th e im porta nt c o ncep ts o f “ m ix ed u se ” a nd “ w alk ab le c o m munit ie s,” in w hic h re sid ents p ro sp ere d fr o m a liv ely m ix tu re o f

re sid ences a nd b usin esse s a nd c o uld w alk to s to re s a nd r e sta ura nts , to jo bs a nd s c ho ols , to p ark s a nd th eatr e s. T his a p pro ach to d esig nin g c it ie s

and to w ns b ecam e k no w n a s th e N ew U rb anis m , v it a lly im porta nt to day a s w e s tr u ggle to r e d uce c arb on e m is sio ns.

T he b ustle o f c it y lif e I e njo yed s o m uch w as e lo quently d esc rib ed b y J a co bs a s “ sid ew alk b alle t.” I t w as J a ne J a co bs w ho h elp ed m e u nd ers ta nd

w hy it w as n o a ccid ent th at in te re stin g p eo ple c am e to o ur c o m munit y . T hey w ere a ttr a cte d to th e v ib ra nt c hara cte r o f o ur b lo ck a nd th e u niq ue

w arm fe el o f th e a rc hit e ctu re , th e o nly in ta ct h is to ric b lo ck r e m ain in g o n th e c am pus a m id th e b le ak n ew in stit u tio nal d evelo pm ent th at tu rn ed a c o ld sh o uld er to th e s tr e et lif e J a co bs u p held . A rre ste d s e vera l tim es fo r p ro te stin g d evelo pers , th e o uts p oken J a co bs c o nd em ned th e u rb an re new al

m ovem ent fo llo w in g th e e nd o f W orld W ar II, w hen w ho le n eig hb orh o ods w ere ra ze d , d estr o yin g c lo se -k nit c o m munit ie s a nd th riv in g lo cal

eco no m ie s to b uild s te rile h ig h-ris e o ffic e b uild in gs. S he s h o w ed h o w r e sid ents w ere e nco ura ged to le ave th e c it y fo r th e s p ra w lin g s u b urb s w here

ho usin g d evelo pm ents a nd s h o ppin g m alls w ere d estr o yin g r ic h fa rm la nd s fo r n o m ore th an w hat s h e s c o rn fu lly c alle d “ c heap p ark in g.”

Ju st a s o ur h ero in e o nce p re se nte d h er a rg um ents to r e sis t a h ig hw ay p ro posa l to p ro te ct h er b elo ved G re enw ic h V illa ge, th e S anso m C om mit te e

fo ught to s a ve o ur b lo ck u sin g J a co bs’s w ork to a rtic ula te o ur c ase . W e h ir e d a to p a tto rn ey, R obert S ugarm an, a lo vab le y et fe ro cio us c ru sa d er

kno w n fo r d efe nd in g c o m munit ie s a nd th e n atu ra l e nvir o nm ent a gain st a b use o f p ow er, a nd file d a la w su it b ase d o n th e m is u se o f e m in ent d om ain

and th e la ck o f th e re q uir e d e nvir o nm enta l im pact s ta te m ent. T he S anso m C om mit te e a rc hit e cts d re w u p p la ns to s h o w h o w th e b lo ck c o uld b e

beautif u lly r e no vate d to c re ate a u niq ue r e ta il c ente r fo r th e c am pus a nd p ro vid e u rb an h o m es fo r u niv ers it y fa cult y w ho n o w c o m mute d fr o m th e

su b urb s. W e p oin te d to th e v ib ra ncy o f o th er u rb an c am puse s, s u ch a s C am brid ge a nd G eo rg eto w n, w hic h th riv ed w it h th e m ix tu re o f c o m merc ia l

and r e sid entia l, s tu d ents a nd n o nstu d ents . Q uo tin g J a ne J a co bs, w e s h o w ed h o w m ix ed -u se d evelo pm ent k eep s n eig hb orh o ods o ccup ie d d ay a nd

nig ht, p ro vid in g m ore v it a lit y a s w ell a s s e curit y ; th e s h o pkeep ers k eep w atc h o ver th e n eig hb orh o od d urin g th e d ay a nd th e r e sid ents k eep w atc h

at n ig ht.

In m y s e p ara tio n fr o m D ic k , w e a gre ed th at I w ould ta k e r e sp onsib ilit y fo r th e c o ntin ued p ub lic atio n o f th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

and ru nnin g th e

no np ro fit p ub lis h in g c o m pany S ynap se . W e a ls o a gre ed th at I w ould r e ceiv e a tw o-h und re d -d olla r- a -w eek s tip end fr o m th e s to re fo r o ne y ear s o

th at I d id n o t h ave to w ork fu ll- tim e in o rd er to fin is h th e

Cata lo g

. T ho ugh S ynap se , a s a n o np ro fit , h ad n o v alu e, it w as v alu ab le to m e a s a w ay

to b e in vo lv ed in th e c o m munit y a nd b rin g a b out p osit iv e s o cia l c hange. B ecause I w as a sh am ed a b out le avin g th e m arria ge— div o rc e w as n o t

co m mon in I n go m ar a nd h ad a n egativ e s tig m a a tta ched to it — and b ecause I fe lt te rrib le a b out th e h urt th at m y le avin g h ad c ause d D ic k , it d id n o t

se em a p pro pria te to ta lk a b out m oney o r h o w w e w ould s p lit th e o nly th in g w e o w ned o f r e al v alu e, th e s to re . I w alk ed a w ay, ta k in g n o th in g e ls e

w it h m e b ut a v erb al a gre em ent fr o m D ic k th at w hen h e s o ld th e s to re , I w ould g et m y s h are . N ot h avin g a w rit te n a gre em ent w as a m is ta k e I

w ould m ak e a t le ast o ne m ore tim e.

T he fir s t is su e o f th e

Cata lo g

was fin is h ed in 1 972, ju st b efo re I m oved to S anso m S tr e et. F or th e n ext tw o y ears , w hile I w ork ed p art- tim e

w ait in g ta b le s a t L a T erra sse , I fo cuse d m uch o f m y e nerg y o n r e se arc hin g, w rit in g, a nd d esig nin g th e s e co nd e d it io n.

In th e s p rin g o f 1 974, ju st a s I fin is h ed th e s e co nd e d it io n, a n ew ly h ir e d g enera l m anager o f L a T erra sse h ad s e nt th e re sta ura nt in to a ta ils p in .

E llio t, o ur b oss, w as liv in g in B osto n w hile a tte nd in g g ra d uate s c ho ol, a nd th in gs w ere g ettin g in cre asin gly c hao tic . R um or h ad it th at th e r e sta ura nt

w as lo sin g m oney. T he c ash ie r, M arg e G re ensp an— a q uic k -w it te d , m id dle -a ged m oth er o f th re e w ho se o pin io n w as v alu ed b y a ll— cam e u p w it h

th e s u rp ris in g s u ggestio n th at I m anage th e r e sta ura nt.

Me?

Tho ugh I h ad a tin y b it o f b usin ess e xp erie nce fr o m F re e P eo ple ’s S to re , I c erta in ly h ad

never r u n a r e sta ura nt, n o r s u p erv is e d e m plo yees, b ut M arg e m ust h ave s e en s o m eth in g in m e th at I h ad n’t y et d is c o vere d . S in ce E llio t w as in th e

m id dle o f e xam s, h e h ad n’t m uch c ho ic e a nd o ver th e p ho ne h e a sk ed m e to ta k e th e jo b fo r tw o w eek s u ntil h e h ad th e c hance to fin is h h is

se m este r a nd h ir e a p ro fe ssio nal m anager. T his s e em ed lik e a w ild id ea, b ut w hy n o t? I h ad ju st s e nt th e s e co nd e d it io n o f th e

Cata lo g

off to th e

prin te r, s o h ad th e tim e.

E llio t fle w d ow n fr o m B osto n, fir e d th e m anager, p ro m ote d m e, a nd re tu rn ed to B osto n. S ud denly , a t a ge tw enty -se ven, I w ent fr o m b ein g a

w ait r e ss to g enera l m anager o f a r e sta ura nt w it h 1 20 s e ats a nd o ver fif ty e m plo yees.

What h ad I g otte n m yse lf in to ?

The p re vio us m anager h ad

le ft h is d esk to ta lly e m pty — no t o ne file , jo b d esc rip tio n, fo rm , s y ste m , o r re co rd o th er th an b asic b ookkeep in g (a nd th at w as in ad eq uate , a s I

so on fo und o ut) . T here w as n o in str u ctio n b ook, a nd n o o ne to g uid e m e in th is b ig u nd erta k in g. F ortu nate ly , E llio t h ad a ls o p ro m ote d M arg e fr o m

cash ie r to b ookkeep er, a nd w e s h are d a s e co nd -flo or o ffic e. W it h a tr e m end ous s e nse o f h um or a nd m oth erly w arm th , a lo ng w it h a g re at d eal o f

fa it h in m e to h and le th e jo b, M arg e p ro vid ed th e s u p port a nd e nco ura gem ent I n eed ed to g o d ow nsta ir s a nd fa ce m any d if fic ult s it u atio ns, w hic h

began w it h h avin g to s u p erv is e th o se w ho h ad ju st b een m y p la ym ate s th e d ay b efo re .

O n m y fir s t d ay a s a m anager, a w ait r e ss a nd c lo se fr ie nd p ic k ed u p a lo af o f n ew ly m ad e p âté . H eld o nly b y th e tw o e nd s, th e lo ng lo af g ave w ay

in th e m id dle a nd c ra sh ed to th e flo or. T here w ent th e p ro fit s ! W hat in th e w orld w as s h e d oin g s o c are le ssly c arry in g a p âté th at h ad ta k en th e

kit c hen h o urs to m ak e? W hat s h o uld I s a y to o ne o f m y fr ie nd s?

T hen th ere w as th e in co m pete nt F re nch c hef w ho se B and -A id I o nce fo und in th e s o up . N ot o nly h ad h e n o s e nse a b out c o okin g, b ut o n S und ay

m orn in gs— Sund ay w as h is d ay o ff— ju st a s th e b arte nd ers h ad a lo ng lin e o f B lo ody M ary s lin ed u p w it h c o nd im ents o f c ele ry s ta lk s a nd lim es

aw ait in g th e b ru nch r u sh , h e w ould ta k e a s h o w er in h is a p artm ent a b ove th e b ar w it h h is fo ot c la m ped o ver th e d ra in s o th at th e w ate r o verflo w ed

th ro ugh th e c eilin g a nd in to th e d rin k s. T here w ent th e p ro fit s a gain !

O ne o f m y b ig gest c halle nges w as th e fe ro cio us lu nch c hef, Y vo nne L ig hty , w ho h ad te rro riz e d m e w hen I w as a n ew w ait r e ss, a lo ng w it h th e r e st

of th e s ta ff, w it h d ep re catin g in su lt s d eliv ere d in a th und erin g v o ic e. T he s o und o f h er y ellin g a lo ng w it h th e b angin g o f h er o m ele t p ans a gain st th e

sto ve c arrie d a ll th e w ay to m y b ed ro om w in d ow s ix h o use s d ow n th e b lo ck . S he w as s c ary . T he la st m anager h ad s u ccum bed to h er d em and s

th at s h e b e a llo w ed to w atc h s o ap o pera s o n te le vis io n w hile s h e c o oked lu nch. N ow I w ould h ave to ta k e a w ay th e te le vis io n th at s h e g uard ed

lik e a m ad d og a nd m ak e p eace in th e k it c hen.

T he jo b o f m anagin g a r e sta ura nt w as n o t a n e asy o ne, a nd ta k in g th e jo b h ad c erta in ly n o t b een m y c o nsc io us c ho ic e a s a c are er p ath , b ut w hen it

becam e c le ar th at th e S anso m C om mit te e d ep end ed o n fin ancia l c o ntr ib utio ns fr o m L a T erra sse to p ay th e le gal e xp ense s fo r s a vin g o ur b lo ck , I

to ok u p th e c ause . I n o rd er to s a ve m y n ew h o m e a nd th e c o m munit y I h ad c o m e to c are a b out, I n eed ed to tu rn a ro und th e fa ilin g r e sta ura nt a nd

pro duce a h ealt h y p ro fit . T his w as p ro fit w it h p urp ose — one I c o m mit te d m yse lf to w ho le hearte d ly . A lt h o ugh I s till s a w m y jo b a t L a T erra sse a s te m pora ry , I th re w m yse lf in to m y w ork le arn in g h o w to ru n th e c o m pany la rg ely b y u sin g m y

co m mon s e nse a nd a lo t o f tr ia l a nd e rro r. B ut I d id fe el th e n eed fo r m ore fo rm al e d ucatio n in b asic a cco untin g a nd s ig ned u p fo r a n e venin g c la ss

at th e W harto n b usin ess s c ho ol. I w as s u rp ris e d w hen I r e ceiv ed a n A in a s u b je ct I h ad a ssu m ed w ould b e d if fic ult fo r m e, p erh ap s s till c lin gin g to

th e 1 950s n o tio ns th at g ir ls w ere n o t g o od a t m ath a nd th at fin ancia l is su es w ere b est le ft to th e m enfo lk . N ow I fo und m yse lf fa sc in ate d to le arn

ab out th e b ala nce s h eet a nd th e p ro fit a nd lo ss s ta te m ent— to ols I p ut rig ht to u se a t L a T erra sse . W ho w ould h ave th unk it ? I c usto m iz e d o ur

fin ancia l s ta te m ents to b ette r s e rv e m y d ecis io n m ak in g, s e p ara tin g th e b evera ge s a le s a nd e xp ense s in to d is tin ct c ate go rie s o f b eer, liq uo r, b ottle d

w in e, a nd h o use w in e, b ecause d if fe re nt c o st- o f- g o ods-so ld p erc enta ges w ere e xp ecte d in e ach a re a.

It w as a n e xcit in g tim e e ach m onth w hen th e fin ancia ls a rriv ed fr o m th e a cco unta nt a nd I c o uld s e e h o w w e d id . J u st a s I h ad h ung b ase b all b attin g

avera ges o n m y w all a s a c hild , I m ad e c harts to tr a ck th e s a le s a nd p ro fit in e ach c ate go ry a nd p oste d th em o n th e w all o f th e o ffic e I s h are d w it h

M arg e. I w as th rille d to w atc h th e s te ad y im pro vem ent a nd k ep t th in k in g o f m ore a nd m ore w ays to in cre ase s a le s, w hic h I fo und to b e m y s tr o ng

su it a nd m uch m ore fu n th an d ecre asin g e xp ense s.

M anagin g p eo ple w as th e fa r g re ate r c halle nge. T here w as n o h elp fr o m E llio t in le arn in g h o w to b e a g o od m anager. W hen h e m ad e a n in fr e q uent

vis it to to w n fr o m h is h o m e in B osto n, w here h e w as in g ra d uate s c ho ol, h e o fte n d em onstr a te d h o w

not

to m anage p eo ple , th o ugh h e d id in sp ir e a

cle an k it c hen. I o nce d id a d ra w in g o f h im o n h is h and s a nd k nees in sp ectin g th e e q uip m ent w it h w hit e g lo ves a nd a m agnif y in g g la ss.

D esp it e o r m ayb e b ecause o f E llio t’s a ntic s a nd o ff- c o lo r h um or, s u ch a s p re te nd in g to s n eeze a n e sc arg o t o ut o f h is n o se w hile s e ate d a t th e b ar,

th e w ork e nvir o nm ent a t L a T erra sse w hen I a rriv ed w as liv ely , a nd I w ante d to k eep th e in fo rm al, e cle ctic c harm th at m ad e th e re sta ura nt

in te re stin g fo r c usto m ers a nd a fu n p la ce to w ork . Y et I h ad to c re ate o rd er a nd d is c ip lin e to im pro ve th e s e rv ic e a nd fo od a nd tu rn a p ro fit .

T his w as a b ig c hange fo r m e. I h ad b een a p ers o n w ho o fte n m ad e fu n o f r u le s. T he fir s t th in g I d id w hen I g o t to G ir l S co ut c am p e ach y ear w as

to r e ad a ll th e p olic ie s p oste d o n th e w all in th e b unk r o om a nd th en v o w to b re ak th em a ll b efo re I le ft. A nd I a lw ays s u cceed ed . N ow I h ad to

w rit e th e r u le s— and e nfo rc e th em . B ut a t le ast I k new a ll th e tr ic k s. A s a w ait r e ss, I h ad g o ne in to th e w alk -in r e fr ig era to r w here n o o ne c o uld s e e

m e a nd e ate n th e fo rb id den F re nch p astr ie s, w ash in g th em d ow n w it h b ig s w ig s o f s a ngria . I k new a b out th e tr a d it io n a m ong s o m e o f th e s e rv ers

and b arte nd ers to g iv e a w ay fr e e d rin k s a nd fo od to fr ie nd s. N ow it w as m y jo b to c hange th e b ehavio r a nd s to p th e lo sse s.

T ho ugh I h ad b een a n atu ra l le ad er g ro w in g u p in m y n eig hb orh o od a nd a m ong m y c o lle ge fr ie nd s, it w as u su ally a ro und p la yin g g am es, p la nnin g

partie s, o r g ettin g in to s o m e s o rt o f m is c hie f. I h ad n ever ta k en a fo rm al le ad ers h ip r o le in s c ho ol a nd w as r e p elle d b y th e id ea o f b ein g a b oss— a

pers o n I im agin ed a s a la rg e m an in a d ark s u it s it tin g b ehin d a d esk s m okin g a c ig ar a nd lo okin g d ow n h is n o se a t th e “ h elp .” I s till c arrie d a

heig hte ned c o nsc io usn ess a b out th e p ossib ilit y o f a b usin g m y p ow er. I e ven fo und m yse lf a b dic atin g p ow er w hen I a ctu ally n eed ed it , a p ro ble m I

exp erie nced o ccasio nally th ro ugho ut m y c are er b oth in b usin ess a nd in n o np ro fit le ad ers h ip . T his w as p artic ula rly th e c ase w hen d ealin g w it h

asse rtiv e m en, w ho , p erh ap s u nk no w in gly , p ush ed m e a sid e w hen m y o w n a p pro ach a p peare d le ss fo rc efu l. I n eed ed to le arn h o w to s ta nd u p fo r

m yse lf a nd u se m y p ow er w is e ly . T ho ugh I n ever lit u p a c ig ar a nd lo oked d ow n m y n o se , I s o on g o t th e h ang o f b ein g th e b oss.

M y fir s t s h o w dow n h ap pened w it h a b ig , b urly b arte nd er. I n o rd er to in cre ase s a le s, I h ad c o m e u p w it h th e id ea o f b uyin g a b ab y g ra nd p ia no fo r

th e d in in g r o om , s o th at w e c o uld h ave e nte rta in m ent d urin g d in ner a nd a ls o b uild a la te n ig ht c ro w d. A fte r d in ner w hen th e d in in g r o om c lo se d , th e

bar w as a lw ays p ack ed to th e g ills , a nd I s a w th e e m pty d in in g ro om a s a m is se d o pportu nit y . A t fir s t, th e b arte nd ers d id n’t s e e it th at w ay,

th in k in g th at m y p la n to e xte nd th e d in in g h o urs w ould ta k e b usin ess a w ay fr o m th e b ar. W hen th e b ig , b urly b arte nd er r e fu se d to m ak e d rin k s fo r

th e w ait r e ss w ork in g th e n ew la te s h if t in th e d in in g r o om , I r e aliz e d I h ad to fir e h im . I th in k I w as m ore s u rp ris e d th an h e w as w hen I s a id , “ G et

out! ”

T he n ext b ig c hange fo r th e b arte nd ers c am e w hen I p ro m ote d th e o nly fe m ale , C ath erin e A ustin F it ts , to b e b ar m anager. I t w asn ’t b ecause s h e

w as fe m ale , b ut b ecause I s a w h er a s b ein g th e m ost c ap ab le p ers o n fo r th e jo b. T he b arte nd ers s o on c am e a ro und w hen s h e im ple m ente d s o m e

gre at n ew id eas a nd w e d evelo ped a ro ck in g la te n ig ht b usin ess th at to ta lly fille d th e d in in g ro om a s w ell a s th e b ar, d ra m atic ally in cre asin g th eir

tip s. ( S om e th ir ty y ears la te r, a fte r C ath erin e h ad s ta rte d h er o w n c o m pany, S ola ri, to g uid e fin ancia l in vestm ents , o ur p ath s c ro sse d a gain a ro und

our s h are d in te re st in s m all b usin ess a nd b uild in g c o m munit y w ealt h .)

I b egan to d evelo p a m anagem ent s ty le I fe lt c o m fo rta b le w it h , w hic h I c am e to d esc rib e a s a b ala nce b etw een fr e ed om a nd s tr u ctu re , in d iv id ualit y

and c o nfo rm it y , sp onta neit y a nd d is c ip lin e. I w ante d to c re ate a w ork pla ce th at p ro vid ed e m plo yees th e m axim um a m ount o f fr e ed om to b e

th em se lv es w it h in a c le ar fr a m ew ork o f p olic ie s a nd jo b r e sp onsib ilit ie s.

T hat’s h o w m y m oth er r a is e d h er th re e c hild re n, a nd h o w s h e r a n h er th ir d g ra d e c la ss, w hic h w as th e n o is ie st in I n go m ar E le m enta ry S cho ol— a

kin d o f c o ntr o lle d c hao s, w here le arn in g c o uld th riv e. I la te r r a is e d m y k id s th e s a m e w ay, a nd th at’s e ven h o w I h ave a lw ays tr e ate d m y d ogs—

m axim um fr e ed om w it h in th e c o nfin es o f w hat’s s a fe a nd s u it a b le . ( W ell, m ayb e n o t s u it a b le b y e very o ne’s s ta nd ard s.) M ost im porta ntly , it ’s th e

philo so phy b y w hic h I tr y to m anage m y o w n lif e — a b ala nce o f fr e ed om to b e m yse lf w it h e no ugh s e lf - d is c ip lin e a nd ju st e no ugh c o nfo rm it y to

su cceed in s o cie ty .

M y fir s t le sso n in b ala ncin g fr e ed om a nd c o nfo rm it y c am e in k in d erg arte n. O n th e o penin g d ay o f s c ho ol, I w as y elle d a t, v ery lo ud ly , fo r e atin g m y

co okie a nd m ilk b efo re g ra ce w as s a id . I w as h um ilia te d b y th is tr e atm ent a nd u nhap py a b out g o in g to s c ho ol, s o th e s e co nd d ay, w hen M om

dro pped m e o ff, I s n uck a w ay a nd h id u p o n th e h ill b ehin d th e s c ho ol b uild in g. I a m use d m yse lf b y d ig gin g u p w orm s a nd d ra p in g th em g ently

over th e b ra nches o f a s m all tr e e I w as h id in g b ehin d to s e e w hic h c o uld w ig gle o ff fir s t, b ut fin ally I g o t b ore d a nd w ante d to s e e w hat th e o th er

kid s w ere d oin g. I c re p t u p to th e w in d ow a nd p eek ed in to fin d th ey w ere p la yin g m usic al c hair s — my fa vo rit e g am e— so I ra n in to jo in th e

gro up . T hat w as m y fir s t e xp erie nce o f g iv in g u p fr e ed om fo r s o cia liz a tio n, p la yin g b y th e r u le s s o I c o uld g ain th e jo y o f c o m munit y . A nd m ayb e it

w as th en I b ecam e d ete rm in ed to s o m ed ay h ave a c are er th at a llo w ed m e to e at w henever I w ante d .

N ow I w as a p ply in g th is th eo ry o f b ala ncin g fr e ed om w it h c o nstr a in t to th e re sta ura nt b usin ess. I h ad b een in re sta ura nts th at e xem plif ie d e ach extr e m e— to o m uch co nfo rm it y and str u ctu re , w hic h in hib it s in d iv id ualit y and cre ate s a stif f, b orin g atm osp here ; o r to o m uch fr e ed om and

in d iv id ualit y , w here th in gs g et o ut o f c o ntr o l a nd y o u w ond er if y o u w ill e ver g et y o ur fo od. L a T erra sse w as a b it th at w ay w hen I fir s t a rriv ed . I

re m em ber a tim e a s a w ait r e ss w hen I s a t o n a c usto m er’s la p a nd d ra nk h is g in a nd to nic ! T ho ugh r id in g th at e d ge b etw een c o ntr o l a nd fr e ed om

w as n o t th e e asie st w ay to m anage a b usin ess, fo r m e it w as th e

only w ay

to m anage.

Y ears la te r, I w as in tr ig ued to fin d th at th is c o ncep t e xis ts in n atu re , w hic h is lik ely w hy it c am e in tu it iv ely to m e. S is te r M ir ia m M acG illis , th e

fo und er a nd d ir e cto r o f G enesis F arm , a n E arth lit e ra cy c ente r in N ew J e rs e y, in tr o duced m e to th e w ork o f T ho m as B erry , th e C ath o lic p rie st

w ho d esc rib ed h im se lf a s a n “ E arth s c ho la r.” L is te nin g to th e ta p es o f h is ta lk s a t G enesis F arm , I d is c o vere d th at, a cco rd in g to B erry , th e te nsio n

betw een fr e ed om a nd c o nstr a in t is , in fa ct, a n atu ra l p heno m eno n. B erry p oin ts o ut th at E arth w as c re ate d b y th e p erfe ct b ala nce b etw een th e

energ ie s w it h in th e E arth p ush in g o ut a nd th e c o nstr a in t im pose d b y g ra vit y th at c o nta in s th at e nerg y h o ld in g it a ll to geth er. A d egre e o f d if fe re nce

one w ay o r th e o th er w ould e it h er c o lla p se o r e xp lo de E arth . T hat p erfe ct te nsio n is p erp etu ate d in to in fin it y , a nd it is a t th at p oin t o f te nsio n w here

cre ativ it y th riv es a nd w e e njo y lif e o n E arth .

T hat is ju st w here I w ant to liv e m y o w n lif e — at th at p erfe ct p oin t o f te nsio n b etw een fr e ed om a nd c o nstr a in t w here c re ativ it y lie s. A nd I b elie ve

th at is th e s a m e p oin t a t w hic h a b usin ess th riv es. O ddly e no ugh, I d is c o vere d m any y ears la te r th at a no th er h ero o f m in e, E . F . S chum acher,

auth o r o f

Sm all I s B ea utif u l

, h ad a s im ila r o utlo ok w hen h e s a id “ a ny o rg aniz a tio n h as to s tr iv e c o ntin uo usly fo r th e o rd erlin ess o f o rd er a nd th e

dis o rd erlin ess o f c re ativ e fr e ed om .”

T o e xp la in m y e vo lv in g m anagem ent p hilo so phy to m y s ta ff, I w ro te th e

In tr o ductio n t o L a T erra sse f o r N ew S ta ff

, w hic h c o nta in ed a ll th e r u le s

and re gula tio ns I w as im ple m entin g as w ell as enco ura gem ent to b e auth entic ally o ne’s se lf and to p artic ip ate in m ak in g su ggestio ns fo r

im pro vem ents in s y ste m s a nd r u le s. I w ro te a th o ro ugh jo b d esc rip tio n fo r w ait r e ssin g th at e ven h ad a ta b le o f c o nte nts a nd a n in d ex, a s I h ad d one

w it h th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

, a nd it w as ju st a b out a s th ic k . M y o nce-e m pty d esk w as s o on b ulg in g w it h jo b d esc rip tio ns I w ro te fo r e very

posit io n a s I le arn ed th em , a lo ng w it h fo rm s I d esig ned fo r ta k in g r e se rv atio ns, k eep in g in vento ry a nd o rd erin g s u p plie s, s e atin g c harts I d re w fo r

each d in in g r o om , c harts tr a ck in g c o sts in e ach d ep artm ent, a nd s a le s in e ach c ate go ry a t v ario us tim es o f th e d ay— all th is b efo re c o m pute rs .

I w as s o h ap py to s e e th e re su lt s o f m y h ard w ork : T he s a le s th at h ad b een s ta gnant fo r y ears w ere c lim bin g, a nd c o sts w ere c o m in g in to lin e.

M ost o f a ll, I w as p ro ud th at th e p ro fit s I e arn ed w ere u se d to d efe nd o ur b lo ck .

M eanw hile , e ffo rts o n th e S anso m C om mit te e to ok a b ig ju m p fr o m la w su it s to s tr e et c o m bat. W hile th e r o w w here I liv ed o n S anso m S tr e et w as

still o ccup ie d , th e re sid ents a nd s to re fr o nt b usin esse s b ehin d u s o n th e s o uth h alf o f o ur b lo ck , th e 3 400 b lo ck o f W aln ut S tr e et, h ad ju st b een

evic te d . W ors e w as to c o m e.

E arly o ne m orn in g, I h eard a r u m blin g fr o m b ehin d m y r o w h o use h o m e. R unnin g to th e r e ar w in d ow , o pen to c atc h th e s u m mer m orn in g b re eze , I

stu ck m y h ead o ut to d is c o ver a b ulld oze r g rin d in g it s w ay u p th e b ack a lle y. I w atc hed in h o rro r a s it b egan r a m min g in to th e r e ar o f a h o use in th e

ro w b ehin d m in e. B ric k s b egan to to pple , a nd a c lo ud o f d ust p artia lly h id th e g ap in g h o le in th e w all. T he d evelo pers w ere m ak in g th eir m ove to

cle ar th e la nd . M cD onald ’s a nd D unk in ’ D onuts w ere a t th e d oor.

I fle w d ow n th e s ta ir s a nd u p th e s tr e et to L a T erra sse . B urs tin g in to th e k it c hen, I y elle d o ut to E llio t, w ho h ap pened to b e d ow n fr o m B osto n a nd

w as r e p air in g a s to ve, to c all o ur la w yer a s I r a ced to th e b ack a lle y. R ound in g th e c o rn er, I s a w th e b ulld oze r p re p arin g to r a m a no th er h o le , th is

tim e in th e b ack o f a b uild in g th at, u ntil th e re cent e vic tio n, h ad h o use d a lo cally o w ned m en’s c lo th in g s to re . I ra n d ow n th e a lle y y ellin g a nd

w avin g m y a rm s a nd w it h o ut a s e co nd th o ught la y d ow n in fr o nt o f th e r o arin g b ulld oze r, b lo ck in g it s a tta ck .

F ortu nate ly , th e d riv er s to pped a nd c alle d it a d ay. H ow c o uld h e n o t w hen a tw enty -so m eth in g b lo nd e in c uto ff je ans a nd T -sh ir t la y in h is p ath ?

Turn s o ut h e h ad a cco m plis h ed a la rg e p art o f h is a ssig nm ent. T he d evelo per’s s tr a te gy, it s o on b ecam e c le ar, w as to ir re p ara b ly d am age th e b ack

of e ach b uild in g o n th e r o w b efo re o ur c o m munit y g ro up c o uld file fo r a r e str a in in g o rd er. F or th e m om ent, I h ad m anaged to h alt th e d evelo per’s

ad vance, a nd w e b egan th e lo ng p ro cess o f le gal a p peals to s a ve o ur b lo ck .

Tia nanm en S quare it w as n o t. B ut, e ventu ally , I c am e to u nd ers ta nd th at m y a ct o f c iv il d is o bed ie nce in o ur c o m munit y ’s s tr u ggle to p ro te ct o ur

ho m es a nd s m all b usin esse s fr o m th e o nsla ught o f c hain s to re s w as a ls o a fig ht fo r d em ocra cy, a nd a n a ct fo r p eace a s w ell.

O ur la w yer s u cceed ed in g ettin g a r e str a in in g o rd er to h o ld o ff d em olit io n w hile h e file d o ur a p peal. W e e nd ed u p a p pealin g a ll th e w ay to th e U S

S up re m e C ourt. W hen, a b out a y ear la te r, th e h ig hest c o urt r e je cte d h earin g o ur c ase , w e lo st th e fig ht to s a ve th e W aln ut S tr e et h alf o f o ur b lo ck ,

w hic h w as d em olis h ed to m ak e w ay fo r o ur fu tu re n eig hb ors — Cin nab on, C VS, D unk in ’ D onuts , a nd th e G ap . B ut th e S anso m S tr e et h alf o f th e

blo ck w as s till o urs , a nd w e c o ntin ued to fig ht o n.

E llio t r e m ain ed w ra p ped u p in g ra d uate s tu d ie s, a nd w hen h e w as in to w n h e s p ent h is tim e m eetin g w it h la w yers a nd h o ld in g S anso m C om mit te e

m eetin gs. S in ce th e b usin ess w as im pro vin g, a nd I w as e njo yin g m y jo b, h e h ad n o r e aso n to h ir e s o m eo ne e ls e a nd g ave m e th e fr e ed om to d o

th in gs m y w ay— th o ugh n o t u ntil a fte r I h ad p ut m y fo ot d ow n in a n e arly e xchange. W hen h e c am e b ack to P hila d elp hia fo r h is h o lid ay b re ak th e

fir s t y ear I w as in th e jo b, h e b egan to q uestio n m y p la ns fo r N ew Y ear’s E ve, a lw ays a c ru cia l n ig ht fo r a r e sta ura nt. I to ld h im th at I h ad to d o

th in gs m y w ay o r n o t a t a ll, a nd I s u rp ris e d m yse lf a t h o w s u re I w as o f th is . H e b ack ed o ff a nd g ave m e th at lu ck y b re ak to p ro ve w hat I c o uld d o

in m anagin g th e r e sta ura nt o n m y o w n.

E ven th o ugh I s u cceed ed a nd th e re sta ura nt p ro sp ere d , a ll th e w hile I m enta lly h ad o ne fo ot o ut th e d oor. W hen p eo ple a sk ed w hat I d id fo r a

liv in g, I s till o nly ta lk ed a b out S ynap se a nd m y d esir e to b uild it in to a c are er th at c o m bin ed m y in te re sts in c o m munit y b uild in g, s o cia l a ctiv is m , w rit in g, a nd d esig n. N o m atte r th at th is w as n o th in g m ore th an v o lu nte er w ork . W hy m entio n th e re sta ura nt? A t th at p oin t, I d id n’t re aliz e I’d

sp end a to ta l o f tw elv e y ears a t L a T erra sse , w it h te n o f th o se y ears a s g enera l m anager. T o m e, L a T erra sse w as s till te m pora ry .

I th o ught I w ould s o on b e fin is h ed w it h m y r e sta ura nt “ p ro je ct,” a nd th at w ould b e th at. B ut s lo w ly I b egan to s e e th at m anagin g a b usin ess w as a

never- e nd in g p ro cess, a nd th ere w ould n o t b e a tim e w hen, lik e p ub lis h in g, I w ould s a y to m yse lf “ I’v e fin ally g o t it ju st a s I w ant it : I ’m fin is h ed .”

E ven s o , I c o uld n o t im agin e th at I w ould c o ntin ue a c are er in b usin ess, b ecause I h ad a lw ays w ante d to d o s o m eth in g to m ak e th e w orld a b ette r

pla ce, a nd I s till c o uld n o t e nvis io n a c are er in b usin ess a s a w ay to d o th at.

B ut o ne n ig ht th at c hanged . I w as ta lk in g a t th e b ar w it h a c usto m er a b out m y p are nts ’ a ge, a n e ccentr ic c hara cte r n am ed Is a ac w ho c am e in

alm ost e very n ig ht, p artly b ecause a fte r th e r e sta ura nt c lo se d a nd th e o th er c usto m ers w ere g o ne, I le t h im p la y o ur b ab y g ra nd p ia no . T he b la ck

sh eep o f a d is tin guis h ed P hila d elp hia fa m ily , Is a ac w as v ery in te llig ent a nd h ad g o ne to P rin ceto n, b ut h ad a fe w s tr a nge h ab it s s u ch a s n ever

changin g h is c lo th es. H e d id ta k e a d aily s h o w er a t th e b oard in g h o use w here h e liv ed , b ut th en h e’d p ut o n d ir ty c lo th es, w hic h h e ro ta te d b ut

never w ash ed . I d on’t th in k h e b ru sh ed h is te eth e it h er. I o nce m ad e a n a p poin tm ent fo r h im to v is it th e d entis t, a nd w hen I a rriv ed to p ic k h im u p ,

he w ould n’t c o m e o ut o f h is r o om . A fte r m uch c o axin g, h e o pened th e d oor a nd s to od th ere w it h h is e yes c lo se d . I h ad to le ad h im b y th e h and to

th e d entis t’ s o ffic e w here h e fin ally o pened h is e yes a nd h is m outh fo r a s w eet s o und in g d enta l a ssis ta nt.

Is a ac a p peare d in th e b ar m ost n ig hts a ro und m id nig ht a nd e njo yed g ettin g in to c o nvers a tio ns w it h g ra d uate s c ho ol s tu d ents w hile h e d ra nk b eer,

sm oked C am el c ig are tte s, a nd in cessa ntly d ru m med h is fig ure s o n th e b ar, g lid in g th em b ack a nd fo rth a s th o ugh p la yin g th e p ia no . O ne c o uld n’t

help b ut n o tic e th at Is a ac h ad a m is sin g fin ger, w hic h h e s a id w as lo st in a n a ccid ent. T he lo ss p re vente d h im fr o m b eco m in g a c o ncert p ia nis t,

th o ugh h e h in te d th at it w as se lf - in flic te d . Is a ac fa sc in ate d m e, a nd w e b ecam e fr ie nd s, so I c o nfid ed in h im a b out m y a m biv ale nce to w ard

busin ess. “ It’ s ju st a b out m oney,” I c o m pla in ed o ver a s c o tc h o ne n ig ht. “ H ow c an th is w ork h ave r e al m eanin g in m y lif e ?”

“O h, m y d ear,” I s a ac r e p lie d , “ it ’s n o t lik e th at a t a ll, n o t in th e w ay y o u r u n th e b usin ess. W hen a c o in p asse s fr o m o ne h and to th e n ext, it ’s n o t

th e c o in th at c o unts , b ut th e w arm th o f th e h and .” T his m ay h ave b een a c o rn y s a yin g, b ut it w oke m e u p to s o m eth in g th at w ould g uid e m y c are er

fr o m th en o n— th at b usin ess is n o t a b out m oney, it ’ s a b out r e la tio nsh ip s.

T his s im ple c o ncep t d ra m atic ally c hanged m y v ie w o f b usin ess. M y u ncerta in ty a b out m y a ccid enta l c are er b egan to e vap ora te , a nd I tu rn ed to m y

jo b w it h r e new ed e nerg y. A bout th at tim e, I w as o ffe re d a jo b w ork in g a s a n a rtis t d esig nin g a nd p ain tin g w all m ura ls , a nd I w avere d a b it b efo re

re aliz in g th at th e re sta ura nt b usin ess w as it s e lf a n a rt fo rm fo r m e. I w as a

busin ess a rtis t

. I fin ally a ccep te d th e fa ct th at I lo ved th e re sta ura nt

busin ess, a nd lo oked a t m y p osit io n a t L a T erra sse a s m ore th an a te m pora ry jo b.

M ore im porta ntly , I b egan to re aliz e ju st h o w m uch I re ally c are d a b out th e sta ff a nd th e c usto m ers — so m e b ecam e m y b est fr ie nd s— and I

re aliz e d th at I h ad c re ate d a w ond erfu l w ork pla ce a nd a w arm a nd e xcit in g p la ce fo r c usto m ers to g ath er fo r c o nsis te ntly g o od fo od a nd s e rv ic e. I

had fir e d th e “ B and -A id c hef ” fr o m th e k it c hen, a nd a fte r o ne fa ls e s ta rt w it h a no th er c hef w ho tu rn ed o ut to h ave a n a lc o ho l p ro ble m a nd k ep t a

fr e eze r fu ll o f c arro ts h e h ad c arv ed in to p enis e s to s h o w o ff to th e s a le sm en, I w as lu ck y to fin d a ta le nte d a nd c ap ab le p ers o n to ta k e o ver th e

kit c hen in 1 976. K am ol P utle k b le nd ed c la ssic F re nch c o okin g w it h a s p la sh o f th e c uis in e o f h is n ativ e T haila nd , a nd th is d elic io us fo od, lik e s e a

bass P ro vençal a nd T hai n o odle s a la d , s o c o nsis te ntly a nd th o ughtfu lly p re p are d , fin ally p ut L a T erra sse o n th e m ap a s a fo od d estin atio n.

In th e b egin nin g, I w as o fte n to o a tta ched to m y e m plo yees. I r e m em ber th e d ay a fa vo rit e w ait e r, D ean, le ft to g o b ack h o m e to T exas. I w as in

te ars to s e e h im g o . It w as s o m eth in g I h ad to g et u se d to — th e c o m in g a nd g o in g o f e m plo yees in th e re sta ura nt b usin ess, n o to rio us fo r h ig h

tu rn o ver. I c o nso le d m yse lf b y r e co gniz in g th at e ach tim e s o m eo ne le ft, I h ad th e o pportu nit y to g et to k no w a n ew p ers o n, a nd I b egan to s e e th at

as a b enefit o f th e b usin ess. F or m any y ears a fte r h e le ft, D ean c alle d m e fr o m T exas o n H allo w een to s e e w hat c o stu m e I w as w earin g th at y ear,

w hic h w as a lw ays s o m e s o rt o f a nim al – p ig , c o w , s k unk , r a cco on, a nd , o f c o urs e , d og.

In tim e, I le arn ed n o t to b eco m e s o a tta ched , b ut a lw ays to c are . I to ok lo ts o f p ho to gra p hs o f e very e m plo yee th at w ork ed fo r m e a nd a rra nged

th e p ho to s in a lb um s s o th at I w ould a lw ays r e m em ber e ach p ers o n. I r e co gniz e d e very b ir th d ay a nd , w hen th e o ccasio n a ro se , th re w e ngagem ent

partie s a nd b ab y sh o w ers . T he fir s t n ew p are nt a m ong m y e m plo yees w as a b lo nd -h air e d y o ung m an n am ed T om S le nza te w ho m I h ir e d a s

pro perty m anager to k eep o n to p o f c le anin g a nd r e p air s — because I k new th at w as o ne th in g th at E llio t w ould b e e xam in in g w it h h is m agnif y in g

gla ss! T om s e em ed s o w et b ehin d th e e ars th at it w as a b ig s u rp ris e w hen h e b ro ught in h is w if e a nd n ew born b ab y g ir l to m eet e very o ne. I to ok

pho to s o f T om w it h h is b ab y fo r m y a lb um . T ra gic ally , a fe w y ears la te r, T om p asse d a w ay. H e w as th e fir s t p ers o n I k new to d ie fr o m A ID S.

I e njo yed d is c o verin g u nd eru tiliz e d ta le nt a nd p ro m otin g e m plo yees in to p osit io ns w here th ey c o uld s h in e. I h ad m oved th e p ia no fr o m th e b ar to

th e d in in g ro om a nd h ir e d c la ssic al p ia nis ts to p la y d urin g d in ner a nd ja zz p erfo rm ers to d ra w a la te n ig ht b usin ess. I n o tic ed th at o ne c la ssic al

pia nis t, P asq uale I o cca, w ho se C ho pin w as h eavenly , a ls o h ad a n a p tit u d e fo r fin e w in es. I s o ught h is o pin io n a s I s tr u ggle d to b uild o ur w in e lis t

and e ventu ally a sk ed h im to b e D ir e cto r o f W in e a nd M usic , a p osit io n I c re ate d ju st fo r h im . T hat b egan a p ra ctic e I u se d a gain o ver th e y ears fo r

fillin g m anagem ent p osit io ns: h ir e a ta le nte d p ers o n a nd d esig n th e jo b a ro und th at in d iv id ual’ s s tr e ngth s a nd in te re sts , r a th er th an d efin e th e p osit io n

fir s t a nd fin d s o m eo ne to fill it .

P asq uale te nd ed to b e a q uie t p ers o n w it h o ut a b ig s o cia l lif e , a nd I o fte n d ra gged h im o ff o n a d ventu re s. O nce d ow n a t th e s h o re in C ap e M ay

P oin t, N ew J e rs e y, I b ro ught fiv e o r s ix g ia nt b lo w -u p p la stic a nim al- sh ap ed flo ats fo r rid in g th e w aves. P asq uale h ad a p urp le h ip popota m us, I

to ok th e tu rtle , a no th er fr ie nd to ok a g ir a ffe , a nd s o o n, a nd w e s e t o ut to s e a. S om eho w P asq uale d rif te d a ro und th e je tty a nd o ut o f s ig ht. W hen I

no tic ed h e w as m is sin g, I w ent to s h o re a nd r a n d ow n th e b each p ast th e je tty to lo ok fo r h im . T here I c aught q uit e a s ig ht. A g ro up o f n uns fr o m

th e n earb y c o nvent h ad fo rm ed a h um an c hain to re sc ue P asq uale a nd h is p urp le h ip po w ho w ere b ein g d ash ed a gain st th e ro ck s. T he n uns

dra gged h im to s h o re a nd to ok h im o ff to th e n unnery to b and age h im u p . I r a n b ack to te ll th e o th ers th at th e n uns h ad c ap tu re d P asq uale , a nd w e

all w ent to fe tc h h im . F in ally , h e e m erg ed fr o m th e n unnery c o vere d w it h b and ages b ut w it h n o s e rio us in ju ry , d ra ggin g th e p urp le h ip po b ehin d

him . D esp it e th e h ip po e p is o de, P asq uale w as r e ally q uit e a s o phis tic ate d fe llo w a nd w ent o n to b eco m e a n e xp ert in E uro pean w in es. W hen I le ft L a

Terra sse a nd sta rte d th e W hit e D og C afé , w hic h h ad a n a ll- A meric an w in e lis t, P asq uale m oved to N ew Y ork C it y to ta k e a jo b w it h th e

P ortu guese T ra d e C om mis sio n, b eco m in g k no w n a s th e g re ate st a uth o rit y o n P ortu guese w in es in th e c o untr y , w rit in g b ooks a nd b ro chure s a nd

sp eak in g a ro und th e w orld . W e r e m ain ed d ear fr ie nd s th ro ugho ut h is lif e . T he r e sta ura nt in d ustr y lo st m any fin e p eo ple to th e A ID S e p id em ic . F or

m e it b egan w it h T om in th e e arly 1 980s a nd e nd ed w it h P asq uale in 1 998.

D urin g m y in augura l y ear a s m anager, m y fir s t b ig o utd oor e vent w as th e a nnual B astille D ay p arty o n J u ly 1 4th . T he B astille D ay c ele b ra tio n h ad

alr e ad y b eco m e a tr a d it io n a t L a T erra sse , s o I h ad w it n esse d b oth th e fu n a s w ell a s th e p ro ble m s d urin g m y w ait r e ss d ays. T he p re vio us y ear,

afte r a w ild n ig ht w ait in g ta b le s a nd jo in in g in th e d eb auchery , I h ad fo und m yse lf w ak in g u p o n th e flo or o f th e r e str o om in th e w ee h o urs o f th e

m orn in g. S tu m blin g in to th e k it c hen, I d is c o vere d th e d is h w ash er p asse d o ut o n th e flo or, s u rro und ed b y h eap in g p ile s o f d ir ty p ots , p ans, a nd

dis h es. T he w ho le re sta ura nt w as tr a sh ed , w it h fu rn it u re a sk ew a nd o verflo w in g g arb age c ans sc atte re d a b out a nd n o o th er sta ff in sig ht. N o

w ond er th e r e sta ura nt w as tr a d it io nally c lo se d th e d ay a fte r B astille D ay fo r c le anup a nd r e co very .

N ow it w as m y tu rn to m anage B astille D ay. I w ante d th e o utd oor p arty u nd er th e s ta rs to b e a m agic al e xp erie nce— an o utr a geo usly g o od p arty

fo r m y c usto m ers to re m em ber. B ut I w as d ete rm in ed to m anage th e e vent in a w ay th at d id n o t re q uir e s a crif ic in g a d ay o f b usin ess. I w ante d

every th in g c le aned u p s o th at w e w ere r e ad y to s e rv e lu nch th e n ext d ay.

I b egan b y im agin in g h o w th e e vent w ould lo ok— ho w I w ould a rra nge th e ta b le s c o vere d w it h re d ta b le clo th s a nd d eco ra te d w it h c and le s a nd

bouq uets o f r e d , w hit e , a nd b lu e flo w ers w it h lit tle F re nch fla gs; h o w I w ould s tr in g th e r e d , w hit e , a nd b lu e s tr e am ers a nd b allo ons; a nd w here th e

se rv in g s ta tio ns a nd tr a sh c ans w ould g o . I b ought s o m e F re nch r e co rd s, a nd a s I r e co rd ed th em o nto a d ance ta p e, I im agin ed h o w I w ould m ove

th e c ro w d fr o m d in in g to th e d ance flo or a nd h o w th ey w ould re act to e ach so ng. Ju st a fte r d in ner, I w ould fir s t p la y “L a M ars e illa is e ” a nd

every o ne w ould ris e to sta nd fo r th e F re nch n atio nal a nth em . N ext, w hile e very o ne w as still o n th eir fe et, I w ould p la y a n ir re sis tib le F re nch

cab are t- sty le w alt z w it h a cco rd io n a nd v io lin s. I e nvis io ned th e c o up le s ta k in g to th e d ance flo or a nd w hir lin g a b out to th e e nchantin g w alt z , th en

dancin g to a fe w fa st s o ngs lik e “ M ad ele in e” b y J a cq ue B re l, b efo re fa llin g b ack in to e ach o th er’s a rm s fo r th e e ver s o ro m antic “ L a M er” w it h

C harle s T re net. A fte r th at, a m ix o f F re nch a nd A meric an d ance s o ngs w ould k eep th e d ance flo or h o ppin g u ntil la st c all a t 2 :0 0 a .m ., w hen

cle anup w ould b egin .

W hen J u ly 1 4th a rriv ed , I w as u p a t th e c ra ck o f d aw n to b egin p re p ara tio ns a nd c o uld b are ly c o nta in m y e xcit e m ent a s m y p la ns u nfo ld ed in r e al

lif e . A fte r a d elic io us d in ner e nd in g w it h a r e d , w hit e , a nd b lu e d esse rt o f s tr a w berry a nd b lu eb erry ta rt w it h w hip ped c re am , e very o ne s to od fo r

“L a M ars e illa is e .” T hen ju st a s I im agin ed — I c o uld n’t b elie ve m y e yes; it r e ally w as ju st a s I im agin ed !— when th e w alt z b egan th e c o up le s g lid ed

to th e flo or w alt z in g a nd s w ir lin g a nd s m ilin g a nd w hir lin g. I w as o verjo yed to s e e th e c usto m ers h avin g s u ch a m arv elo us tim e. I w ante d th e s ta ff to

enjo y th em se lv es, to o, a nd e nco ura ged th em to jo in in th e d ancin g. I t w as a w ond erfu l p arty , a nd a t 2 :0 0 a .m . a ll o f th e s ta ff p it c hed in to c le an u p ,

fo ld in g u p th e ta b le s a nd o ver o ne h und re d c hair s a nd s w eep in g th e s tr e et a nd flo ors . W hen e very th in g w as c le aned u p , to m y g re at s u rp ris e a nd

delig ht th e sta ff lif te d m e u p o n th eir sh o uld ers a nd c arrie d m e th ro ugh th e str e et in c ele b ra tio n o f a tr iu m phant n ig ht. I w as fu ll o f jo y a nd

overw helm ed w it h a ffe ctio n fo r th e c usto m ers , th e s ta ff, a nd fo r L a T erra sse . A nd th e n ext d ay, w e o pened o n tim e fo r lu nch, n o t m is sin g a b eat.

C onsta ntly th in k in g u p n ew id eas to p le ase m y L a T erra sse c usto m ers , I b egan d ra w in g m ura ls o n a b la nk w all le ad in g fr o m th e b ar to th e d in in g

ro om d ep ic tin g u p co m in g e vents , a nd fo r V ale ntin e’s D ay d in ner p oste d p ho to gra p hs o f c o up le s w ho h ad m et o r c o urte d a t L a T erra sse a nd la te r

m arrie d , in clu d in g a g ro w in g n um ber o f e m plo yees. I b uilt a m ailin g lis t a nd b egan s e nd in g a q uarte rly n ew sle tte r, b rin gin g n ew s to m y c usto m ers

ab out th e la te st d is h es K am ol h ad p ut o n th e m enu a nd sp ecia l e vents th at b ecam e a nnual tr a d it io ns— win e d in ners to h ig hlig ht fin e v in ta ges

se le cte d b y P asq uale , H allo w een c o stu m e p artie s w it h a s ta ge fo r p erfo rm ances, a nd o utd oor fe stiv als lik e B astille D ay a nd a n ew o ne I c alle d

R um & R eggae, fe atu rin g liv e re ggae m usic a nd o ur lo ng lis t o f d is tin ctiv e ru m s. M usic w as a n im porta nt p art o f re sta ura nt lif e fo r m e, a nd I

dis c o vere d a m ost u nusu al s e venty -tw o-y ear- o ld p ia nis t w ho b ecam e a r e gula r p erfo rm er a t L a T erra sse a nd g ave m e a n ew p ers p ectiv e o n a gin g.

G ertr u d e R ed heffe r w as in th e a ud ie nce a t a p ia no c o ncert w here P asq uale w as p erfo rm in g. W hen w e m et h er a t a r e cep tio n fo llo w in g th e c o ncert

and d is c o vere d th at s h e w as a p ia nis t, to o, P asq uale a nd I in vit e d h er to c o m e b ack to L a T erra sse w it h u s to s e e h o w s h e lik ed o ur S te in w ay

bab y g ra nd . W e w ere s m it te n w it h G ertr u d e’s c harm a nd h er s tr id e-sty le p la yin g— pound in g th e ja zz o f th e 1 920s, 1 930s, a nd 1 940s w it h tu nes

lik e “ S w eet G eo rg ia B ro w n,” “ I G ot R hyth m ,” a nd “ S tu m blin g A ll A ro und .” A nd a lw ays w it h a b ig s m ile a nd s p ark lin g b lu e e yes th at lit u p th e

ro om . F ro m th at n ig ht o n, fo r e ig ht y ears G ertr u d e p la yed a t L a T erra sse e very N ew Y ear’s E ve a s w ell a s N ew Y ear’s D ay b ru nch. D urin g N ew

Y ear’s d in ner, P asq uale p la yed c la ssic al m usic fo r th e fir s t s e t, a nd th en G ertr u d e w ould p la y u ntil m id nig ht, e nd in g w it h “ A uld L ang S yne.” O ne

year, a b usb oy s tr e ak ed n ak ed th ro ugh th e d in in g r o om s a t m id nig ht a nd I w as a fr a id a n e ld erly la d y lik e G ertr u d e m ig ht b e o ffe nd ed b y th e n ud it y .

T hat is u ntil I h eard h er d esc rib e th e o ccasio n to a fr ie nd th e n ext d ay a t b ru nch. W it h a g ig gle , s h e a sk ed h er fr ie nd , “ A nd w here d o y o u th in k h e

tie d a b ig r e d b ow ?!”

S oon G ertr u d e w as p la yin g fo r b ru nch e very M oth er’s D ay a nd F ath er’s D ay a nd o n E aste r S und ay, w hen th e s e rv in g s ta ff w ore r a b bit e ars o r

flo w ere d E aste r b onnets fr o m th e c o lle ctio n I h ung o n m y liv in g r o om w all. W hen s h e w as s e venty -fiv e, I p ro duced a r e co rd c alle d

Gertr u de L iv e

at L a T erra sse

, r e co rd ed b y m y b ro th er J o hn, w ho o w ned a r e co rd in g s tu d io o n th e th ir d flo or a b ove th e r e sta ura nt ( n ext to th e a p artm ent o f th e

sc ulp to r R obin F re d enth al) c alle d T hir d S to ry R eco rd in g. I d re w a p ortr a it o f G ertr u d e fo r th e c o ver o f th e a lb um s h o w in g h er a t th e k eyb oard in

her fa vo rit e o utfit — a re d d re ss w it h w hit e p earls , a nd a lit tle b la ck h at w it h a re d fe ath er. G ertr u d e, a re tir e d te le p ho ne o pera to r, to ld e very o ne

th at I h ad “ d is c o vere d ” h er a s a p ia nis t w hen s h e w as s e venty -tw o, b egin nin g h er la te b lo om in g c are er a s a c afé e nte rta in er w it h h er o w n r e co rd .

In a n ew sp ap er a rtic le a b out h er r e co rd d eb ut, th e r e p orte r c ap tu re d G ertr u d e’s d esc rip tio n o f th e n ig ht w e m et:

“I p la yed fo r o ne a nd a h alf h o urs , d ear,” s h e s a id . “ S he lik ed m e a nd s h e lik ed m y s ty le , a nd fr o m th en o n it w as p artie s, p artie s,

partie s. S atu rd ay n ig ht. S und ay n ig ht. P artie s, p artie s, p artie s. A nd it w as fu n, d ear. I ’v e m ad e a lo t o f fu n fo r m yse lf in m y lif e . A nd th ey te ll m e I ’v e m ad e a lo t o f fu n fo r th em , to o.”

A nd fu n w e s u re d id h ave! T ho ugh w e w ere m ore th an fo rty y ears a p art in a ge, G ertr u d e a nd I b ecam e c lo se fr ie nd s, a nd p eo ple jo ked th at I

tu rn ed u p a t p artie s a cco m panie d b y a n o ld la d y, a b ab y ( w hic h I ’ll g et to in a b it ) , a nd a d og. T he d og w as N ew man, a p art- b eagle s tr a y w ho m I

had re sc ued s e vera l y ears e arlie r w hen h e w as fo ra gin g b y th e g arb age d um pste r a nd w ho re m in d ed m e o f m y c hild ho od b eagle s, P ep py a nd

P ooie . A t th e tim e, I w as s in gle , a nd I n am ed h im “ N ew man,” b ecause h e w as th e n ew m an in m y lif e !

O nce I fe lt s e cure in m y c are er, m y m in d tu rn ed to s ta rtin g a fa m ily . I w as th ir ty -tw o y ears o ld . I t w as tim e to g et o n w it h it . N eil, th e h and so m e,

bro w n-e yed a rc hit e ct w ho se rv ed w it h m e o n th e S anso m C om mit te e, sh are d m y v alu es fo r b uild in g a Ja ne Ja co bs– in sp ir e d c o m munit y o n

S anso m S tr e et. T he fir s t p ers o n I e ver h eard ta lk a b out s o la r h o use s a nd e nerg y e ffic ie ncy w it h c o ncern fo r th e n atu ra l e nvir o nm ent, h e h ad c aught

m y e ye. W e w ere m arrie d L ab or D ay o f 1 978 in a m agic al e vent c ate re d b y th e s ta ff o f L a T erra sse , w hic h c lo se d fo r th e d ay. I c o uld n o t im agin e

gettin g m arrie d a nyw here b ut in th e w oods— a p la ce s a cre d to m e, w here ta ll tr e es c re ate a n atu ra l c ath ed ra l. T he w oods b ehin d N eil’ s p are nts ’

ho use in th e W is sa hic k on V alle y o f n o rth w est P hila d elp hia w as th e p erfe ct p la ce fo r b oth th e w ed din g a nd g ala r e cep tio n. T he w ait e rs , d re sse d in

fo rm al b la ck a nd w hit e fr o m th e n eck d ow n, w ere to pped w it h g ia nt p ap ie r- m âché a nim al h ead s— a b ear, sq uir re l, ra b bit , w olf , e agle , a nd

card in al— as th ey w alk ed th ro ugh th e c ro w d c arry in g la rg e s ilv er tr a ys o f fo od to th e b uffe t a rra nged o n th e d ance flo or w e h ad la id a cro ss th e

w oodla nd la nd sc ap e. I h aule d th e b ab y g ra nd p ia no fr o m L aT erra sse in to th e w oods, a nd o f c o urs e , G ertr u d e p la yed a fe w n um bers lik e “ T ea fo r

T w o” w hen th e d ance b and to ok a b re ak .

O ur d aughte r G ra ce, n am ed a fte r m y m oth er’s m oth er, w as b orn th e n ext y ear. T he b ir th d id n’t c o m e a s s w if tly a s I h ad h o ped . D esp it e m y w ild

dancin g to M oto w n to g et th in gs m ovin g, G ra ce w as th re e w eek s la te . I h ad s to pped c le arin g m y d esk e very n ig ht b efo re g o in g h o m e. A c o up le o f

w eek s la te r, w hen m y w ate r fin ally b ro ke a b out m id nig ht, I in sis te d to N eil th at b efo re g o in g to th e m ate rn it y h o sp it a l, I h ad to g o b ack to th e o ffic e

to c le ar m y d esk . I w ro te n o te s to e ach o f th e m anagers a nd s to pped in th e b ar to s a y g o od-b ye to th e c ro w d a s N eil w ait e d w it h th e c ar r e ad y to

go . W e n eed n o t h ave r u sh ed s in ce it to ok tw enty -fo ur m ore h o urs to p ush o ut th e n early te n p ound b ab y.

I h ad p la nned to ta k e o ff a fe w w eek s a fte r G ra ce w as b orn , w hile E llio t w atc hed o ver th e r e sta ura nt, b ut h e w as im patie nt to g et b ack to N ew

Y ork C it y , w here h e h ad m oved a fte r fin is h in g s c ho ol, a nd h e to ok o ff a fte r a w eek . S o I w ent b ack to w ork , b rin gin g o ne-w eek -o ld G ra ce w it h

m e. B y th en I h ad b een m anagin g th e r e sta ura nt fo r fiv e y ears , w it h fu ll r e sp onsib ilit y fo r th e o pera tio n o f th e b usin ess, a nd E llio t h ad p ro m is e d m e

a p artn ers h ip s ta k e th at w ould b e fo rm aliz e d o nce th e fig ht to s a ve th e b lo ck h ad e nd ed a nd h e w as a b le to r e tr ie ve th e c o m pany s to ck fr o m h is

old er b ro th er, a n a tto rn ey w ho w as h o ld in g th e s to ck in s a fe k eep in g fr o m a p ossib le s u it b y th e u niv ers it y . In th e m eantim e, h e c alle d m e h is

busin ess p artn er a nd I a ssu m ed th e ro le o f c o -o w ner a nd p ro prie tr e ss. M y n ew ro le , c o up le d w it h th e fa ct th at I w ante d to k eep th e b usin ess

ru nnin g w ell, m eant m ate rn it y le ave d id n’t c ro ss m y m in d .

M arg e w as d elig hte d to lo ok a fte r G ra ce in th e o ffic e w hen I w as d ow nsta ir s , a nd a t n ig ht d urin g d in ner s e rv ic e I k ep t G ra ce in a lit tle b ask et o n

to p o f th e p ia no . T he d in in g r o om h o ste sse s, b egin nin g w it h m y c o usin D eb bie , w ho w ork ed p art- tim e, w ould a m use G ra ce b y c arry in g h er a lo ng

w hile s e atin g th e g uests , a nd th e b arte nd ers e njo yed h avin g h er s ta tio ned o n th e b ar, to th e d elig ht o f th eir c usto m ers .

L aw re nce w as b orn tw o y ears la te r, a nd I w ent b ack to w ork in a w eek , b rin gin g h im a lo ng. O nce a gain , it n ever o ccurre d to m e to ta k e a

m ate rn it y le ave, a nd I d id n’t fe el th at I c o uld . It’s m y o ne lif e tim e re gre t— perh ap s lik e m any w ork in g m oth ers — no t to h ave ta k en m ore tim e to

fo cus o nly o n m y c hild re n d urin g th o se e arly y ears . B ut a t le ast I k ep t b oth c hild re n n ext to m e n ig ht a nd d ay fo r th e fir s t n in e o r te n m onth s d urin g

th e b re ast- fe ed in g s ta ge. O ne H allo w een, w hen L aw re nce w as tw o m onth s o ld , I fit h im in to m y c o stu m e b y d re ssin g u p a s a n urs in g m oth er

beagle a nd d re sse d L aw re nce a s m y p up py. W hen a c usto m er r e aliz e d th at L aw re nce w as a r e al c hild , s h e le t o ut a lo ud s c re am .

A s in fa nts , b oth c hild re n c am e a lo ng w it h m e to c o m munit y m eetin gs, to p artie s, a nd o ut to d in ner a t m any d if fe re nt re sta ura nts . D urin g th e d ay

th ey w ere in m y o ffic e a s I w ent a b out m y b usin ess p ayin g b ills , w rit in g r e p orts , a nd m eetin g w it h s ta ff a s I fe d th em , c hanged d ia p ers , a nd r o ck ed

th eir c ra d le w it h m y fo ot. I r e m em ber a b usb oy w ho m any y ears la te r to ld m e h e w as tr a um atiz e d w hen I fir e d h im w hile b re ast- fe ed in g m y b ab y!

In tim e I b egan to r e p re se nt L a T erra sse a s th e c o -o w ner in th e la rg er P hila d elp hia c o m munit y . I s a t o n th e M ayo r’s S m all B usin ess C ouncil fo r

se vera l y ears w here I le arn ed a lo t a b out h o w c it y g o vern m ent fu nctio ns. D urin g th at tim e I e xp erim ente d w it h lo okin g m ore b usin esslik e b y g o in g

to B ro oks B ro th ers ’ w om en’s d ep artm ent a nd b uyin g a n avy b lu e s u it , o xfo rd c lo th s h ir ts , a nd th o se s illy b ow tie s p opula r w it h b usin essw om en in

th e 1 970s w ho w ere tr y in g to fit in to c are ers th at h ad tr a d it io nally b een fo r m en. B ut I w as s o on b ack to je ans a nd c o w gir l b oots .

N ext, I jo in ed m y fir s t b oard o f d ir e cto rs a t B usin ess E xecutiv es fo r N ucle ar A rm s C ontr o l ( B EN AC). S erv in g o n a b oard p ro vid ed m e w it h a n

im porta nt e xp erie nce in le arn in g h o w n o np ro fit s o pera te d a s w ell a s a n u nd ers ta nd in g o f h o w b usin essp eo ple c an w ork to geth er fo r p osit iv e

change. M ost o f th e b oard m em bers w ere m en o f m y fa th er’s g enera tio n. T he fo und ers a nd b oard c o chair s — Jo hn H aas, th e C EO o f R ohm a nd

H aas, a chem ic al m anufa ctu rin g co m pany; and F re d eric k H eld rin g, p re sid ent o f P hila d elp hia N atio nal B ank — had p re vio usly co fo und ed an

org aniz a tio n o f b usin ess e xecutiv es w ho p ub lic ly o ppose d th e V ie tn am W ar b ack in th e 1 960s w hen it w as a r is k y p osit io n to ta k e, e sp ecia lly fo r

F re d , w ho w as v yin g fo r a p ro m otio n to b ank p re sid ent a t th e tim e. I g re atly a d m ir e d J o hn a nd F re d . T hey w ere th e fir s t to s h o w m e h o w b usin ess

le ad ers c o uld d em onstr a te c o m passio n a nd u se th eir v o ic e a nd in flu ence to w ork fo r p eace a nd ju stic e.

B y 1 981, I w as a ccep te d in to a y ear- lo ng p ro gra m c alle d L ead ers h ip , In c. th at e xp ose d y o ung p ro fe ssio nals to c iv ic n eed s s o th at th ey’d b e in clin ed to w ard le ad ers h ip p osit io ns in n o np ro fit s to s e rv e th eir c o m munit ie s. W e fo und o urs e lv es o bse rv in g c it y lif e in d iv ers e w ays— even r id in g

aro und th e c it y a ll n ig ht lo ng in th e b ack se at o f a p olic e c ar. O ne e xp erie nce in p artic ula r s tr e ngth ened b oth m y d esir e to h elp p eo ple in n eed a nd

m y r e so lv e to fin d a w ay to b uild a m ore ju st a nd in clu siv e c o m munit y .

It w as c lo se to H allo w een w hen a s m all g ro up o f u s w ere d riv en b y v an to a n in ner c it y n eig hb orh o od to m eet w it h le ad ers o f a n A fr ic an A meric an

co m munit y a sso cia tio n. A s w e w alk ed fr o m th e p ark ed v an, I n o tic ed th at m any o f th e h o use s in th e n eig hb orh o od w ere b oard ed u p o r s e p ara te d

by v acant lo ts h eap ed w it h tr a sh . I fe lt a s e nse o f d esp air a nd h o pele ssn ess w alk in g a lo ng th e s id ew alk s lit te re d w it h b ro ken g la ss, im agin in g th at

th e n eig hb orh o od w as h o m e to d ru g d eale rs a nd c rim in als . W e s to pped b efo re a b uild in g th at, lik e m any o th ers , h ad b oard ed -u p w in d ow s o n th e

up per flo ors a nd lo oked to b e v acant. B ut a s w e e nte re d , I h eard th e s o und o f m usic th at b ecam e lo ud er w hen th e d oor to th e b ase m ent w as

opened a nd w e w alk ed d ow nsta ir s . T he lig hts w ere b rig ht in a r o om a d orn ed w it h c o lo re d d eco ra tio ns a nd fille d w it h h ap py c hild re n d re sse d in

H allo w een c o stu m es la ughin g a nd p la yin g. A g ro up o f w om en w ere s e rv in g tr e ats to th e k id s a nd le ad in g th em in g am es.

I w as a sto nis h ed b y th e c o ntr a st to th e b le ak s tr e et lif e o uts id e. H ere w ere m oth ers d oin g a ll th at th ey c o uld to c re ate a w ho le so m e a nd h ap py

exp erie nce fo r th eir y o ung c hild re n, s tr u gglin g to c re ate a lif e r ic h in lo ve a nd c are w it h in a c o m munit y s u ffe rin g th e e ffe cts o f e xtr e m e p overty a nd

negle ct. H ow s tr o ng th ese m oth ers w ere . H ow h um ble d I fe lt . F ro m th at p oin t o n, w henever I s e e n eig hb orh o ods w it h b oard ed w in d ow s a nd

tr a sh -str e w n str e ets , I re m em ber th at as in any neig hb orh o od th ere are lo vin g p are nts and in no cent, sw eet child re n liv in g th ere — who are ,

unfo rtu nate ly , m ore lik ely th an I to b e th e v ic tim s o f c rim e a nd v io le nce.

E xp erie nces lik e th is o ne fe d m y lo ngin g to b e o f g re ate r s e rv ic e. A s m uch a s I lo ved th e r e sta ura nt b usin ess, I d id n’t w ant m y c are er ju st to b e

ab out c ele b ra tio n, th e ic in g o n th e c ak e o f lif e ; I w ante d to b rin g p osit iv e c hange to th e w orld . T ho ugh I w as s e cure a nd h ap py in m y c o m munit y o n

S anso m S tr e et, th ere w as s o m uch s u ffe rin g in o th er p arts o f th e c it y a nd a ro und th e g lo be. E ventu ally , a s m all o pportu nit y e nte re d m y lif e , s h o w in g

m e h o w I m ig ht b oth r u n a b usin ess a nd e ngage in s o cia l c hange a t th e s a m e tim e.

It b egan w hen a fly er s ta p le d to a p ho ne p ole o n S anso m S tr e et c aught m y e ye. T he p oste r a nno unced a s lid e s h o w p re se nta tio n b y a ctiv is ts w ho

had ju st r e tu rn ed fr o m a fa ct- fin d in g tr ip to w it n ess th e c iv il w ar in E l S alv ad or. I d id n’t k no w m uch a b out C entr a l A meric a, b ut I k new th ere w as

co ntr o vers y a b out P re sid ent R eagan’s p olic y to w ard E l S alv ad or, a nd I d ecid ed to a tte nd th e ta lk a nd fin d o ut w hat w as g o in g o n d ow n th ere .

A fte r th e tr a vesty o f V ie tn am , I w ante d to s ta y in fo rm ed a b out w hat m y g o vern m ent w as u p to in fo re ig n c o untr ie s.

T he s lid e s h o w w as h eld in th e h o m e o f a n e ld erly c o up le , th e M ille rs , w ho h ad tu rn ed th e liv in g r o om o f th eir s ta te ly h o use in C ente r C it y in to a

sm all a ud it o riu m , c o m ple te w it h a s e co nd flo or b alc o ny. A t th e p re se nta tio n, I w as h o rrif ie d to h ear th at th e U nit e d S ta te s w as s u p portin g th e

go vern m ent o f E l S alv ad or a nd th at th e g o vern m ent’s m ilit a ry w as im plic ate d in “ d eath s q uad s” th at m urd ere d th o usa nd s o f in no cent S alv ad ora n

civ ilia ns a nd h ad a lle ged ly c o m mit te d th e ra p e a nd m urd er o f fo ur A meric an n uns. H ow h o rrib le ! If th is w ere tr u e— and I w asn ’t s u re y et— fe w

A meric ans k new a b out it , n o r u nd ers to od th at o ur ta x d olla rs w ere b ein g u se d to s u p port a re gim e th at u se d “ d eath s q uad s” to re p re ss it s o w n

peo ple .

S oon a fte r s e ein g th e s lid e s h o w , o ne o f th e L a T erra sse w ait e rs in tr o duced m e to h is fr ie nd D avid F unk ho use r, a n E pis c o pal p rie st a nd fo und er o f

th e C entr a l A meric an O rg aniz in g P ro je ct, w hic h e d ucate d p eo ple a b out th e p olit ic al re alit ie s in C entr a l A meric a. D avid w as h o stin g a g ro up o f

S alv ad ora n p olit ic al re fu gees m arc hin g fr o m N ew Y ork C it y to W ash in gto n D C to p ro te st th e U S s u p port o f th eir re p re ssiv e g o vern m ent. T hey

w ere s ta yin g a t a c hurc h ju st u p th e s tr e et fr o m th e r e sta ura nt a nd h ad n o m oney fo r e xp ense s. D avid a sk ed if w e w ould c o ntr ib ute fo od fr o m th e

re sta ura nt. S in ce L a T erra sse d id n o t o pen u ntil lu nch, I s u ggeste d th at th e g ro up o f tw enty S alv ad ora ns c o m e fo r a h o t b re ak fa st. I f D avid w ould

co ok, I w ould s e rv e th e m eals .

W hen th e S alv ad ora ns a rriv ed in b and anas, s tr a w h ats , a nd b la ck b oots , I c o uld n’t h elp b ut th in k w hat a c o ntr a st th ey w ere to o ur u su al c lie nte le .

T hey w ere r e fu gees in a p olit ic al c o nflic t in w hic h m y c o untr y — I w as c le ar a b out th is n o w — su p porte d th e o pposin g s id e.

A fte r a h earty b re ak fa st a nd g o od-b ye h ugs, th e tr a vele rs fo rm ed a b rig ad e o ut o n S anso m S tr e et, w it h th e le ad m arc hers h o ld in g a w id e b anner

acro ss th e fr o nt c allin g fo r th e U nit e d S ta te s to e nd it s in vo lv em ent in E l S alv ad or. T hey w aved g o od-b ye a nd m arc hed d ow n S anso m S tr e et,

co ntin uin g th eir lo ng jo urn ey to W ash in gto n D C.

T ho ugh w e lo oked s o d if fe re nt a nd s p oke a d if fe re nt la nguage, I w as s u rp ris e d to fe el s u ch a s tr o ng c o nnectio n to th e S alv ad ora ns a nd th eir c ause .

T he w ord th at c am e in to m y m in d to d esc rib e th e fe elin g w as “ so lid arit y .” I h ad a lw ays a sso cia te d th at w ord w it h s o cia lis m o r e ven c o m munis m ,

but I w as b egin nin g to u nd ers ta nd th at w hat w as o fte n la b ele d a s c o m munis t w as a ctu ally s im ply a s tr o ng s e nse o f c o m munit y a ro und c o m mon

valu es. T he tr a d it io nal in d ig eno us p re fe re nce fo r c o m munal a ctiv it ie s d id n o t m ean th ey w ere c o m munis t, a s s o m e p olit ic ia ns in b oth c o untr ie s

su ggeste d . I n fa ct, th ey w ere s tr u gglin g fo r d em ocra cy.

T his v o lu nte er b re ak fa st s o lv ed a p ro ble m th at h ad b ed evile d m e fo r s o m e tim e: W it h a ll th e w ork it to ok to r u n a s m all b usin ess, h o w c o uld th ere

be tim e to v o lu nte er fo r a ll th e o th er th in gs I c are d a b out? S om e p eo ple d id v o lu nte er w ork in th e e venin gs a nd w eek end s, b ut in th e re sta ura nt

busin ess th ere w as n o d ow ntim e. T he a nsw er w as c le ar: A ddre ss th e is su es I c are a b out th ro ugh th e b usin ess.

I im med ia te ly p ut th is c o ncep t to u se a nd h eld m y fir s t s o cia l c hange e vent fo r m y c usto m ers — a r e cep tio n fo r C harlie C le m ents , a m ed ic al d octo r

w ho w as w ork in g in w ar- to rn E l S alv ad or. A s a g ra d uate o f th e A ir F orc e A cad em y w ho h ad flo w n m any m is sio ns in th e V ie tn am W ar, h e h ad

decid ed th e w ar w as im mora l a nd h ad r e fu se d to fly m is sio ns s u p portin g th e in vasio n o f C am bodia . A s a n ew ly tr a in ed p hysic ia n, h e s a w th at th e

villa ges h e se rv ed in E l S alv ad or w ere b ein g b om bed b y so m e o f th e sa m e a ir c ra ft h e h ad p re vio usly flo w n in V ie tn am . D r. C le m ents h ad a

m essa ge o f p eace a nd n o nvio le nce I w ante d m y c usto m ers to h ear.

M y e venin g a t th e M ille rs p ro vid ed a m odel fo r m e. O bse rv in g h o w th ey u tiliz e d th eir liv in g r o om a s a g ath erin g p la ce fo r a p re se nta tio n s h o w ed

m e h o w it c o uld b e d one a t L a T erra sse . Y ears la te r, I w ould fo llo w th e M ille r m odel m ore fu lly w hen I b egan e d ucatio nal p ro gra m s a t th e W hit e D og C afé to d is c uss th e is su es o f th e d ay a nd h ear s to rie s th at d em onstr a te d o ur in te rc o nnectio n w it h o th ers a t h o m e a nd a b ro ad .

In o ne fo rm o r a no th er, in th e y ears to c o m e, I fo und th at I c o uld a d dre ss a ll th e is su es I c are d a b out

th ro ugh m y b usin ess

. I t w as h ere th at I h ad

th e fo cus o f tim e, s p ace, re so urc es, a nd p eo ple , a nd c o uld u se th em e ffe ctiv ely . I w as e xcit e d to e xp lo re th e m any p ossib ilit ie s o f th is u niq ue

co m bin atio n o f g o od fo od w it h s o cia l a ctiv is m .

A ro und th is tim e, a fte r m any y ears o f c o ntin ued le gal s tr u ggle a nd g ro w in g p ub lic s u p port to “ sa ve th e b lo ck ,” o ur c o m munit y g ro up fin ally w on a

se ttle m ent th at s p are d th e 3 400 b lo ck o f S anso m S tr e et fr o m th e w re ck in g b all. T ho ugh w e w ere d is a p poin te d to h ave lo st th e W aln ut S tr e et

build in gs, w e w ere o verjo yed to s a ve S anso m S tr e et. A s p art o f th e s e ttle m ent, N eil a nd I , a lo ng w it h o th er m em bers o f th e S anso m C om mit te e,

w ere e ach g iv en th e o pportu nit y to p urc hase a nd r e sto re o ne o f th e h o use s w e h ad fo ught s o lo ng to s a ve. A t th e s a m e tim e, th e u niv ers it y g ain ed

develo pm ent rig hts fo r th e W aln ut S tr e et s id e, w here it d em olis h ed th e h o use s— whic h, th o ugh in d is re p air , h ad b een fa r g ra nd er th an th o se o n

S anso m S tr e et— to b uild in th eir p la ce a s h o ppin g c ente r w it h o ffic es a nd r o om s fu ll o f c o m pute rs a b ove. T he n ew s h o ps a nd o ffic es e m ptie d o ut

at 5 :0 0 o r 6 :0 0 p .m ., a fe w o f th e fa st- fo od p la ces s ta yed o pen u ntil 1 0:0 0, b ut a fte r th at th e W aln ut S tr e et s id e o f th e b lo ck w as d ead . T he o nly

sig ns o f tw enty -fo ur- h o ur o ccup ancy w ere th e e no rm ous a ir - c o nd it io nin g a nd h eatin g u nit s o n th e ro of, w hic h ro are d th eir g ra y n o is e 2 4/7 .

C onvers e ly , th e S anso m S tr e et sid e o f th e b lo ck re m ain s to th is d ay fu ll o f lif e d ay a nd n ig ht— care d fo r, w atc hed o ver, a nd u tiliz e d b y th e

sh o pkeep ers a nd r e sid ents . J a ne J a co bs w ould b e p ro ud .

A fte r th e se ttle m ent, th e re sid ents and b usin esse s o f S anso m S tr e et enjo yed go od re la tio ns w it h a new ad m in is tr a tio n at th e U niv ers it y o f

P ennsy lv ania a nd w it h th e a d m in is tr a tio ns th at fo llo w ed . E ventu ally o ur b lo ck , w it h it s a rra y o f u niq ue lo cally o w ned s h o ps a nd re sta ura nts w it h

ho m es ab ove, w as held up b y th e univ ers it y as a m odel o f vib ra nt cit y liv in g w here th ey o fte n b ro ught vis it in g d ig nit a rie s and ente rta in ed

pro sp ectiv e s tu d ents a nd fa cult y .

P artic ip atin g in th e S anso m C om mit te e s h o w ed m e th e p ow er o f w ork in g in a g ro up a lig ned a ro und a s h are d v is io n. E ach m em ber c o ntr ib ute d h is

or h er o w n u niq ue ta le nt, c o nnectio n, o r r e so urc e to th e c ause . A L a T erra sse b usb oy w ork in g h is w ay th ro ugh P enn L aw S cho ol h ad b eco m e a n

assis ta nt to o ur la w yer. A r e gula r c usto m er w it h a n a d vertis in g a gency h ad d esig ned o ur “ S ave th e B lo ck ” b utto ns a nd T -sh ir ts . A nd w e a ll h ad

fu n w ork in g to geth er. I n th e y ears to c o m e, th is e xp erie nce, c o lla b ora tin g a s a te am a ro und a s h are d v is io n, g ave m e in sig ht in to m y r o le a s a le ad er

in th e lo cal liv in g e co no m y m ovem ent.

W hen I c o m ple te d th e p urc hase o f m y h o use a t 3 420 S anso m S tr e et in th e e arly 1 980s, I h ad th e id ea o f u sin g m y s to re fr o nt s p ace a s a w ay to

build b usin ess fo r L a T erra sse b y s ta rtin g a c o ffe e s h o p th ere a nd th en m ovin g th e b usin ess u p th e s tr e et w hen th e h o use n ext to L a T erra sse

becam e a vaila b le fo r th e re sta ura nt’s e xp ansio n. T o a la rg e e xte nt, th e o nly tim es L a T erra sse w as n o t a lr e ad y b usy w ere a t b re ak fa st a nd th e

te atim e lu ll b etw een lu nch a nd d in ner. A c o ffe e s h o p w ould fill th o se g ap s. T his w as lo ng b efo re S ta rb uck s a nd th e c o ffe e p heno m ena r e ached o ur

neig hb orh o od, b ut I c o uld s e e th at th e u niv ers it y c o m munit y w ould b enefit b y a c harm in g c o ffe e s h o p w it h d elic io us fr e sh m uffin s, a nd I lik ed th e

id ea o f h avin g a n o nalc o ho lic a lt e rn ativ e to th e b ar s c ene.

I w as o verjo yed th at th e b lo ck fig ht w as o ver a nd th at w e w ere ta k in g tit le to th e h o use s. E very th in g se em ed to b e g o in g m y w ay. I h ad a

flo uris h in g r e sta ura nt b usin ess w it h p la ns to e xp and a nd h ad fin is h ed m y th ir d S ynap se p ub lic atio n,

Phila delp hia R eso urc e G uid e

, u p date d fr o m

th e m ore 1 960s n am e o f

Whole C it y C ata lo g

. In m y p ers o nal lif e , I h ad tw o g re at k id s, G ra ce, n o w fo ur y ears o ld , a nd L aw re nce, tw o y ears

old . N eil, m y a rc hit e ct h usb and , w as a b le to b uy th e h o use n ext to m in e ( w here s c ulp to r R obert E ngm an o nce h ad h is s tu d io b efo re m ovin g o ut o f

th e c it y ) w it h p la ns to c o nnect th e u p per flo ors to c re ate a la rg er h o m e fo r o ur fa m ily o f fo ur.

B ut th ere w as h ard n ew s ju st a ro und th e c o rn er. E llio t h ad c hanged h is p la ns a nd d ecid ed to m ove b ack to P hila d elp hia to ru n th e re sta ura nt

him se lf . N ow w it h a s u ccessfu l b usin ess m odel th at w as m ak in g m oney, h e p la nned to tu rn L a T erra sse in to a n atio nal c hain .

A c h ain , o f a ll

th in gs!

He w as a lr e ad y u sin g o ur p ro fit s to h ir e a n o ld fr ie nd w ho w as h elp in g h im fin d a lo catio n fo r th e s e co nd L a T erra sse in C am brid ge,

M assa chuse tts . A s fo r m e, E llio t n o lo nger s a w th e n eed fo r m e to r u n th e r e sta ura nt, m uch le ss to c o ntin ue a s a b usin ess p artn er a nd p ut s to ck in

m y n am e a s h e h ad p ro m is e d . T he te m pora ry jo b th at h ad tu rn ed in to a te n-y ear- lo ng c o m mit m ent, d urin g w hic h tim e I in cre ase d s a le s fr o m

$200,0 00 to $ 2,0 00,0 00 a nnually w it h a h ealt h y p ro fit , w as s u d denly o ver. I h ad fo rg o ne r a is e s a nd b onuse s a s p art o f th e p ath to p artn ers h ip —

th e o ne I h ad fa ile d to g et in w rit in g. W hen it c am e tim e to fo rm aliz e th e p artn ers h ip , E llio t’s o ffe r to m e w as s ta rtlin g: T he m uffin a nd c o ffe e

busin ess I h ad ju st s ta rte d a s p art o f L a T erra sse w ould b e m in e.

Pro prie tr e ss o f a m uffin s h op? G iv e m e a b re a k!

I w as in s h o ck a t th e th o ught o f lo sin g m y s ta k e in L a T erra sse . M y fir s t r e actio n w as to fig ht E llio t’s d ecis io n, c la im in g m y r ig htfu l p osit io n a s c o -

ow ner, b ut w hen I p ic k ed u p th e p ho ne to ta lk w it h a la w yer n o s o und w ould c o m e o ut o f m y m outh . I t w as s o a gain st m y n atu re to fig ht s o m eo ne

w ho h ad b een m y a lly fo r s o lo ng th at I w as to ta lly s p eechle ss. I c o uld n o t fin d th e w ord s n o r th e te m pera m ent. T his m ad e m e r e aliz e th at m y r o le

in lif e w as n o t a s a fig hte r, b ut a s a b uild er. I t w as b ette r fo r m e to w alk a w ay a nd u se m y e nerg y to s ta rt b uild in g a gain .

In th in k in g it o ver, I s a w it m ad e n o s e nse to b e p artn ers w it h s o m eo ne w ho d id n o t v alu e m y w orth . I h ad b een th ere b efo re . H ard a s it w as, I

und ers to od th at E llio t n eed ed to w ork w it h s o m eo ne w ho s h are d h is v is io n fo r b usin ess, a nd I w as fa r fr o m th at. M y d ed ic atio n to o ne p artic ula r

co m munit y a nd m y a w ak enin g in te re st in u sin g th e b usin ess fo r so cia l a ctiv is m c o nflic te d w it h E llio t’s g o als to b uild a n atio nal c hain . H e w as

attr a cte d to th e c o rp ora te im age h e s a w a s a h allm ark o f s u ccess, a nd h e d esc rib ed m e a s m ore lik e a n “ E arth M oth er,” s o m eth in g I w ould h ave

ta k en a s a c o m plim ent h ad h e n o t m eant it in a d ero gato ry w ay. A t fir s t, lo sin g m y r o le in th e b usin ess I h ad r u n o n m y o w n fo r te n y ears fe lt a s th o ugh I h ad lo st m y v ehic le fo r e xp re ssin g w ho I w as a nd w hat I

care d m ost a b out. L a T erra sse h ad b eco m e m y a rt fo rm , m y v o ic e. I t w as a s th o ugh s o m eho w th e b usin ess w as w ho I w as. B ut ju st a s I h ad le ft

F re e P eo ple ’s S to re lo okin g fo r th e p ers o n n am ed J u d y W ic k s w ho m I h ad lo st in a m arria ge, I n eed ed to r e gain m y o w n id entit y o nce m ore . I t

w as tim e to m ove o n a gain , r e aliz in g th at w hat I w ante d m ost w as h avin g th e fr e ed om to e xp re ss w ho I w as th ro ugh m y w ork — th ro ugh m y v ery

ow n b usin ess.

B ut w here w ould th e m oney c o m e fr o m to s ta rt o ver a gain ? I h ad n o t ta k en a c o m mensu ra te s a la ry w hile a t L a T erra sse , e xp ectin g s to ck in r e tu rn

fo r m y e ffo rts , s o I h ad lit tle s a vin gs. R em em berin g th at m y fo rm er h usb and a nd b usin ess p artn er, R ic hard H ayne, h ad p ro m is e d to p ay m e m y

sh are w hen F re e P eo ple ’s S to re w as s o ld , I th o ught I w ould a sk fo r h is h elp . T ru e, th e b usin ess h ad n o t b een s o ld ; b ut it n o lo nger a p peare d th at

se llin g it w as p art o f th e p la n. T he s to re h ad c o ntin ued to g ro w u nd er D ic k ’s le ad ers h ip . In 1 975, a fte r I h ad b een g o ne fo r a c o up le o f y ears ,

D ic k h ad m oved th e s to re u p th e s tr e et to a b ig ger a nd b ette r lo catio n a t th e v ery e d ge o f th e c am pus a nd c hanged th e n am e to U rb an O utfit te rs .

T he b usin ess h ad o pened a s e co nd lo catio n in C am brid ge a nd s ta rte d a w ho le sa le b ra nd c alle d F re e P eo ple . T he e nte rp ris e h ad n’t y et m ad e D ic k

th e b illio nair e th at it o ne d ay w ould , b ut it w as d oin g r e m ark ab ly w ell. S ure ly , I a ssu m ed , h e w ould s e e it a s fa ir th at a t th is p oin t h e o ffe r m e s o m e

co m pensa tio n fo r m y r o le in s ta rtin g th e b usin ess.

I r e call D ic k s m ilin g fr o m b ehin d h is b ig d esk a nd , w it h a fr ie nd ly to ne, r e p ly in g th at w hile b oth o f u s k new w e h ad c re ate d th e s to re to geth er, n o

one e ls e w ould . H e a ls o d ecla re d th at h e d id n’t r e m em ber m ak in g a ny s u ch a gre em ent a b out c o m pensa tio n a nd d id n’t b elie ve h e o w ed m e a th in g.

A fte r h earin g o f m y e xp erie nce a t L a T erra sse , h e o ffe re d h is a d vic e: S to p a llo w in g m en to ta k e a d vanta ge o f y o u a nd s ta rt lo okin g o ut a fte r y o ur

ow n in te re sts ; th at’ s th e w ay th e b usin ess w orld w ork s.

S om eho w , I w as n o t s u rp ris e d . I t h ad b een m y c ho ic e to le ave th e b usin ess a nd m arria ge, a nd n o w it w as c le are r th an e ver th at it h ad b een th e

rig ht th in g to d o. I d id n o t b egru d ge D ic k h is r e sp onse . H e w as b ein g tr u e to h is o w n w ay o f th in k in g, a w ay th at h ad s e rv ed h im w ell. T ho ugh I

knew D ic k to b e a v ery c arin g p ers o n, w hen it c am e to b usin ess h e k new h o w to p la y h ard ball. T his tim e, u nlik e th e s o ftb all te am I w ante d to jo in

w hen w e w ere b oth te n y ears o ld , it w as n o t a g am e I w ante d to p la y.

D esp it e th e s h o ck a nd d is a p poin tm ent o f lo sin g L a T erra sse , I h ad m uch to b e g ra te fu l fo r, a nd I w ante d to le ave w it h o ut b ad fe elin gs o r r e gre t.

A fte r a ll, if it h ad n o t b een fo r E llio t, th ere w ould h ave b een n o L a T erra sse , a nd th e b lo ck w ould lik ely h ave b een to rn d ow n. A nd I h ad m et th e

fa th er o f m y c hild re n a t L a T erra sse a nd s o m any o f m y g o od fr ie nd s. I le arn ed h o w to r u n a r e sta ura nt, b ut I a ls o h ad le arn ed th at I c o uld o pera te

a b usin ess o ut o f lo ve. I h ad fo und th at e ven w hen w ork in g in a fo r- p ro fit b usin ess, I c o uld k no w th at I w as d oin g g o od, a llo w in g m e to w ak e u p in

th e m orn in g w it h jo y in m y h eart a nd e xcit e m ent fo r th e d ay a head .

A nd it w as L a T erra sse th at fir s t b ro ught m e to S anso m S tr e et lo okin g fo r a w ait r e ss jo b s o lo ng a go . H ere o n th is b lo ck I h ad fo und m y p la ce in

th e w orld . I t w as h ere th at I w ante d to b e, a nd I w ould n urtu re a nd c are fo r th is n eig hb orh o od a nd c o ntin ue b uild in g a w arm a nd liv ely c o m munit y

in w hic h to liv e, w ork , a nd r a is e m y fa m ily . S o I s a id g o odbye to L a T erra sse a nd tu rn ed m y fu ll a tte ntio n d ow n th e s tr e et to th e tin y m uffin a nd

co ffe e ta k e-o ut s h o p I h ad re cently s ta rte d o n th e fir s t flo or o f m y h o use . S et u p in th e fr o nt c o rn er, it w as n o b ig ger th an m y c hild ho od fo rts .

D esp it e m y la ck o f r e so urc es, I v o w ed th at I w ould tu rn it in to o ne o f P hila d elp hia ’s m ost s u ccessfu l r e sta ura nts . I n tim e it b ecam e ju st th at, a s w ell

as a fu ll- th ro ate d e xp re ssio n o f m y s o cia l a ctiv is m . F ro m m y lif e ’s m ost tr a um atic h eartb re ak b lo om ed m y g re ate st lo ve— th e W hit e D og C afé . The c h ara cte r o f a th ir d p la ce i s d ete rm in ed m ost o f a ll b y i ts r e g ula r c li e n te le a nd i s m ark ed b y a p la yfu l m ood. . . .

They a re th e h ea rt o f a c o m munity ’s s o cia l v ita li ty , th e g ra ssro ots o f d em ocra cy. . . .

— Ray O ld en burg , in

The G re a t G ood P la ce: C afe s, C offe e S hops, B ooksto re s, B ars, H air S alo ns, a nd O th er H angouts

at th e H ea rt o f a C om munity

5

The B lo om in g o f t h e W hit e D og C afé

W HEN

I I

MAGIN ED

what th e W hit e D og C afé w ould lo ok lik e, th e fir s t v is io n th at c am e to m in d w as b lu e-a nd -w hit e c heck ere d c afé -sty le c urta in s

hangin g in th e tw o fr o nt w in d ow s. T he c heck ere d fa b ric s to od fo r o ld -fa sh io ned h o sp it a lit y — ho m ey a nd u np re te n-tio us. E very th in g e ls e w ould b e

built a ro und th o se c urta in s.

A t th e tim e, I h ad n o t h eard o f s u sta in ab ilit y , o r fa ir tr a d e, o r e ven th e c o ncep t o f a s o cia lly r e sp onsib le b usin ess. I ju st w ante d a w arm a nd fr ie nd ly

pla ce fo r m y fr ie nd s a nd n eig hb ors to g ath er fo r a n e njo yab le tim e, g o od c o nvers a tio n, a nd th e k in d o f fo od I m yse lf lik ed to e at. A fte r m y m any

years in a F re nch r e sta ura nt w it h a m enu r ic h in h eavy c re am s a uces a nd im porte d in gre d ie nts , I w as r e ad y fo r a c hange. A nd I k new th e c hange I

lo nged fo r m ost. I w ante d to s e rv e u p th e fo od I e njo yed a s a c hild — lik e M om ’s m arin ate d b eef s h is h k eb ab s s k ew ere d w it h fr e sh v egeta b le s

fr o m th e fa m ily g ard en, w hic h D ad g rille d o ver c harc o al, a nd fo r d esse rt— N ana’s fr e sh s tr a w berry p ie . A nd I c o uld n o t w ait to p ut o n th e m enu

m y c hild ho od fa vo rit e s— ro ot b eer flo ats a nd h o t fu d ge s u nd aes— and o rd er th em w henever I w ante d .

I h ad n ever b een to th e tr e nd -se ttin g r e sta ura nts o f C alif o rn ia , n o r h eard o f th e fo od r e vo lu tio nary A lic e W ate rs , w ho w as le ad in g th e c harg e a t h er

C hez P anis se re sta ura nt in B erk ele y, fo und ed in 1 971, to c hange A meric an c uis in e fr o m th e tr a d it io nal m eat a nd p ota to es a nd h ig hly p ro cesse d

fo ods to c re ativ e d is h es th at fe atu re d th e n atu ra l fla vo rs o f fr e sh lo cal in gre d ie nts . B ut a s th e W hit e D og e m erg ed a nd g re w , I w as lu ck y to c atc h

th e w ave o f in te re st A lic e in sp ir e d in a n ew A meric an c uis in e th at w as a b out to s w eep th e c o untr y . T he W hit e D og C afé w ould b e a m ong th e fir s t

re sta ura nts in P hila d elp hia , a nd p erh ap s in th e c o untr y , to fe atu re a c uis in e th at h ig hlig hte d fa rm -fr e sh in gre d ie nts . B ut th at c am e la te r. F ir s t w e h ad

to h ave a k it c hen a nd s o m e ta b le s a nd c hair s .

A ctu ally , fir s t w e h ad to s e ll s o m e m uffin s.

I h ad sta rte d th e m uffin sh o p ju st b efo re le avin g L a T erra sse . W e h ad o pened o ur d oors a s th e stu d ents a nd fa cult y fr o m th e U niv ers it y o f

P ennsy lv ania w ere re tu rn in g fr o m w in te r b re ak in J a nuary 1 983. D urin g th e c o m in g m onth s, th e P enn L aw S cho ol a cro ss th e s tr e et p ro vid ed a

ste ad y flo w o f s tu d ents e ager fo r a g o od c up o f c o ffe e a nd a m orn in g m uffin , fr e sh ly m ad e in th e L a T erra sse k it c hen ju st u p th e s tr e et.

N ow , th o ugh, th e m uffin s h o p lo om ed m uch la rg er in m y lif e , a nd tu rn in g m y fu ll a tte ntio n to g ro w in g it , I lo oked fo r w ays to e xp and th e m enu to

attr a ct a lu nch c ro w d. B ut th e fo od h ad to b e s o m eth in g I c o uld m anage m yse lf , s in ce I h ad n o m oney to h ir e a c o ok, a nd I o nly k new h o w to

m ak e tw o th in gs— bre ad a nd s o up fr o m m y E sk im o v illa ge d ays. S o b re ad a nd s o up it w as.

I c ro w ded tw o u se d re fr ig era to rs in to m y s e co nd -flo or h o m e k it c hen to h o ld in gre d ie nts a nd b egan c o okin g in th e e venin gs u p sta ir s , w hile tw o-

year- o ld L aw re nce a nd fo ur- y ear- o ld G ra ce tu gged a t m y s k ir t fo r a tte ntio n. S ta rtin g a r e sta ura nt w it h y o ung c hild re n w as o bvio usly n o t m y p la n,

but s o m e th in gs ju st h ap pen th at w ay. M y m ost s tr e ssfu l c halle nge w as n o t th e u su al b usin ess a ngst o f in ad eq uate c ap it a l o r m anagin g e m plo yees,

but r a th er th e c o nsta nt p ull b etw een c arin g fo r th e k id s a nd te nd in g to a b usin ess th at n eed ed s o m uch o f m y tim e a nd e nerg y. D urin g th e d ay, N eil

w as a t h is a rc hit e ctu re o ffic e a nd G ra ce a nd L aw re nce a tte nd ed a n earb y n urs e ry s c ho ol, b ut e venin gs a nd w eek end s I h ad to ju ggle w ork w it h

care o f th e k id s. T hey s u rv iv ed , th o ugh G ra ce s till h as a h uge s c ar o n h er th ig h w here s h e c ut h ers e lf w hen a ccid ently s it tin g o n th e s a w b la d e o f a

co m merc ia l g ra d e a lu m in um fo il d is p ense r le ft o n a k it c hen s to ol. M ak es m e s c re am “ O uch!” ju st to th in k a b out it .

W it h m y b re ad - a nd s o up -m ak in g, I w as b re ak in g m y ju nio r h ig h s c ho ol v o w n ever to c o ok, b ut in o nly a m onth o r s o I c o uld a ffo rd to h ir e a r e al

co ok to r e lie ve m e a nd e xp and th e m enu to in clu d e s a nd w ic hes a nd h o m em ad e d esse rts . W e w ere s till a ta k e-o ut o pera tio n, b ut it w as a d efin it e

ste p fo rw ard . I b ought a b ra nd n ew c o m merc ia l r a nge, fig urin g w e w ould e ventu ally m ove it d ow nsta ir s a fte r w e w ere a b le to g et a lo an to in sta ll a

pro fe ssio nal k it c hen in th e b ase m ents o f o ur tw o r o w h o use s. I t w as 1 984, n o t lo ng a fte r N eil a nd I h ad b ought o ur s id e-b y-sid e r o w h o m es. T he

base m ents w ere s till d ark , d ank , d ir t- flo ore d c ella rs . W hen s p rin g b ro ught g o od w eath er, w e b uilt a b ric k p atio th at s p anned th e fr o nts o f b oth o ur

ho use s a nd w as b ord ere d a lo ng th e s id ew alk w it h a g re en p riv et h ed ge. I t w as s o on fu ll o f c usto m ers w ho s e ate d th em se lv es to e njo y s o up a nd

sa nd w ic hes, o r ju st a g o od c up o f c o ffe e; th e fir s t o utd oor c afé o n S anso m S tr e et, a d din g to th e liv ely s tr e et lif e .

In m y o ffic e a t L a T erra sse , I h ad w ork ed a t a n o ld -fa sh io ned ro llt o p d esk n ext to a la rg e a ntiq ue o ak d in in g ta b le th at s e rv ed a s a c o nfe re nce

ta b le . I h ad s a t th ro ugh m any a s it u atio n a t th at ta b le d urin g m y te n y ears a s m anager— hir in g, fir in g, p ro m otin g, a d vis in g, c ajo lin g, a s w ell a s

ho ld in g o ur w eek ly m anager m eetin gs w hen w e g ath ere d to m ak e p la ns, re so lv e p ro ble m s, a nd c ele b ra te o ur s u ccesse s. A nd a s th e tr a um atiz e d

fo rm er b usb oy h ad r e m in d ed m e, a t tim es b re ast- fe ed in g a nd te nd in g to y o ung b ab ie s a s I w ork ed .

F ull o f m em orie s, m y c o nfe re nce ta b le a nd d esk c am e a lo ng w it h m e to 3 420 S anso m S tr e et, w here I c re ate d a n o ffic e o n th e fir s t flo or b ehin d th e

m uffin ta k e-o ut s h o p. B efo re le avin g L a T erra sse , I h ad b egun p la ns to c o ntin ue th e p ub lis h in g a t S ynap se w it h th e h elp o f r e se arc her a nd w rit e r

W end y B orn , w ho h ad w ork ed o n th e

Phila delp hia R eso urc e G uid e

and n o w s h are d m y n ew o ffic e. T ho ugh w e h ad ju st s ta rte d r e se arc h o n a guid e fo r w ork in g m oth ers o n b ala ncin g w ork a nd h o m e lif e (s o m eth in g w e b oth sa w th e n eed fo r fr o m o ur o w n b usy liv es), o ur p la n so on

changed .

O ne d ay a t lu nchtim e, I n o tic ed th at th e lin e fo r ta k e-o ut s tr e tc hed o ut th e fr o nt d oor a nd d ow n th e s te p s. I a sk ed W end y if s h e h ad e ver b een a

w ait r e ss. S he h ad . “ G ood,” I s a id , “ m e to o. S o le t’s o pen th e d oor a nd in vit e th at lin e o f c usto m ers in to o ur o ffic e to s it a t th e b ig o ak ta b le , a nd

yo u a nd I w ill w ait o n th em .”

T he c usto m ers h ad a m erry tim e c hattin g a ro und th e ta b le w hile e atin g h o m em ad e s o up a nd s a nd w ic hes a nd w ere b ack th e n ext d ay w it h th eir

fr ie nd s. Y ik es, w e n eed ed m ore ta b le s. I s h o ved o ur d esk s b ack in to th e c o rn ers a nd b ro ught d ow n th e r o und o ak ta b le w it h fo ur c hair s fr o m o ur

ho m e k it c hen up sta ir s , alo ng w it h an asso rtm ent o f sm all ta b le s— end ta b le s, co rn er ta b le s, anyth in g I co uld fin d — and o dd chair s , w hic h

im med ia te ly fille d u p w it h e ager c usto m ers .

A ll o f a s u d den, W hit e D og C afé w as a s it - d ow n r e sta ura nt w it h ta b le s e rv ic e. I m oved o ur o ffic e u p to th e h o use , w hic h w as b eco m in g b arre n

w it h s o m uch fu rn it u re m oved d ow nsta ir s , a nd h ir e d a w ait r e ss. I a sk ed W end y if s h e w ould m ove fr o m r e se arc h w ork to b eco m e c afé m anager,

overs e ein g d aily o pera tio ns, w hile I fo cuse d o n b uild in g th e b usin ess. I h ad n o m oney to o ffe r h er a s a la ry , s o I s u ggeste d 5 p erc ent o f W hit e D og

sto ck p er y ear u ntil w e c o uld a ffo rd to p ay h er fr o m c ash flo w . S he a ccep te d a nd o ver th e n ext th re e y ears s h e w ould r e ceiv e a to ta l o f 1 5 p erc ent

of W hit e D og s to ck , a n a gre em ent th at e nd ed w ell fo r b oth o f u s. D urin g th e s e ven y ears W end y w ork ed a t th e W hit e D og, s h e p ro vid ed g ra ce

and s ta b ilit y in a w hir lw in d tim e o f r a p id g ro w th a nd c hange.

O f c o urs e , w it h a ll o f o ur tim e a nd e nerg y n eed ed to b uild th e W hit e D og, th ere w as n o tim e fo r o ur p ub lis h in g w ork . W it h o ut s a d ness, I c lo se d

dow n S ynap se , th e n o np ro fit th at h ad b een a v ehic le fo r s e rv in g m y c o m munit y fo r o ver te n y ears . I t w ould n o t b e lo ng b efo re I d is c o vere d th at

th e v ery s a m e d esir e fo r c o m munit y b uild in g, s o cia l c hange, a nd in fo rm atio n s h arin g th at d ro ve m y p ub lis h in g w ork w ould ta k e a b rig ht n ew fo rm in

th e liv ely e d ucatio nal p ro gra m s th at b ecam e a s ig natu re fe atu re o f th e W hit e D og.

M eanw hile , th e b ig o ak c o nfe re nce ta b le I h ad b ro ught fr o m m y o ld o ffic e b ecam e k no w n a s T ab le 2 0, a nd th e ro und o ak k it c hen ta b le fr o m

up sta ir s b ecam e T ab le 2 4. T hey r e m ain ed in th e e xact s a m e p la ces in o ur fir s t d in in g r o om fo r tw enty -fiv e y ears .

F or d éco r, ju st a s I d id w it h m y fo rts , I u se d w hat I h ad , h angin g fa m ily p ho to gra p hs o f p eo ple w it h th eir d ogs o n th e c re am -c o lo re d w all b ehin d

Tab le 2 0. O ne p ic tu re s h o w ed m y g ra nd m oth er G ra ce s h ak in g h and s w it h h er lit tle d og T ric k sy. In th e fr a m e, I p ut h er b usin ess c ard fr o m h er

bed -a nd -b re ak fa st in F lo rid a, w hic h re ad : “ H ouse o f th e S even G ab le s— A g o od n ig ht’s re st fo r e very g uest, G ra ce S co tt, P ro prie tr e ss.” I w as

to ld th at G ra nd m a h ad o nce s le p t in th e b ath tu b s o th at s h e c o uld g iv e u p h er b ed to a w eary s o ld ie r o n h is w ay h o m e fr o m th e n earb y n aval b ase

durin g W orld W ar I I. P ho to s o f N eil’ s fa m ily p ic tu re d h is m oth er w it h h er b ig w hit e s ta nd ard p oodle a nd h is g re at- g ra nd fa th er w it h a s h aggy b la ck

dog n ext to a c o vere d w ago n.

O ver th e y ears , I a d ded p ho to s o f c usto m ers w it h th eir d ogs a nd a fe w c ele b rit ie s w it h

th eir

dogs, in clu d in g G ertr u d e S te in w it h h er b ig p oodle

and E le ano r R oose velt w it h h er lit tle b la ck S co ttie . A bove th e p ho to s, I in sta lle d a lo ng s h elf th e le ngth o f th e r o om th at w as s o on c ro w ded w it h

fr a m ed p ic tu re s o f c usto m ers w it h th eir d ogs a nd a w id e a sso rtm ent o f w hit e d og fig ure s th at c usto m ers o fte n c o ntr ib ute d to th e c o lle ctio n. O n

oth er w alls , I b egan a g alle ry o f a ntiq ue p rin ts , in clu d in g o ne N eil a nd I h ad fo und in E ngla nd o n o ur h o neym oon, n o t k no w in g a t th e tim e it w ould

one d ay b e h angin g in th e W hit e D og C afé — no t k no w in g th ere w ould e ven b e a c afé — sh o w in g a lit tle g ir l fe ed in g a c o okie to a la rg e d og.

N ow th at w e w ere p ro vid in g ta b le s e rv ic e, w e n eed ed r e al p la te s— as w ell a s b ow ls , c o ffe e c up s, g la sse s, a nd u te nsils . A nd w hat a b out w ash in g

th em ? W it h a ll th e c o okin g g o in g o n in m y tin y h o m e k it c hen, th ere w as c erta in ly n o r o om fo r d is h w ash in g, s o I in sta lle d a r e gula tio n th re e-b ow l

sin k in th e c o rn er o f th e d in in g r o om w here th e d is h w ash er m errily c o nvers e d w it h th e c usto m ers , w ho p asse d h im th eir d ir ty p la te s a s th ey fin is h ed

each c o urs e .

It w as a n e xcit in g d ay w hen N eil b ro ke a d oorw ay th ro ugh th e w all o f th e c afé th at s e p ara te d o ur tw o h o use s. L ookin g th ro ugh th e h o le in to th e

em pty s p ace, I th o ught,

Wow , a w hole n ew ro om ! Q uic k , w e n eed m ore s e a ts !

All I h ad le ft in th e h o use w as th e liv in g ro om fu rn it u re , w hic h

se em ed a b it o dd fo r a r e sta ura nt, b ut I p ic tu re d m ak in g a fu nk y p la ce fo r s tu d ents to s ip c o ffe e a nd e at m uffin s w hile r e ad in g th eir b ooks. I s e t u p

th e c o ffe e lo unge w it h tw o s o fa s, a c o ffe e ta b le , a sso rte d s tu ffe d c hair s , s o m e p ain tin gs fo r th e w alls , a p otte d p alm , a nd a b ig b ra ss b ir d cage w it h

tw o p ara k eets . N o w ond er th at w hen p eo ple w alk ed in to th e c afé fo r th e fir s t tim e, th ey w ould s a y, “ M y, J u d y, it ’s s o n ic e a nd h o m ey in h ere — I

fe el lik e I ’m in y o ur h o use .” O ne fr ie nd , ta k en a b ack b y m y u nco nventio nal fu rn is h in g, e xcla im ed , “ G ee, J u d y, y o u s u re h ave a lo t o f n erv e a sk in g

yo ur c usto m ers to s it o n o ld liv in g r o om fu rn it u re .” L it tle d id w e s u sp ect th at fu rn is h in g c o ffe e s h o ps w it h u se d s o fa s a nd c o ffe e ta b le s w ould s o on

beco m e a h ip tr e nd . B ut fo r m e, it w as s im ply a ll I h ad .

W hat w e n eed ed m ost n o w w ere h o t p la tte rs to b egin b uild in g a d in ner b usin ess. T oo im patie nt to w ait u ntil w e c o uld a ffo rd p uttin g e xhaust d ucts

fo r a c o m merc ia l k it c hen u p th ro ugh o ur th re e-le vel h o use , I im pro vis e d a gain b y s e ttin g u p a c harc o al g rill in th e b ack yard ( s h ad es o f m y fa th er)

and o ur fir s t h o t fo od s e rv ic e w as b orn . A fe w u se d re sta ura nt ta b le s c o vere d w it h b lu e-a nd -w hit e c heck ere d ta b le clo th s th at m atc hed th e fr o nt

w in d ow s, a lo ng w it h o ur fa m ily ’s b ack yard p ic nic ta b le , p ro vid ed a c o up le o f d oze n o utd oor s e ats . N eil e nclo se d th e b ack yard w it h a w hit e p ic k et

fe nce a nd b uilt a n a rb or o verh ead , w him sic ally c arv in g th e e nd s o f th e tw o w hit e -p ain te d s u p port b eam s a t th e to p o f th e a rb or in to th e s h ap e o f

dog h ead s, w hic h s tu ck o ut lik e m aid en h ead s a b ove th e b ack -g ate e ntr a nce. W e p la nte d b ig u rn s o f w is te ria th at g re w u p th e w hit e a rb or a nd

pla ced p ots o f r e d g era niu m s o n th e b lu e-a nd -w hit e c heck ere d ta b le s. T hat s u m mer th e b ack yard w as o ur m ost p opula r d in in g a re a, e xcep t w hen

an o ccasio nal r a t w ould s c urry a cro ss th e y ard . S in ce th ere w as n o w ay to p re vent th is , w e w ould ju st la ugh a nd s a y, “ T here g o es a no th er b unny!”

O n th e m enu th at s u m mer o f 1 984 w e o ffe re d fo ur h o t p la tte rs fr o m th e g rill, w hic h in clu d ed tw o o ld fa m ily fa vo rit e s— my m oth er’s re cip e fo r B etty ’s B eef K eb ab a nd m y b ro th er’s m arin ate d c hic k en d is h , B ro th er J o hn’s C hic k en— alo ng w it h a fis h o f th e d ay a nd a v egeta ria n p la tte r o f

grille d fr e sh v egeta b le s w it h h um mus. A fte r m ak in g fly ers w it h m y d ra w in gs o f w hit e d ogs to a d vertis e th e c afé , a nd w it h n o m oney to p ost a n a d

or h ir e s o m eo ne to h and o ut th e fly ers , I re cru it e d fiv e-y ear- o ld G ra ce a nd th re e-y ear- o ld L aw re nce to h elp w it h o ur fir s t a d vertis in g c am paig n.

O nce w e fin is h ed p assin g o ut a ll th e fly ers o n th e n earb y u niv ers it y c am pus, w e r a ced h o m e a nd p eek ed in to th e b ack yard to s e e if w e h ad b ro ught

in a ny c usto m ers .

In th ese e arly d ays, y o u w on’t b e s u rp ris e d to h ear th at th e W hit e D og w as a fu nny k in d o f p la ce: N ot o nly w as th e fo od c o oked o uts id e a nd th e

dis h es w ash ed in th e d in in g r o om , b ut th e c usto m ers w ere s e nt u p sta ir s to o ur liv in g q uarte rs w hen th ey a sk ed fo r th e r e str o om , w avin g to G ra ce

and L aw re nce p la yin g o n th e flo or a s th ey m ad e th eir w ay to th e fa m ily b ath ro om . D urin g th e w eek , I w ould g o to s le ep b efo re th e c afé c lo se d s o

I c o uld g et u p e arly to ta k e th e k id s to n urs e ry s c ho ol. A t th e e nd o f th e n ig ht, th e la st s e rv er w ould d ep osit th e r e ceip ts u nd er m y p illo w a s I la y

sle ep in g— th e o nly s a fe p la ce to h id e th e m oney. F or y ears a fte r, I h ad d re am s o f p eo ple le avin g m oney u nd er m y p illo w !

F ortu nate ly , N eil w as g o od h um ore d a b out o ur u niq ue lif e sty le a nd th e k id s lik ely s a w th is a s n o rm al h o m e lif e , w it h th e r e sta ura nt a s a n e xte nsio n

of o ur h o m e a nd th e e m plo yees a s o ur e xte nd ed fa m ily . I t w asn ’t lo ng b efo re G ra ce le arn ed to u se th e in te rc o m to o rd er h o t fu d ge s u nd aes fr o m

th e k it c hen to b e d eliv ere d r ig ht to h er b ed ro om . W ho c are d if w e d id n’t h ave m uch p riv acy, o r fu rn it u re e it h er. T ho ugh o ur fa m ily ’s p ic nic ta b le

w as c o m mand eere d to s e at c usto m ers in th e b ack yard , L aw re nce’s b est fr ie nd E van c ele b ra te d h is fif th b ir th d ay in o ur o utd oor d in in g ro om ,

w hic h c o uld n o w s e at 3 0 k id s. T here w as fu n to b e h ad fo r a ll a ges.

W hen fa ll b ro ught c o ole r te m pera tu re s, N eil a nd I e nclo se d th e w ho le b ack yard w it h c le ar p la stic o ver th e a rb or a nd d ow n th e sid es, a nd

co nstr u cte d a c him ney fo r th e g rill. W e m ad e it th ro ugh th e fa ll w it h m any g allo ns o f k ero se ne fo r th e h eate rs , b ut b y D ecem ber o nly th e c hef,

w earin g a p ark a a nd b oots , r e m ain ed o uts id e. I p le ad ed w it h h im to h o ld o n u ntil th e e nd o f th e y ear. I ju st h ad to c ele b ra te N ew Y ear’s E ve a t

th e W hit e D og C afé . T he c hef a gre ed a nd d esig ned a fe stiv e N ew Y ear’s E ve m enu fe atu rin g b eef r o aste d o ver c harc o al, a nd w e s p re ad th e w ord

ab out o ur v ery fir s t N ew Y ear’s E ve d in ner.

T he n ig ht o f th e th ir ty -fir s t th e in d oor d in in g r o om , d eco ra te d w it h s tr e am ers a nd b allo ons, fille d u p w it h th ir ty so m e c usto m ers w earin g p arty h ats

and b lo w in g to y h o rn s, in clu d in g N eil a nd m e a t T ab le 2 0 w it h te n c lo se fr ie nd s w ho h ad a ll b een c usto m ers o r fe llo w e m plo yees fr o m L a

Terra sse . A mong th em w ere S am L it tle , a fe llo w S anso m C om mit te e m em ber, a nd h is w if e , F ra ncie ; S and y C ad w ala d er, a fe llo w L aT erra sse

alu m ; a nd O llie C hern ia hiv sk y a nd M ary D avis , w ho m I h ad m et in th e L a T erra sse b ar. T he n ext y ear, M ary , a lo ng w it h J u ne, th e m oth er o f

L aw re nce’s fr ie nd E van, e sta b lis h ed th e tr a d it io n o f d ancin g o n th e b ar a t m id nig ht. A ll o f th ese fr ie nd s b ecam e r e gula r c usto m ers a t W hit e D og,

and w e e njo yed m any m ore N ew Y ear’s E ve p artie s to geth er o ver th e y ears . T ab le 2 0 a nd I h ad a lr e ad y g o ne th ro ugh a lo t to geth er, a nd th at

N ew Y ear’s p arty b egan a n ew e ra o f g ath erin g w it h fr ie nd s a nd fa m ily , a s w ell a s s ta ff d urin g th e o ff- h o urs , to c ele b ra te s p ecia l o ccasio ns, w hile

G ra nd m a G ra ce lo oked o n w it h a p pro val fr o m h er p ho to o n th e w all a lo ng w it h h er lit tle d og T ric k sy .

P eo ple fr o m o th er p arts o f m y lif e in P hila d elp hia s h o w ed u p th at fir s t N ew Y ear’s E ve, to o, in clu d in g B ob B re cht, w ho h ad s e rv ed o n th e b oard

of S ynap se , a nd h is w if e S usa n; a nd n ext to th em E d S chw artz , th e d ir e cto r o f th e I n stit u te fo r th e S tu d y o f C iv ic V alu es, w ho m I h ad m et w hile

re se arc hin g fo r th e

Whole C it y C ata lo g

, w it h h is w if e , J a ne, a nd y o ung d aughte r R uth . R em ark ab ly , E d, J a ne, a nd R uth w ould s p end e very N ew

Y ear’s E ve a t th e W hit e D og fo r th e n ext tw enty -fiv e y ears , w atc hin g o ur p ro gre ss a lo ng th e w ay, a s R uth g re w o ld e no ugh to d ance o n th e b ar

w it h o ur d aughte r G ra ce.

F ro m o ur h o use u p sta ir s , I b ro ught d ow n th e la st p ie ce o f fu rn it u re s till le ft in th e liv in g r o om — a p ia no . A nd G ertr u d e, w ond erfu l G ertr u d e, fille d

th e r o om w it h h er jo yfu l m usic fo r th e fir s t N ew Y ear’s E ve a t th e W hit e D og C afé o n D ecem ber 3 1, 1 984.

T he n ext d ay th e c hef le ft. I d id n o t h ave th e n erv e to a d vertis e fo r a n ew o ne a nd th en s h o w th e w ay to o ur k it c hen— an o utd oor c harc o al g rill in

Ja nuary . A gain st m y s tr o ng d esir e to k eep g o in g n o m atte r w hat, I w as fo rc ed to c lo se th e c afé a nd w ait u ntil s p rin g o r a lo an, w hic hever c am e

fir s t.

It tu rn ed o ut th at th e W hit e D og’s fir s t N ew Y ear’s E ve p arty w ould b e th e la st o ne w e s h are d w it h G ertr u d e. H er h ealt h w as d eclin in g. W it h n o

fa m ily to c are fo r h er, s h e h ad a sk ed m e to ta k e c harg e o f h er a ffa ir s . A fte r s h e w as fo und w and erin g th e h alls o f h er a p artm ent b uild in g, k no ck in g

on d oors a t o dd tim es o f th e n ig ht, th e la nd lo rd c alle d to te ll m e s h e m ust fin d a n ew p la ce to liv e. A fte r s o m e r e se arc h a nd v is it s to a n um ber o f

sa d ly d ep re ssin g w are ho use s fo r th e e ld erly , I fin ally m oved G ertr u d e fr o m h er a p artm ent to a c o m fo rta b le a nd c heery s e nio r r e sid ence.

A t th e tim e o f h er r e co rd r e le ase , G ertr u d e h ad to ld a r e p orte r, “ I w ant to p la y ’ til th e la st d ay I ’m o n E arth . I c an’t im agin e liv in g a nd n o t p la yin g. I

w ant to d o it ’ til th e e nd . T hen if I g o . . . G oodbye! I t’s b een fu n! I ’v e h ad a g o od tim e! O ooh! I ’v e h ad a w ond erfu l tim e, d ear.” I ju st h ad to

m ak e s u re G ertr u d e c o uld k eep p la yin g a s lo ng a s s h e w as a b le , s o I ta lk ed th e a d m in is tr a to rs a t th e s e nio r re sid ence in to a llo w in g G ertr u d e’s

pia no to m ove in a lo ng w it h h er. I s u ggeste d p la cin g it n ear th e d in in g ro om , im agin in g th e re sid ents g ath erin g a ro und th e p ia no b efo re o r a fte r

m eals w hile G ertr u d e p la yed o ld -fa sh io ned fa vo rit e s. In ste ad , th e p ia no w as p ut in a sm all a ud it o riu m , a lit tle -u se d ro om th at w as n o t v ery

co nvenie nt.

A ccep tin g th is , I a rra nged fo r G ertr u d e to h ave a c o ncert fo r th e o th er re sid ents , b ut a s th e d ate g re w n ear, I c o uld s e e th at h er s tr e ngth w as

eb bin g. M y fr ie nd J im S m it h , a te no r b anjo p la yer w ho h ad r e cently b egun p la yin g a t th e W hit e D og, a gre ed to d o a d uet w it h G ertr u d e to h elp

keep u p th e m om entu m . O n th e n ig ht o f th e c o ncert, J im a nd I g o t G ertr u d e to th e p ia no — and a n e m pty r o om . W hen n o o ne e ls e s h o w ed u p , w e

w ent a ro und to th e r o om s h elp in g th e e ld erly r e sid ents g et to th e c o ncert, h o bblin g o n w alk ers a nd c anes o r p ush ed in w heelc hair s . W e fin ally b uilt

up a n a ud ie nce o f a b out te n p eo ple a nd G ertr u d e b egan to p la y b ut w as s o on fa llin g a sle ep a t th e k eyb oard . W hile J im k ep t th e m usic g o in g, I r a n

to G ertr u d e’s r o om fo r h er r e co rd p la yer a nd a c o py o f

Gertr u de L iv e a t L a T erra sse

. B ack a t th e “ c o ncert,” I p ut th e r e co rd o n fu ll b la st a nd G ertr u d e n o dded h er h ead a nd s m ile d w hile s till s it tin g a t th e p ia no , lik ely d re am in g th at s h e w as a ctu ally p la yin g. W hen th e re co rd e nd ed , th e

aud ie nce, w ho h ad a ls o b een d ozin g, c la p ped a p pre cia tiv ely a nd G ertr u d e to ok h er b ow b efo re J im a nd I h elp ed e very o ne b ack to th eir r o om s.

G ertr u d e d ie d w it h in a y ear a t a ge e ig hty . S he h ad o fte n to ld m e th at s h e w is h ed s h e c o uld a ffo rd to y ell o ut to a c ro w ded r o om , “ D rin k s o n m e!”

A t h er m em oria l s e rv ic e in C ente r C it y P hila d elp hia , I s e rv ed h er fa vo rit e c o ck ta il, p iñ a c o la d a, to h er fr ie nd s a nd fa ns, te llin g th em , “ T his o ne’s o n

G ertr u d e!” A fe w w eek s la te r, w hen I w as in d esp air th at w e c o uld n’t c o ntin ue w it h o ut m ore w ork in g c ap it a l, m oney s u d denly a p peare d — a

su rp ris e $ 30,0 00 in herit a nce le ft b y G ertr u d e, m ore th an e no ugh to c o ver h er b ar ta b o f p iñ a c o la d as.

G ertr u d e w asn ’t o ur o nly b enefa cto r. T ho ugh fa m ily m em bers m ad e lo ans to ta lin g o ver $ 100,0 00, a nd I w as a b le to g et a $ 50,0 00 lo w -in te re st

lo an fr o m a c it y a gency th at d ir e cte d m oney to w ard m in o rit y - a nd w om an-o w ned b usin esse s, it w asn ’t e no ugh. T he b usin ess w as g ro w in g a nd w as

ab le to m ak e th e m onth ly m ortg age p aym ent a nd p ro vid e a ll o ur m eals , a nd th o ugh I w as n o t y et d ra w in g a s a la ry , N eil’ s in co m e c o vere d o th er

liv in g e xp ense s. B ut r e no vatio ns w ere s ta lle d u ntil w e c o uld c o m e u p w it h e no ugh c ap it a l to m ove a head .

In e arly 1 985, w hile w e w ait e d fo r w arm er w eath er to r e o pen o uts id e o r th e fu nd s to b uild a n in d oor k it c hen, w e h ad a s m all m ir a cle . A fr ie nd o f

m in e, S ally T ho m pso n, lo aned m e $ 75,0 00, u nse cure d a nd in te re st fr e e, fr o m th e s a le o f h er b each h o use in C ap e M ay P oin t, N ew J e rs e y. N ow

w e h ad e no ugh to in sta ll a s m all in d oor k it c hen. T hat b each h o use w as th e p la ce o f m any g o od tim es, b egin nin g w it h w hat S ally d esc rib ed a s th e

su m mer h er “ c lo se t b le w in ” a nd h er “ le g b le w o ff.” T he fir s t r e fe rre d to a s to rm y n ig ht w hen th e w in d b le w d ow n th e w all o f S ally ’s c lo th es c lo se t,

causin g h er to b e la te fo r th e p arty w here w e fir s t m et. T he s e co nd r e fe rre d to a n a fte rn o on s o on a fte r w hen I d ro ve h er to th e h o sp it a l a fte r s h e

accid ently s h o t h er le g w it h a m in ia tu re c anno n fille d w it h g unp ow der.

I w as v ery a p pre cia tiv e o f S ally ’s fr ie nd sh ip a nd h er tr u st in m e to s u cceed in m y b usin ess a nd p ay b ack s u ch a la rg e s u m o f m oney. W e u se d

S ally ’s lo an to r e m ove th e w all b etw een th e tw o h o use s a nd in sta ll a b eautif u l h o rs e sh o e-sh ap ed o ak b ar a cro ss th e fr o nt s e ctio n o f b oth h o use s,

w here th e ta k e-o ut c o unte r a nd c o ffe e lo unge h ad b een. B ehin d th e b ar w e a d ded a r e al k it c hen c o m ple te w it h a c o m merc ia l e xhaust s y ste m r is in g

th re e s to rie s th ro ugh o ur h o use to th e r o of. N o m ore c harc o al g rill in th e b ack yard . E ventu ally , th is k it c hen w ould s e rv e o nly th e b ar c ro w d, b ut it

w as a ll w e n eed ed fo r n o w a s w e w ait e d fo r fin ancin g to in sta ll th e m ain k it c hen d ow nsta ir s .

A ls o fr o m S ally ’s b each h o use c am e tw o lo vely V ic to ria n, w hit e , m arb le -to pped ta b le s th at b ecam e T ab le 2 3 in th e fir s t d in in g ro om a nd

eventu ally — ab out s ix y ears la te r— Tab le 9 4 in o ur e ig hth a nd fin al d in in g r o om , th e p ia no p arlo r, a fte r w e e xp and ed th e r e sta ura nt in to a th ir d r o w

ho use , w here th e ta b le r e m ain s to th is d ay n ext to th e p ia no . W it h o ur fir s t in d oor k it c hen in p la ce, w e c o uld r e o pen w it h a r o of o ver th e c hef ’s

head . I w as e xcit e d to e xp and o ur m enu b eyo nd fa m ily re cip es a nd d evelo p th e a ll- A meric an th em e. I b egan c o lle ctin g c o okbooks o f re gio nal

re cip es fr o m a ro und th e c o untr y , fr o m s o uth w est T ex-M ex c uis in e to N ew O rle ans C aju n to n earb y L ancaste r C ounty A mis h c o okin g, s e arc hin g

fo r w hat A meric an c uis in e w as re ally a b out. I w as n o t a p ro fe ssio nal c o ok, b ut I k new w hat I e njo yed e atin g. M ost o f a ll I w as c o m mit te d to

fin d in g fr e sh lo cal p ro duce lik e M om u se d in h er fla vo rfu l h o m e c o okin g— so m eth in g I d id n’t a p pre cia te u ntil I w ent o ff to c o lle ge a nd e xp erie nced

th e b la nd fo od I fo und in th e s c ho ol c afe te ria a nd th e n earb y A meric an-sty le r e sta ura nts , s e rv in g d ull p la tte rs o f m eat, p ota to es, a nd o verc o oked

vegeta b le s. It w ould b e la te r th at I g ra d ually re co gniz e d a ll th e m any o th er re aso ns w hy lo cal fo od is b est, b ut w it h th e m em orie s o f fa rm -fr e sh

fo od I h ad e xp erie nced in m y c hild ho od, I s ta rte d o ff s im ply lik in g th e ta ste . W hat I w ante d fo r th e W hit e D og C afé w as a s ty le o f fo od th at

hig hlig hte d th e n atu ra l fla vo rs o f fr e sh lo cal fo od— th o ugh fin d in g th e r ig ht c hef w ould n o t b e e asy .

I a ls o w ante d a n a ll- A meric an w in e lis t a nd a n a ll- A meric an b eer lis t, to o. W hen I fir s t ta ste d C alif o rn ia w in es b ack in th e 1 970s, th ey c o uld n o t

co m pare to E uro pean w in es, e sp ecia lly th e g re at F re nch, Ita lia n, a nd P ortu guese w in es P asq uale h ad in tr o duced m e to a t L a T erra sse . B ut

C alif o rn ia w in es h ad r e m ark ab ly im pro ved o ver th e p re vio us te n y ears , a nd I fo und th ey s to od u p fa vo ra b ly to th e E uro pean w in es, a t le ast fo r m y

ta ste , a nd I w ante d to s tic k to m y a ll- A meric an th em e. B ette r, I d ecid ed , to h ave a d ep th o f k no w le d ge in A meric an w in es th an a tte m pt to s e le ct

w in es fr o m a ro und th e w orld .

T he s a m e th in g w as h ap penin g w it h b eer— a b ig c hange w as u nd erw ay, a nd A meric an b eers w ere n o lo nger ju st th e ta ste le ss w ate ry v arie tie s th at

co uld n o t c o m pare w it h b eers fr o m G erm any a nd B elg iu m . T he fir s t n ew A meric an b eer I e ver ta ste d — am ber c o lo re d a nd fu ll fla vo re d — was

A ncho r S te am , b re w ed in S an F ra ncis c o . I fo und it d elic io us a nd w ante d it fo r m y W hit e D og c usto m ers .

B ut n o t y et. A t th e tim e w e in sta lle d th e b ar, w e s till h ad n o t b een a p pro ved fo r a lic ense to s e ll a lc o ho lic b evera ges, a le ngth y p ro cess in th e s ta te

of P ennsy lv ania . F or m any m onth s o ur b eautif u l n ew o ak b ar w as u se d o nly fo r c o unte r s e rv ic e d urin g b re ak fa st, lu nch, a nd d in ner w it h w hit e

pap er p la cem ats s e t a t e ach b ar s to ol. B ig s u gar s h ak ers a nd k etc hup b ottle s g ave th e fe el o f a n o ld -fa sh io ned d in er, a nd h o m em ad e m uffin s ( y es,

w e s till s o ld th o se m uffin s) w ere d is p la yed in s e vera l r o und p ed esta l p astr y s ta nd s w it h c le ar p la stic c o vers . O n th e s h elv es o f th e b ack b ar, m eant

to e ventu ally h o ld liq uo r b ottle s, w e lin ed u p a se le ctio n o f b re ak fa st c ere al b oxes. A t n ig ht, w e o ffe re d th e sa m e m enu a s fo r lu nch— so up ,

sa nd w ic hes, sa la d s, a nd a fe w sp ecia l p la tte rs . B ehin d th e b ar w e in sta lle d a n ic e-c re am fr e eze r a nd se rv ed a la rg e se le ctio n o f n o nalc o ho lic

drin k s, in clu d in g m ilk sh ak es, y o gurt s m ooth ie s, a nd m y fa vo rit e — ro ot b eer flo ats .

O ur n ew lit tle k it c hen a t th e b ar w as s o s m all th at p re p w ork s till h ad to b e d one u p sta ir s in th e h o use , a nd it w as a fe at fo r o ur e arly c hefs , B ob

F ox a nd th en D avid S pungen, to c o ok fo r a s m any a s fif ty c usto m ers a t a tim e fr o m s u ch a s m all s p ace, b ut lit tle b y lit tle w e w ere p ro gre ssin g.

C om mand in g th e k it c hen fo r b re ak fa st a nd lu nch w as n o ne o th er th an Y vo nne, th e fie ry fo rm er s o ap -o pera -w atc hin g lu nch c hef a t L a T erra sse

w ho h ad te rrif ie d m e d urin g m y w ait r e ss d ays a nd w ho se s o ap -o pera w atc hin g I’d h ad to e nd a s a m anager. Y vo nne fo und th e o pen k it c hen

behin d th e b ar a t th e W hit e D og p ro vid ed a s ta ge fo r h er g if t o f g ab a nd c heek y h um or. A fa n c lu b o f c usto m ers lin ed u p a lo ng th e c o unte r e very

m orn in g a s s h e c o oked a nd s e rv ed th eir b re ak fa sts , d eliv erin g h o t p la te s rig ht to th e w hit e p ap er p la cem ats . Y vo nne’s fa m ilia r c ack le a nd th e

cla tte r o f h er o m ele t p ans h it tin g th e sto ve o nce a gain ra ng in m y e ars . W e w ere c re atin g o ur o w n so ap o pera . A nd Y vo nne m ad e a g re at

barb eq ue s a uce fo r th e s h o rt r ib s w e a d ded to th e lu nch m enu. N ow w e w ere r e ally c o okin g! B ut I s till h ad to w ait u ntil th e m ain k it c hen w as in sta lle d b efo re I c o uld s ta rt to lo ok fo r th e c hef o f m y d re am s w ho c o uld d evelo p a n A meric an

cuis in e th at w ould p ut u s o n th e c ulin ary m ap . W e c o uld n’t d o th at u ntil w e g o t a lo an fr o m th e b ank . A nd th at in tu rn d ep end ed o n h avin g a liq uo r

lic ense to s h o w w e h ad th e c ap acit y to d o th e v o lu m e o f b usin ess n eed ed to p ay b ack th e lo an.

F in ally , in th e s u m mer o f 1 985, o ur lo ng-a w ait e d liq uo r lic ense a rriv ed a nd w e m oved a sid e th e c o rn fla k es to m ak e w ay fo r th e J a ck D anie ls . I

w as r e ad y to b uild a b ar c ro w d, b ut n o t ju st a ny c ro w d. T he m ost o bvio us b ar c usto m ers in o ur n eig hb orh o od w ere s tu d ents , b ut I d id n o t w ant to

hang o ut in a b ar fu ll o f tw enty so m eth in gs— ju st a fe w o f th em . T o m ak e th e b ar a n in te re stin g p la ce fo r g o od c o nvers a tio n, I w ante d a n

in te rg enera tio nal c lie nte le , w here p ro fe sso rs a nd n eig hb ors fr o m th e s u rro und in g c o m munit ie s— th ir ty so m eth in gs to s e venty so m eth in gs— would s it

next to th e tw enty so m eth in gs a nd e very o ne w ould g et to k no w e ach o th er a nd s h are id eas.

Ju st a s I h ad d one a t L a T erra sse , I u se d m usic a s a w ay to g ro om th e c ro w d, s o ra th er th an p la yin g c urre nt to p h it s , I h ir e d a d uet c alle d th e

S w in g S et ( in clu d in g J im S m it h , w ho h ad b efr ie nd ed G ertr u d e) th at fe atu re d s o ngs fr o m th e 1 940s. W hen n o t fe atu rin g liv e m usic , w e p la yed ta p es

(o f c o urs e th is w as b efo re th e tim e o f iP ods a nd s a te llit e s y ste m s) th at I m ad e u p fr o m m y fa vo rit e lo ng-p la yin g r e co rd s— music fr o m th e 1 930s to

1960s. T here w ere n o t m any s tu d ents w ho lik ed th at k in d o f m usic , b ut ju st e no ugh to b uild a n in te re stin g c ro w d o f m ix ed a ges w ho e njo yed a

go od c o nvers a tio n.

A lo ng w it h th e m usic , I w as fin ally a b le to b egin s e rv in g th e n ew A meric an b eers I w as lo ngin g fo r. C usto m ers w ere s u rp ris e d w hen th ey c am e in to

th e b ar a nd o rd ere d a p opula r b eer lik e H ein ek en to b e to ld th at w e d id n’t c arry th e b ra nd .

T hen h o w a b out a L öw enb rä u? N ope.

W ell th en, I ’ll ta k e a M ic helo b. N ot th at e it h er.

T hen ju st g iv e m e a B ud . S orry , b ut h o w a b out o ne o f th ese b eers ?

H and in g o ver o ur b eer lis t (m ig hty sh o rt a t th e tim e), th e b arte nd er e xp la in ed th at th e W hit e D og c arrie d o nly b eers fr o m sm all in d ep end ent

bre w erie s ( la te r c alle d c ra ft o r m ic ro bre w erie s) th at b re w ed b eer in s m all b atc hes. W e w ere th e fir s t r e sta ura nt in P hila d elp hia , a nd a m ong th e fir s t

on th e w ho le E ast C oast, to se rv e A ncho r S te am , th e S an F ra ncis c o m ic ro bre w . B ack in 1 985 m ost p eo ple h ad n o t h eard o f th ese sm all

bre w erie s, k no w in g o nly th e fla vo rle ss b eer m ad e b y la rg e c o rp ora tio ns th at d om in ate d th e m ark et w it h p erv asiv e a d vertis in g c am paig ns.

I s o on d is c o vere d th at, u nlik e w in e, b eer is b est w hen fr e sh a nd w it h o ut th e p re se rv ativ es n eed ed fo r lo ng-d is ta nce s h ip pin g— ju st lik e lo cal fo od.

S o I u p ped th e a nte . N ot o nly d id I w ant fla vo rfu l a ll- A meric an b eer, I b ecam e d ete rm in ed to h ave b eer th at w as lo cal, fr e sh , a nd m ad e w it h o ut

pre se rv ativ es. I c arrie d a ll th e lo cally b re w ed b eers I c o uld fin d , b ut a t th e tim e n o ne w ere b re w ed in P hila d elp hia , a nd o nly a fe w w ere b re w ed

w it h in th e s ta te — in clu d in g Y uenglin g, th e o ld est b re w ery in A meric a, o nly fo rty m ile s n o rth o f P hila d elp hia ; a nd R ollin g R ock , b re w ed in th e s a m e

to w n in w este rn P ennsy lv ania w here I w ent to G ir l S co ut c am p.

B ut I s till c o uld n o t fin d lo cal b eer a s g o od a s C alif o rn ia ’s A ncho r S te am . S o I w as th rille d to h ear in 1 987 th at a n e xcelle nt n ew b re w ery h ad

opened ju st s ix ty m ile s to th e w est in A dam s-to w n. I t w as n o t o nly th e fir s t n ew b re w ery in P ennsy lv ania s in ce P ro hib it io n, b ut it w as o w ned b y a

w om an! I im med ia te ly c alle d u p th e o w ner, C aro l S to ud t, a nd a sk ed a b out o rd erin g h er b eer. A t fir s t C aro l th o ught s ix ty m ile s w as to o fa r fo r h er

beer to tr a vel ( s h e w as in to lo cal, to o), b ut I c o nvin ced h er to s e ll to m e, a nd s h e d ro ve in to to w n w it h a k eg s tr a p ped in to h er p asse nger s e at w it h

th e s e at b elt . W e la ughed a b out th at y ears la te r w hen C aro l w as c ele b ra tin g th e tw entie th a nniv ers a ry o f S to ud t’s B re w ery a fte r w in nin g m any a

go ld m ed al a t th e G re at A meric an B eer F estiv al. I t w asn ’t lo ng b efo re S to ud t’s b egan b re w in g o ur p riv ate la b el b eer in tw enty -tw o-o unce b ottle s.

I n am ed it “ L eg L if te r L ager” a nd d esig ned a la b el fe atu rin g m y d ra w in g o f a w hit e d og lif tin g h is le g o n a r e d fir e h yd ra nt!

A s m ic ro bre w s b ecam e p opula r, m ore b re w erie s p opped u p in a nd a ro und P hila d elp hia a nd a d jo in in g s ta te s, s o it w asn ’t lo ng b efo re w e w ere

ab le to h ave a b eer lis t o ffe rin g o nly r e gio nally b re w ed b eers . B ack in th e la te 1 980s a nd e arly 1 990s, th is w as a r a rit y . O ur c usto m ers s o on to ok

prid e in d rin k in g lo cal b re w s w it h th eir fr e sh , fu ll fla vo r a nd b eco m in g k no w le d geab le o f th e v ario us s ty le s th at th e lo cal b re w erie s w ere d evelo pin g.

In la te r y ears , w e w ere v ery e xcit e d w hen a lo cal c o m pany b egan d is tillin g g in a nd v o dka rig ht in P hila d elp hia . I n ever th o ught I’d s e e th e d ay

w hen m artin is w ould b e in clu d ed in b uy-lo cal c am paig ns.

W it h th e in cre ase d p ro fit s fr o m th e liq uo r lic ense , th e b ank fin ally fe lt c o m fo rta b le lo anin g u s m oney b y in cre asin g th e a m ount o f o ur m ortg age,

w hic h b ecam e o ur m ain s o urc e o f c ap it a l fo r th e re st o f th e re no vatio ns a nd e xp ansio n. (In vestin g in re al e sta te in o ne’s o w n c o m munit y a nd

m ak in g im pro vem ents to in cre ase it s v alu e is a g re at w ay to in vest, a nd tu rn ed o ut to b e a k ey to m y lo ng-te rm fin ancia l s u sta in ab ilit y .) N ow w it h

th e fu nd s fr o m o ur n ew in cre ase d m ortg age, w e w ere re ad y to ta k e a h uge s te p fo rw ard to in cre ase o ur s e atin g c ap acit y a nd g iv e o urs e lv es th e

co okin g fa cilit ie s o f a “ re al” re sta ura nt. W e b id fo nd fa re w ell to o ur c harm in g b ack yard (a nd to th e n o t- so -c harm in g “ b unnie s”) a nd b uilt a n ew

ad dit io n, d esig ned b y N eil, w it h tw o le vels o f d in in g ro om s, w hic h e nab le d u s to se at a n a d dit io nal e ig hty p eo ple c o m fo rta b ly in a ll w eath er

co nd it io ns.

T he c arv ed w hit e b eam s fr o m th e a rb or w ere r e use d to b uild th e p erm anent r o of o f th e a d dit io n, a nd th e w hit e d og h ead s s till ju t o ut fr o m u nd er

th e ro of to day. T o re p lic ate th e ric h, w arm , w oody fe el o f th e d in in g ro om I a d m ir e d w hile v acatio nin g w it h m y fa m ily a t th e h is to ric M oho nk

M ounta in H ouse in N ew P alt z , N ew Y ork , th e c eilin g a nd w ain sc o tin g o f th e n ew d in in g r o om a s w ell a s th e r e no vate d o rig in al d in in g r o om a nd

bar w ere d one in w ood. A lo ng th e w all fa cin g s o uth w e in sta lle d la rg e w in d ow s w it h h in ges a t th e to p th at a llo w ed th em to s w in g in w ard a nd b e

held u p o n h o oks fr o m th e c eilin g s o th at th e r o om , w hic h w e c alle d “ th e p orc h,” w as o pen-a ir in g o od w eath er, k eep in g a b it o f o ur o ld b ack yard fe el.

N ear th e c eilin g o f th e p orc h d in in g r o om w as a s m all w in d ow th at o pened to th e d eck o ff o ur fa m ily ’s h o m e a b ove. W hen h e w as a b out s ix y ears

old , L aw re nce, fa sc in ate d b y th e lit tle w in d ow , th re w a c herry to m ato d ow n in to th e d in in g ro om th at a ccid ently h it a c usto m er o n th e c heek .

L aw re nce w as m ortif ie d w hen th e m aît r e d ’ m ad e h im c o m e d ow n to o ffe r a n a p olo gy.

H ow to d eal w it h th e o utd oor s p ace b etw een th e b ack s e ctio ns o f th e tw o r o w h o use s w as a d esig n c halle nge, a nd N eil b rillia ntly tu rn ed th e s p ace

in to c entr a l h alls in th e b ase m ent a nd fir s t flo ors o f th e re sta ura nt a nd th e s e co nd a nd th ir d flo ors in o ur h o m e a b ove. W hat h ad b een w in d ow s

fa cin g th e o utd oor lig ht c o urt b ecam e d oorw ays le ad in g in to th ese c entr a l h alls , a llo w in g r e sta ura nt tr a ffic to flo w fr o m th e h all in to th e d in in g r o om s

to e ach s id e a nd in to th e la rg e p orc h d in in g r o om a d dit io n in th e r e ar. I n o rd er to k eep th e n atu ra l lig ht flo w in g, N eil b uilt a n a tr iu m a t th e to p o f th e

sp ace a nd c o nstr u cte d th e h allw ay flo ors w it h g la ss b lo ck s to a llo w th e n atu ra l s u nlig ht, c heery a nd b rig ht, to flo w d ow n th ro ugh th e c ente r o f o ur

ho use a nd in to th e c o re o f th e r e sta ura nt a t th e fir s t flo or le vel.

F ro m N eil’ s w ork , I le arn ed a b out p assiv e s o la r d esig n: T he g la ss o n th e s o uth -fa cin g w alls o f o ur b uild in gs a llo w ed th e s u n to w arm th e r o om s in

th e w in te r. T w o fa st- g ro w in g L ond on p la netr e es N eil p la nte d o n th e s o uth s id e p ro vid ed s h ad e in th e s u m mer, w hile in w in te r, w hen th e le aves h ad

fa lle n, th e su n str e am ed th ro ugh la ce-c o vere d w in d ow s, c re atin g a w arm a nd c o zy fe elin g fo r c usto m ers g ath ere d a ro und a ntiq ue o ak ta b le s

deco ra te d w it h fr e sh flo w er a rra ngem ents in o ld -fa sh io ned d og-sh ap ed v ase s o r n estle d a t ta b le s fo r tw o c o vere d w it h o ur tr a d em ark b lu e-a nd -

w hit e c heck ere d ta b le clo th s. T hro ugho ut th e d in in g r o om s w ere a ntiq ue p rin ts o f d ogs, d ogs, a nd d ogs, a nd I c o nsta ntly k ep t a n e ye o ut fo r m ore

as th e r e sta ura nt g re w in s iz e .

W hile th is w as g o in g o n, w e a ls o b egan w ork d ow nsta ir s . W e re m oved th e w all b etw een th e tw o b ase m ents a nd p oure d c o ncre te o ver th e d ir t

flo or to c re ate a la rg e s p ace fo r a fu lly e q uip ped c entr a l k it c hen. N ext to th e k it c hen, w e in sta lle d fo ur p ub lic re str o om s— it w as tim e to s to p

se nd in g o ur c usto m ers to th e fa m ily b ath ro om .

T ho ugh th ey w ere u nis e x, I la b ele d th e fir s t p air P

OIN TER S

and S

ET TER S

, p ain tin g th e S

ET TER S

bath ro om a s th e b ed ro om o f a w hit e p oodle

prim pin g h ers e lf a t h er d re ssin g ta b le w it h a b ottle o f p erfu m e la b ele d E

SSEN CE O F

D EA D

S QUIR REL

. T he P

OIN TER S

dep ic te d a n o utd oor s c ene o f

a d og lif tin g h is le g o n a tr e e w here a g ro up o f la d yb ugs s tr u ggle d to m ove th eir p ic nic o ut o f th e w ay. T he n ext tw o b ath ro om s w ere la b ele d

D EM OCRA TS

and R

EPU BLIC A NS

, w it h th e D

EM OCRA TS

deco ra te d w it h p olit ic al m essa ges th at w e c hanged o ver tim e, in clu d in g a t o ne p oin t a

portr a it o f K en S ta rr, w ho h ad in vestig ate d P re sid ent C lin to n, w it h a m essa ge p ain te d a b ove th e to ile t: H

E’S W ATCH IN G Y O U

. T he R

EPU BLIC A NS

bath ro om w as d esig ned a s a c at lit te r b ox, w it h lit te r g lu ed to th e w alls a nd a la rg e c at e xit in g. I o nce fo und a J a p anese to uris t s ta nd in g b efo re th e

doors g re atly p erp le xed a s to w hic h o f th e fo ur w as a p pro pria te fo r h im to u se .

W hen o ur b ig n ew s h in y k it c hen w as fin is h ed it w as e q uip ped w it h a lin e o f s to ves to tu rn o ut h o t it e m s; a c o ld lin e fo r p re p arin g s a la d s, c o ld

ap petiz e rs , a nd d esse rts ; a b ak e s h o p fo r m ak in g h o m em ad e b re ad , p astr ie s, a nd ic e c re am ; a lo ng w it h a d is h w ash in g r o om , a p re p a re a, a p antr y ,

and s e vera l w alk -in re fr ig era to rs . F in ally , w e w ere th e “ re al” re sta ura nt I h ad d re am ed o f, a nd th e c usto m ers w ho h ad g ro w n to a p pre cia te u s

back w hen th e d is h w ash er w as in th e d in in g r o om , th e g rill in th e b ack yard , a nd th e r e str o om in o ur h o m e, s ta yed a nd m ult ip lie d .

It w asn ’t u ntil I ta ste d fo od c o oked b y c hef A liz a G re en th at I u nd ers to od e xactly w hat I w ante d fo r th e W hit e D og C afé . H ers w as a fr e sh n ew

ap pro ach to A meric an c uis in e— one th at s h o w case d lo cal in gre d ie nts , r a th er th an o bsc urin g th em w it h h eavy s a uces. A liz a ’s fo od w as th e b est I

had e ver ta ste d — fla vo rfu l, b eautif u lly p re se nte d , a nd d ow nrig ht d elic io us, y et s im ple . In sp ir e d b y h er tr a vels a nd tim e s p ent liv in g a b ro ad w here

sh e s h o pped in lo cal m ark ets a nd c o oked a t h o m e, A liz a u nd ers to od th e im porta nce o f q ualit y in gre d ie nts u se d in s e aso n.

W hile s h e w as th e c hef a t s e vera l P hila d elp hia re sta ura nts in th e 1 970s, s h e u se d fr e sh h erb s a nd h o use -m ad e s o up b ase s w hen m ost c hefs s till

re lie d o n p ro cesse d fo ods. D urin g a tr ip to v is it th e C hez P anis se k it c hen in B erk ele y, C alif o rn ia , A liz a w as o ffe re d a jo b b y A lic e W ate rs , a n

im porta nt in flu ence a nd r o le m odel fo r A liz a . L uck ily fo r P hila d elp hia , A liz a tu rn ed d ow n th e jo b. B ut th e tr ip v alid ate d h er c ulin ary p oin t o f v ie w

and k ep t h er o n th e p ath o f fr e sh , lo cal, u np ro cesse d , v egeta b le -c entr ic , sim ple fo od— a sty le th at w as b eco m in g k no w n a s N ew A meric an

C uis in e, m ad e p opula r b y A lic e.

O nce I ta ste d A liz a ’s fo od I c o uld n o t im agin e a ny o th er c hef in P hila d elp hia a t th e W hit e D og. N ot o nly w as h er fo od u nfo rg etta b le , b ut a ls o A liz a

had s ta rte d to b uy fr o m lo cal fa rm ers — th e u nd erly in g p rin cip le I w ante d fo r th e W hit e D og C afé . S he k new th at lo cal fr e sh fo od d id n’t s p rin g u p

fo r th e a sk in g. I t c am e fr o m a s m all g ro up o f d ed ic ate d lo cal fa rm ers w ho s a id n o to p estic id es a nd g re w e very th in g o rg anic ally . T ho ugh I k new

A liz a w as th e r ig ht c hef fo r u s, a t th at tim e in 1 986, s h e w as w ork in g a s th e e xecutiv e c hef a t a p osh r e sta ura nt in C ente r C it y P hila d elp hia . H ow

co uld I c o nvin ce h er to le ave a s w ank e nvir o nm ent a nd c o m e o ut to th e u niv ers it y c o m munit y in W est P hilly to w ork in a n u nk no w n r e sta ura nt?

W hen I h eard th at A liz a w as p re gnant w it h h er fir s t c hild , I h ad a n id ea. I o ffe re d h er th e p osit io n o f e xecutiv e c hef a lo ng w it h a p riv ate r o om n ear

th e k it c hen (a d in in g ro om I w ould fo rg o fo r th e tim e b ein g) to b e a n urs e ry a nd a p la ce fo r a b ab ysit te r, s o th at h er c hild w ould b e n earb y fo r

bre ast- fe ed in g a nd n urtu rin g w hile A liz a c o ntin ued h er c are er. I t w as a n o ffe r s h e c o uld n’t r e fu se .

A liz a d evelo ped a s ty le o f c o okin g a t th e W hit e D og th at s h e c alle d

Cuis in e M ongre l

(lik e a m ix ed b re ed d og, b ut p ro no unced w it h th e a ccent o n

th e s e co nd s y lla b le to g iv e it s o m e c la ss) b ecause o f th e m ix tu re o f in flu ences s h e in co rp ora te d in to h er c uis in e, r e fle ctin g th e d iv ers it y o f A meric an

cult u re . C usto m ers fr o m a ll o ver to w n m ad e th eir w ay o ut to th e W hit e D og C afé to tr y A liz a ’s

Cuis in e M ongre l

.

A liz a b ro ught a lo ng to th e W hit e D og th e fa rm ers s h e h ad b egun to w ork w it h a nd in tr o duced m e to J u d y a nd M ark D orn str e ic h o f B ra nch C re ek

F arm , w ho g ro w e xtr a o rd in ary o rg anic m ic ro gre ens, s p ecia lt y v egeta b le s, a nd e d ib le flo w ers o n th eir fiv e-a cre fa rm w it h th re e g re enho use s fo r gro w in g rig ht th ro ugh th e w in te r. E sta b lis h in g th eir fa rm to th e n o rth o f P hila d elp hia n ear P erk asie in 1 979, J u d y a nd M ark w ere p io neers in th e

org anic fo od m ovem ent a nd th e fir s t in o ur r e gio n to s u p ply th e r e sta ura nts o f P hila d elp hia w it h fr e sh lo cal p ro duce. T ho ugh th ey fir s t b alk ed a t th e

id ea o f fo llo w in g A liz a to o ut- o f- th e-w ay W est P hila d elp hia , b efo re lo ng th e W hit e D og w as b uyin g in s u ch q uantit ie s th at th e d is ta nce d id n’t

m atte r.

T he D orn str e ic hs m ay b e th e m ost u nusu al fa rm ers y o u w ill e ver m eet, h avin g m oved fr o m lif e a s Iv y L eague– ed ucate d J e w is h p ro fe ssio nals in

N ew Y ork C it y to r u ra l fa rm lif e in B uck s C ounty . I n sp ir a tio n fo r th e m ove c am e fir s t fr o m liv in g w it h in d ig eno us fa rm ers in N ew G uin ea, w here

M ark w as w ork in g o n h is P hD in e co lo gic al a nth ro polo gy. T his e xp erie nce w as fo llo w ed b y a s p ir it u al jo urn ey to a n a sh ra m in I n d ia , in sp ir e d b y

Ju d y, to s tu d y w it h a s w am i, d urin g w hic h tim e M ark a nno unced s im ply , “ I w ant to g ro w v egeta b le s.” A nd g ro w v egeta b le s h e d id , b eco m in g

kno w n fo r h is in no vatio n in c ult iv atin g e xcep tio nal o rg anic fo od fo r m ore th an th ir ty y ears .

B oth J u d y a nd M ark a re d eep ly th o ughtfu l a b out th eir w ork . M ark o nce n o te d th at fa rm ers m ust h ave b oth tr a d it io nal fe m ale a nd m ale q ualit ie s to

su cceed — both n urtu rin g a nd e ffic ie ncy, e ach in th e rig ht b ala nce. “T oo m uch e ffic ie ncy c an e nd u p in m ed io crit y ,” M ark e xp la in ed , “b ut n o t

eno ugh e ffic ie ncy w ill e nd u p in b ank ru p tc y, n o m atte r h o w m uch n urtu rin g th e p la nts r e ceiv e.”

G ettin g to k no w J u d y a nd M ark , v is it in g th eir h o m e, a nd fe elin g th eir in tim ate r e la tio nsh ip w it h th e la nd h ad th e e ffe ct o n m e o f s e ein g in lo cal, fr e sh

fo od m ore th an a w ond erfu l m eal. I t w as a w ay o f c o nnectin g w it h th e la nd a nd to lif e it s e lf .

A no th er e arly s u p plie r o f o rg anic fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s w as G re en M ead ow F arm in L ancaste r C ounty , r u n b y G le nn a nd K are n B re nd le a nd la te r

th eir s o n I a n. F arm er G le nn, a s h e is k no w n, a ls o b uilt a b usin ess o f p ic k in g u p p ro duce, e ggs, a nd m eat fr o m h is A mis h n eig hb ors — who o f c o urs e

do n o t d riv e— and s e llin g th em in th e c it y . A n e ngin eer b y tr a in in g, G le nn d evelo ped a s y ste m o n h is fa rm to c o nvert u se d fr y o il, w hic h h e p ic k ed

up fr o m h is r e sta ura nt c usto m ers , in to h eatin g o il. H e s u cceed ed in p ow erin g e very th in g o n th e fa rm w it h th at r e cla im ed v egeta b le o il— fr o m h eatin g

th e g re enho use s a nd th e fa rm ho use to ru nnin g th e tr a cto r, tr u ck , a nd c ar. G le nn’s s y ste m w as o ne in ventiv e s te p in re d ucin g c arb on, a s w ell a s

lo w erin g th e c o st o f e nerg y. “ M y c usto m ers h ave g o t to s e e th is ,” I th o ught, a nd b ro ught a g ro up to v is it th e fa rm o n o ne o f o ur m any c o m munit y

to urs .

G le nn tu rn ed o ut to b e a s to re ho use o f k no w le d ge a b out L ancaste r C ounty , a nd o ne d ay w hen I h ap pened to m entio n th at I h ad a ncesto rs w ho

had s e ttle d in th e a re a a s p io neers , G le nn s u rp ris e d m e b y k no w in g a ll a b out th em . In h is v egeta b le -o il- p ow ere d c ar, G le nn to ok m e to v is it th e

cem ete ry w here m y fo re m oth er, M ad am e F erre e, a F re nch H ugueno t w ho h ad b ought la nd fr o m W illia m P enn a fte r fle ein g r e lig io us p ers e cutio n in

F ra nce, w as b urie d a fe w y ears a fte r s h e a nd h er o ffs p rin g fo und ed th e to w n o f P ara d is e in 1 712 n o t fa r fr o m G re en M ead ow F arm .

It s e em ed a p pro pria te — and s o m eho w rig ht— th at m uch o f th e fo od a t th e W hit e D og w as s o urc ed fr o m th e s a m e a re a th at m y a ncesto rs fir s t

fa rm ed th re e h und re d y ears a go . W hen m y d aughte r G ra ce, h o m e fr o m c o lle ge a nd a b out tw enty -fo ur, to ok u p fa rm in g fo r a s u m mer w it h G le nn

and K are n, I w as h ap py to th in k th at a d esc end ant o f M ad am e F erre e’s w as b ack fa rm in g th e la nd o nce a gain .

W it h th e b usin ess d oin g w ell, I g o t to th e p oin t w here I w as n o lo nger s im ply k eep in g m y h ead ju st a b ove w ate r, a nd I b egan lo okin g fo r w ays to

exp re ss a nd c ele b ra te th e v alu es a nd p eo ple I c are d a b out. A s lu ck w ould h ave it , I h ad th e o pportu nit y to s ta rt w it h M artin L uth er K in g, J r., a

m an w ho h ad lo ng b een m y g re ate st h ero .

In J a nuary o f 1 986, a fte r y ears o f d eb ate , th e fir s t fe d era l h o lid ay h o no rin g M artin L uth er K in g, J r., w ent in to e ffe ct, a nd I d ecid ed th at fo r th e n ext

M artin L uth er K in g D ay in J a nuary o f 1 987 th e W hit e D og w ould h o ld a d in ner in h is h o no r. W hen I to ld m y m oth er a b out th e id ea o f c ele b ra tin g

M artin L uth er K in g D ay w it h a n e vent a t th e W hit e D og, h er re sp onse s u rp ris e d m e: “ B ut J u d y, th at’s a b la ck p eo ple ’s h o lid ay.” If m y m oth er,

w ho m I s a w a s a n in clu siv e, o pen-m in d ed p ers o n, fe lt th is w ay, th en I im agin ed th at a lo t o f p eo ple lik ely s a w th e K in g n atio nal h o lid ay a s a “ b la ck

ho lid ay.” T hat m ad e m e w ant to d o th e e vent a ll th e m ore w it h th e h o pe th at p eo ple o f m any r a ces w ould c o m e to geth er o n th is d ay to h o no r a

m an w ho se d re am w as fo r u s a ll to lo ve o ne a no th er— and to b e fu rth er in sp ir e d to w ard a chie vin g th at d re am .

T he W hit e D og d in ner in h o no r o f M artin L uth er K in g, J r., in 1 987 b ecam e th e fir s t o f m any s p ecia l e vents . T he la rg e d in in g r o om o n th e p orc h

held fif ty p eo ple , a nd w it h th e w in d ow s o f th e a d jo in in g r o om s o pen w e c o uld h o ld a to ta l o f e ig hty p eo ple — all a b le to h ear a s p eak er. I a sk ed a

pro m in ent A fr ic an A meric an m in is te r, L eo nard S m alls , w ho h ad b een a c iv il r ig hts a ctiv is t, to d o a b le ssin g. T hre e g o sp el s in gers a nd a k eyb oard

pla yer a d ded to th e fe stiv it ie s, a nd w e b egan th e e venin g w it h

Lif t E very V oic e a nd S in g

, so m etim es re fe rre d to a s “T he A fr ic an A meric an

N atio nal A nth em ,” a nd th o se w ho d id n o t k no w it b y h eart fo llo w ed th e w ord s I h ad p rin te d o ut in o ur p ro gra m . I in vit e d M ayo r W ils o n G oode,

th e fir s t b la ck m ayo r o f P hila d elp hia , to c o m e, a nd h e a ccep te d a lo ng w it h h is w if e . T he k it c hen d evelo ped a S outh ern -sty le m enu th at w e s e rv ed

fa m ily s ty le , w it h e very o ne g ro up ed a ro und ta b le s o f fo ur to te n p eo ple . T he m ayo r e njo yed th e fo od b ut d ecla re d th at o ur b la ck -e yed p eas d id

no t m easu re u p to h is m oth er’s , a nd th e fo llo w in g y ear— our M artin L uth er K in g D ay m em oria l d in ner b ecam e a n a nnual e vent— he c am e b ack , a s

he d id e very y ear w hile h e w as m ayo r, b rin gin g a b ig d is h o f S outh ern -sty le b la ck -e yed p eas c o oked b y h is m oth er.

A fe w y ears la te r, o ra to r R ose S am uel E vans jo in ed th e p ro gra m a nd r e cit e d K in g’s s p eeches fr o m m em ory to th e d elig ht o f o ur c usto m ers ; a b out

half o f th em w ere E uro pean A meric an, n early h alf w ere A fr ic an A meric an, a nd a fe w w ere A sia n a nd L atin o . K in g w ould h ave b een p le ase d . A fte r

din ner w e h ad a m ovin g g ro up d is c ussio n a b out h o w K in g’s w ork h ad in flu enced o ur liv es, a nd e nd ed b y s ta nd in g, jo in in g h and s, a nd s in gin g “ W e

S hall O verc o m e,” r e m in d in g u s th at th ere is s till w ork to b e d one, a s w e e nd ed a n e venin g fu ll o f h o pe a nd in sp ir a tio n.

F or tw enty -tw o years w e held th at m em oria l d in ner w it h a sim ila r p ro gra m every Ja nuary , alo ng w it h an o pportu nit y fo r custo m ers to d o

co m munit y s e rv ic e p ro je cts d urin g th e d ay. T ho ugh w e d evelo ped m any m ore s p ecia l d in ners th at a ls o b ecam e a nnual tr a d it io ns, o ur M artin L uth er

K in g D ay d in ner w as a lw ays m y fa vo rit e , a nd I to ok th e o ccasio n to lis te n a gain to h is s tir rin g s p eeches o n ta p e o r v id eo .

In 1 987, a fte r a y ear a s o ur h ead c hef, A liz a , w it h p la ns fo r a s e co nd c hild , le ft th e W hit e D og a nd b egan w ork a t h o m e o n a s u ccessfu l c are er a s a

fo od w rit e r a nd c o okbook a uth o r. (A t th is w rit in g, s h e h as p ub lis h ed te n o uts ta nd in g c o okbooks.) A liz a ’s u nd er- c hef, K evin K la use , w ho m s h e

had b ro ught w it h h er to th e W hit e D og, to ok o ver a s e xecutiv e c hef, b uild in g w it h h is o w n g re at ta le nt a nd u niq ue fla ir o n w hat A liz a h ad s ta rte d .

T he fir s t tim e I m et K evin , I w as w ork in g a t m y d esk w hen I lo oked u p to s e e a fig ure d re sse d a ll in b la ck , w it h a lo ng c ap e a nd b ow le r h at. I fe lt

as th o ugh a m agic ia n h ad e nte re d th e ro om . I s o on le arn ed th at K evin p erfo rm ed h is m agic in th e k it c hen. A ls o c o m mit te d to lo cal in gre d ie nts ,

K evin s o on b ecam e k no w n fo r h is a b ilit y to ju ggle o rd ers fr o m m any d if fe re nt fa rm ers , c re atin g d is h es fr o m th e v arie ty o f fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s

bro ught to h im a t o ur b ack door a s th ey c am e in to s e aso n a nd le arn in g to u se a ll th e p arts w hen b uyin g a w ho le fa rm a nim al. K evin ’s r o om mate a nd

fe llo w g ra d uate o f th e C ulin ary In stit u te o f A meric a, J a m es B arre tt, b ecam e o ur p astr y c hef a nd b re ad b ak er e xtr a o rd in air e . K evin a nd J a m es

m ad e a n e xcelle nt te am , a nd o ver th e c o m in g y ears th ey w ould le ad th e W hit e D og to w ard c ulin ary a ccla im .

T ho ugh o ur fir s t r e aso n fo r b uyin g fr o m lo cal fa rm ers b ack in 1 986 w as b ecause fr e sh -p ic k ed fo od ta ste s b ette r, w e c am e to u nd ers ta nd th at lo cal

fo od tr a nsc end s c ulin ary v alu e. F re sh fo od is a ctu ally b ette r fo r y o u, a nd th is b ecam e p art o f th e W hit e D og’s c o m mit m ent to fr e sh a nd lo cal.

W hen fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s a re g ro w n c o m merc ia lly fo r lo ng d is ta nce s h ip pin g th ey a re b re d fo r lo ng s h elf lif e a s w ell a s u nif o rm it y o f s iz e fo r e ase

in p ack in g. W hat g ets b re d o ut is th e ta ste a nd th e n utr it io nal v alu e. W e a ll k no w th o se fla vo rle ss, b la nd , m ealy te xtu re d to m ato es a nd p eaches th at

co m e fr o m s to re s c arry in g th e s a m e fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s y ear- ro und . W hen n o t e ate n in s e aso n, fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s a re s h ip ped lo ng d is ta nce,

usin g lo ts o f c arb on a nd n o t e ven ta stin g th at g o od w hen th ey fin ally a rriv e. E ven th o ugh d urin g th e w in te r th e W hit e D og d id b uy fr o m o rg anic

fa rm s in C alif o rn ia o r in th e S outh to a ugm ent a m enu b ase d o n lo cal g re enho use -g ro w n a nd c o ld -sto ra ge fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s, w e c o oked a s

m uch a s p ossib le in s e aso n. N ot o nly d id th e fo od ta ste b ette r, n o t o nly w as it h ealt h ie r— at th e W hit e D og a ntic ip atio n fo r th e a rriv al o f s e aso nal

fla vo rs w as fu n.

O n a b la ck board in th e h allw ay, w e w ould lis t th e fo ods c o m in g fr o m lo cal fa rm s. W hen th e fir s t fr u it s a nd v egeta b le s c am e in to s e aso n a fte r th e

lo ng w in te r o f e atin g c o ld -sto ra ge a p ple s, s q uash , a nd p ota to es, w rit in g o n th e b oard in b ig le tte rs H

OORA Y, R H UBA RB IS H ER E!

was c ause fo r

cele b ra tio n. K evin p ut d uck w it h rh ub arb s a uce o n th e m enu, a nd J a m es a d ded rh ub arb p ie to th e d esse rt m enu, a nd s o m etim es w e e ven h ad

rh ub arb ic e c re am . N ext w ould c o m e a sp ara gus se aso n, th en str a w berrie s in la te M ay a nd Ju ne— and b efo re lo ng th e b la ck board w ould b e

cro w ded w it h c herrie s, p lu m s, b lu eb errie s, p eaches, b eans, s q uash , to m ato es, c o rn , a nd m ore a nd m ore u ntil th e w ho le b la ck board w as fu ll o f th e

delic io us s e aso nal h arv est o f lo cal fa rm s.

W hen w e b ought fr o m lo cal fa rm ers , th ey b ecam e p art o f th e W hit e D og’s e xte nd ed fa m ily a nd p art o f th e lo cal fo od c o m munit y . K no w in g th ese

peo ple a nd th eir fa rm s m eant k no w in g e xactly w here o ur fo od c am e fr o m a nd h o w it w as p ro duced . T his in fo rm atio n b ecam e m ore a nd m ore

im porta nt o ver th e y ears w it h th e in cre asin g n um ber o f n atio nal fo od r e calls fo r ta in te d m eat, s p in ach, a nd e ven le ttu ce. W e w ere a b le to a ssu re o ur

custo m ers th at w e k new w here o ur fo od c am e fr o m a nd th at it w as r a is e d in a s a fe a nd s u sta in ab le w ay.

O ver th e y ears , I c o ntin ued to r e co gniz e m ore r e aso ns w hy b uyin g fr o m lo cal fa rm ers w as a g o od th in g— fr o m k eep in g o ur d olla rs c ir c ula tin g in th e

lo cal e co no m y to g iv in g lo cal fa rm ers a g uara nte ed m ark et fo r r e sp onsib ly p ro duced g o ods. P erh ap s m ost im porta nt a m ong th e r e aso ns w as th at

develo pin g o ur lo cal fo od s y ste m p ro vid ed fo od s e curit y fo r o ur r e gio n, d ecre asin g o ur d ep end ency o n lo ng s u p ply c hain s a nd h ig h-c arb on, lo ng

dis ta nce s h ip pin g.

T he W hit e D og lo ved to c ele b ra te — as y o u m ay h ave g ath ere d b y n o w — and a s th e y ears w ent b y, I fe lt th at w e h ad m ore a nd m ore to c ele b ra te .

S o I b egan d evelo pin g m any s p ecia l e vents h ig hlig htin g o ur o uts ta nd in g fo od a nd o ur u nusu al s e le ctio ns o f A meric an w in e a nd lo cal b eer. I n 1 987,

w e b egan a n a nnual tr a d it io n o f h o ld in g b eer d in ners to e d ucate o ur c usto m ers a b out th e q ualit ie s o f fr e sh lo cal b eer. K evin d evelo ped a s p ecia l

m enu th at p air e d e ach c o urs e w it h a d if fe re nt b eer. M ayb e th at d oes n o t s e em u nusu al to day, b ut b ack th en h o ld in g a s p ecia l d in ner th at fe atu re d

beer, e sp ecia lly lo cal b eer, w as u niq ue. F or th e fir s t fe w y ears w e s ta rte d o ff w it h a r e cep tio n in m y h o m e u p sta ir s , w here a s ta tio n w as s e t u p fo r

each o f th re e o r m ore b re w ers to m eet th e c usto m ers a nd o ffe r a s a m plin g o f o ne o f th eir b eers p air e d w it h a n h o rs d ’o euvre . T he c usto m ers

enjo yed th e o pportu nit y to m in gle w it h o th ers a nd g et to k no w th e b re w maste rs , w ho a ls o s p oke d urin g th e d in ner a s e ach c o urs e w as s e rv ed .

C usto m ers w ere in tr ig ued w it h th e id ea o f v is it in g o ur h o m e a b ove th e r e sta ura nt, g ra d ually r e fu rn is h ed a fte r lo sin g it s fu rn it u re to th e r e sta ura nt in

th e e arly d ays. A fte r a ll, a nyo ne w ho h ad v entu re d in to th e h allw ays h ad lik ely lo oked u p th ro ugh th e tr a nslu cent g la ss-b lo ck flo ors to s e e s h ap es

m ovin g a ro und a b ove th em , in clu d in g lit tle d og a nd c at p aw s p re sse d a gain st th e g la ss. O ne n ig ht w hile c le anin g u p a fte r o ne o f th e p artie s in th e

ho use , a g ro up o f s e rv ers a nd I, in a fit o f h yste ria , d ecid ed to e ach s it d ow n o n a g la ss b lo ck — exp osin g o ur d errie re s to th o se b elo w , w hic h

pro m pte d m y s is te r- in -la w to q uip , “ Ju d y h as n o w s h o w n h er c usto m ers h er b otto m lin e!”

B eer d in ners w ere o nly th e s ta rt. T he s a m e y ear, in c ele b ra tio n o f th e fa ll h arv est, w e h eld o ur fir s t a nnual F arm ers S und ay S up per w here e ach

co urs e fe atu re d a d if fe re nt fa rm o r lo cal p ro ducer w ho s p oke a b out th eir fa rm o r b usin ess a nd p ro duct. I n N ovem ber, w e s ta rte d a n a nnual w in e

din ner I n am ed th e P ost- C ru sh I n vit a tio nal fe atu rin g w in em ak ers fr o m s m all C alif o rn ia v in eyard s o n o ur w in e lis t, s u ch a s F ro g’s L eap a nd B onny

D oon, w ho v is it e d u s ju st a fte r th e b usy g ra p e c ru sh in g s e aso n. T hese a nnual d in ners b ecam e a W hit e D og h allm ark a nd a w ay fo r o ur c usto m ers

to m eet a nd le arn fr o m th e fa rm ers , w in em ak ers , b re w ers , c heese m ak ers , fis h erm an, a nd c ho co la tie rs w ho p ro duced th e fo od a nd d rin k w e a ll

enjo yed .

S om e e vents a t th e W hit e D og w ere ju st fo r fu n. I ’m a p arty g ir l— I a d m it it . F or m e, fu n w as a n im porta nt p art o f th e b usin ess, a nd I m ad e s u re to m ak e it a b ig p art o f lif e a t th e W hit e D og a nd th e c o m munit y th at d evelo ped a ro und it . W e c ele b ra te d in th e s tr e et w it h th e D ance o f th e R ip e

Tom ato es, R um & R eggae n ig ht, a nd N oche L atin a w it h d ancin g to liv e b and s u nd er c o lo re d lig hts s tr u ng a lo ng th e s tr e et. W it h s o m any o utd oor

partie s, I b ought o ur o w n te nts a nd s to re d th em in a w are ho use fu ll o f p ro ps, in clu d in g p alm tr e es, h uge s tu ffe d to m ato es m y m om h elp ed m e m ak e

out o f r e d s a tin b ed s h eets w it h g re en fe lt fa ces, a nd a B astille th at w e r e asse m ble d e ach y ear.

F or tw enty -fiv e y ears , I c o ntin ued th e B astille D ay c ele b ra tio n I h ad d evelo ped a t L a T erra sse , fo r a d ay c allin g th e W hit e D og “ C afé C hein

B la nc.” A fte r a F re nch d in ner s e rv ed u nd er te nt- to p c am e o ur a nnual r e enactm ent o f th e s to rm in g o f th e B astille , in w hic h tw o g ro up s o f c usto m ers

pla yed ro le s. In sid e th e eig ht- b y-fo ur- fo ot B astille th at to w ere d ab out tw elv e fe et ta ll, p ain te d to lo ok lik e a sto ne fo rtr e ss, w e lo ck ed up

custo m ers d re sse d a s w hit e F re nch p oodle s w earin g r e d b ere ts . J u st a s th e a ud ie nce fin is h ed s in gin g “ L a M ars e illa is e ,” s p ark le rs h eld h ig h, a no th er

gro up o f c usto m ers th at w e d re sse d u p a s F re nch r e vo lu tio narie s s to rm ed th e B astille w it h p la stic a xes a nd s w ord s, w avin g th e F re nch fla g a s th ey

re le ase d a ll th e “ p oodle s.” T hen th e r e vo lu tio narie s a nd p oodle s jo in ed in th e c ancan to k ic k o ff a n ig ht o f d ancin g to a m ix tu re o f A meric an a nd

F re nch m usic , u sin g s o m e o f th e s a m e s o ngs I fir s t p la yed s o lo ng a go a t L a T erra sse .

A no th er L a T erra sse e vent th at I b ro ught w it h m e to th e W hit e D og w as o ur N ew Y ear’s D ay P aja m a P arty B ru nch. O ne y ear w hen I w as

pre gnant a nd tir e d fr o m b ein g u p la te th e n ig ht b efo re , I d ecid ed to ta k e th e lib erty to g o to L a T erra sse in m y p aja m as. T hat m ad e m e r e aliz e th at

m ost p eo ple lik ely fe el th e s a m e w ay o n N ew Y ear’s m orn in g a fte r b ein g u p la te p arty in g th e n ig ht b efo re .

T he n ext y ear I s e nt o ut a n in vit a tio n th at s a id , “ D on’t g et d re sse d . J u st ta k e tw o a sp ir in a nd p ad o n o ver in y o ur s lip pers a nd r o be to o ur N ew

Y ear’s D ay P aja m a P arty B ru nch.” I h ad to c o nvin ce m y fa m ily a nd fr ie nd s to b e th e fir s t a nd e ven b ought m y fa th er n ew p aja m as s o h e w ould n o t

have a ny e xcuse s. O ver tim e, a nd a fte r I m oved th e id ea to th e W hit e D og, it b ecam e a fa m ous e vent, a nd h und re d s o f p eo ple s h o w ed u p a t

W hit e D og in th eir p aja m as a nd w ere e nte rta in ed b y a b anjo p la yer p la yin g s o ngs lik e “ O h D em G old en S lip pers ,” a nd o th er fa vo rit e s o f th e

M um mers P ara d e, a P hila d elp hia N ew Y ear’s D ay tr a d it io n. A s p eo ple a rriv ed in th eir p aja m as a nd ro bes, I to ok p ic tu re s, a nd p oste d m y

gro w in g c o lle ctio n o f p ho to s o n th e w all e ach N ew Y ear’s D ay fo r c usto m ers to e njo y. T here w as a w ho le s e rie s I to ok o ver m any y ears o f a

fa m ily o f s ix w ho e ach tim e c am e w earin g a n ew s e t o f m atc hin g fla nnel p aja m as m ad e b y th e g ra nd m oth er. I r e m em ber a c o lle ge s tu d ent c o m in g in

w it h h is g ir lf r ie nd to p oin t o ut a p ic tu re s h o w in g h im in h is p aja m as h o ld in g h is te d dy b ear, a p ho to I to ok w hen h e w as fo ur.

O n th e e ve o f th e F ourth o f J u ly , w e h ad th e L ib erty a nd J u stic e fo r A ll B all, a nd o n a s ta ge in th e s tr e et o uts id e th e r e sta ura nt I p re se nte d a s k it

ca lle d

The B ir th o f th e N atio n

. F ir s t c am e a R evo lu tio nary W ar s o ld ie r w it h h is d ru m , th en a m id w if e w it h h er la nte rn , a nd th en I c am e o ut

dre sse d a s a p re gnant c o lo nia l w om an— wit h a c lo w n fa ce, a lit tle c o lo nia l c ap , a nd a s ig n o n m y b ack th at s a id G

EO RGE

W ASH IN GTO N S LEPT

H ER E

. I g o t in to a b ig b ed in th e s tr e et, a nd m y m id w if e d eliv ere d tw in s— a w hit e w om an a nd a b la ck w om an e ach d re sse d in r e d , w hit e , a nd b lu e,

one h o ld in g a s ig n s a yin g J u stic e, th e o th er a s ig n s a yin g L

IB ER TY

. T hey h o pped o nto th e s ta ge a nd d id a ta p d ance to “ Y ank ee D oodle D and y.”

T hen w e w heele d o ut th e S ta tu e o f L ib erty c o vere d in p ale g re en, w hic h w as o fte n m y d aughte r G ra ce o r m y c o usin D eb bie b ecause th ey’re ta ll.

W e lit o ur s p ark le rs a nd s a ng “ G od B le ss A meric a.” I t w as v ery p atr io tic !

A c usto m er o nce g ave m e a b ook b y B arb ara E hre nre ic h,

Dancin g in t h e S tre ets

, w hic h ta lk s a b out th e im porta nce o f “ c o lle ctiv e jo y” a nd h o w

it is o fte n m is sin g in o ur m odern in d ustr ia liz e d , m ate ria lis tic s o cie ty . W e’v e c o m e to th in k th at a g o od tim e m eans s p end in g a lo t o f m oney a nd

burn in g a lo t o f c arb on tr a velin g to d is ta nt p la ces to b e e nte rta in ed . B ut w e c an h ave m ore fu n w it h o ur fr ie nd s a nd n eig hb ors rig ht in o ur o w n

co m munit ie s. In m y h o m eto w n o f In go m ar, th e a nnual c o m munit y h o lid ay p arty w as th ro w n b y th e lo cal g ro cery sto re . T hat’s a no th er o fte n

overlo oked b ut h ugely im porta nt r o le p la yed b y lo cal b usin esse s— ho stin g e vents th at b rin g c o lle ctiv e jo y to th e c o m munit y .

I a ls o c lo se d th e re sta ura nt a fe w tim es a y ear to h o ld p artie s ju st fo r W hit e D og s ta ff— a s u m mer p ic nic a nd o ur h o lid ay p arty w here w e to ok

tu rn s d re ssin g u p a s M r. S anta a nd H arrie t H anuk kah to p ass o ut fu nny g if ts . B ut o ur m ost im porta nt a nnual s ta ff g ath erin g w as th e A nniv ers a ry

H ow l, w here w e “ h o w le d ” a b out w hat w e h ad a cco m plis h ed d urin g th e y ear. I n a r e sta ura nt, a lo t o f th e s ta ff— th e m ajo rit y o f s e rv ers , b arte nd ers ,

busb oys, c o oks— are e it h er in s c ho ol o r th ey p la y in a b and o r m ak e a rt, a nd w hat th ey d o in th e r e sta ura nt is n o t n ecessa rily w hat th ey c o nsid er

to b e th eir r e al jo b. F or a w hile th is r e ally fr u str a te d m e. I w ante d e very o ne to b e a s c o m mit te d to th eir c are er in th e r e sta ura nt b usin ess a s I w as,

until I fin ally r e aliz e d th at I w as n ever g o in g to g et th ere a nd th at I a ctu ally e njo yed th e d iv ers it y o f in te re sts . S o I s ta rte d o ur A nniv ers a ry H ow l to

cele b ra te n o t o nly w hat w e h ad a cco m plis h ed a s a w ork pla ce c o m munit y b ut a ls o w hat w e h ad a cco m plis h ed a s in d iv id uals . P eo ple b ro ught in

th eir a rtw ork , p la yed th e c la rin et, p erfo rm ed b re ak d ancin g, o r r e ad p oetr y s o th at w e a ll g o t to k no w e ach o th er a lit tle b it b ette r.

F or m y p art, I g ave a “ S ta te o f th e D og” a d dre ss, r e p ortin g h o w w e d id in m eetin g o ur m is sio n o f s e rv ic e o ver th e y ear a nd p ostin g th e g o od p re ss

w e h ad r e ceiv ed a nd a w ard s w e h ad w on. I s h o w ed c harts p ut to geth er b y o ur lo ng-tim e fin ancia l o ffic er D eir d re M acD erm ott, w hic h s h o w ed o ur

sa le s, e xp ense s, a nd th e y ear’s p ro fit . A nd th en h o w th at p ro fit w as u se d fo r s u ch th in gs a s b uyin g n ew e q uip m ent, p ayin g d ow n d eb t, a nd s h arin g

pro fit s w it h s ta ff. In g o od y ears , w e g ave 1 0 p erc ent o f th e p ro fit to th e s ta ff in b onuse s I h and ed o ut th at n ig ht, p lu s 5 p erc ent to K evin w ho

becam e a 5 p erc ent s to ck ho ld er. A t th e b egin nin g 1 0 p erc ent, a nd la te r 2 0 p erc ent, w ent to c o ntr ib utio ns to n o np ro fit o rg aniz a tio ns th at w e lis te d

on th e w all a t th e H ow l.

I r e co gniz e d e m plo yees w ho h ad v o lu nte ere d a t c o m munit y s e rv ic e e vents d urin g th e y ear, p artic ip ate d in th e e m plo yer- m atc hed c harit a b le g iv in g

pro gra m , o r c o ntr ib ute d to ( o r w ere r e cip ie nts o f ) th e S unsh in e F und — a s ta sh m ad e u p o f v o lu nta ry c o ntr ib utio ns d ra w n fr o m p aycheck s, u su ally

one d olla r p er w eek a nd m atc hed b y th e b usin ess, th at p ro vid ed e m erg ency h and outs to e m plo yees g o in g th ro ugh h ard tim es s u ch a s a n a ccid ent,

fir e , o r illn ess. A ll th ese w ere w ays th at th e s ta ff jo in ed in o ur m is sio n o f s e rv ic e. I t w as e xcit in g to m e w hen a d is h w ash er b ecam e a p hila nth ro pis t

by c o ntr ib utin g a d olla r a w eek in o ur c harit a b le g iv in g p ro gra m , w hic h w hen m atc hed b y th e c o m pany b ecam e a n a nnual c o ntr ib utio n o f $ 104 to

th e c harit y h e c ho se .

N ext I p re se nte d th e S ilv er B one A w ard s— ste rlin g la p el p in s in th e s h ap e o f d og b ones— in c ele b ra tio n o f fiv e-y ear a nniv ers a rie s, a nd o th er th ank

yo u g if ts fo r te n-, fif te en-, a nd tw enty -y ear a nniv ers a rie s. B est e m plo yee a w ard s— su ch a s th e G re yho und A w ard fo r th e fa ste st a nd th e R in T in

Tin A w ard fo r c o m in g to th e re sc ue— were c ho se n b y th e s ta ff a nd a nno unced lik e th e A cad em y A w ard s in s e ale d e nvelo pes. P la tte rs o f fo od

w ere p ut o ut b y th e k it c hen, a nd a fte r th e in fo rm atio nal p art o f th e m eetin g w as fin is h ed , th e b arte nd ers b ro ught o ut b eer a nd w in e. T he H ow l alw ays e nd ed w it h a c o ncert b y th e W hit e D og B and , m ad e u p o f s in gers , g uit a r p la yers , d ru m mers , a nd a ny o th er ty p e o f m usic ia n w e h ad in o ur

ra nk s. T he H ow l w as o ne o f th e h ap pie st tim es o f th e y ear a t th e W hit e D og— a n ig ht o f m eanin g a nd m errim ent w hen w e se rv ed n o t o ur

custo m ers , b ut e ach o th er.

In th e m eantim e th e b usin ess w as g ro w in g— but in a n ew w ay. W e o pened a re ta il s to re n ext d oor. A s a c o ntr a st to W hit e D og, I c alle d it th e

B la ck C at. I n A pril 1 989 w e e xp and ed th e b usin ess in to th e fir s t flo ors o f o ur th ir d a nd fo urth h o use s to m ak e s p ace fo r a g o od-siz e d s to re w here

w e s o ld u niq ue g if ts a nd c ra fts . I s a w th is a s a c o m panio n b usin ess to th e W hit e D og th at w ould a d d to th e liv elin ess o f o ur b lo ck .

C usto m ers e njo yed s tr o llin g d ow n th e h allw ay b etw een th e D og a nd th e C at to e xp lo re th e g if t s h o p b efo re o r a fte r a m eal, r o am in g th ro ugh th e

sto re ’s s e ven r o om s, e ach o f w hic h w as d esig ned a s a r o om in a h o use — kit c hen, d in in g r o om , liv in g r o om , b ed ro om , b ath ro om , s tu d y, a nd p orc h.

E very th in g, in clu d in g th e fu rn it u re , w as fo r s a le , fr o m th e g la ssw are a nd c era m ic s in th e d in in g r o om , to b ir d ho use s a nd r o ck in g c hair s o n th e p orc h,

to b ooks a nd s ta tio nery in th e d esk o f th e s tu d y, to u nd erw ear a nd s o ck s in th e d re sse r d ra w ers in th e b ed ro om , to s o ap s a nd lo tio ns in th e

bath ro om a nd a b ath tu b fu ll o f s q ueak y r u b ber fr o gs ( o ne o f o ur b est s e lle rs !).

I u se d th e s k ills a nd k no w le d ge I h ad g ain ed s ta rtin g F re e P eo ple ’s S to re b ut a d ded a fe atu re o f s e llin g s o cia lly r e sp onsib le p ro ducts to e xp re ss

m y e vo lv in g s o cia l c o nsc io usn ess. I s a w th at th e c usto m ers w e w ere c ult iv atin g a t th e W hit e D og e njo yed fin d in g g if ts th at h ad m eanin g— boxes

m ad e b y B ra zilia n s tr e et c hild re n o ut o f in vasiv e v in es th at n eed ed to b e c ut d ow n, s o up m ix es p ack aged b y h o m ele ss w om en s u ffe rin g fr o m

dom estic a b use , p ic tu re fr a m es m ad e in T haila nd b y fo rm er p ro stit u te s, a nd je w elr y m ad e fr o m r e cycle d M ard i G ra s b all g o w ns a nd o ld te le vis io n

parts a sse m ble d b y h o m ele ss a nd d is a b le d w ork ers in N ew O rle ans.

A n e nth usia stic y o ung m an r ig ht o ut o f d esig n s c ho ol, E ric T uck er, w ho h ad e xcelle nt ta ste in m erc hand iz in g a nd a g o od s e nse o f h um or, b egan a s

a s a le sp ers o n a lm ost fr o m th e d ay th e B la ck C at o pened a nd s o on b ecam e th e m anager. In th e e arly d ays, E ric a nd I d id th e b uyin g to geth er,

in clu d in g a ntiq ue fu rn it u re fr o m a uctio ns. A fte r w e s w eate d a nd la ughed o ur w ay th ro ugh m any a d ay o f lo ad in g a nd u nlo ad in g fu rn it u re to geth er,

w e d evelo ped o ur p re te nd b usin ess o f T uck er a nd W ic k s M ovin g C om pany, w hic h k ep t u s a m use d . E ventu ally E ric d id a ll th e b uyin g a s w ell a s

m anagin g a nd s ta yed fo r tw enty y ears , h elp in g to m ak e th e B la ck C at a s p ecia l p la ce in it s o w n r ig ht d esp it e it s m ore fa m ous d oggy n eig hb or. T he

B la ck C at a d ded a w ho le n ew d im ensio n to th e e xp erie nce o f v is it in g th e W hit e D og, a s w ell a s a n a d dit io nal $ 500,0 00 in a nnual s a le s.

In a c o up le o f y ears , w e e xp and ed th e W hit e D og a gain , c uttin g m ore d oorw ays th ro ugh th e w alls to a d d y et a no th er h o use . W e w ere n o w u p to

fiv e r o w h o use s c o nnecte d a t th e fir s t flo or le vel w it h a h allw ay r u nnin g r ig ht th ro ugh th e m id dle o f a ll o f th em . W e m oved th e B la ck C at in to th e

fo urth a nd fif th h o use s a nd e xp and ed th e W hit e D og in to th e th ir d h o use w here th e B la ck C at h ad s ta rte d , c re atin g a p ia no r o om — I ju st h ad to

have a g o od p la ce fo r a p ia no — wit h a s m all b ar a nd in cre asin g th e s e atin g to tw o h und re d p eo ple . W e h ad c o m e s o fa r fr o m o ur m uffin s ta rt th at it

w as h ard to im agin e th o se h um ble b egin nin gs.

W hen I s ta rte d th e W hit e D og C afé , I d id n o t h ave a g ra nd p la n— no r th e c ap it a l u p fr o nt to c arry o ut s u ch a p la n. I n h in d -sig ht, I ’m g la d I d id n’t,

because I w ould h ave m is se d a ll th e fu n. O f c o urs e th ere c am e a p oin t w hen I p ut p en to p ap er a nd w ro te o ut a b usin ess p la n to fig ure o ut h o w

m uch c ap it a l I n eed ed a nd h o w I p la nned to b e p ro fit a b le a nd p ay it b ack . B ut th at c am e a fte r I h ad th e o pportu nit y to m ove fo rw ard in tu it iv ely

w it h o ut k no w in g fo r s u re w here I w as g o in g. W it h o ut a p la n to fo llo w a nd th e b urd en o f a h uge lo an to p ay o ff, I g re w in a g ra d ual o rg anic w ay

th ro ugh a lo t o f tr ia l a nd e rro r, le arn in g b y d oin g. W it h lit tle th o ught b eyo nd th e n ext d ay, I to ok m any s m all s p onta neo us s te p s th at a d vanced th e

busin ess, g ra d ually fe elin g m y w ay in to s o m eth in g n ew .

B y 1 993, o ur te nth b ir th d ay y ear, w e w ere re co gniz e d b y

Condé N ast T ra vele r

as “ o ne o f th e c o untr y ’s T op 5 0 re sta ura nts w orth tr a velin g to

vis it .” T hat sa m e y ear,

In c.

magazin e c ho se u s a s o ne o f th e b est s m all c o m panie s to w ork fo r in A meric a. S evera l y ears in to th e tw enty -fir s t

centu ry , b etw een th e W hit e D og a nd th e B la ck C at, w e e m plo yed o ver o ne h und re d fu ll a nd p art- tim e p eo ple , c o uld s e at m ore th an tw o h und re d

custo m ers , a nd g ro sse d fiv e m illio n d olla rs a nnually . M ore th an c o uld fit u nd er m y p illo w !

I h ad a cco m plis h ed w hat I h ad s e t o ut to d o— tu rn th e b usin ess I h ad r a is e d fr o m a tin y m uffin s h o p in to o ne o f P hila d elp hia ’s m ost s u ccessfu l—

and m ost in te re stin g— re sta ura nts . I n s o m any w ays, I d id n o t d o th is a lo ne. A nd I c ele b ra te d o ur r e co gnit io n a nd te n y ear s u ccess w it h a no th er

party , o f c o urs e , b y ta k in g o ur m anagem ent te am o f tw elv e o ut to d in ner a t L e B ec F in , th e fa ncie st re sta ura nt in to w n, w here w e to aste d w it h

cham pagne a nd e ven s m oked c ig ars ! T hre e c heers — th re e b ark s— fo r th e W hit e D og C afé ! If G od I n vite d Y ou to a P arty

If G od i n vite d y o u to a p arty a nd s a id ,

“E very o ne i n th e b allr o om to nig ht w ill b e m y s p ecia l g uest.”

How w ould y o u th en tr e a t th em w hen y o u a rriv ed ?

In deed , i n deed !

And H afi z k n ow s th at th ere i s n o o ne i n th is w orld

th at i s n ot s ta ndin g u pon H is je w ele d d ance flo or.

—Hafiz ( c . 1 320–1389)

6

A T ab le f o r S ix B illio n: F in d in g a n

In te rn atio nal P ers p ectiv e

E VEN A S T H E

W HIT E

D OG

was m ak in g it s m ark in th e c ulin ary w orld , a nd w e w ere h avin g o ur p artie s a nd c ele b ra tio ns, I w as e ager to ta k e u p

w here I h ad le ft o ff a t L a T erra sse w hen I w as ju st b egin nin g to e xp lo re th e u niq ue c o m bin atio n o f g o od fo od a nd s o cia l a ctiv is m . I d id n’t w ant m y

care er ju st to b e a b out th ro w in g a g re at p arty e very n ig ht— much a s I e njo yed th at.

O f c o urs e , I w ante d th e W hit e D og to b e a p la ce o f c ele b ra tio n w here o ur c usto m ers c o uld e at, d rin k , a nd b e m erry , a nd n o t b e fo rc ed to fa ce th e

w orld ’s p ro ble m s. B ut I a ls o w ante d to a d dre ss m y c o ncern s a b out a ll th e p ain a nd s u ffe rin g in th e w orld . H ow c o uld I d o th at w hile s h o w in g m y

custo m ers a g o od tim e? T hat w as m y c halle nge.

I h ad le arn ed a t L a T erra sse th at I c o uld n’t a d dre ss m y s o cia l c o ncern s d urin g m y tim e o ff: th ere w as n o ne. I n eed ed to d o it th ro ugh th e b usin ess

it s e lf . B ut h o w c o uld I m ak e it h ap pen? H ow c o uld I r u n m y r e sta ura nt a nd tr y to m ak e th e w orld a b ette r p la ce a t th e s a m e tim e?

Im puls iv ely , p erh ap s, I p ic k ed th e m ost d if fic ult is su e to b egin w it h — fo re ig n p olic y— but th at’s w hat w as m ost o n m y m in d in 1 987 a nd I h ave

alw ays fo llo w ed m y p assio n. F ro m th e tim e I s e rv ed b re ak fa st to th e S alv ad ora n r e fu gees a t L a T erra sse y ears e arlie r, I h ad a g ro w in g in te re st in

th e e vents u nfo ld in g in C entr a l A meric a. I w as d is m ayed b y h o w fe w A meric ans s e em ed to c are a b out th e s u ffe rin g o f th e S alv ad ora n p eo ple

und er a r e p re ssiv e r e gim e th at w as s u p porte d b y o ur o w n c o untr y . N or w as th ere m uch in te re st in th e n eig hb orin g c o untr y , N ic ara gua, w here th e

R eagan a d m in is tr a tio n w as a tte m ptin g to o verth ro w th e d em ocra tic ally e le cte d g o vern m ent. N ic ara gua? E l S alv ad or? M ost p eo ple d id n’t k no w th e

dif fe re nce, a s I b are ly d id . It w as p artic ula rly b oth ers o m e th at m y o w n g enera tio n, th e c hild re n o f th e s ix tie s, w ho p ro te ste d th e V ie tn am W ar,

se em ed to c are n o th in g a b out m is g uid ed U S p olic ie s in C entr a l A meric a. I t m ad e m e p ond er, w as it o nly b ecause w e w ere th e o nes b ein g d ra fte d

and k ille d in V ie tn am th at w e w ork ed to e nd th at w ar, o r d id w e a ctu ally c are a b out p eace a nd ju stic e?

A ro und th is tim e, I h ad a d re am in w hic h I w alk ed in to a r e sta ura nt a nd a sk ed fo r a ta b le , a nd n o t ju st a ta b le fo r tw o o r fo ur p eo ple . “ T ab le fo r

fiv e b illio n, p le ase !” I d ecla re d . T o m e, th e d re am ’s m eanin g w as c le ar. I w as e nvis io nin g a w orld w here e very o ne h ad a p la ce a t th e ta b le —

eco no m ic ally a nd p olit ic ally — a nd e very o ne e very w here h ad e no ugh to e at. B elie vin g, a s I s till d o, th at s u ch a fu tu re is p ossib le , I b egan th in k in g

ab out w ays I c o uld d o m y p art to b rin g it in to b ein g. M eetin g th e S alv ad ora ns in p ers o n h ad s e ale d m y c o m mit m ent to th eir c ause , s o I b egan to

th in k a b out h o w I c o uld c re ate o pportu nit ie s fo r o th ers to e xp erie nce— fir s th and — th e e ffe cts o f A meric an fo re ig n p olic y o n o th er p eo ple , a nd th en

to ta k e re sp onsib ilit y fo r d em and in g c hange if w e fo und o ur c o untr y w as n o t in vit in g a ll p eo ple to s it a t th e ta b le . B ut h o w c o uld I in vo lv e m y

custo m ers ? D id it m ak e s e nse fo r a r e sta ura nt to b e e ngaged in fo re ig n p olic y?

A n id ea b egan to ta k e s h ap e. T here w ere in te rn atio nal s is te r c it ie s p ro gra m s— rig ht? T hen h o w a b out

sis te r r e sta ura nts ?

Why c o uld n’t th e W hit e

D og esta b lis h sis te r re la tio nsh ip s w it h re sta ura nts in o th er co untr ie s w here w e had q uestio nab le fo re ig n p olic y and b uild p eo ple -to -p eo ple

fr ie nd sh ip s, r a is in g c o nsc io usn ess a m ong o ur c usto m ers a b out o ur in te rc o nnectio n w it h o th er p eo ple s.

I a sk ed m y fr ie nd D avid F unk ho use r fr o m th e C entr a l A meric an O rg aniz in g P ro je ct, w ho h ad b ro ught m e to geth er w it h th e S alv ad ora ns, if h e

w ould fin d m e s is te r r e sta ura nts in E l S alv ad or a nd N ic ara gua. W hen h e s u ggeste d th at I c o m e a lo ng o n a s tu d y to ur h e w as le ad in g to N ic ara gua,

I th o ught,

Who m e? I h ave a b usin ess t o r u n! I d on’t g o a nyw here b ut u psta ir s t o m y h ouse a nd d ow nsta ir s t o m y r e sta ura nt. S om etim es I

nev er g o o ff t h e b lo ck f o r w eek s a t a t im e. B esid es, t h ere ’s a w ar g oin g o n d ow n t h ere . A nd I d on’t s p ea k t h e la nguage. I c o uld n’t e v en

understa nd if s o m eo ne y elle d “ D uck !” in S panis h .

B ut I c o uld n’t s to p w ond erin g if it w as tr u e w hat P re sid ent R eagan w as s a yin g— th at th e S and in is ta s ru lin g N ic ara gua w ere c o m munis ts a nd th e C ontr a s ( a s in c o unte rre vo lu tio narie s) w ere th e “ fr e ed om fig hte rs .” I r e ally d id n’t k no w . I fe lt th at I h ad h eard th is s to ry b efo re . A s a te enager, I

w as fo ole d b y m y g o vern m ent in to s u p portin g th e V ie tn am W ar, a nd it to ok m e y ears to fin d th e tr u th . I f w e w ere b ein g fo ole d a gain , I w ante d to

kno w .

S o, d esp it e m y p ro te sts , I s o on fo und m yse lf c heck in g o n m y lif e in su ra nce p olic y a nd w ill, c allin g m y p are nts to s a y g o od-b ye, a nd th en b oard in g

a p la ne fo r N ic ara gua w here I w ould m eet u p w it h D avid . I w as s till a p pre hensiv e, b ut N ic ara gua q uic k ly w ash ed a w ay m y w orrie s. R ath er th an

fe elin g th re ate ned a nd v uln era b le a s a fo re ig ner in a s tr a nge la nd , I h ad a c o m fo rta b le s e nse o f b elo ngin g, a s th o ugh b oth th e h is to ry a nd th e fu tu re

of o ur c o untr ie s w ere in extr ic ab ly lin k ed , a nd th at o ur p re se nce in N ic ara gua a s U S c it iz e ns s e ek in g fr ie nd sh ip a nd u nd ers ta nd in g w as a s im porta nt

to o ur o w n c o untr y a s to th eir s .

D avid h ad m ad e s u re to a rra nge in te rv ie w s th at c o vere d th e p olit ic al s p ectr u m in N ic ara gua, s o w e w ould h ear th e a rg um ents fo r a nd a gain st th e

S and in is ta g o vern m ent. T he C ontr a s u p porte rs w e in te rv ie w ed in M anagua to ld u s th at a ll th e b usin esse s in th e c o untr y w ere n o w o w ned b y th e

sta te in th is c o m munis t c o untr y , a nd I w as b egin nin g to w orry b ecause I d id n o t w ant a s is te r r e sta ura nt th at w as s ta te o w ned . E ventu ally , I c ho se a

sis te r r e sta ura nt c alle d S elv a N egra lo cate d u p in th e m ounta in s in a tr o pic al fo re st n ear th e to w n o f M ata galp a. D esp it e th e C ontr a s’ c la im s, th e

busin esse s w e e nco unte re d w ere , th ank fu lly , p riv ate ly o w ned — in clu d in g o ur s is te r r e sta ura nt a nd th eir fa m ily -o w ned o rg anic c o ffe e p la nta tio n.

T ho ugh th e fo od w e h ad a t S elv a N egra w as v ery s im ple — pla tte rs o f ric e, b eans, fr ie d p la nta in s, a nd a s m all p ortio n o f m eat— th e c o ffe e w as

outs ta nd in g. A t th e e nd o f th e tr ip , th e p ro prie to r o f S elv a N egra g ave m e a n eck la ce w it h a w hit e d og h e h ad c arv ed fr o m w ood. O n th e b ack it

sa id in S panis h : S

IS T ER

R EST A URA NTS F O R

P EA CE A ND

F RIE N DSH IP

. I w as h ap py a b out th e s u ccessfu l c o nnectio n b ut s a d dened b y w hat I h eard

fr o m h im a nd m any o th ers w ho m w e m et o n th e tr ip . T he S and in is ta s w ere n o t p erfe ct, b ut th ey w ere n o t c o m munis t a nd w ere lo oked u p to b y

m ost o f th e p eo ple w e m et fo r th e im pro vem ents th ey w ere m ak in g in e d ucatio n a nd h ealt h c are to b enefit a p opula tio n ig no re d b y th e c o rru p t

S om oza d ic ta to rs h ip , a d ynasty o f a fa th er a nd tw o s o ns th at h ad r u le d N ic ara gua r u th le ssly fr o m 1 937 u ntil th e S and in is ta r e vo lu tio n in 1 979.

T he S and in is ta s h ad s u ccessfu lly o verth ro w n th e U S-b ack ed d ic ta to r, b ut n o w th e R eagan a d m in is tr a tio n w as s u p ply in g a rm s to th e C ontr a s, w ho

w ere re sp onsib le fo r th e d eath s o f m any N ic ara guan c iv ilia ns a nd w ere b ent o n d estr o yin g th e im pro vem ents m ad e u nd er th e S and in is ta s b y

ta rg etin g h ealt h c are c lin ic s a nd k illin g d octo rs a nd te achers . T hese w ere , I le arn ed , th e fo rc es o ur g o vern m ent s u p porte d , if n o t d ir e ctly w it h o ur

ta x d olla rs th en in d ir e ctly b y u sin g th e p ro fit s o f a rm s s a le s to I ra n, a n u nd er- h and ed d eal to c ir c um vent a c o ngre ssio nal b an o n U S a ssis ta nce to

th e C ontr a s fo r th e p urp ose o f o verth ro w in g th e N ic ara guan g o vern m ent. T his s e cre t a rra ngem ent w as ju st b eco m in g k no w n a s th e Ira n-C ontr a

affa ir .

O n th e tr ip h o m e, I w as s it tin g a lo ne in th e M ia m i a ir p ort w ait in g to c hange p la nes, w hen I s u d denly b urs t o ut c ry in g— m uch lik e th e tim e I

unle ash ed a flo od o f te ars a fte r c hasin g a b la ck y o uth b ack in m y F re e P eo ple ’s S to re d ays. W as I sa d a b out w hat w as h ap penin g to th e

N ic ara guans I h ad e nco unte re d ? T he m oth er I m et n ext to a d em olis h ed s c ho olh o use w here h er n in e-y ear- o ld s o n h ad r e cently b een k ille d b y a

U S-su p plie d m is sile ? O r th e o ld er w om an I s a t n ext to o n a b us w ho se g ro w n d aughte r, a s o cia l w ork er, h ad b een k id nap ped b y th e C ontr a s to

be u se d a s a “ m ule ” to c arry th eir s u p plie s a nd c o ok th eir m eals ? T hese w ere te rrib ly s a d s to rie s, b ut th ere w as s o m eth in g m ore . I w as c ry in g a s

th o ugh s o m eo ne c lo se to m e h ad d ie d .

T hen it c am e to m e. I h ad s till b een c arry in g a b it o f th e J o hn P hilip S ousa p atr io tis m I h ad b een ra is e d w it h , h o ld in g o ut h o pe th at th e V ie tn am

W ar h ad b een a n a b erra tio n, a m is ste p in h is to ry n o t to b e r e p eate d . N ow m y id ealis m h ad v anis h ed . I c o uld s e e c le arly th at, r a th er th an s p re ad in g

dem ocra cy, th e U S go vern m ent w as usin g fo rc e, th is tim e th ro ugh su rro gate s, to achie ve d om in atio n o f co untr ie s in th e d evelo pin g w orld .

U lt im ate ly , all th is su ffe rin g w as ab out se curin g a co ntin ued su p ply o f natu ra l re so urc es and cheap la b or in d evelo pin g co untr ie s fo r U S

co rp ora tio ns. I f V ie tn am h ad m ad e m e q uestio n w heth er th e c o untr y I lo ved w as lo st, N ic ara gua h ad c o nvin ced m e th at, s a d ly , it w as.

T ho ugh I h ad r e ad a b out th e h is to ry o f U S in vo lv em ent a nd C IA c o up s in G uate m ala , C hile , I ra n, a nd o th er c o untr ie s a s w ell a s V ie tn am , n o ne o f

th is h ad r e ally c o m e to geth er fo r m e u ntil I e xp erie nced it fir s th and in N ic ara gua. N ow I w ante d to d o s o m eth in g. I fe lt a r e sp onsib ilit y to te ll o th ers

w hat I h ad s e en a nd h eard th ere .

S o b egan th e W hit e D og’s in te rn atio nal s is te r p ro gra m , in w hic h w e w ould b rin g c usto m ers a nd s ta ff to c o untr ie s a t o dds w it h U S g o vern m ent

polic ie s— a p ro gra m I c am e to c all ( a fte r a ju m p in p opula tio n) “ T ab le fo r S ix B illio n, P le ase !” I r e tu rn ed to N ic ara gua tw o m ore tim es, in 1 988

and 1 989, b rin gin g g ro up s o f tw enty so m e W hit e D og c usto m ers o n s tu d y to urs le d b y D avid . O ne w as a n in te rg enera tio nal to ur, w hic h in clu d ed

th en-te n-y ear- o ld G ra ce— who le d m e o n a m id nig ht ad ventu re to fin d a se a tu rtle — and a yo uth gro up fr o m H arle m th at w as m ak in g a

docum enta ry . O ur s is te r re sta ura nt, S elv a N egra , a p pre cia te d o ur v is it s th at b ro ught c usto m ers to e njo y th eir fo od a nd h ear th eir s to rie s a b out

su p portin g th e S and in is ta s d urin g th e r e vo lu tio n a s w ell a s th eir a p pro val o f S and in is ta g o vern m ent p olic ie s th at w ere b uild in g a m ore d em ocra tic

so cie ty in N ic ara gua.

O n r e tu rn in g h o m e fr o m th at fir s t tr ip to N ic ara gua, I w as a p palle d to s e e th e p oor c o vera ge o f th e N ic ara guan c o nflic t in th e U S m ed ia . C it iz e ns

w ere n o t b ein g to ld th e tr u th a b out th e d am age th e C ontr a s w ere d oin g w it h o ur ta x d olla rs . T he m ain str e am p re ss s e em ed in te nt o n g iv in g e q ual

cre d ib ilit y to b oth s id es o f th e a rg um ent— th o se w ho s a w R eagan’s C ontr a s a s “ fr e ed om fig hte rs ” a nd th o se w ho s a w th em a s te rro ris ts . W e w ere

a d em ocra tic s o cie ty . W asn ’t th e m ed ia s u p pose d to in fo rm c it iz e ns s o th at th ey c o uld m ak e w is e p olit ic al d ecis io ns? Y et w hat I s a w w it h m y o w n

eyes a nd h eard w it h m y o w n e ars I c o uld n o t fin d in th e m ain str e am n ew s. It w as th en th at I b egan to u nd ers ta nd h o w im porta nt in d ep end ent

m ed ia w as, a nd h o w it o ffe re d a n a lt e rn ativ e to a m ass m ed ia o verly in flu enced b y c o rp ora te in te re sts . I w as d ete rm in ed to d o w hate ver I c o uld

no t o nly to s u p port in d ep end ent m ed ia a nd in vestig ativ e r e p ortin g, b ut a ls o to b rin g th e s to rie s o f w hat w e h ad le arn ed o n o ur s tu d y to urs to o ur

ow n c o m munit y . I b egan b uild in g a m ailin g lis t ( b efo re w e h ad e -m ail) o f c usto m er a d dre sse s to a nno unce o ur tr ip s a nd o th er e vents . A fte r o ur in te rn atio nal s is te r

re sta ura nt tr ip s, I o rg aniz e d ta lk s a t th e W hit e D og to r e p ort b ack to o ur c usto m ers , u sin g s lid e s h o w s. T his w as th e b egin nin g o f w hat b ecam e a

se rie s c alle d “ T ab le T alk s: S erv in g F ood w it h T ho ught.”

O ne T ab le T alk to pic le d to a no th er, a nd o ne a ctiv it y le d to a no th er, a nd in a lm ost n o tim e I h ad a W hit e D og c ale nd ar fu ll o f w eek ly e vents —

din ner a nd b re ak fa st ta lk s, a s to ry te llin g s e rie s, y o uth a nd s e nio r p ro gra m s, c o m munit y to urs , a nd m ore in te rn atio nal to urs . A lm ost w it h o ut tr y in g, I

dis c o vere d h o w to b rin g to geth er m y b usin ess a nd m y d esir e to m ak e th e w orld a b ette r p la ce. I w ould th in k to m yse lf ,

My c u sto m ers h ave g ot

to h ea r a bout t h is is su e

or

My c u sto m ers j u st h ave t o c o m e h ere a nd s e e t h is

—be it a n in ner c it y g ard en in P hila d elp hia o r th e c o nflic t in th e

hig hla nd s o f M exic o . T ogeth er, I b elie ved , w e c o uld fu rth er th e a w are ness o f o ur in te rc o nnecte d ness a nd o ur se nse o f c o m munit y , lo cal a nd

in te rn atio nal. M ayb e th e tim es w ere w it h m e, b ut m y c usto m ers w ere s o on a s e ager a nd c o m mit te d a s I w as.

O ur T ab le T alk s a nd a ctiv it ie s a d dre sse d lo cal c o ncern s a s w ell a s so cie ta l o nes. F or th e b ro ad p ub lic is su es, I d evelo ped re la tio nsh ip s w it h

sp eak ers a ro und th e c o untr y , a nd o ur to pic s r a nged fr o m c re atin g a s u sta in ab le fu tu re w it h L este r B ro w n, th e w ell- k no w n e nvir o nm enta l a naly st; to

str e ngth enin g in d ep end ent m ed ia w it h A my G oodm an, th e p ro gre ssiv e jo urn alis t fr o m

Dem ocra cy N ow !

; to e nd in g th e w ar o n d ru gs a nd it s

hum an r ig hts v io la tio ns w it h E th an N ad elm ann, e xecutiv e d ir e cto r o f th e D ru g P olic y A llia nce.

T hro ugh m any p ro gra m s o n fo od a nd fa rm in g, w e c ult iv ate d a n a w are ness a m ong o ur c usto m ers a b out th e im porta nce o f lo cal fo od s y ste m s b oth

w it h to urs to th e fa rm s w ho s u p plie d th e W hit e D og a nd th ro ugh T ab le T alk s w it h a uth o rs s u ch a s F ra nces M oore L ap pé ( w ho se fir s t b ook,

Die t

fo r a S m all P la net

, w e c arrie d a t F re e P eo ple ’s S to re in 1 970); M ic hael P olla n, a uth o r o f

Om niv ore ’s D ile m ma

; E ric S chlo sse r, a uth o r o f

F ast F ood N atio n

; a nd D an I m ho ff, a uth o r o f

Food F ig ht: T he C it iz e n ’s G uid e t o a F ood a nd F arm B ill

. A ll o f th ese a uth o rs h elp ed fu el th e

su rg e o f th e lo cal fo od m ovem ent a ro und th e c o untr y . E th ic is t P ete r S in ger, b est k no w n fo r a uth o rin g

Anim al L ib era tio n

in 1 975, s p oke a t th e

W hit e D og s e vera l tim es o ver th e y ears a nd w ro te a b out u s in h is b ook

The E th ic s o f W hat W e E at: W hy O ur F ood C hoic es M atte r

, n o tin g

our c o m mit m ent to s e rv in g o nly h um anely a nd p astu re -ra is e d a nim al p ro ducts .

C ro w ds fo r o ur T ab le T alk s w ould o fte n o verflo w th e W hit e D og’s la rg est s e atin g a re a ( a ro und e ig hty s e ats b y th e e arly 1 990s) a nd fill th e L aw

S cho ol a ud it o riu m a cro ss th e s tr e et, w hic h h eld tw o h und re d p eo ple . B ooks b y o ur s p eak ers w ere fe atu re d a t th e B la ck C at n ext d oor, w it h b ook

sig nin gs fo llo w in g th e ta lk s. S ched ule d fo r tim es w hen b usin ess w as s lo w , T ab le T alk s, w hic h w ere o ffe re d a s a fix ed -p ric e h o t b re ak fa st o r th re e-

co urs e d in ner w it h s p eak er a nd d is c ussio n, in cre ase d o ur s a le s w hile in cre asin g k no w le d ge, c o nsc io usn ess, a nd c it iz e n e ngagem ent.

S om etim es a n ew p ro je ct s p ru ng fr o m th ese ta lk s. D urin g a b re ak fa st- tim e s e rie s o f T ab le T alk s fo cusin g o n in ner- c it y y o uth , a s p eak er p oin te d

out th at th ere w ere p la ygro und s in lo w -in co m e c o m munit ie s w it h b ro ken o r m is sin g s w in gs, s e nd in g a m essa ge to c hild re n th at n o body c are d . S o

w e in it ia te d th e P hila d elp hia S w in g P ro je ct a nd s u cceed ed in r a is in g m oney to b uy a nd in sta ll d oze ns o f n ew s w in gs a ro und th e c it y .

It w as d urin g th e S w in g P ro je ct th at I m et a v o lu nte er, S ue E lle n K le in , w ho m I in vit e d to jo in m e a t th e W hit e D og in a p osit io n I c re ate d fo r h er

as th e D ir e cto r o f C om munit y P ro gra m s. I m ad e r o om fo r S ue E lle n in m y o w n o ffic e, a nd w e b ecam e th e b est o f fr ie nd s o ver th e tw elv e y ears w e

w ork ed s id e b y s id e o n p ro gra m d evelo pm ent. S he b egan o ur p ro gra m “ S to ry te llin g: R eal S to rie s b y R eal P eo ple ,” d urin g w hic h c usto m ers w ere

bro ught to geth er in a m ore p ers o nal w ay th an a t T ab le T alk s th ro ugh s h arin g th eir lif e s to rie s. O fte n th e s p eak ers w ere p eo ple w ho d id n o t h ave

m uch o pportu nit y to b e h eard — a r e cent im mig ra nt fr o m C entr a l A meric a e xp la in ed th e c halle nges o f U S im mig ra tio n la w s, tw o m en in lo ve to ld o f

th eir s tr u ggle to b e m arrie d a nd a d opt a c hild , a n e xo ffe nd er d esc rib ed lif e in p ris o n a nd th e c halle nges o f fin d in g a jo b o nce re le ase d , w hic h

m orp hed in to a s e rie s o f it s o w n c alle d “ T ale s fr o m J a ils .” C rim in al ju stic e w as a ls o a s u b je ct a t T ab le T alk s, b rin gin g to lig ht th e r a cis t n atu re o f th e

pris o n-in d ustr ia l c o m ple x, w hic h p ro fit s fr o m th e g ro w in g n um ber o f in carc era te d p eo ple in th e U nit e d S ta te s, th e la rg est ja ile r in th e w orld .

S oon a fte r a lo cal c hild re n’s r ig hts a ctiv is t, S helly Y ano ff, d eliv ere d a T ab le T alk d esc rib in g M aria n W rig ht E delm an’s p ro gra m o n c hild p overty ,

w e la unched o ur o w n C hild W atc h to urs th at to ok o ur c usto m ers to w it n ess, fir s th and , th e liv es o f in ner- c it y c hild re n. H eld a t le ast o nce a y ear in

partn ers h ip w it h S helly ’s o rg aniz a tio n, P hila d elp hia C it iz e ns fo r C hild re n a nd Y outh , e ach to ur h ad a d if fe re nt fo cus— child h ealt h c are , e d ucatio n,

re cre atio n, o r ju venile ju stic e— sh o w in g b oth th e c o nd it io ns th at n eed ed to b e im pro ved a nd th e s u ccesse s th at n eed ed to b e r e p lic ate d .

O n S atu rd ay m orn in gs, w e a d ded a d if fe re nt k in d o f ta lk p ro gra m — “S atu rd ay R ap ,” ta lk s b y a nd fo r te ens— to g enera te d is c ussio n a nd in sp ir e

stu d ent a ctiv is m a m ong d iv ers e g ro up s o f y o ung p eo ple . T o o ur s u rp ris e , it w as a n im med ia te s u ccess in a w ay w e h ad n’t a ntic ip ate d . T he s p eak er

at th e fir s t p ro gra m w as E ric B ra xto n, a r e cent h ig h s c ho ol g ra d uate w ho w as s ta rtin g w hat h e c alle d th e P hila d elp hia S tu d ent U nio n. I ts m is sio n

w as to b uild th e p ow er o f y o ung p eo ple s o th at th ey c o uld s p eak u p a nd d em and a h ig h-q ualit y e d ucatio n in th e P hila d elp hia p ub lic s c ho ol s y ste m .

W hen E ric a sk ed th e a tte nd in g te enagers if th ey w ere in te re ste d in m eetin g e very S atu rd ay m orn in g to h elp b uild th is n ew o rg aniz a tio n, to m y

su rp ris e m ost o f th em r a is e d th eir h and s.

How m any y o ung p eo ple a re r e a lly w illin g t o g iv e u p t h eir S atu rd ay m orn in gs?

What s u rp ris e d m e

even m ore w as th at th e n ext S atu rd ay a nd fo r m any w eek s fo llo w in g, th ey c o ntin ued to s h o w u p .

To h o use o ur e xp and in g y o uth p ro gra m s, S ue E lle n a nd I fo und ed a n o np ro fit a ffilia te o f th e W hit e D og, w hic h w e n am ed U rb an R etr ie vers — th is

becam e th e in stit u tio nal h o m e fo r th e P hila d elp hia S tu d ent U nio n. T he o rg aniz a tio n b ecam e so su ccessfu l th at w e so on tu rn ed o ur n o np ro fit

co rp ora tio n o ver to th em . T oday th e P hila d elp hia S tu d ent U nio n is still g o in g str o ng, o ffe rin g le ad ers h ip tr a in in g to y o ung p eo ple so th ey c an

ad dre ss th e p ro ble m s in th eir c o m munit ie s, s p eak w it h p olic y m ak ers in P hila d elp hia , a nd g iv e s tu d ents a v o ic e in th e s ta te c ap it a l— where th ey

lo bby fo r p ub lic s c ho ol fu nd in g.

W e c are d a b out th e e ld erly a ls o . M y e ffo rts to fin d a d eq uate h o usin g fo r G ertr u d e h ad b een a n e ye-o pener to th e is su es o f a gin g in A meric a, a

pro ble m th at s e em ed o fte n o verlo oked . I w as in sp ir e d to fe atu re s e nio rs in o ur s to ry te llin g s e rie s a nd to in clu d e a p ro je ct to h elp e ld erly s h ut- in s in

our m onth ly c o m munit y s e rv ic e d ay p ro gra m . A nd I r e aliz e d th at it w ork ed b oth w ays w hen I h eard th e s to ry o f a c o lle ge s tu d ent w ho e njo yed th is

co m munit y s e rv ic e p ro gra m b ecause s h e m is se d h er g ra nd pare nts b ack h o m e in C hin a. W e la unched a “ T ak e a S enio r to L unch” p ro m otio n th at

halv ed a c usto m er’s b ill fo r S atu rd ay lu nch if th ey w ere a cco m panie d b y a s e nio r. If c usto m ers d id n o t h ave a n e ld erly fr ie nd to b rin g a lo ng, w e

su ggeste d th ey c o nta ct L it tle B ro th ers — F rie nd s o f th e E ld erly , a se rv ic e o rg aniz a tio n th at w ould m atc h th em w it h a se nio r w ho w ante d th e opportu nit y to g et o ut m ore o fte n, a s G ertr u d e s o lo ved to d o.

T hat fir s t N ic ara guan tr ip h ad u nle ash ed a to rre nt o f a ctiv is m , b ut it a ls o h ad a no th er e ffe ct o n m e th at I n ever a ntic ip ate d : it m ad e m e m ore a w are

th at th ere w ere p arts o f P hila d elp hia w here p eo ple d id n o t s p eak E nglis h . B ein g in P hila d elp hia ’s b arrio w as a lm ost lik e v is it in g a no th er c o untr y .

T here w ere p le nty o f c ult u ra l m is u nd ers ta nd in gs a nd th e n eed fo r c o m munit y b uild in g rig ht h ere in P hila d elp hia , a nd s o in 1 990 th e P hila d elp hia

S is te r R esta ura nt P ro gra m w as b orn , th ro ugh w hic h th e W hit e D og d evelo ped s is te r r e la tio nsh ip s w it h r e sta ura nts in g hetto iz e d n eig hb orh o ods o f

P hila d elp hia a nd n earb y C am den. A fte r d in in g a t m in o rit y -o w ned re sta ura nts , g ro up s o f W hit e D og c usto m ers a tte nd ed c ult u ra l e vents in th e

neig hb orh o od, s u ch a s a p la y a t F re ed om T heatr e , o ne o f A meric a’s o ld est A fr ic an A meric an th eatr e s.

Ju st a fte r w e a nno unced o ur fir s t P hila d elp hia S is te r R esta ura nt e vent— an e venin g in th e b arrio — a fr o nt- p age a rtic le in th e

Phila delp hia In quir e r

calle d a tte ntio n to th e p ro ble m o f d ru g tr a ffic k in g in w hat th ey c alle d “ th e B ad la nd s.” A m ap s h o w in g th e h ig h-tr a ffic k in g a re as h ad a b la ck d ot

rig ht o n th e c o rn er w here o ur s is te r r e sta ura nt w as lo cate d . W ould a ny o f o ur c usto m ers d are c o m e w it h m e n o w ? W e q uic k ly o rg aniz e d a T ab le

Talk c alle d “ T he G ood P eo ple o f th e B ad la nd s,” d em onstr a tin g a ll th e p osit iv e th in gs th at w ere h ap penin g in th e n eig hb orh o od. O ur e venin g in th e

B ad la nd s w as s o ld o ut! In fa ct, w e ra n tw o c o nse cutiv e g ro up s th at e venin g s o th at e very o ne h ad a c hance to s e e th e a rt e xhib it a t th e P uerto

R ic an c ult u ra l c ente r, h ave d in ner, a nd g o s a ls a d ancin g. W hit e D og c usto m ers fr o m th e s u b urb s a nd o th er p arts o f th e c it y fo und th at e njo yin g

div ers e c ult u ra l lif e r ig ht in o ur o w n c it y w as o ne g o od w ay to m ak e lif e in te re stin g— and w as a lo t e asie r th an b ein g a to uris t in a fa ra w ay c o untr y .

B ut, a s u su al, I w ante d to d o m ore th an e at, d rin k , a nd h ave fu n. S o I b egan r u nnin g c o m munit y to urs in to n eig hb orh o ods to m eet lo cal a ctiv is ts ,

co m bin in g m eals w it h v is it s to in ner- c it y c o m munit y g ard ens, a ffo rd ab le h o usin g s it e s, p ro je cts a t p ris o ns, a nd e xam ple s o f s u sta in ab le liv in g in

gre en b uild in g a nd r e new ab le e nerg y.

O ur fir s t a nd m ost p opula r c o m munit y to ur w as in sp ir e d w hen I w as d riv in g th ro ugh a n u nfa m ilia r n eig hb orh o od in 1 990 a nd c am e u p on a g ig antic

m ura l p ic tu rin g a fa m ily te nd in g a g ard en. T he m ura l o ccup ie d a n e ntir e s id e o f a th re e-sto ry h o use in a n o th erw is e b le ak n eig hb orh o od. I h eard

m yse lf th in k in g m y n o w c o m mon r e fr a in ,

My c u sto m ers h ave g ot t o s e e t h is !

And o ur m ura l to ur w as s o on u nd erw ay.

B egin nin g w it h m uffin s a nd c o ffe e a t th e c afé , w e to ok o ur c usto m ers o n a tw o-h o ur to ur b y m oto riz e d tr o lle y to s e e th e w ork o f th e P hila d elp hia

M ura l A rts P ro gra m — mura ls d one b y lo cal a rtis ts in c o opera tio n w it h c o m munit y g ro up s th at, u nd er th e sp ir it e d le ad ers h ip o f d ir e cto r Ja ne

G old en, e ventu ally m ad e P hila d elp hia th e w all m ura l c ap it a l o f th e w orld . O ur a nnual to urs o f c o m munit y w all m ura ls , b oth b y tr o lle y a nd b ic ycle ,

so ld o ut e very y ear fo r tw enty y ears .

T hat s a m e y ear, w e b egan a nnual to urs o f P hila d elp hia ’s p riz e -w in nin g c o m munit y g ard ens. C usto m ers fr o m th e s u b urb s w ould c o m pare g ard enin g

te chniq ues w it h in ner- c it y g ard eners a nd th en a ll w ould e njo y lu nch to geth er b ack a t th e W hit e D og.

W e a ls o b egan o ur a nnual “ N ativ e A meric an T hank sg iv in g D in ner” — th at, to o, h ad a tw enty -y ear r u n. T he d in ner r e co gniz e d a nd g ave th ank s fo r

th e m any fo ods in o ur d ie t th at w ere o rig in ally c ult iv ate d b y th e fir s t p eo ple o f th e A meric as. E ach y ear w e in vit e d a N ativ e A meric an le ad er to

sp eak a b out is su es o f c o ncern to N ativ e A meric an p eo ple to day a nd s h are in d ig eno us w is d om fr o m th eir o w n c ult u re , s o m eth in g I fe el is v ery

im porta nt in le arn in g to liv e s u sta in ab ly in to day’s w orld . A mong th e m ost m em ora b le g uests w as J o hn M ohaw k, w ho b ro ught s o m e c o rn fo r u s to

tr y fr o m h is I ro quo is W hit e C orn P ro je ct ( th en in V ic to r, N ew Y ork ) a nd s p oke e lo quently a b out th e in d ig eno us p eo ple s’ r e la tio nsh ip w it h n atu re .

E ach y ear w e a lw ays in vit e d e ld ers a nd le ad ers fr o m th e L enap e tr ib e, th e o rig in al in hab it a nts o f o ur o w n re gio n, w ho g ave a b le ssin g a nd

w elc o m ed th e g uest s p eak er fr o m th e v is it in g tr ib e.

O ur c ale nd ar k ep t g ro w in g. S oon it w as fu ll o f o ne o r m ore s p ecia l e vents a w eek — bik in g a d ventu re s, R olle rb la d ers O ver F orty ( I th o ught th at

w as o ld a t th e tim e!), c o m munit y s e rv ic e d ays, A fr ic an A meric an H erit a ge T our, o ur a nnual F re ed om S ed er, a nd m ore . A ll o f o ur to urs a nd ta lk s

in vo lv ed a m eal a t th e W hit e D og, a nd w e w elc o m ed p eo ple w ho c am e a lo ne a nd s a t th em w it h o th ers a t ta b le s th at m ostly h eld fo ur to e ig ht

custo m ers . B rin gin g p eo ple to geth er w ho s h are a c o ncern fo r th e s a m e is su es a nd a d esir e to le arn , a s w ell a s s h arin g a d elic io us m eal to geth er,

cre ate d a s p ecia l fe el o f c o m munit y a t th ese g ath erin gs a nd in it ia te d m any a n ew fr ie nd sh ip .

T his w as e sp ecia lly tr u e o n o ur in te rn atio nal s is te r r e sta ura nt tr ip s w hen g ro up s o f tw enty W hit e D og c usto m ers w ould b ond d urin g a o ne-to tw o-

w eek s tu d y to ur. T hese b ecam e s o p opula r th at w e d id o ne o r m ore tr ip s e very y ear. A fte r s h arin g m eals w it h th e S and in is ta s, th e Z ap atis ta s, th e

C ub ans, fo rm er V ie t C ong, a nd th e S ovie ts , w e n ic k nam ed o ur in te rn atio nal p ro gra m “ E atin g w it h th e E nem y,” a nd r e aliz e d c le arly th at w e a chie ve

w orld p eace th ro ugh d ia lo gue a nd u nd ers ta nd in g r a th er th an b y m ilit a ry a nd e co no m ic d om in atio n.

To k eep o ur c usto m ers p oste d o n w hat w as h ap penin g a t th e r e sta ura nt, w e b egan p ub lis h in g a q uarte rly n ew sle tte r,

Tale s f ro m t h e W hit e D og

C afé

, a m uch lo nger a nd m ore e la b ora te v ers io n o f th e o ne I h ad b egun p ub lis h in g a t L a T erra sse . E ventu ally m ore th an tw enty th o usa nd

custo m ers s ig ned u p to r e ceiv e it . I n th e d ays b efo re e -m ail, it w as e xp ensiv e to p rin t a nd m ail s o m any, b ut I lo oked fo rw ard to th e o pportu nit y to

w rit e to m y c usto m ers , o fte n a ctin g a s a s o rt o f c it iz e n jo urn alis t in te llin g th e ta le s o f o ur tr ip s to c o untr ie s w it h c ult u re s a nd s y ste m s s o d if fe re nt

fr o m o ur o w n o r p ub lis h in g p ie ces o n th e is su es w e a d dre sse d in o ur T ab le T alk s. I n a n e ssa y a b out o ur s tu d y to ur to th e N eth erla nd s c alle d

Pass

th e M arij u ana, P le a se !

I to ld th e s to ry o f h o w o ur g ro up o f c usto m ers le arn ed a b out th e b enefit s o f D utc h d ru g p olic y c o m pare d to th e fa ile d U S

w ar o n d ru gs a nd w ere in tr ig ued w it h o ur D utc h s is te r r e sta ura nt w here m arij u ana w as s e rv ed a lo ng w it h s a la d s a nd s a nd w ic hes!

P eo ple w ho c am e to th e W hit e D og w ere n o t o nly h ungry fo r d elic io us, e th ic ally s o urc ed fo od, th ey w ere a ls o h ungry fo r c o m munit y , fo r b ein g

part o f s o m eth in g b ig ger th an th em se lv es, a nd le arn in g. “ F ood, fu n, a nd s o cia l a ctiv is m ” b ecam e th e W hit e D og m otto . A nd w e w ere n o t a lw ays

pre achin g to th e c ho ir . T ho ugh y o u c o uld e asily d in e a t th e W hit e D og w it h o ut a tte nd in g a n e vent o r g ettin g in vo lv ed w it h th e m any is su es w e

ad dre sse d , th e fa ct th at w e w ere a s u ccessfu l a nd p opula r b usin ess a nd s e rv ed d elic io us fo od c ause d u nlik ely p eo ple to g iv e o ur e d ucatio nal

pro gra m s a tr y . T hese a re s o m e o f th e w ays I w as a b le to lu re in no cent c usto m ers in to s o cia l a ctiv is m !

B ut c usto m ers a ls o in tr o duced m e to n ew id eas a nd le d m e to in te re stin g p la ces. I t w as a c usto m er o n o ne o f th e N ic ara guan tr ip s, B ill R ie se r, w ho

su ggeste d th at w e fin d o ur se co nd sis te r re sta ura nt in V ie tn am , a c o untr y su ffe rin g fr o m a n e co no m ic w ar w it h th e U nit e d S ta te s th ro ugh a n

em barg o s till in e ffe ct fif te en y ears a fte r th e e nd o f th e V ie tn am W ar— or a s th e V ie tn am ese c all it , th e A meric an W ar.

S o I s e t o ut to fin d a s is te r re sta ura nt th ere , jo in in g a to ur le d b y D on L uce, w ho b ecam e a no th er h ero to m e. F ir s t tr a velin g to V ie tn am a s a n

agric ult u re s p ecia lis t in tr o ducin g s w eet p ota to es to th e V ie tn am ese d ie t, D on w as s w ep t in to th e w ar in th e 1 960s b y h is s tu d ents w ho s u p porte d

th e V ie t C ong a gain st th e A meric ans. It w as D on w ho le d jo urn alis ts a nd a U S c o ngre ssm an to e xp ose th e n o to rio us “ tig er c ages” in a S outh

V ie tn am ese p ris o n, r e su lt in g in p ho to gra p hs in

Lif e

magazin e th at h elp ed tu rn p ub lic o pin io n a gain st th e w ar.

D urin g th e th re e tr ip s I to ok to V ie tn am g uid ed b y D on, I w as fa sc in ate d to s e e h o w th e V ie tn am ese w ere e xp erim entin g w it h c o m bin in g th e b est

of c ap it a lis m w it h th e b est o f s o cia lis m . A t o ne p oin t d urin g th e fir s t tr ip , a V ie tn am ese g o vern m ent r e p re se nta tiv e d esc rib ed th e r e cent o penin g o f

th e e co no m y to a llo w fr e e e nte rp ris e . “ W e a re n o t c o m munis t o r s o cia lis t,” h e e xp la in ed , “ w e a re a c o untr y tr y in g to fin d it s id entit y . W e k new

cap it a lis m o nly d urin g th e o ppre ssio n o f c o lo nia lis m , b ut o n th e o th er h and , w e d o n o t w ant d ep end ency o n th e s ta te . B y o penin g th e e co no m y, w e

have r e le ase d th e c re ativ e e nerg y o f th e p eo ple .”

W hen I r e tu rn ed th e fo llo w in g y ear w it h a g ro up o f W hit e D og c usto m ers , I c o uld s e e th e h uge d if fe re nce m ad e in o nly o ne y ear b y th e r e le ase o f

“c re ativ e e nerg y.” I c o uld fe el th e e ntr e p re neuria l v it a lit y in th e a ir , a nd n ew b usin esse s w ere s p rin gin g u p e very w here . T he fir s t flo ors o f th e h o use s

alo ng th e s tr e ets in H ano i h ad tr a nsfo rm ed in to s to re s a nd c afé s w it h lig hts s tr u ng a lo ng th e s id ew alk s w here o nly th e y ear b efo re it h ad b een d ark .

N ot a ll th e c hanges w ere g o od. D urin g th e w ar H ano i h ad m ain ta in ed it s tr a d it io nal c ult u re w hile S aig o n h ad b een in te rn atio naliz e d b y th e

A meric ans. N ow I c o uld s e e th at, ju st a s th e o ld g uard h ad fe are d , th e s a m e u nw ante d e le m ents th at p la gued S aig o n w ere c o m in g to H ano i—

m ate ria lis m , c la ssis m , p ollu tio n, p ro stit u tio n, A ID S, a lc o ho lis m , a nd c rim e. T he o ld H ano i, w it h it s d ig nif ie d , q uie t s tr e ets a nd d em ure w om en in

tr a d it io nal d re ss, w as d is a p pearin g. J u st a y ear a go , th e s ix -la ne-w id e b oule vard s h ad b een fille d o nly w it h th o usa nd s o f b ic ycle s, s ile ntly s p in nin g

by, m ir a culo usly w eavin g in a nd o ut o f c ro w ded in te rs e ctio ns w it h n o n eed fo r s to p s ig ns o r lig hts . O n m y r e tu rn in 1 991, I w as s h o ck ed b y th e

dra m atic c hange. T he q uie tly s tr e am in g s tr e ets h ad b een in vad ed b y a s ta m ped e o f r o arin g m oto rc ycle s a nd h o nk in g, s m okin g c ars s p ew in g c lo ud s

of e xhaust.

R etu rn in g to V ie tn am fo ur y ears la te r in 1 995 w it h a no th er g ro up o f c usto m ers a nd e m plo yees, I fo und th at e ven m ore e co no m ic a nd c ult u ra l

change h ad c o m e to th is s m all c o untr y . B ut th is tim e I w as n o t a lt o geth er s u rp ris e d , b ecause in th e p re vio us y ear P re sid ent C lin to n h ad lif te d th e

em barg o th at h ad b een c rip plin g th e V ie tn am ese e co no m y. W hile liv in g in th e E sk im o v illa ge, I h ad s e en h o w e xp osu re to g lo baliz a tio n c o uld p ull

peo ple a w ay fr o m th eir u niq ue lo cal c ult u re s a nd e co no m ie s a nd th ru st th em h elt e r- sk elt e r in to m odern lif e . S in ce th o se d ays in th e v illa ge, I h ad

been p ond erin g if th ere c o uld b e a w ay to p re se rv e c ult u re a nd p ro te ct fr a gile e co sy ste m s, w hile s till in co rp ora tin g m odern c o nvenie nces. I t w as

partly th is q uestio n th at e nco ura ged m e to s e t o ut fo r a no th er d estin atio n s u ffe rin g fr o m a U S e m barg o , n o t o nly to w it n ess th e h arm d one, b ut a ls o

to e xp erie nce a s o cie ty th at w as la rg ely is o la te d fr o m A meric an c ult u re : C ub a.

O n o ur fir s t W hit e D og sis te r re sta ura nt tr ip to C ub a, w e h ad th e g o od fo rtu ne to h ave a s o ur g uid e M ed ea B enja m in , c o fo und er o f G lo bal

E xchange, a h um an-rig hts o rg aniz a tio n b ase d in S an F ra ncis c o th at c o nd ucts “ re alit y to urs ” a ro und th e w orld . H avin g s p ent tim e liv in g in C ub a,

M ed ea h ad e xp ertis e a nd m any c o nta cts th at p ro vid ed o ur g ro up a n in sid er’s v ie w o f C ub an s o cie ty .

A lt h o ugh M ed ea w as ta k en a b ack w hen c hef K evin a nd I b eat h er a nd h er C ub an d ance p artn er in a c o nte st fo r b ein g th e s e xie st d ance c o up le a t

a H avana n ig htc lu b ( it w as m uch m ore c o m ic th an s e xy), w e b ecam e fa st fr ie nd s a nd e njo yed m any fu tu re tim es to geth er a s fe llo w a ctiv is ts ( a s w ell

as d ancers ). I n s u p port o f C ode P in k , a w om en’s p eace g ro up M ed ea c o fo und ed w it h J o die E vans, I b ro ught s e vera l b uslo ad s o f p eace a ctiv is ts

dre sse d in p in k fr o m th e W hit e D og to jo in M ed ea and Jo die in anti- w ar d em onstr a tio ns in W ash in gto n D C. W hen a yo ung A meric an

peacem ak er, R achel C orrie , w as k ille d in P ale stin e b y a n Is ra eli b ulld oze r in 2 003, M ed ea w as th e fir s t p ers o n I th o ught to c all. W e q uic k ly

org aniz e d a jo in t W hit e D og/C ode P in k g ro up tr ip to th e O ccup ie d T errit o rie s to r e co gniz e th e lif e a nd w ork o f th e s la in a ctiv is t a nd g ain fir s th and

kno w le d ge o f th e is su es d iv id in g P ale stin ia ns a nd I s ra elis , w hile I lo oked fo r p ossib le s is te r r e sta ura nts in b oth I s ra el a nd P ale stin e.

W hen o ur fir s t g ro up o f W hit e D og c usto m ers a rriv ed w it h M ed ea in C ub a in 1 993, th e e m barg o h ad b een in fo rc e fo r m ore th an th ir ty y ears a nd

had c le arly im poveris h ed th e is la nd . B ut it w as h ard to d is tin guis h h o w m uch o f C ub a’s flo und erin g e co no m y w as d ue to th e e m barg o a nd h o w

m uch to th e e co no m ic p olic ie s o f th e C astr o re gim e. I fo und it fa sc in atin g h o w th e C ub ans, lik e th e V ie tn am ese , w ere e xp erim entin g w it h a n ew

sy ste m th at h o ped to b le nd th e b est o f s o cia lis m a nd c ap it a lis m . I w as im pre sse d w it h th eir h ealt h care a nd e d ucatio n s y ste m s, th eir c are fo r th e

yo ung a nd o ld , th eir e xub era nt a rt a nd m usic , a nd th eir r e no w ned c o m munit y -g ard ens. I r e tu rn ed to C ub a th re e m ore tim es, d ra w n to th e is la nd ,

lik e m any o th er v is it o rs fr o m a ro und th e w orld , to w it n ess a c o untr y th at h as a chie ved fo od s o vere ig nty — th e a b ilit y to fe ed it s e lf a nd th e r ig ht o f

peo ple e very w here to c re ate a h ealt h y, fa ir , a nd c ult u ra lly a p pro pria te lo cal fo od s y ste m . A fte r th e c o lla p se o f th eir m ajo r tr a d in g p artn er, th e S ovie t U nio n, a nd th e tig hte nin g o f th e U S e m barg o , C ub a h ad v ery lit tle a ccess to o il a nd

fo ssil- fu el- b ase d fe rtiliz e rs a nd p estic id es, a s w ell a s im porte d fo od a nd m ed ic in e, a nd e nd ure d a h arro w in g tim e o f w id esp re ad h unger. O ut o f

necessit y C ub a d ir e cte d th e e nerg y o f it s p eo ple to w ard s u sta in ab le a gric ult u re , b ase d o n o rg anic s r a th er th an fo ssil- fu el p ro ducts . T urn in g s w ord s

in to p lo w sh are s, m any s o ld ie rs b egan n ew c are ers a s fa rm ers . O ur g ro up v is it e d h ig h s c ho ols w here s tu d ents w ere ta ught s k ills in s e lf - re lia nce,

in clu d in g g ro w in g a nd c o okin g fo od, g ro w in g a nd u sin g m ed ic in al h erb s, s e w in g c lo th es, m ak in g s h o es, a nd e ven g ro w in g g ra p es to m ak e w in e fo r

cele b ra tin g th eir g ra d uatio n.

P la ntin g o rg anic g ard ens m ost e very p la ce im agin ab le in a nd a ro und H avana w as p art o f th e n atio n’s fo od-so vere ig nty s tr a te gy— a re m ark ab le

achie vem ent a nd a m odel fo r o th er c o untr ie s in th ese tim es o f c lim ate c hange a nd th e n eed to e nd d ep end ency o n fo ssil fu els a nd lo ng-d is ta nce

sh ip pin g. W e r a n th re e s is te r r e sta ura nt to urs to s tu d y th e c o m munit y g ard ens. O n o ne tr ip , M ark D orn str e ic h, a fa rm er s u p ply in g th e W hit e D og,

m arv ele d a t th e a d vanced o rg anic te chniq ues u se d b y C ub an fa rm ers .

O ur to urs , w hic h in clu d ed c usto m ers a nd W hit e D og sta ff fr o m o ur k it c hen, b ar, d in in g ro om , a nd o ffic e, a ls o e xam in ed th e liv es o f C ub an

child re n. W e o bse rv ed th e s ta rk d if fe re nce b etw een y o ung A meric ans, w ho liv ed in a w orld o f a d vertis e m ents , a nd y o ung C ub ans, w ho liv ed in a

natio n w here th e g o vern m ent p ro hib it s c o m merc ia l a d vertis in g o n b illb oard s, te le vis io n, r a d io , a nd n ew sp ap ers . O ur g ro up fo und th e y o ung p eo ple

w e m et, b oth in fo rm ally a nd in a rra nged v is it s , to h ave g re ate r s e lf - c o nfid ence a nd a fr e sh ness a nd a uth entic it y w e o fte n fo und la ck in g a m ong m any

A meric an y o ung p eo ple . Y oung C ub ans a ls o w ere n’t o verly c o ncern ed w it h a p peara nce o r se lf - c o nsc io us a b out th eir b odie s. C ould th at b e

because o ur c hild re n a nd y o uth a re c o ntin ually b om bard ed w it h im ages o f m odels a nd s ta rs , a nd a d vertis in g th at m ak es th em fe el th ey h ave to b e

beautif u l to b e lo ved ?

T hese w ere th e p osit iv e e ffe cts o f a g o vern m ent th at d id n o t w ant to o pen th e d oors to a d vertis in g th at g la m oriz e s w aste fu l c o nsu m eris m a nd s e lf -

im age b ase d o n a p peara nce a nd w ealt h . T hat’s n o t to s a y C ub a is a n id yllic c o untr y . I d id n o t s u p port th e la ck o f fr e e e nte rp ris e a nd th e h eavy

hand o f th e c entr a l g o vern m ent (th at I re cently h eard is s tif lin g th e g ro w th o f th e fo od s y ste m th ey s o c are fu lly b uilt , c ausin g th e n eed fo r s o m e

im porte d fo od). O n th e o th er h and , I d id u nd ers ta nd w hy th e g o vern m ent is p ro ceed in g w it h g re at c autio n in o penin g th eir e co no m y, s o a s n o t to

dam age th eir r e m ark ab le c ult u re a nd it s r e fr e sh in g a ll- fo r- o ne a nd o ne-fo r- a ll s o cie ty .

I fo und it c urio us th at th e U nit e d S ta te s h as h ad e co no m ic e m barg o s to c rip ple th e e co no m ie s o f tw o c o untr ie s th at a re e xp erim entin g w it h n ew

eco no m ic s y ste m s, tr y in g to fin d th e b le nd o f s o cia lis m a nd c ap it a lis m th at c o uld c re ate a s u sta in ab le w ay fo rw ard . T here is s o m uch th e U nit e d

S ta te s c o uld le arn fr o m C ub a a nd V ie tn am , a nd th ey fr o m u s. W hat w as th e U nit e d S ta te s r e ally a fr a id o f ? W as th e id ea o f s u ccessfu l e co no m ic

sy ste m s n o t d om in ate d b y la rg e U S c o rp ora tio ns v ie w ed a s a th re at, r a th er th an a w ay fo r u s to le arn a nd e vo lv e to a b ette r s y ste m o urs e lv es?

T ho ugh m ost p eo ple th in k o f c iv il r ig hts a nd p eace w hen th ey th in k o f M artin L uth er K in g, J r., th e q uo te fr o m m y h ero th at I h ang in m y o ffic e is

ab out o ur e co no m ic s y ste m :

Tru th is fo und n eit h er in tr a d it io nal c ap it a lis m n o r in c la ssic al c o m munis m . E ach re p re se nts a p artia l tr u th . C ap it a lis m fa ils to s e e th e

tr u th in c o lle ctiv is m . C om munis m fa ils to s e e th e tr u th in in d iv id ualis m . C ap it a lis m fa ils to r e aliz e th at lif e is s o cia l. C om munis m fa ils to

re aliz e th at lif e is p ers o nal. T he g o od a nd ju st s o cie ty is n eit h er th e th esis o f c ap it a lis m n o r th e a ntit h esis o f c o m munis m , b ut a s o cia lly

co nsc io us d em ocra cy, w hic h r e co ncile s th e tr u th s o f in d iv id ualis m a nd c o lle ctiv is m .

O f a ll th e c o untr ie s w here I c o uld e at w it h o ur e nem ie s, I h ad n o in te re st in v is it in g th e e p ic ente r o f c o m munis m — th e S ovie t U nio n. T he S ovie ts

se em ed a s s tu b born a nd e ntr e nched in c o m munis m a s w e d id in c ap it a lis m . T hat is , u ntil P re sid ent M ik hail G orb achev in it ia te d h is re fo rm s w it h

pere str o ik a a nd a nno unced in 1 987 th at re sta ura nts w ould b e th e fir s t p riv ate ly o w ned b usin esse s. I ju st h ad to g o . B y h avin g a S ovie t s is te r

re sta ura nt, w e w ould h ave a fr o nt- ro w s e at d urin g th is h is to ric tim e o f c hange, a nd I w elc o m ed th e c hance to a ssis t in th e fle d glin g fr e e-e nte rp ris e

m ovem ent.

A P hila d elp hia fr ie nd , K ris ta B ard , w as o rg aniz in g th e fir s t c ulin ary to ur o f th e S ovie t U nio n in 1 988, th e p erfe ct o pportu nit y to id entif y a r e sta ura nt

to b e a s is te r to th e W hit e D og. I k new a lm ost n o th in g a b out th e S ovie t U nio n a nd h ad th e fa ls e id ea th at th e S ovie t p eo ple o ppose d o ur c o nsu m er

so cie ty a nd liv ed fr u gal liv es v o lu nta rily a s g o od c o m munis ts . I w as s h o ck ed w hen w e a rriv ed in R ussia a nd I le arn ed th at th e p eo ple th ere w ante d

m ate ria l g o odie s a s m uch a s A meric ans d id , b ut s im ply c o uld n’t a ffo rd th em . I n o ne h o m e I s a w a c hin a c up board d is p la yin g th e w ra p pers fr o m

perfu m e b ottle s a nd o th er c o nsu m er g o ods a nd le arn ed it w as a c o m mon p ra ctic e— a w ay o f r e verin g m ate ria l th in gs. H ere I th o ught I w as v is it in g

a s o cie ty th at h ad r is e n a b ove c o nsu m eris m !

O ur d ele gatio n o f a b out tw enty w as c o m pris e d o f n atio nal fo od a nd w in e w rit e rs a nd s e vera l r e sta ura te urs — in clu d in g, to m y d elig ht, m y c ulin ary

hero in e A lic e W ate rs . T he re d c arp et w as ro lle d o ut fo r o ur g ro up a s w e v is it e d th e b est s ta te o w ned re sta ura nts a s w ell a s th e n ew p riv ate ly

ow ned o nes th at w ere m ore to o ur lik in g. I r e m em ber th e s u rp ris e o f o ur S ovie t h o sts w hen th ey a sk ed A lic e w hat s h e lik ed b est a fte r a h uge m eal

w it h a ll th e tr im min gs a t a fa ncy s ta te ru n re sta ura nt. U nd er th e c ry sta l c hand elie rs a nd n ext to th e ic e c arv in g th at s a t a m id a la vis h d is p la y o f

delic acie s, A lic e, p etit e in s ta tu re a nd w it h a g ir lis h d em ure ness th at c am oufla ged a p ow erh o use o f e nerg y a nd p assio n, h eld u p a p la in p ale c o okie

and g ave it h er h ig hest p ra is e fo r it s fla vo r, c o ars e te xtu re , a nd s im plic it y . T ho ugh th e R ussia n m eal w as d elic io us, it w as n o t th e e xtr a vagancie s th at

A lic e w ante d to e nco ura ge, b ut s im ple p re p ara tio ns w it h n atu ra l in gre d ie nts .

W hile o bse rv in g th e S ovie t w orld , it o ccurre d to m e th at th e b ette r- ru n s ta te o w ned r e sta ura nts in th e U SSR w ere q uit e s im ila r to th e r e sta ura nts in

co rp ora te h o te l c hain s in th e U nit e d S ta te s, a nd th eir m assiv e s ta te r u n fa rm s n o t u nlik e o ur in d ustr ia l m ega-m ono -c ro p fa rm s. T hro ugh th e le ns o f

fo od— fr o m fa rm in g to co okin g— I b egan to se e th at co m munis m and co rp ora te cap it a lis m w ere tw o sid es o f th e sa m e co in , w it h p ow er

co ncentr a te d in th e s ta te o n o ne s id e a nd in la rg e c o rp ora tio ns o n th e o th er— wit h th e tr e at o f to ta lit a ria nis m o n b oth s id es o f th e c o in . T he c ho ic e fo r a b ette r s o cie ty w as n o t b etw een a lif e c o ntr o lle d b y b ig g o vern m ent o r b ig c o rp ora tio ns, a s m any a ro und th e w orld a nd a t h o m e s e em ed to

arg ue. R ath er, w e c o uld b uild a n ew e co no m y b ase d o n s m alln ess, m ad e u p o f m any u niq ue s m all in d ep end ent b usin esse s a nd d ecentr a liz e d s m all

div ers e fa rm s. T his is w here d em ocra cy b egin s! A nd it is a ls o th e m ost d elic io us w ay to o rg aniz e a n e co no m ic s y ste m .

A fte r e atin g in re sta ura nts in a n um ber o f th e S ovie t re p ub lic s, I e nd ed u p c ho osin g a re sta ura nt c alle d S tik la i (T he G la ssb lo w er) in V iln iu s,

L it h uania , to b e o ur S ovie t s is te r re sta ura nt. It h ad g re at fo od a nd e ngagin g o w ners — and a ls o w as th e fir s t p riv ate b usin ess in th e re p ub lic o f

L it h uania a nd th e s e co nd in th e w ho le U SSR .

In 1 989, th e th re e o w ners o f S tik la i— Rom as Z ak are vic iu s, a nd A na a nd A le k sa nd ra s C iu p ij — and fo ur o f th eir s ta ff tr a vele d to P hila d elp hia , fo r

m ost o f th em th e fir s t tr ip o ut o f th e U SSR , m ad e p ossib le b y o ur in vit a tio n. A t th e W hit e D og th ey c o oked a tr a d it io nal L it h uania n d in ner fo r o ur

custo m ers a nd to ld s to rie s o f w hat it w as lik e to r u n a p riv ate b usin ess in a c o m munis t c o untr y — th e c halle nges o f fin d in g e m plo yees w ho w ere n o t

afr a id to q uit th eir s e cure s ta te jo bs a nd th e tr o ub le s fin d in g in gre d ie nts in a b ure aucra tic c entr a liz e d fa rm in g s y ste m .

In 1 990, w e w ere p la nnin g a tr ip to V iln iu s w here w e w ould re cip ro cate b y c o okin g a n A meric an d in ner in L it h uania , b ut a s I w as o rg aniz in g a

dele gatio n o f c usto m ers a nd s ta ff to m ak e th e tr ip o ur p la ns w ere in te rru p te d b y a c hange s w eep in g th e U SSR L it h uania h ad a nno unced it s d esir e

to s e ced e fr o m th e S ovie t U nio n, a nd s u d denly th e L it h uania n a ir p orts w ere c lo se d d ow n a nd th e r o ad s in to th e c o untr y b lo ck ad ed . W e c o uld n o t

ta k e r e sp onsib ilit y fo r a la rg e g ro up , s o w e c alle d o ff th e to ur— but w ent o urs e lv es. S om eho w o ur W hit e D og d ele gatio n o f th re e— c hef K evin ,

pastr y c hef J a m es, a nd m yse lf — would g et to L it h uania , d ete rm in ed a s w e w ere to p re se nt a n A meric an d in ner in th e S ovie t U nio n a s p la nned .

T ho ugh th e L it h uania n a ir p orts r e m ain ed c lo se d , a s s o on a s th e r o ad b lo ck ad es w ere lif te d , w e m ad e o ur m ove. A fte r fly in g to F in la nd a nd th en to

L atv ia , w e w ere g re ete d a t th e R ig a a ir p ort b y o ur s is te r re sta ura nt fr ie nd s a nd p ile d in to a v an a lo ng w it h a tr a nsla to r a nd a g o od s u p ply o f

L it h uania n s p ark lin g w in e. D urin g th e d riv e a cro ss th e b ord er, w e le arn ed o f th e e xcit in g p ro sp ects fo r a fr e e L it h uania a nd a ls o o f th e c o ncern fo r

w hat th e S ovie ts m ig ht d o n ext.

T he n ext m orn in g w e w ere s u rp ris e d to fin d a p ho to o f o ur a rriv al o n th e fr o nt p age o f th e V iln iu s n ew sp ap er. O ur A meric an d in ner in L it h uania

w as a n im porta nt o ccasio n a nd w ould b e b ro ad cast o n te le vis io n. K evin a nd J a m es c re ate d a m enu th at re fle cte d th e c ult u ra l d iv ers it y o f th e

U nit e d S ta te s— fr o m ta co s to s p rin g r o lls to fr ie d c hic k en a nd g re ens, a nd o f c o urs e a p ple p ie fo r d esse rt— and d esc rib ed th e c ult u ra l s ig nif ic ance

of e ach c o urs e to th e g uests a nd te le vis io n a ud ie nce.

O ur h o sts w ere d is a p poin te d w hen th e g o vern o r o f L it h uania , w ho h ad p la nned to a tte nd th e d in ner, w as c alle d in ste ad to a m eetin g w it h P re sid ent

G orb achev in M osc o w . B ut th is le d to a m ore e xcit in g e venin g th an a ny o f u s h ad a ntic ip ate d . T ow ard th e e nd o f th e d in ner, th e c am era m an w ho

had b een in M osc o w to film th e m eetin g b urs t in to th e ro om , b rin gin g th e n ew s: H e h ad h eard G orb achev p ro m is e th at h e w ould n o t p re vent

L it h uania fr o m s e ced in g fr o m th e S ovie t U nio n. T he r o ad to in d ep end ence w as c le ar! “ T o a fr e e L it h uania !” th e to asts b egan, a nd th e c ham pagne

flo w ed . W e w ere h ap pily s u rp ris e d w hen s u d denly w e n o lo nger h ad a S ovie t s is te r r e sta ura nt— we h ad a L it h uania n o ne.

T he n ext d ay o ur s is te r r e sta ura nt h o sts w ere e ager to s h o w u s w hat th ey h ad le arn ed fr o m th eir tr ip to th e W hit e D og w it h a d in ner th ey c o oked

fo r u s in o ur h o no r. U nd er th e h ig hly c o nfo rm is t S ovie t s y ste m , c re ativ it y w as n o t e nco ura ged . A c hef w as e xp ecte d to p re p are a d is h ju st a s it h ad

been d one b y th e c hefs fo r g enera tio ns b efo re . T he r e al c halle nge w as in fin d in g th e in gre d ie nts to r e p lic ate a c la ssic d is h in a c o untr y w it h m any

sh o rta ges. W hile w ork in g w it h K evin in P hila d elp hia , th e S tik la i s ta ff le arn ed th at o ur a p pro ach to c o okin g w as ju st th e o pposit e . R ath er th an

sta rtin g w it h a s ta nd ard r e cip e, K evin lo oked fir s t a t w hat fr e sh in gre d ie nts w ere a vaila b le fr o m th e fa rm s th at d ay a nd c re ate d a d is h a ro und th em .

O ur c ulin ary e xchange b ro ught th e L it h uania ns a n ew w ay o f th in k in g th at d ep end ed a s m uch o n in no vatio n a s o n tr a d it io nal c ulin ary s k ills .

S it tin g d ow n w it h o ur L it h uania n fr ie nd s fo r a m eal a t S tik la i, w e w ere s e rv ed a s a la d th at s e em ed u nre m ark ab le a t fir s t g la nce, u ntil th e tr a nsla to r

exp la in ed th at in th e S ovie t U nio n, a ll s a la d s w ere s h re d ded lik e c o le sla w , w hile th is o ne fe atu re d w ho le le aves— a r e vo lu tio nary c o ncep t h ere a nd

one th ey h ad le arn ed w hen v is it in g th e W hit e D og.

N ext o ur h o sts p ro ud ly s e rv ed a n ew e ntr é e th ey h ad ju st c re ate d b ase d o n s e aso nal in gre d ie nts . T he n am e o f th e d is h — “ C hic k en J u d y.” W hat

co uld b e a h ig her h o no r? C uis in e p er- e str o ik a h ad a rriv ed . The e arly y ears : J u d y w it h h er fir s t b eagle , P ep py, in I n go m ar.

Wit h A ugie in C hefo rn ak , A la sk a, a s a V IS TA v o lu nte er.

Esk im o w om en c atc h p riz e s to sse d in to th e a ir a t a s e al p arty , a r it u al th at e p it o m iz e d th e E sk im o c ult u re o f s h arin g th at in flu enced J u d y's v ie w s o n

co m munit y a nd s o cia l e nte rp ris e .

A h and pain te d s ig n a nd s h elv es m ad e fr o m p ack in g c ra te s a d orn th e o rig in al F ee P eo ple 's S to re , o pened b y J u d y a nd D ic k H ayne in 1 970 in

Phila d elp hia .

Ju d y, E llio t C ook, a nd P asq uale I o cca s a m ple w in e a t L a T erra sse .

Ju d y O pened T he W hit e D og C afé in 1 983, in a r o w h o use s h e h elp ed s a ve fr o m d em olit io n.

Yvo nne L ig hty , th e r e sta ura nt's fir s t c hef.

Gertr u d e R ed heffe r, th e ja zz p ia nis t th at p la yed a t L a T erra sse .

The W hit e D og b ro ught it s c o m munit y to geth er to c ele b ra te th e fo urth o f J u ly .

Ju d y, N eil S chlo sse r, a nd th eir c hild re n G ra ce ( fr o nt) a nd L aw re nce a t a N ew Y ear's D ay p aja m a b ru nch.

Custo m ers d re sse d a s w hit e p oodle s a nd F re nch r e vo lu tio narie s a t B astille D ay fe stiv it ie s.

The W hit e D og w as o ne o f th e fir s t r e sta ura nts to s o urc e it s fo od fr o m lo cal, s u sta in ab le fa rm ers . J u d y w it h p ig fa rm er P aul W illis .

Ju d y w it h fr u it a nd v eggie g ro w er G le nn B re nd le .

Goat fa rm er D ougie N ew bold .

Som e o f th e T he W hit e D og's m ente es, w ho r e ceiv ed jo b tr a in in g a nd e xp osu re to fo od is su es v ia th e W hit e D og.

Zap atis ta s in C hia p as a p pro ve th e e ntr y o f th e fa ir - tr a d e c o ffe e d ele gatio n.

Ju d y in fr o nt o f th e M ut V it z c o ffe e c o opera tiv e a lo ng w it h fe llo w tr a vele rs B ill H arris a nd H al T aussig a nd lo cal g ro w ers .

In d ig eno us w om en fr o m C hia p as's la rg ely n o nvio le nt r e b ellio n a gain st th e M exic an g o vern m ent.

Ju d y a nd c hef K evin K la use w it h h ead b usb oy o n tr ip to v is it W hit e D og's s is te r r e sta ura nt in V ie tn am .

Activ is m w as k ey to th e W hit e D og m is sio n. J u d y w it h p ro te ste rs s h e o rg aniz e d to s p eak o ut o n th e n eed to la b el fo od w it h G M Os.

One o f th e W ic k y W ack y W oods g ath erin gs th at b ro ught to geth er lik e-m in d ed b usin ess p eo ple a nd h elp ed la unch s o m e k ey g ro up s in th e lo cal

liv in g e co no m y m ovem ent, in clu d in g B A LLE, w hic h s h e c o fo und ed in 2 001.

W hat b egan a s a m uffin c o unte r g re w in to a 2 50-se at r e sta ura nt th ro ugh w hic h J u d y h elp ed b uild th e